• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

Analysis of the species of wood in the wooden materials and the chemical composition of the fabric of the clothing excavated from the tomb of Yi Jing (1580-1642) has determined that the wooden materials, including the coffin (內棺, naegwan), burial chamber(外棺, oegwan), chilseongpan(七星板, bottom-lining board), and fan-shaped slats were made of pine(Pinus densiflora). The analysis of the fabrics suggested that the cloth attached to the fan-shaped slats, the funeral banner with inscriptions, and the five pouches for the corpse (五囊, onang) were all made of silk. The jacket was made of plain-weave cotton, while the inner and outer cloth of the socks were made of cotton and hemp, respectively. Among the silk items, the pouches for the left and right feet (constituting the five pouches for the corpse) were made from a satin-weave figured silk, while the other silk items were made of ju(紬), or plain-weave silk fabric. Infrared analysis revealed that the fan-shaped slats were decorated with cloud patterns across the entire surface, while the funeral banner and the five pouches for the corpse bore ink inscriptions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.129-141
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• 2021

This study investigated fabrics, washing and cares, design, pattern, subsidiary materials, and sewing methods with a focus on the functional outers using moisture-permeable waterproof fabric as a shell; in addition, each element was analyzed for differences depending on fabric type. The characteristics of 34 outers were investigated through labels, online product introductions, visual inspection, observations from two experts with more than 30 years experience and wear tests. Moisture-permeable waterproof fabrics used for the outer were classified into two types; in addition, the shell of the high-density fabric and the 2 & 3-layer fabrics had different characteristics. Various fabrics, detailed designs, and three-dimensional patterns suitable for each part of the human body were used to improve functionality. In addition, various subsidiary materials and sewing methods were used to form an organic relationship. The same washing and cares, patterns and subsidiary materials were used regardless of fabric type; however, the fabric type influenced the detailed design and sewing. The outers with high-density fabric had a loose fit, short placket, e-banded cuffs, lock-stitch, and lock-stitch+binding. However, the outer with 2 & 3 layer fabric had a slim fit, hood width adjustment, zippered pockets, cuffs with tab, seamless adhesive sewing such as laminating, lock-stitch+ seam-sealing, and welding.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.6 s.85
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• pp.27-35
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• 2005

Conventional pad- dry-cure(thermo-fixation) process usually produces functional performance on both sides of a fabric. UV curing technique was applied to impart water- and oil-repellent finish effective only on the face of a PET knitted fabric. The preferential one-side coating, by virtue of the limited penetration of UV light, was achieved by W curing after padding of a fluorocarbon agent without special coating or printing equipments. The difference in the functional property of face and back sides was examined by measuring water and oil repellency at each side of the treated fabric. The influence of pre/post-irradiation dose and agent concentration on the performance of the finished fabrics were investigated. While increase in both resin concentration and post-irradiation did not have significant effect on the finish, UV pre-irradiation of PET fabrics caused remarkable influence presumably due to appropriate surface modification of PET fabrics required for facile wetting of the resin. The dimensional stability and color change of the UV cured fabrics measured by FAST and reflectance spectrophotometry showed significantly decreased color difference and increased percent extension compared with the samples pre-irradiated without agent application.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.143-154
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• 2017

This study was conducted to develop fabrics using non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes made from curcuma and coffee extract. The natural dyes were applied to non-printed cotton fabrics using the dip dyeing method, and the pattern was hand-printed onto the dyed fabrics to make dyed printed-fabrics. The four types of developed fabric samples were compared to analyze the effects of the dyeing materials and printing on the hygienic properties of curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics. The findings were as follows. First, air permeability of both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics was greatly affected by the presence of patterns, although the type of dye did not seem to have an effect. Printing greatly reduced air permeability of the fabric, and coffee-dyed fabric showed greater reduction of dyeing method than curcuma-dyed fabric. Moisture regain also tended to decrease with printing, but the change was much smaller compared to air permeability. Second, increased UV blockage was observed in curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics with patterns compared to non-printed fabrics, showing that printing enhanced UV blocking. Third, deodorization rate tended to increase sharply for both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics until 30 minutes and gradually increased thereafter to yield 30% for curcuma and 50% for coffee at 120 minutes, demonstrating higher deodorization of coffee dye. Coffee-dyed fabric showed an antibacterial rate about twice as high as that of curcuma-dyed fabric, and the observed data suggest that curcuma-dyed fabric had an insignificant level of antibiosis. Fourth, printing significantly enhanced wash, sunlight, and compound colorfastness of the two types of dyed fabrics. The effect of printing was most dramatic on sunlight and compound colorfastness, which are aspects in which natural dyed fabrics perform poorly in general. Eventually, the development and application of biologically- and environmentally-friendly fabrics with natural dyes correspond with increased interest towards the wellness and healthy attitudes of modern society.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.11
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• pp.105-114
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing satisfaction of highschool girls’summer uniforms, and to evaluate the comfort-related properties of fabrics used in the uniforms. The subjects were 441 female high school students attending three different schools in Chongju city. The data was collected using self-administered questionnaires to measure the wearing satisfaction of summer school uniforms. Factor analysis, t-test, and F-test were used for data analysis. The heat and moisture transfer properties and air permeable properties of their fabrics were evaluated to measure as comfort-related properties. 1. Most students were wearing blouses made of polyester/rayon blended fabrics and skirts made of 50% wool and 50% polyester blended fabrics. 2. Clothing care and management, and appearance of summer school uniform were assessed positively, while style and design, and the level of comfort were assessed negatively. 3. The subfactors of wearing satisfaction varied according to school, style and design, and fabrics of high school girls’summer uniforms. 4. PET fabrics were rated as having a lower value of thermal retention and a higher value of air permeability than other blouse fabrics. 5. There were not differences significantly in thermal properties according to skirt materials.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.131-138
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• 2017

