• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1109-1120
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• 2009

This study develops a fitted torso type basic pattern for men by utilizing 3D body scan data. Recent fashion trends are reflected in the development of the pattern. The subjects were 15 men in their 20's, who wear size 95 (M size). Body scan data was obtained through a 3D whole body scanner (WB4, Cyberware, USA), and a body surface development figure for developing male fitted torso type basic pattern was attained through the use of Rapid Form 2006 as well as Auto CAD 2006 programs. The results are as follows: A body surface development figure through body surface segment method showed high exactitude in an error range of 100$\pm$1%. In addition, it occurred in an error range of 100:1:3% because of the hard scanning conditions in the incline of the shoulder and armpit areas. However, the body surface development figure as well as the direct measurement results can be used as basic data for the given patternmaking since the error range falls into 100$\pm$3%. Dart amounts obtained from the average cross section were center back 2.2cm (24.3%), back armpit point 3.8cm (41.8%), front armpit point 3.0cm (33.9%). As shown the jacket pattern, the biggest dart amount was portioned out at the back armpit point. The drafting equations for the development pattern acquired are as follows; Full width=C/2+5cm, back length=height/4-1cm, armhole depth=(C/10+12cm)+3cm, back width=2C/10+2cm, front width=2C/10. The development pattern was a fitted torso basic pattern that was composed of 3 pieces, so it would be very useful in developing shirt or jacket patterns. According to the results of the evaluation of the developed pattern appearance, it obtained higher scores of over 3.5 points in almost items, meaning that the developed pattern is appropriate for a male fitted torso type basic pattern. It suggests a possibility of patternmaking from a body surface development figure in 2-D to prototype.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.139-146
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to analyze the efficiency and working conditions of the patternwork departments by surveying the apparel manufacturing companies sampled in Seoul for their organization, working enviornment and technology of their patternwork departments, and thereby, find the ways to promote the functions of the patternwork department. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of analyzing the working environment of patternwork departments, it was found that the problems counted by most of the pattern workers were lack of workforce, unhygienic or unpleasant workplaces. 2. As a consequence of analyzing the sample production in terms of tacking methods and times, They rarely tacked the white cotton. Such an omission of tacking procedure may serve to save time, but if a sewing error occurs, the working time would rather be longer due to the defects of pattern to be remedied. 3. As a result of reviewing the general patternwork conditions, it was found that the patterns were still worked out in two dimensions. On the other hand, more than 60% of the pattern workers were applying to their patternworks the styles which they had learned from their seniors. Few patterns are being developed in conformity to apparel trends or body shape changes. 4. As a consequence of examining the problems involving the production of patternsl, the problems involved primarily the patterns incised off no-dart pattern and body structure, and in light of items, involved mainly the trousers and in light of material, involved much the stretch or velvet. Moreover, it is deemed necessary to establish a special institute devoted to a systematic development of pattern technology. 5. Most of the CAD patternworks are used not for pattern designing but for grading and marking works, which suggests that pattern workers need to be educated on this new technology for more diverse and precise patternworks. 6. Lastly, as a result of examining the conditions of patternwork departments and their relevant works, most of the pattern workers were found to be subject to irregular and excessive workload, having little time to produce good patterns. This finding suggests that it is necessary to mandate the pattern workers to more involve the commodity planning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.65-77
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the correlation between the density, the Count and the width of cross section in 2D function through comparison the difference of simulated fabrics based on the various yarns, and to compare the 3D effect by Lay Mapping of diverse fabrics. The method of research is to weave the eight fabrics composed of cotton, linen, worsted, slender yarn, loop, $m{\acute{e}}lange$, woolen, and yarn twist with Hi-Tex program, and to practice 3D mapping with Hi-Print program. As a mapping object, the flared skirt which is a basic costume item is selected. As a result, the thickness of yarn in CAD system was fixed by the width of cross section rather than Count, especially by the width of core section not including the fluff section. The type of yarn such as cotton yarn, linen yarn, and worsted had effect on the shape of texture, but had few interrelations with dimension. In the case of 3D mapping, the textural characteristic and the dimension were presented precisely, whereas there were several limitations. First, the thickness of tissue has not been represented. Secondly, the effect of texture such as fuzzy look, loop was not expressed on the skirt outline including sideline and hemline. Thirdly, the difference of silhouette was not distinct. The common point in 2D and 3D operations is that the representation of texture is relatively accurate and that is difficult to measure and manifest of thickness, the side. For more professional digitalizing in fashion industry, above all in the domain of 3D, it must be supplement the subdivided and differentiated mapping process according to the texture, deviating from the existing analog-based organization which has to designate the form and silhouette suitable for tissue.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.742-752
