• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.97-108
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• 2005

Jacqueline Kennedy was one of first lady in America and made influence on the fashion of the woman at that time. She made the first American fashion style. Jacqueline became a prominent model and style-setter in fashion world. She created peculiar fashion style which is called 'Jacky style' and her fashion power of influence appears in the present time. At that time, Haute Couture of France had led the world fashion, however since Jacqueline style came into fashion, American beauty and elegance was introduced to other countries. This study reviews the representative fashion item of Jacqueline Kennedy who was one of the fashion leader in the world. The result to appear in her style is follows. First, Jacqueline could express the young fashion that young people wanted a progressive and new thing because she was much younger than their predecessors. Second, she made her image bright and young, so she became a representative person who expressed 'changing America women'. She created a new appearance which is very simple in design, practical in function and elegant and it is turned into the typical style of American high fashion. Finally, through Jacqueline's fashion, not only she made the image of America upper classes that is very elegant and grace without dependence on the fashion of France, but also she is leading one of parts at a fashion style the present time. Since then, the fashion of America could become the center of a world fashion by Jacqueline. Important thing is that she wore suitable cloths as a first lady who was a outstanding fashion leader.

• 복식
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• 제67권2호
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• pp.68-87
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• 2017

The New Look, which Christian Dior presented in 1947, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, as well as designers for the House of Dior, and has a great influence on them. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look and the New Look that Christian Dior House designers reinterpreted. The subject and the scope of this study were limited to Christian Dior and the New Look designed by Gianfranco $Ferr\acute{e}$, John Galliano, and Raf Simons who are regarded as worthy successors. The research method was a literature review on previous studies on Christian Dior and related literatures to examine the history of the House of Dior and the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look presented by Christian Dior. Then, an empirical study was conducted through the analysis of collection photographs from 1989 to 2016 that were gathered from the Mode et Mode and Hi Fashion, and websites (British Vogue, Firstview). The results of the study were as follows. First, the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 used femininity to express an elegant and beautiful woman, structural property to render the contours of a woman's body, and innovation that changed the formal and gloomy social atmosphere in the post-war years. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look by Christian Dior were compared with those of the New Look made by designers for the House of Dior. The elegant femininity of Dior can be seen as gorgeous femininity, and sensual femininity, minimalistic femininity, structurality is represented by the spatial structurality of Dior and $Ferr\acute{e}$, the organic structure of Galliano, and the orthodox structure of Simons. Moreover, Dior's retro innovativeness appeared to be $Ferr\acute{e}^{\prime}s$ androgyny innovation, Galliano's deconstructive innovation, and Simons' romantic futuristic innovation.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.31-44
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• 2016

Geum'yeok-dang house in Andong was originally constructed in 1558. The original floor plan of the upper base featured a 90-degree tilted '日' shape, and had inner court(內庭) on each side of 'Jungdang(中堂, center hall)' building that was placed on the south-north axis. When designing the building, the Neo-Confucian client of Geum'yeok-dang applied his understanding of how Ga'rye("家禮") defined the structure of ritual space. Consequently, 'Daecheong(大廳)', the place where guests were greeted and ancestral rites and coming of age ceremonies for male were held, was built in a protruding fashion. 'Jungdang'[otherwise known as 'Jeongchim(正寢)'], where coming of age ceremonies for females were held, the master of the house faced death, and memorials for close ancestors were held, was placed at the center of the residence on the south-north axis. The Geum'yeok-dang today was greatly renovated in the early and mid 18th century, due to the spread of 'Ondol' heating system. As the Ondol heating system became popular, the pre-existing drawbacks and the inconvenience of the house stood out clearly. As a result, the house was renovated into today's structure consisting of '口' shape 'Anchae' and 'Daecheongchae' in separate building.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.519-530
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• 2007

