• 복식
• /
• 제57권2호
• /
• pp.143-154
• /
• 2007

This study's purpose is how express gender image according to sex in editorial fashion photography. This study's objectives are the women's magazine Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and man's magazine GQ, Esquire published 2000-2005 within the country. The photography was classified with established a standard based on the precede studies. The photo is classified Gender image according to dress and its ornaments, model character and atmosphere by Sex Expression of femininity woman has exposure of body parts and emphasizing thin eyebrows and red lips, soft and mild image, modest and static pose. Man expressed femininity used ladylike color and pattern, erotic exposure of body and long hair style. Commonly emphasizing red lips, natural background of flower plant, S-line. For expression of masculinity man and woman are used masculinity item, short hair-style and thick eyebrows. And also emphasize square like chin and shoulder. Specially, woman used direct silhouette to conceal soft body curved line. The expressions of androgynous woman and man are colorful dress and make-up. Woman emphasized male face to show and man expressed soft image through hull of abundant material of fur. All two sex selected method that conceal body curved line and face to express sexless. Hiding characteristics of body and face make indistinct of sex. The gender is affected by atmosphere such as model and illumination background as much as clothes because of the editorial fashion photography.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제2권2호
• /
• pp.395-413
• /
• 1994

Costume is mirror of diverse life styles and attitudes in human life. It has a meaning beyond "clothing" . Fashion illlustration is to express these costumes with a picture. So, it can be said that it is a ′mirror of costumes′ in historical side. The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of fashion illustration of 17th century, which called its first one and to look into its characteristics and costumes of 17th century respotlighting fashion illustrators and painters related with fashion illustration in those days. This study is based on Western Europe by literatures. The fashion illustration in 17th century designed by painters and fashion illustrators. They are Wenceslaus Hollar, Abraham Bosse, Jacques Callot, Jean de st Jean, N. Bonar, A. Trouvain, A. Arnoult in France and so on. The characteristics of fashion illustration in 17th century are as follows : 1. There was a quickening of modern civil consciousness in 17th century. As the subject of costume culture moved from noble class to the working class which began to have a free, the fashion illustration changed to the direction of informing their social class and job. 2. The fashion illustrations of 17th century showed storng realism which was a base of modern picture. 3. The most of them showed costume plates. It was not to transmit adding intended forecast but to describe sincerely in costumes′ record. However, the fashion illustration since the middle of 17th century was designed considering fashion. 4. It could be said that the fashion illustration of 17th century was the forest one of today. It was expressed by Wenceslaus Hollar′s ones. And it is found in his suggestion of popular costumes before and behind and delicate description like accessories. 5. They were transmitted by fashion magazines internationally. Le Mercure Galant, which printed mode plates in 1678, was the first modern fashion magazine aiming at general readers. The fashion illustration of 17th century can divide into ones for court, for working classes, costume plates. The fashion illustrations for court designed by court painters. There were court costumes of early time, spanish Mode and of lately time, French Court Culture. They had baroque elements with a bunddle of ribbons and race decoration. On the other hand, the fashion iooustrations for working class were under the influence on Netherlands styles. They were designed for the purpose of god function and much use. That′s why was under the influence of puritanical life creed. In this situation, the costume plates directed the fashion in those days. At that time, they were supplied widely and it amy be an attempt of popularization. The fashion illustrations of 17th century appeared that they had transmissible character and artistics expression. On the basis of them, we can look into the fashion illustrations of today.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제10권6호
• /
• pp.52-62
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's pants design from 1962 to 1998 by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. For sample selection, first, 932 pictorials of men';s wear designs from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and SFAA's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998 were selected and then excluded some samples that could not clearly identify the pants design. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The final samples are classified into pattern, color, length, silhouette, and existence or non-existence of turn-up. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. ; (1) Solid pattern was the most prevailed throughout the last four decades and followed by stripe, check, the others, abstract, dot and floral. There is no significant difference in the type of men's pants pattern between each decade. (2) It showed a significant difference in colors of men's pants between decades. The colors in men's wear are divided into nine categories and the order of occurrence are as follows; multi-color is the most frequently shown and followed by brown, gray, blue, black, green, pink, yellow, and red. More various colors appeared over the period, however, multi color was the most popular in all decades but in the 60s. (3) Full length of pants style occupied more than 96% throughout all four decades. Due to the popularity of sports wear in men's fashion during the 90s, the shorts style appeared not only in sports wear and casual wear but also in suit style. (4) There is a significant difference in silhouette of men's pants between decades. The silhouette of men's pants were divided into four types and their order of occurrence are as follows; basic, baggy, fitted, and loose silhouette. Basic silhouette was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades. (5) A significant difference was shown in the existence or non-existence of turn-up of men's pants between decades. Non-existence of turn-up of men's pants was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제31권6호
• /
• pp.879-891
• /
• 2007

