• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.527-539
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• 2019

This study examined the Chinese style in the Vivienne Tam collection as well as explored diversity and modern interpretation of a Chinese style used in modern fashion. The study also investigated the concept and history of the Chinese style as well as analyzed the Chinese style in the collection based on a consideration of a Chinese element that is the basic structure with an understanding of Vivienne Tam and general collection themes. As a result of research, the Chinese style appeared in the Vivienne Tam collection was comprehensive with 43 Chinese elements including Animals, Flower & Grass among the Nature elements, Mythology Religion among the Figure elements, Historical Artifacts, Clothing, Oral Literature, Entertainment, Fine Arts. Technique, Folk holiday among Culture elements and Philosophy among Spirit elements, which accounted for 57.6% of the collection. The formative characteristics that included Chinese elements were extended, abstracted, distorted or transformed; in addition, some abstract elements were embodied into animals, images and certain particular forms to present a theme. In addition to two-dimensional method to print Chinese elements on fabric, they were also expressed as a three-dimensional texture or a silhouette, achieving clear and bold harmony. The aesthetic characteristic is a mixture of Eastern and Western way of thinking. Her costume has a political and historical meaning beyond the imitation of elements that represent the development of a pleasant and interesting design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.33-49
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti appearing in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. A theoretical examination of graffiti art and Moschino's creative designer Jeremy Scott was conducted using previous studies and publications. Accordingly, keywords about the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti and Moschino were identified, as follows: expressive elements of 'message (slogan)', 'symbolized letters or forms', 'logo and brand symbol', 'graffiti (scribbles)', 'child-like elements', 'daily element's and expressive techniques of 'using primary colors (color contrast)', 'deformation', 'distortion', 'exaggeration', 'illusion (trompe l'oeil)', 'collage (repetition)', 'simplification (flattening)', and 'borrowing heterogeneous objects'. These keywords were then used to analyze Moschino's collection, comprising seven years of Moschino's collection photographs officially recorded in the fashion magazine Vogue, ranging from the 2014 F/W to 2020 F/W collections. A total of 761 photos were initially collected, from which 561 were selected by the researcher. Expressive characteristics of graffiti in Moschino's collection were analyzed, and identified in the following categories: 'child-like playfulness', 'commercial satire', 'using daily elements', and 'borrowing non-representative techniques'. Accordingly, it was confirmed that expressive characteristics of graffiti were found in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. This study anticipates the possibility of various interpretations from which fashion that communicates closely with contemporary art can be understood.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1049-1062
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to find out the image according to formative properties of hat and garment in the fashion collection. For the study, the 96 stimuli found frequently in fashion collection from the S/S season of 1998 to the F/W season of 2004 were selected. Sets of stimulus and response scales (7 point semantic) were used as experimental materials. The stimuli were 96 pictures with the types of hat(4), the lengths of hair(3), the types of garment(3), the relations between the color of garment and hat(4), and the materials(4) and patterns of garment(2). The subjects were 415 women college students majoring fashion design related fields and living in Seoul and Gyeongsangnam-do. As statistical methods for data analysis, Factor Analysis, ANOVA test, and LSD test were used. The items of the adjectives were classified into 5 image dimensions; attractiveness, gracefulness, concentration, cuteness, and hardness and softness. Among these factors, each dimensional image was affected by formative properties of hat and garment. The image of a hat-wearer was perceived differently according to the hair style and the formative properties of hat and garment even if the type of hat was same.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.158-175
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information to Korean fashion designers who wish to advance to the overseas collection. This is done through analyzing the design characteristics of Japanese young fashion designers, Tsumori Chisato, Commuun, and Limi Feu, who have successfully launched their designs into the Paris collection and became global fashion brands. Collections of each brand were analyzed by the overall fashion style and design elements. For the overall fashion style, Tsumori Chisato used a romantic style using details with various ornaments, whereas Commuun shows minimal style with a simple silhouette. Limi Feu expressed avant-garde style with experimental patterns. Moreover, these brands expressed different style to other brands by applying Japanese traditional clothes, patterns, and Japanese techniques in modern view point. In terms of design elements, these three brands used the H-line silhouette. Tsumori Chisato used loose fit; Commuun, slim line; and Limi Feu, boxy silhouette. In the case of colors, materials, patterns and details, Tsumori Chisato showed mix & match with various colors, materials, patterns and details. Commuun used mono tone with black & white using only one or two materials. Limi Feu usually used the color black with cotton. According to the style of the brand and region of the collection, the main characteristics of the design and the application of Japanese traditional elements can be different.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.155-167
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• 2009

This study reviewed the basic principle of "Maximalism" fashion and analyzed the properties of fashion types with found the frequencies of various styles and design factors of "Maximalism" fashion in collection. The limits of this study is from 2001, s/s, maximalism was embossed in a modem fashion, to 2007, f/w, and collected the fashion collection pictures from www.samsungdesign.net and www.style.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most frequent style of "Maximalism" design showed in International fashion collection was "exaggerated style." Second, the design factors of "Maximalism" fashion were also examined. In case of silhouette, "hourglass silhouette" was the most frequent silhouette. In case of pattern, "solid" color was the most frequently used. In case of materials, the soft materials were the most frequently used. Third, the frequencies of design factors of maximalism by presentation types was compared and analyzed. In case of expansion, "bulk silhouette" was the most frequent silhouette to be appeared, and about multi-ethnic, futurelism, and elegance, "hourglass silhouette" was frequent appeared. In case of pattern, "solid" color was the most frequently used in all types. In case of materials, the hard materials were the most frequently used in expansion, multi-ethnic and futurelism. "Maximalism" fashion which is most splendid trend would grow up rapidly in the modem fashion market and influence on the other fashion trend in our every day life. Consequently, this research can be referred as practical information in fashion marketing and it will contribute to the future fashion research as well.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.277-287
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• 2019