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is the image of clothing according to the change of the dots' size was analyzed and its influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing was investigated. White waterdrop patterns were designed on the 12 kinds of black texture using Photoshop and CAD program in regular arrangement of diamond figure, composed of white waterdrop(0.5cm, 1.0cm, 1.5cm and 2cm in diameter) and interval(diameter : interval-1 : 1, 1 : 2, 1 : 4). Applying above specification, the photograph stimulus of 12 kinds of X-line one-piece dress with wide square neckline and without sleeve or detailed ornament was presented on a screen in the same size as when putting it on. The image of polka dots clothes was investigated by questionnaire survey. The object of the study was 320 females aged between 16 and 29. Factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, $Scheff\acute{e}$ verification and two-way ANOVA using SPSS 10.0 were carried out for data analysis. Followings are the results: 1) The image of polka dots clothing consists of 4 factors as aesthetics, brevity, dynamism and lightweight. 2) The size of the dot has a great influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing. 3) The evaluations of the image of polka dots clothing were different depending on the age and physical image, the personal characteristics of the object of investigation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1012-1024
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of color, shirt tone, tie tone, perceiver's gender on impression formation by applying tone on tone coloration of shirt and necktie: coloration of two colors. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 32 upper body photographs which were color outputs by CAD system(4D-box program). We unified those colors of shirts and neckties same, then made shirt and necktie tone differently. 27 bi-polar adjectives, each of which was graded into seven in its degree, were used to evaluate the impression. The subjects of this research were 192 male and 192 female college students in Gyeongnam province including Jinju City. The data was analyzed by using SPSS program. Analysis methods were four-way ANOVA. The items of the adjectives were classified into 5 impression dimension. - potency, activity, attractiveness, visibility and tenderness. Color, shirt tone, tie tone, and perceiver gender influenced on 5 impression formation by interaction as well as independently. Blue tie with vivid, light or dull tone had an effect on the formation of potency impression, vivid or light tone of shirt affected activity regardless of color or tie tone. As shirt and tie had different tone, effect on the formation of attractiveness impression, light tone had a negative effect on visibility but positive effect on tenderness. red color were more effective than blue expressed on visibility and tenderness in shirt or tie.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.99-99
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• 2012

소비자의 기호가 다양화되면서 다품종 소량생산에 따른 대량 맞춤화에 대한 관심이 높아지고 있으며, 1990년대 후반부터 급격히 확산되고 있는 인터넷의 발달 및 디지털 기기의 확산에 따라 인터넷을 기반으로 한 전자상거래 환경에서의 대량 맞춤화 프로세스는 최근 의류 분야에서 주요한 경향으로 받아들여지고 있다. 대량 맞춤화 의류 제품의 수요는 인터넷 등 IT 기술의 발달과 맞물려 최근 개인의 특성과 취향을 고려한 인터넷 맞춤서비스를 기반으로 증가추세에 있으며, CAD 등의 테크놀러지의 활용을 통하여 디자인, 패턴제작, 재단 등의 자동 시스템을 도입함으로써 그 영역을 확장하고 있다. 이에 발맞추어 국내에서는 '디지털 패션 시스템'을 통해 3차원 바디 스캔, 3차원 컴퓨터 그래픽스, 3차원 Simulation, DID, DTP, 맞춤주문형 제품의 대량 생산기술 등의 단위 기술이 기업단위로 활용되는 등 가상현실을 이용한 3차원 가상쇼핑 등을 포함하는 기술로서 차세대 섬유패션 산업의 창출에 기여하고 있다. 그 중, 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅은 디자인에서부터 날염까지 전체 공정을 컴퓨터로 처리하여 기존의 복잡한 날염 공정을 단축하여 다품종 소량생산이 가능한 날염 방식으로, 대량 맞춤형 프로세스를 지원하며, 프로슈머(prosumer)로서의 소비자가 직접 참여하여 그들의 욕구를 최대화 할 수 있는 소비자 만족을 극대화 시킬 수 있는 대량 맞춤화 프로세스 중 하나의 단계로 소비자의 수요 반영하는 요소로 작용하고 있다. 즉, 디지털 패션 시스템에서의 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅은 대량 맞춤형 의류 제품에 있어 소비자 만족도와 직결되는 요인으로 분석된다. 따라서, 본 연구에서는 디지털 패션 시스템 기반의 대량맞춤형 섬유제품 및 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅 적용 섬유제품에 대한 기초 평가 문항을 제시하고, 소비자 태도를 분석하여 제시하였다. 또한, 분석된 기초 소비자 태도를 반영하여, 디지털 패션 시스템 기반의 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅(Digital Textile Printing) 의류 제품의 선호도, 인지도, 수요도 및 구입의향을 분석하여 최종적으로 디지털 패션 시스템에 적용된 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅 의류 제품의 수요 경향을 제시하였다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.494-510