빠른 유행변화와 긴 제조과정으로 인하여 패션업계에서 유행예측은 매우 중요한 과업이며,성공의 열쇠가 된다. 따라서 예측된 스타일이 소비자들에게 수용되어 유행되는 과정은 학문적으로나 산업적으로 매우 중요한 주제이다. 이 연구는 해외 콜렉션에서 예측된 유행스타일들이 한국시장에서 어떻게 수용되는지를 알아보고자 여성복 해외 콜렉션 자료와 서울의 스트리트패션 자료를 02 s/s 시즌부터 05 s/s 시즌까지 7시즌에 걸쳐 비교하였다. 해외 콜렉션 자료는 전문 패션잡지인 Fashion Show에서 수집하였으며, 스트리트 패션자료는 서울패션디자인센터의 자료를 사용하였다. 그 결과 우리나라는 해외 콜렉션에서 나타난 전반적인 트렌드를 잘 수용하고 있으며 특히 이 기간 동안은 스포티 스타일과 페미닌 스타일이 크게 유행하였던 것으로 나타났다. 그러나 해외 콜렉션에서 나타난 스타일이 그대로 수용되기보다는 변형되거나, 일부만이 수용되는 경우가 더 많았으며 이것은 한국사회의 특성과 대량생산에 기인한 것으로 사료된다. 또한 해외 콜렉션에서 제시된 스타일들 중 한국에서는 거의 수용되지 않은 경우도 있었으며, 한편 한국에서만 나타난 스타일과 아이템들도 있었다. 이 연구는 해외 콜렉션 자료를 주 정보원으로 사용하는 국내 의류업체들의 상품기획에 좋은 가이드라인을 제공하고 있으며, 또한 한국 패션시장의 특성을 이해하는데 도움이 되는 실증적인 연구로 의의가 있다.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제19권6호
• /
• pp.1259-1271
• /
• 2011

This study investigates and compares the changes of naturalism in fashion presented over a 30-year period to understand the diversity of naturalism in fashion. Data were collected from 59 volumes of the "Vogue" magazine for January and July in each year from 1980 to 2009. The data used for content analysis consists of 440 words and these were condensed into three periods according to decade(1980~1989, 1990~1999, and 2000~2009). The selected words were classified into four sub-themes according to the previous research definitions such as primitive look, natural look, eco look and handcrafted look. The results are as follows. First, naturalism of fashion was highly presented in the 1980s but the percentages of naturalism in three decades were all more or less similar. Especially, natural look appeared more in the 1980s and eco look was in the 1990s, while natural look, eco look and handcrafted look were found all together in the 2000s. Second, naturalism of fashion showed higher frequency of F/W seasons in the 1990s, while S/S seasons in the 1990s and 2000s. In particular, natural look was presented more at S/S seasons. The sub-themes coexistence were presented in the 24 seasons out of 59 seasons and showed more variously in the 2000s. Third, the words selected from sub-themes of naturalism in fashion demonstrated the differences by decade.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.45-65
• /
• 2014

The importance of the cultural identity of each country is emphasized among the new cultural paradigm of the 21st century. Leading world-wide trends, overseas licensed fashion magazines have expressed characteristics close to the culture and lifestyle of each country at the same time. The goal of this study was focused on finding out the differences and similarities between overseas licensed fashion magazine, or if the content would be compared to the aesthetic characteristics and criteria of the country they were published in. To accomplish this, we extracted the color, material and modifier from the scripts of the Korean and Japanese editions of VOGUE published during S/S in 2012 for comparative analysis of the aspects of color, fabrics and modifier between Japan and Korea. There were common but also unique characteristics, as the issues of VOGUE KOREA and VOGUE JAPAN published during the research period had modifier to fit each season and trend, the emergence of color and fabric. Especially, the kind and frequency of color, fabric and modifier could be considered as expressing their own unique fashion culture. In case of Korea, maximal with colorful and decorative image is especially strong, while in Japan the soft and gentle feminine image was rather strong.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제22권1호
• /
• pp.86-98
• /
• 2014