Most of high performance fabrics for the car racing protective clothing have been developed to have thermal resistance, flame retardant property, impact resistance and anti-frictional properties to protect the racer from the crucial accident. In this study, the meta-aramid fabric, which has inherent flame retardant, was coated with nanoparticles of SiC to enhance the impact resistance and anti-friction properties. Uniform coating of the nanoparticles onto the fabrics was obtained by using tape casting method. As the experimental parameters, size and content of the SiC nanoparticle were varied with the coating conditions of the fabric surface. The effects of the nanoparticle coating on the properties of meta-aramid fabric were examined with various instrumental analyses such as SEM, tensile strength and abrasion test.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.6 s.85
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• pp.42-50
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• 2005

Silk fabrics are widely used as high quality cloth, interior, quilting and bedding materials because of having excellent touch, drape, resilience and low specific gravity characteristics. But, many waste silk materials are produced during the reeling, spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing processes. From this fact, the recycle of waste silks is interested in studying for the application of industrial textile materials such as filter, oil absorbent and wound protector. Thus, this research has surveyed the decolorizing and carding characteristics in order to recycle the colored waste silk materials. As the results, the carding condition of waste silk fabrics was optimized with different fiber lengths and curding passage. In addition, the fiber failure mechanism from the wasted silk microdamage caused by carding process was investigated. Also it was found that longitudinal and transverse cracks, abrasion and pilling were formed on the surface of wasted silk fibers.

• Korean Journal of Materials Research
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.133-137
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• 2011

Gold have been used as an electrode materials having a good mechanical flexibility as well as electrical conductivity, however the stretchability of the gold on a flexible substrate is poor because of its small elastic modulus. To overcome this mechanical inferiority, the reinforcing gold is necessary for the stretchable electronics. Among the reinforcing materials having a large elastic modulus, carbon nanotube (CNT) is the best candidate due to its good electrical conductivity and nanoscale diameter. Therefore, similarly to ferroconcrete technology, here we demonstrated gold electrodes mechanically reinforced by inserting fabrics of CNTs into their bodies. Flexibility and stretchability of the electrodes were determined for various densities of CNT fabrics. The roles of CNTs in resisting electrical disconnection of gold electrodes from the mechanical stress were confirmed using field emission scanning electron microscope and optical microscope. The best mechanical stability was achieved at a density of CNT fabrics manufactured by 1.5 ml spraying. The concept of the mechanical reinforced metal electrode by CNT is the first trial for the high stretchable conductive materials, and can be applied as electrodes materials in various flexible and stretchable electronic devices such as transistor, diode, sensor and solar cell and so on.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.74-90
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• 2010

The history of contemporary art in the 20th century can be said the history of changes. Today the variety of objects destroy the boundaries of each genre. This study aims to understand the relationship between fashion and art that becomes closer by examining contemporary art in the Gwangju Biennale 2008 to enlarge the range of understanding of mutual communication between contemporary art and fabrics which are the object of fashion. The research method was to investigate the characteristics and expression methods of object fabrics shown in contemporary art through the review of papers published at home and abroad, related literatures, and Internet materials. Also, the meaning, technique, and methods of fabrics were analyzed from works introduced in the Gwangju Biennale 2008. In order to achieve this purpose, fabric was examined as the object of work in Gwangju Biennale 2008. As a result, it is found that fabric plays an important role in changing environment newly with more dynamic, abundant, and comfortable and softer feeling than any other artistic materials and enlarging the boundaries of artistic materials by exploring formative possibility. Furthermore, its multi-dimensional expression characteristic presents unbounded possibility. Fabric which has long formed close relationship with human life has taken its place as one genre now. It departs from the past principles of fabric handicraft and the restriction of a classical norm and becomes characteristic of very wide-ranging selection of materials and free expression. Its soft and warm texture provides emotional stability for a human. Although the peculiarity of fabric as an active concept to human environment and new materials and technique based on the aesthetic consciousness of a human rely on the high development of industry, it is significant that artists' liberation from their concept and material sense is accompanied by the expression of freedom.