• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2022

In the fashion industry, the demand for new perspectives to express creativity has always been high. Expression of new perspectives allows creative ideas to emerge, thereby breaking away from habitual and familiar perceptions. The purpose of this study is to identify and analyze how the theory of defamiliarization is being applied in fashion design by the brand Münn, which claims defamiliarization as a design philosophy. The study examined the concepts and the characteristics of Viktor Shklovsky by literature review and derived the main characteristics of the defamiliarization theory for fashion design analysis based on studies that used defamiliarization in other fields. Furthermore, after analyzing Münn's collection, we found how the main characteristics of defamiliarization derived from reviews were expressed in Münn's designs. The defamiliarization in Münn's collection was first, 'breakaway from stereotype' appeared through re-recognition of perception and unexpected use of heterogeneous materials. Second, 'distortion and analogy through image' was revealed through the East and West clothing-making methods, which broke away from the stereotype of image and the juxtaposition and cultural reconstruction of details. Third, 'transition of viewpoint' was shown as an avant-garde sense through the conversion of usage purpose of design, material, or items in which subjects and objects were converted with conceptual design and material or silhouette.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.112-126
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate visual elements of steampunk fashion and provide base line data for innovative fashion design ideas and products. We investigated design characteristics of steampunk fashion style shown in 3 movies and 3 animations. Based on the investigation, the research drew intrinsic value of steampunk fashion from three brands 'Vivienne Westwood', 'Dolce & Gabbana' and 'Alexander McQueen'. As the research analyzed movies and animations revealing steampunk style, various characteristics were found and assorted into similar categories. Subcategories of steampunk fashion are pluralism, rebellion and heterogeneity. The followings are result of analyzing three designer collection listed above. First, steampunk fashion made by designers used various color and materials to express multi-pluralistic(multiplicity) characteristic. Second, fashion style in collections revealed artistic and experimental design. This adventurous and innovative characteristic is categorized as rebellion feature. Third, steampunk fashion style used mix-match of unexpected materials or unbalanced silhouette to create a complete fashion style by combining styles in duplicity which could've lack harmony. Intrinsic value of steampunk is defined as graffiti of 19th century's science technology and utopia spirit. Longing for past and fantasy was expressed into fashion. Steampunk fashion wants to escape reality and tries to recreate history of the past faded away with technological development. It defines steampunk as freedom, deviation and fantastical utopia in positive point of view. Furthermore, aesthetic implication of steampunk style found in this research can make a boundary of steampunk style clear and become reference for future researches regarding steampunk fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.83-96
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the perception of retro fashion and new-tro fashion using big data. TEXTOM allowed the collection of big data on the words 'retro fashion' and 'new-tro fashion', which was refined afterwards. As for the data collection period, Jan. 1, 2019 to Nov. 30, 2022 was set. A top 50 list of words were extracted from this data based on appearance frequency. The extracted words were processed through Network centrality analysis and CONCOR analysis using Ucinet 6. The results are as follows. 1) In retro fashion, the appearance frequency of 'style' was the highest, followed by 'sensibility', 'color', 'trend', 'fashion', and 'brand'. These words came up with high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis discovered that 'color', 'style', 'trend', 'sensibility', and 'design' had high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed a total of four significant groups; trends, styles, looks, and photos. 2) In new-tro fashion, the appearance frequency of 'retro' was the highest, followed by 'trend', 'generation', 'style', 'brand', and 'fashion'. These words also came up with high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis found that 'retro', 'trend', 'generation', and 'brand' had high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed a total of four significant groups; style, brand, clothing, and trend. 3) New-tro fashion is included in retro fashion in that it reproduces the styles of the past. However, it is taken completely differently from generation to generation. Unlike the older generations, millennials actively accept newly created clothes and brands based on the past styles. They perceive it as a fashion that reveals their own unique tastes and tastes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.723-730
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to speculate on the history and the meaning of so-called "princess fashion" based on the feminist's viewpoint. While many designers in Korean fashion world have fostered the trend of princess fashion, relatively little insight has been developed regarding its socio-cultural meanings. For this problem, the researcher traced the historical background and the development of the princess fashion in both the western and the Korean fashion world. As a case of the princess fashion study, Andre Kim(a renowned Korean designer)'s collection was selected and analyzed since he has often been a central figure for the princess fashion trends in Korea. Here the operational definition of the princess fashion is the lavish dresses designed based on the western court dress styles. As a result, the researcher found that the princess fashion was originated from the eighteenth century in France. In the nineteenth century, male designers took over the role to make extravagant dresses such as empire and crinoline dresses which became the prototypes for the princess fashion. In Korea, the western court dress style was introduced at the end of the nineteenth century and it became a uniform of prostitutes during the Korean War. By analyzing Andre Kim's collection, it is found that his romantic dresses imitated the nineteenth century court dresses. Therefore, from the feminist's viewpoint, his princess fashion is a mere reproduction of anachronistic styles reflecting inferior and passive images of women. The researcher draws a conclusion that today's fashion should transcend the princess fashion that signifies the female's submissive-masochistic roles operated by the male's sexual expectation.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.108-123
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• 2024

This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre's collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre's 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre's sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre's signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.233-244
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• 1998