This study analyzed fashion businesses based on the 6P's, products, prices, place, promotion, people, and patron for business owners in the Myeongdong commercial fashion district. Furthermore, this study proposed plans that would activate the Myeongdong fashion district and continuously develop it as a global fashion city. A survey was conducted from August to September, 2012 for 249 fashion business owners in Myeongdong. Eventually, only 208 questionnaires were used for the analysis. The research results were as follows. First, domestic brands have the largest share in the market and sales of fashion accessories were higher than the sales of clothes. Second, the prices for those fashion items ranged from low to mid-price. Third, the opening of new shops keeps increasing, and the size of the shops falls between ten and twenty pyeong generally. 'Self-production' was the highest form of production compared to any other form, and regarding importation sites, importation from overseas was the highest. Fourth, regarding promotion types, the sales in shops was the most commonly used promotion method compared to television and magazine advertising, and personal selling. Fifth, the proportion of male proprietors was larger than that of female proprietors. Most employees had less than five years of sales experience. Sixth, the main customers were females in their 20s and the proportions of Korean and foreign customers was similar.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제14권5호
• /
• pp.749-757
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of Latin American style expressed in modern fashion. Latin American fashion has been overlooked the influences, scope and diversity of dress within this world culture region. So, this study aim to unravel the history and significance of Latin American fashion. As for the research methodology, to classify types of the Latin American fashion style theoretical study and content analysis for Vogue magazine has been undertaken. In this study, the term of Latin American fashion style refers to the dress of common characteristics involving Latin American culture. To inquire into the characteristics of the types, various cases has been searched through books, internet, and designer's collections. The results of this study can be summarized as followings. The major types of Latin American fashion style are Indio-ethnic style, tropical-exotic style, and latin-romantic style. First, Indio-ethnic style has been involving traditional costumes and patterns which are originated in ancient Mexico and Peru. Second, tropical-exotic style has been involving bright color, tropical fruit and African flower pattern, various textures, and relaxed silhouette which are inspired by free and easy culture in Brazil and the Caribbean. Third, latin-romantic style has been involving the mix of Latin American tradition and romantic detail such as see-through material, lace, ruffle, spanish flower motif. In conclusion, Latin American style on contemporary fashion is based on interest to cannibalize folk theme, technique, icons and exotic others.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제14권6호
• /
• pp.928-940
• /
• 2012

The present study aimed to propose the competitive strategy to fashion brand franchise stores by analyzing articles regarding success stores as published in fashion magazines. A total of 91 articles were selected from three fashion magazines and content analysis was applied to extract major factors. Four types of trading areas and eight product types were compared by the major factors. As results, six major factors composing competitive strategy were analyzed such as personal selling, management of sales forces, promotion, customer relationship management, management of store space, and relationship with headquarter. Comparing competitive factors by the types of trading area, management of sales forces and personal selling were crucial for central district and for outlets/interchange district. On the other hand, personal selling and customer relationship management were important for local district while management of store space and personal selling were critical for tenants of the large discount store/shopping mall area. Comparing by product types, personal selling was the most important factor for all product types except young casualwear whereas the second important one was management of sales forces for adult casualwear, womenbbbs wear, and others. For menbbbs wear, sales promotion was the second important one whereas management of store space was the second crucial one for underwear and childrenbbbs clothing. Based on the present study result, it is proposed that competitive strategy of individual fashion brand franchise store should be differently developed because the characteristics of trading area and product type are different and in turn, customers benefit and competition might be different.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제2권1호
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 1998

In this study fashion illustrations published in American Vogue from 1960 to 1989 were investigated. Among the large number of illustrations published in American Vogue in this period a considerable number of illustrations was chosen: from 1960 to 1969 143 editorial illustrations and 333 advertisement illustrations; from 1970 to 1979 34 editorial illustrations and 168 advertisement illustrations; from 1980 to 1989 123 editorial illustrations and 81 advertisement illustrations. In studying those illustrations the main point was put in finding characteristics and the changing trend of fashion Illustrations. In the sixties editorial fashion illustrations were published mainly during early sixties. The Illustrations of Rene Bouch, Evelyn Marcil, Dagmar and Eunice Moore Sloane took the space of editorials. Among those Illustrators Bouch published most frequently. The companies such as Galey & Lord, Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf Goodman, Bonwit Teller etc. used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The name Kenneth Paul Block, Babara Pearlman and Dorothy Hood can be found very frequently on the illustrations for those companies. Antonio Lopez too published in 1963 some advertisement illustrations. In the seventies the total number of editorial fashion illustrations diminished drastically compared to the number in the sixties. Antonio published in 1973 and 74 fifteen illustrations, Joe Eula published from 1976 to 79 thirteen illustrations, and beside them Mats Gustavson published in 1978 six illustrations. The number of advertisement illustrations decreased a little, but many companies used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The illustrator who worked most actively were Block and Fred Greenhill. In the eighties editorial illustrations experienced a "Renaissance". New high-level illustrators appeared and new fashion illustration magazines were found. Antonio played a central role among illustrators published for editorials in Vogue. In addition to him 15 other illustrators including Mats and Eula with various styles worked for editorials. In contrast to the flourishment of editorial illustrations the number of advertisement illustrations decreased compared to seventies as a result of the domination of fashion photography in this area. Today only few fashion illustrations can be found in fashion magazines. The magazines are dominated by fashion photographs. However fashion illustrations will not totally perish from fashion magazines, because it still has some valuable functions in fashion advertisement. Those functions cannot be fulfilled by photography. Therefore fashion illustration will survive in fashion magazine but playa minor role compared to photography.