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop unique men's pullovers using the patterns of Baekje tile, brick, and gilt-bronze shoes. As the method of the study, it was reviewed of the literature about Baekje traditional patterns and the knitting techniques. The development of pullover design was used TexPro design CAD program. The manufacture of pullover were knitted by Shima Seiki computerized knitting machines and Brother manual knitting machines. The results of study were as follows. First, the patterns of Baekje tile, brick and gilt-bronze shoes were suited to develop as motif for men's pullover. Second, men's pullover using Baekje traditional patterns were able to maintain the identity of Korean traditional culture and express the originality of design. Third, pullover was chosen three styles and was developed four design. Each pullover design was applied four colorway. Forth, pullover products were made by wool 100% yarn or cotton 47%/acrylic 53% mixed yarn. The patterns were expressed by knitting techniques of floating jacquard and birds-eye jacquard. Luxurious knit fashions were produced. Consequently, through the men's pullover development utilizing Baekje traditional patterns was showed the superiority of the local traditional culture, which is further emphasized by the current globalization. It also confirmed the possibility of the development of high value-added knitted fashion products to meet the needs of modern people to pursue individuality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.846-858
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• 2008

This study was designed to propose a method to draft bodice block pattern from 3D body scan data. Subjects were ten elderly women in their 60's, who wear basic size(B: 94cm, W: 82cm) garment. Scanning was done using 3D whole body scanner(WB4, Cyberware). Measurements for 3D data and cross section were attained using Auto CAD, by which a upper bodice pattern for elderly women was drawn on the basis of short measured method. The results are as following: As for most items, no significant differences were shown between measurements from Martin's anthropometry and those from 3D scan data, suggesting measurement from 3D scan data could be used to draft a pattern. The drafting equations acquired were as follows; width of pattern=B/2+5.5, width of waist=W/2+3.5cm, dart amount=8cm. Dart distributions were 23%(B.P.) : 20%(front armpit) : 17%(side seam) : 18%(back armpit) : 15%(back protruded point) : 7% (center back line). Through wearing test using 5-point Likert scale, resultant pattern was evaluated as appropriate for elderly women's pattern to get over 4 point. As a result, it might be said that 3D scanning application is effective for elderly women in that it doesn't take time so much as Martin's anthropometry and that their body shape vary compared with those of young women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.8
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• pp.1297-1309
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of shirt color, tie color, tone, perceiver' gender on impression formation by applying tone-in-tone coloration of shirt and necktie: coloration of two colors. This experiment was designed to utilize the $2{\times}6{\times}4{\times}2$ factorial designs. and they are shirt color(red, blue), tie color(red, yellow red, yellow, green, blue, purple), tone(vivid, light, dull, dark), and perceiver' gender(a male, a female). The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 48 upper body photographs which were color outputs by CAD system(4D-box program). The subjects of this research were 288 male and 288 female college students. There were established impression dimension from factor analysis 27 bi-polar adjectives and investigated the effect of interaction between each variable affected impression formations. The items of the adjectives are classified into 4 Impression dimensions: activity, potency, attractiveness, and tenderness. Shirt color, tie color, tone, and perceiver' gender influenced on impression formation. Specially, tie color and tone influenced on the 4 impression dimension greatly by interaction as well as independently. As a result tie is very important clue of impression formation in tone-in-tone coloration of shirt and necktie. Even though tie occupies only a small area in men's clothes it has great effect since it is close to the face.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 2006

The field of textiles and clothing is intimately involved in the business as a practical study. Many researchers consider how apply the theory to the business. Therefore, the study explores a process which builds an efficient relationship of industry-university focused on the example applied to an industry-university project of uniform design. The development process of the studyis composed of 4 levels: research and analysis, design development, production of samples, and manufacturing. In the process of research and analysis, it found out preference of design elements. These elements were reflected in design development to satisfy employee of wearing uniform. In the level of design development, 20 designs were deployed to use CAD system. Five deigns of them were produced to samples in 3 stages. Finally, to manufacturing was in charge of cooperative enterprises with clothing production equipment and university played a role of inspector. From theses research results, it has known that the field of uniform business is suitable for industry-university project because an enterprise with an order can get advice about clothing, a manufacturing company is able to complement a weaknessin the design, and university can have a chance applied the theory to the business. After this, the study will make a contribution to setting the direction of business to industry-university project.