• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.1-14
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• 2011

This study analyzed the "research trends and the design processes" of the traditional patterns by examining the previous researches on the application of the traditional patterns. For this purpose, 96 studies which include master's and doctoral theses and research papers published in 8 Korean academic journals on Clothing from 2000 to 2010 were chosen. The findings of this study are as follows: First, when the previous researches on the application of the traditional patterns were classified according to their subject matter, they were classified into: research on clothing design, research on textile design, research on the design of cultural commodities, and research on mixed design. Second, the researches that were classified according to their subject matter were re-classified according to their year of publication. It was shown that the most active research was on the clothing design. The research on textile design, when compared with clothing design, alternated an increase and an decrease in every other year. Also, research on the design of cultural commodities were fewer than the research on clothing design or textile design although it is on the increase from 2008. Third, when classified according to the types of design, it was found that the designs based on a flora were most common. Fourth, in most cases, in the process of the designs, the designswere dispensed with the original form or were simplified. The choice of the tone of color, in most cases, were based on the concept selected by the designer. The most common method for the expression of the designs was based on the printing. Also, when it came to the presentation of the designs, the original work greatly outnumbered an imaginary work. Based on this study, it is hoped that there will be more active research on the application of the traditional designs which, in turn, can popularize the aesthetic beauty of Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.985-996
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolism of traditional Korean patterns which reflect an emotional cultural background of Korean people, to apply modernized and developed patterns to Textile Design for fashion cultural products, and to explore productive direction of developing designs of fashion cultural products. The process of developing Textile Design of fashion cultural products which applied symbolism of traditional Korean patterns was conducted as follows. Firstly, based on '05 S/S-'07 S/S fashion trends, a design concept wat decided(man-urban ethnic style, woman-romantic ethnic style). Secondly, motive was abstracted from selected traditional patterns to develop into modem patterns. Thirdly, items were selected according to symbolic meaning of traditional Korean patterns. Man's items included shirts, necktie, and handkerchief which were highly preferred by Korean and foreign visitors. Finally, developed textile designs were diagrammed by item using textile CAD and an illustrator 10 and presented as images. The following results were obtained. First, textile designs for fashion cultural products, in which apply traditional patterns may reflect the understanding of traditional aesthetic beauty and philosophical approach by applying symbolic significance inherent in patterns as well as the aesthetics of the patterns. Second, traditional patterns have been recognized as old fashioned to consumers because they have been often used for traditional handicrafts or folk products. If their unique shapes are changed or simplified, emphasizing images, and trend styles and colors are used, they will be recreated as a modem design. Third, textile designs using traditional patterns may provide various images and visual effects according to techniques and production methods. Then, the method will be applied to many items. Finally, since traditional patterns in fashion cultural products can be used as our unique design elements, they can be utilized as the source of design inspiration for the development of value-added products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.21
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• pp.207-218
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• 1993

The desire of our contempories who wish to recover humanities fading away and get back recover humanities fading away and get back to the nature is emerging as a main theme of the fashion today the decade of facing 21st century. The prevalence of naturalness-ecology ru-ral peasant look-and ethnic look shows the tendency mentioned above. Kenzo Takada' works which exhibit this naturalness and ethnic look were picked and investigated. The objective of this research is to study the beauty of form and internal and investi-gate in what form the naturaless and Ethnic look in Kenzo's work. The result were as followings : <1> Draped form are mainly used as form and they are made neglecting the body line by straight-cut and provide the wearer ease and freedom of movements <2> As for the color fantastic original colors (red, blue, etc) and natural colors are used. And Strong color contrast is seen. In ethnic look original colors(red, blue, etc.) natural colors and ethnic colors are used. <3> As for the fabric Cotton neat skilk and wool etc are used mainly and use of such natural fibers represents the return to the natural well. <4> As for ornament natural things-straw hat flower feather pebble, shell-are used and exhibit natural feelings strongly. For the ethnic look ornaments representing each country's ethnic atmos-phere by hat scarf and neckcloth made of natural fibers. <5> As for naturalness Flower deer butter-fly leopard and plant etc, are used as motif. As for ethnic look flower geometric motif are used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.215-233
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• 1999

The Miaos have their own peculiar and luxurious transtional culture a they have experienced repeated fusion into and resistance againt the Han Race or the chinese in their long and old history. And the traditional culture of the Miaos is abundant and diverse in several respects. Because it has taken root in foundation of their simple and native environment. it is embracing abundant and diverse contents. They largely used as the theme of patterns factual materials such as natural objects easily accessible in the natural environment. those related to marratives reflective of ethnicity, animals and plants symbolic of auspicious omen, peace, happiness and good harrest with prosperity and abundance. And they not only crossornamented natural patterns and geometrical patterns by combining them but also geometric patterns alone. It can be seen that Miaos represented patterns with exaggerated formation, overlapping and modification and the comprehensive, fomation of natural forms, abstract formation etc. Seeing the ethnic costume of Miaos investigated in these several respects by the standard of contemporary beauty it is thought that it has the infinite possibility of being used in contemporary fashion design on account of the characteristic of almost perfect costume.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.75-88
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of appearance instrumentality on body satisfaction and appearance management behaviors by adolescent' sex. The subjects were 750 adolescents in Daejeon and Chungnam province. The research method was a survey and the measuring instruments consisted of appearance instrumentality, body satisfaction, appearance management behaviors, and subjects' demographics attributions. The data were analyzed by Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ${\chi}^2$ test, and t-test, using SPSS statistical program. The results were as follows. First, 3 dimensions(the utility of interpersonal relationship, social achievement and sexual partnership) were emerged on appearance instrumentality, and adolescents were divided into 2 groups(unreceptive and receptive group) by appearance instrumentality. Second, appearance instrumentality had significant effects on female adolescents' body satisfaction; receptive group was more dissatisfied with their bodies, especially weight, hip, abdomen, and body shape than unreceptive group. However, it had no significant effects on male adolescents' body satisfaction. Third, appearance instrumentality had many significant effects on male and female adolescents' appearance management behaviors. Especially, female receptive group had higher intention to perform professional care by a sliming club, beauty salon, and dermatology, and face plastic surgery than unreceptive group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.27-39
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• 2004