This study is an exploratory research on the brand architecture of Korean apparel enterprises and the differentiation strategy among in-house competing brands. For data analysis, secondary data was used. 20 apparel enterprises were used as the subjects. The results are as following. First, as a result of brand architecture composition, apparel enterprises used the strategy that initially paved the way launching several brands in a specific item category and after that diversified to other categories. Most enterprises used the multi-brand strategy operating plural brands in a same zoning. The terms for launching succeeding brands were about $1{\sim}5$ years. Second, as a result of analysing the cases which several brands competes within a same zoning, all the posterior brands had some differences from the prior ones. The most frequent differentiation factor was price. Concept, target age, and distribution channel followed. The order of the factors was somewhat different among the item categories. The differentiation strategy among in-house competing brands meant that the enterprises manage plural brands in a same zoning for the growth of whole market share instead of the direct competition among in-house brands. The results of this study can suggest a growth direction to the enterprises planning to launch new brands.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권9호
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• pp.1374-1385
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• 2009

This study focuses on three points. First, how designers develop clothing and cosmetic culture (which reflect time and culture) into other fashion products in order to verify that attire and makeup can be the objects of aesthetics in addition to functionality. Second, why the fashion design of Christian Dior has been continuously popular for women of all ages and countries in the development of fashion, attire, and makeup. Third, this study analyzes how the aesthetical characteristics of the fashion of Christian Dior are reflected in clothing and cosmetic culture in order to clarify the brand outlook on attire and makeup as a source of France's luxury fashion industry. The philosophical characteristics of Dior's fashion were studied based on existing literature. First, her childhood background (that became the motif of Dior's design) and the philosophical ideology of fashion design, perfume, and beauty were the focus of this study. Second, this study examined how consciousness on beauty expressed in hairstyle, perfume, and cosmetics is expressed in connection with clothing. Third, the background with which Dior's fashion and perfume business became successful is examined in addition the necessity of the image strategy for success in the cosmetics market was studied. Domestic and international books on clothing and cosmetics, preceding studies, the internet, and related magazines are utilized to consider the cosmetics and beauty fashion of Dior. The results of this study show how Korean fashion and cosmetic culture can further globalize. This study encompasses the period of 1905 when Christian Dior was born until 1957 when he died of a heart attack; it also deals with well-known designers of the Christian Dior House from Yves Saint Laurent of 1957 to John Galliano of the present.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권2호
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• pp.51-58
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to analyze how the appreciation or recognition of quick response systems, with the utilization of technology, can improve operations for businesses in the DongDaeMoon fashion market. A survey was conducted from April 25 to May 10 in 2007, among owners and designers of wholesale shops in the DongDaeMoon fashion market. Data was collected from 270 subjects, and general descriptive and comparative statistical analysis was applied to acquire various parameters. Firstly, the product types within the DongDaeMoon fashion market were small and medium quantity batch production systems. The majority of businesses adopted the production strategy of outsourcing through subcontracted factories. To re-order, a fashion merchandising required 2 to 3 days. Secondly, the design sources of fashion merchandises were national fashion brands, popular items within the same industries, and also fashion magazines. New products was made within 4 days after a sample item was received. Business acquaintances were fashion retail shops of DongDaeMoon, and internet or home shopping companies. Thirdly, the recognition of importance and effects of quick response systems was difference between high and low group of the utilization of technology in the DongDaeMoon fashion market.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.71-80
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• 2001