This study analyzes the online issues of design innovation by a fashion creative director. The study selected fashion house Gucci as the main subject and analyzed social media posts. As for study methods, a social matrix program Textom 2.0 collected 13,014 nouns and adjectives using 'Gucci Collection' as a search keyword from Naver Blogs from March to August 2014 and from March to August 2016. Design related issues were derived through semantic network analysis using Ucinet6 and the NetDraw program. The results of the keyword frequency analysis showed that social media user interest for the Gucci collection increased based on the rapid increase in the number of posts from 1,064 to 2,126 after changing the fashion creative director. The results of visualization of semantic network analysis and content analysis also showed that the main issues related to the Gucci collection design changed after the replacement of the fashion creative director. The study found that issues formed around the product information worn by celebrities for promotion purposes during the 2014 period; however, during the 2016 period, issues were formed around 'vintage' and 'retro' runway concepts with design styles related to Alessandro Michele, the new creative director.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.144-158
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• 2010

The concept and the typical characteristics of ethnic fashion were studied. 267 fashion designs from pret-$\grave{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: The major types of ethnic fashion are Africa, American Indian, Japan, India, China, and Inca. Among these types, the first volume is Africa, the second is American Indian and others are Japan, India, China and Inca in order. Ethnic fashion changes in years showed reduction from 2001 to 2004, but much rise in 2005 showed more than 30% from 2001. Much more ethnic fashion designs were presented in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. Africa ethnic fashion designs were more popular in S/S seasons. India ethnic fashion designs were more popular in F/W seasons. In the comparison of the Milan and New York collection, ethnic fashion designs appeared more in Milan collections than in New York from 2001 to 2003. But ethnic fashion designs appeared more in New York collections than in Milan in the year of 2005.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.95-108
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the historical change of Paris Collection in relation to the social and cultural environment. Together with the various changes in society, creates fashion, the historical background of the Paris Collections is analyzed from the end of the 19th century until the present. The research method includes analysis entered on data from literature and magazines. From this study, the following conclusions can be reached. 1. Paris Collection is composed of various situations such as the economic aspect, the changing society, the change of the costumes, the change of consumer's consciousness, etc,. 2. The position and role of Paris Collection will be changed in the future. But, there is no alternative. Paris Collection is the best system which we need in our society. 3. Since the level of the planning of the apparel industry becoming raised rapidly, Paris collection tend to avoid the traditional aspect. 4. In order to make good product, good understanding of the historical background need. It must be considered to understand changes such as consumers lifestyles, social trend, etc.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.562-572
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• 2008

This study is to understand the current situation of the Seoul Collection and suggest market oriented strategies in order to establish a more effective fashion market. Three elements-time, form, and, place-were defined to analyse the dynamics of the collection and two factors-customer/competitor oriented information and information interaction among participants-were employed to evaluate the Seoul collection toward market orientation. The data were collected from the collection participants via an in-depth interview. The identified major market factors were: 1. Time-In order to create a desirable market, the opening time of the Seoul Collection needs to be rescheduled in accordance with the openings of other countries. Also the time must be suitable to the buyer's movement. 2. Product-Products which did not meet the needs of the market and their unrealistically high prices were two main factors that hindered sales. 3. Place-Although the place was a vital factor to the success of the collection, the facility was not fully a suitable location for buyers to place orders. Additionally, the analyzed data indicated the low market-oriented Seoul collection. Vital to elevating the Seoul Collection to meet the global standard, therefore, more practical research and merchandise planning should be arranged in advance.

• 복식
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• 제65권4호
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• pp.76-90
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• 2015

Based on a concept of Nietzschean nihilism, this study aimed at interpreting the nihilism in arts and its expressions, also analyzing the modern fashion collection from the same angle. The research was centered on arts after 1980, when post-modern formal destruction expanded in earnest and on the fashion collection after the 20th century, easily accessible to data. Particularly, it set 1994 nihilism collection by Alexander McQueen, a representative nihilist fashion designer as a starting point. Nietzsche mentioned that true arts may be achieved when Apollonian characteristics including a bodily sensory system and an idealization process and Dionysian characteristics including every human feeling are integrated. Besides, he emphasized the importance of an artist being represented as an image of ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$. The ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image, reflected in arts and artistic nihilism, represents themes of violence/death, realistic/unrealistic expressions, human body/inhuman aversion materials and the transmutation of a form. Fashion collection expressions, owing to the special characteristic of the show form unlike other arts, were segmented as a realistic ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image using a model in a theme, expression, material and form. The theme of violence/death was divided into the death of human and a society. Human life/death was expressed as destruction of human weakness and self-identity, sexual objectification and violence, and social death as destruction and conflict of a class, nation, culture and nature. As for the expression, it was divided into the realistic expression of the primitive/natural and directing of an unrealistic atmosphere using a show.