Since around 1990. some experimental and shocking ugliness images have been expressed in Fashion and Make-up as well as Fine arts. The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of ugliness images expressed in Modern Make-up from 1995 to 2003, especially focusing on color, and to enlarge the expressions through formative elements and to anticipate the prospect of Make-up in the future. Ugliness is the most negative aesthetic value which is lack of beauty. The 20 century art trends representing the ugly shape have been distorted or deformed or destroyed and extremely exaggerated with yellow, red, black, blue, white, green. The image and color of ugliness can be summarized as historical, avant-garde, decadence, de-constructive, humorous, futuristic trend and Most of colors are the achromatic ones like black, white, dark gray and red. blue, dark brown and so on. These colors cause some negative attributes such as fear. anger, death, devil, Pain, bad, ill omen, sorrow, despair and the like. At the turning Point in 21C are to be extended the range of color according to the experimental attempts such as informal, collage, graphic and the forth. Lastly, The characteristics of ugliness images expressed in the color of Modern Make-up have been analyzed into formlessness and inaccuracy and deformation by Karl Rosenkranz＇s theory.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2022

This study aims to investigate the socio-cultural background of Poulaines, which influenced fashion and contemporary shoe design. Analyzing the characteristics of the Poulaines provided basic data for different shoes. The study method utilized previous studies to explore the concept and characteristics of Poulaines. In the empirical analysis, shoe design data mainly came from collections that illustrate formative elements of contemporary shoe design from the 2010 S/S season to the 2020 S/S season. A total of 709 photo materials were collected and analyzed. The results showed that the morphological characteristics of Poulaines were exaggerated to symbolize classes of the past and sexual expression. The expanding structure was divided into the fore nose, heel, and top-line and featured a design that expressed the formative beauty of Poulaines. Additionally, the decorative desire to represent wealth and class using various materials introduced new designs into contemporary shoe designs while showing extreme decorativeness through over-trimming and color contrast. Furthermore, the heterogeneous characteristics that come from the change and harmony of the shoes' body and heel that deviated from the existing shoe shapes were classified into the dissolution of shapes and mixing and matching. Thus, they broke the monotonous silhouette of shoes and gave variety delicately.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.355-366
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of eye shadow color(brown, purple), lipstick color(red, red purple, and yellow red), and lipstick tone(vivid, light, dull, and dark) and clothing tone(vivid, light, dull, and dark) on image formation. Sets of stimulus and response scales(7 point semantic) were used as experimental materials. The stimuli consisted of 64 color photos manipulated with the combination of eye shadow color, lipstick color, lipstick tone, and clothing tone using computer simulation. The subjects were 384 female undergraduates living in Gyeongnam Province. Image factor of the stimulus was composed of 4 different components: attractiveness, visibility, cuteness, and stability. Eye shadow color, lipstick tone and clothing tone independently influenced on visibility, cuteness, and stability. Lipstick color independently influenced on the stability. In color coordination of clothing and makeup of the same hue, 1) visibility image can be created by the coordination of eye shadow color with lipstick color or clothing tone, or lipstick color with lipstick tone. 2) Cuteness image can be produced by the coordination of eye shadow color with lipstick or clothing tone, lipstick color with lipstick or clothing tone. 3) Stability image can be showed by the coordination of eye shadow color with lipstick tone.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.497-513
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• 2006

The women selected by random sampling were classified into four groups by their body cathexis and Make-up attitude in order to investigate differences in Maslow Need and Make-up behavior. Cluster was classified into four groups: positive congruity(G1), positive incongruity(G2), negative congruity(G3), negative incongruity(G4). The result are as follows: Four groups showed meaningful difference each other between the peculiarity of need. That is, this thesis examined the strength of seven needs and found out that G1 group had the strongest needs in seven ones, comparing with four groups. Next, this thesis found out that G2 had the strongest ones in belonging need, self-respect need, and aesthetic need, and that G4 had the strongest ones in physiology need, self-realization need, and recognition need. So it showed somewhat a little difference among groups. G1>G2>G3>G4, in order, emphasized fashion, alignment, ostentation, and tool in Make-up behaviors, and customs, and G1>G2>G4>G3, in order, emphasized respective peculiarity.