This research wants to find the possibility for new paradigm of modern Korean dress by accepting and harmonizing the tradition and the modernization of Korean design when Korean designers enter into Paris collection and express identity of Korean fashion, and investigates the characteristics of Korean design with concentrating on the works of Young-hee Lee, Shin-woo Lee, Tae-ok Jin who have exhibited their works at Paris Collection. For one of the above characteristics Young-hee Lee, a designer of Korean clothes, emphasized to build up image of Korean fashion as a form of Korea without any modification, and expressed universal western-style silhouette as Korean image by using traditional technique including dyeing and silk made by herself, quil-t and decorative saddle stitching. In the as-pect that a chain of work has made not by westernization of Korean clothes but by re-creation of Korean clothes, it suggested a new way of modern Korean fashion with harmonizing tradition with modernizations as of present based on our own dress tradition and have got good reputation from the press and the field in Paris as well. Therefore the tradition and the modernization of Korean design is not confronted or compromised in form, color, material, motif and decoration but has to be harmonized and reconciled independently in order that visual characteristics of dress can be made as one of Korean image.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.221-230
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• 2007

This research was focused on the changes of layered techniques in Hussein Chalayan's collections. For this purpose, the layered techniques in 134 works from Chalayan's collections, 97S/S to 06S/S, which were obtained from fashion magazines and fashion internet site, were analyzed and classified into 15 groups. Layered techniques in his works apparently expressed his philosophy about deconstruction. Multilayered feeling was given through using various techniques such as one layer clothing which was showed like multi-layered clothing. Others were multi-layer clothing which felt like one layer, breaking the stereotyped line of clothing into atypical construction and using various materials or constructive lines which made the optical feeling like one layer or multi-layer clothing, and so on. These layered techniques in Chalayan's collections were differentiated into several categories, such as techniques which were revealed in every collections, techniques which were differentiated from one another collections, techniques which were continuously showed through three collections for connection with each collection, techniques which were used only for Spring/Summer season, and techniques which were uniquely showed in early collection or recent collections.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.121-133
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• 2017

This study investigates the design relation between shoulder line and sleeve line for designing bulky silhouettes as well as examines the trend sensitivity and design difference of each city through a comparison of the four cities collection (Paris, Milan, London, and New York). The results are as follows. In the four major fashion capitals, the rates of all-season coats were higher in 2014/15 F/W than those in the 2013/14 F/W season. At the 2014/15 F/W season, the proportion of the bulky silhouette coat, (including the fur and cape coat) increased and confirmed the bulky silhouette fashion trend. Second, an examining of the proportion of bulky silhouette coats manufactured by leading brands in major cities, indicated that London brands readily followed the trend of bulky silhouette coats when compared to other cities. This trend was also accepted by most brands in New York. Most brands in London and New York are highly compliant with the latest fashion trends. Third, the drop shoulder design was mostly presented in the shoulder pit of the bulky coat. In case of the sleeve, the shape of the jar was kept wide at the elbow line and made narrower toward the beak in most bulky silhouette coats. The importance of shoulder and sleeve design is clearly highlighted in the bulky silhouette coat. Fourth, detail design trends were different according to type of sleeve and shoulder fit. The results show the relationship between shoulder and sleeve design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.718-730
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• 2015

This study investigated the correlation between the level of consistency in fashion show models' appearance and design concept through a statistical and qualitative analysis of the S/S Paris Collection 2014. The following conclusions have been drawn in this study. First, the percentage of models of color was very low in regards to the physical appearance of models; in addition, there was a higher percentage of Caucasian models for collections with a high level of consistency in models' physical appearance. Collections with a high percentage of models of color indicate more casual design concepts and the promotion of diversity in racial background is considered more effective for street fashion. Second, collections with a high level of consistency in models' physical appearance tend to control various elements that constitute a physical appearance through more detailed planning and stage direction. Third, there is a tendency to reinforce design concepts by creating a consistency in the overall physical appearance of models. This affirms that their physical appearance is determined by brand (i.e. designer) and is used to maximize a design concept delivery. The results of this study suggests that the physical appearance of models must be determined in line with the design concept versus detailed planning that must consider audience perspectives as well as adjust the show's length and the interval between each model appearing on the stage.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.71-85
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to study the beauty-coordination characteristics of Genderless fashion, which is emerging as a new trend by analyzing the trend in the latest collection and classify the resulting expression characteristics of make-up. Methods and scope of the study were based on collections published in the 2020 S/S season and 35 out of 84 designers with design elements were selected to analyze the garments most likely to be genderless. The characteristics of the expression of the genderless derived through this analysis were classified into compromise, androgyny, sensuality, exaggeration, enjoyment, and historicity. Compromise was the highest, and the lowest was for enjoyment of the classifications. The designer's work according to the characteristics of each expression shows that the pieces by Saint Laurent were the highest in compromise, sensuality, and historicity, and the pieces by Maison Margiela were the highest in androgyny while Balenciaga was the highest in exaggeration and enjoyment. Compromise represented a mixture of discord, such as incongruous bonding and coloring of heterogeneous materials, and androgyny led to the use of silhouettes and colors, with sensuality utilizing see-through material and incision lines allowing for physical exposure. Exaggeration intentionally destroyed the existing concept by breaking the overall balance of the human body through the enlargement of certain parts of the body, while enjoyment showed unexpectedness by destroying the line and sides of the garment. Lastly, historicity was analyzed for its retro design that transcends time and space with regional cultural and period characteristics.