Since the beginning of the 90's, Fashion shows appear to be a type of performance form of art combining with other areas to visually entertain the viewers. This can be explained by the modern tendency to escape from society which requires formality and complicated lifestyles. Fashion shows take place in a scene Influenced by the idea of post-modernism which redefines the definition of space. A church, old factory, unoccupied ground, subway stations, or even place like a waste disposal are used as a setting. The stage set is no longer the T shape run way and the procinium arch has disappeared. The gap between audience and stage has diminished and theatrical element is added to the fashion performance by using viewers living and working environments as setting of the show. The human relation with machine based on the cutting edge technology such as the stage automation, robots and mist making sprinkler system introduces new elements with spontaneity and detailed planning in the stage performance. Music also plays an Important role in attracting viewers. The sound track covers house music to techno music. Instead of music being abstract, folks orchestral music, choirs, piano. even live concert performed by pop artist provide the liveliness of the fashion show. And the catwalk itself is a performance. Model needs to be well trained as the capable talent who can handle sensitive gestures, facial expressions, dancing and choreography. The improvisatorial interaction between audience and model lead to audience participation. Models now range from pop star, ordinary people, handicapped people, to elderly and so on. John Galliano introduced the theatrical factors for the fashion show and Alexander Mcqueen approached the fashion show as the visual art of communication. Hussein Chalayan utilized high technology skewing futurism as if in a magic show. Today the Fashion show tends to be a total performance which includes audience participation, impromptu, and that break the limitation that fashion shows previously had. This will lead the fashion industry in opening new horizon of its own.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.277-287
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• 2019

This study analyzes the online issues of design innovation by a fashion creative director. The study selected fashion house Gucci as the main subject and analyzed social media posts. As for study methods, a social matrix program Textom 2.0 collected 13,014 nouns and adjectives using 'Gucci Collection' as a search keyword from Naver Blogs from March to August 2014 and from March to August 2016. Design related issues were derived through semantic network analysis using Ucinet6 and the NetDraw program. The results of the keyword frequency analysis showed that social media user interest for the Gucci collection increased based on the rapid increase in the number of posts from 1,064 to 2,126 after changing the fashion creative director. The results of visualization of semantic network analysis and content analysis also showed that the main issues related to the Gucci collection design changed after the replacement of the fashion creative director. The study found that issues formed around the product information worn by celebrities for promotion purposes during the 2014 period; however, during the 2016 period, issues were formed around 'vintage' and 'retro' runway concepts with design styles related to Alessandro Michele, the new creative director.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.117-130
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• 2015

As environmental issues have become a worldwide concern after the 20th century, the idea and the term of 'green growth development' has become familiar to the public. After 2008, the green growth development dramatically became an important ideology in Korea; thus industries, studies and product investments in relation are in active progress. Following the trend, the latter major unit of the middle school textbook "Technology & Home Economics" was named the revision of elementary, middle and high school textbooks in 2009. The learning goal of 'green' or 'eco-friendly' of the revised edition of the textbook will guide the middle school students to have better understanding of the issues of clothing habits and the environment. Furthermore, students will be able to apply the 'green' concepts in their real life and put eco-friendly clothing habits into action. Thus, the practice of effective learning will depend on the quality of the current issue of the textbook. Therefore this study analyzes the eco-friendly contents of the semi-unit from 7 different textbooks and presents an example of textbook production to the preliminary teacher of home economics.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.17-32
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• 1981

1.The Purpose of this Study is a) to find out a various interests in clothing field according to women's occupations b) to find women's interest in clothing affected by age, education and income. 2. Method of Research a) Clothing interest survey was done with women in Seoul including teachers, office girls, girls working in bank, doctors, nurses, artist, technicians, merchants. and house wives. b) By using "Clothing Interest Scale Test" made by In-Ja Lee. c) S.A.S.(Statiztical Analysis System) Package in KIST was utilized. An average was taken and a distribution of frequency clarified by interests in clothing field and clothing trends in every interest realm were researched. 3. Conclusion a) Artists are much interested especially in design and fashion, clothing shopping and a role of clothing psychology. b) Technicians are interested in Clothing construction and clothing management. c) Although girls working in company and bank show less interest than artists in a role of clothing psychology. d) The fact that Merchants care nothing for clothing shopping was found. e) Teachers, doctors, nurses, house wives have less interest in Clothing than the other workers. The younger women becomes much interested in clothing design and fashion, clothing shopping, and earns higher income and higher educated, women becomes much interested in psychological aspect of clothing.