• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 1996

The purpose of the study is to analyze the dresses appeared in Nogultai. In the analysis of this study names and kinds of fabrics, colors, motifs, places of production and names of dresses were examined. In the study various kinds of fabric colors and motifs of fabrics were appeared in Nogulta. Also a variety of silks such s brocade, damask, plain silks, ra, silk gauze, hemp cloth, cotton cloth, wool and fur were found. Colors of fabrics were of blue, green, indigo blue, red, light blue, brown, yellow, black and white were described. Mostly cleouds, flowers and mixtures of floral designs were used in silk brocades, Walrus was motif the only animal revealed in silk brocade. Nanching, Hanchaw, Suchaw were famous production centers of silk damasks, silk gauge and silk ra. Also Shantung and Suchaw produced good quality plain silk. Various kinds of coats, waded coat, wadded short coat, inner jackets, vest trousers, winter cap were included. Also accessories such as belt, cap, boots, socks, money belt, pouch were described. In addition, cosmetics, cosmetic kits and names of semi precious stones were mentioned. Seasonal garments differed according to kinds of fabrics and materials used. Wadded coat, wadded short coat, vest, winter cap and wool socks appeared as winter wear.

• International Journal of Air-Conditioning and Refrigeration
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.87-96
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• 2004

Acoustic performances of the steel-wire fabrics manufactured from the crushed tires were experimentally investigated for various thicknesses and bulk densities. The well- known two-cavity method was used to measure the characteristic impedances, the propagation constants, and the absorption coefficients. The normal absorption coefficients measured by the two-cavity method agreed well with those measured by the two-microphone impedance tube method. The experimental results showed that the magnitude and frequency range of the absorption coefficient were controllable by changing the thickness and the bulk density of the steel-wire fabrics. Therefore, the steel-wire fabrics from the crushed tires can be successfully used as a good sound absorbing material.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.10
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• pp.77-85
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• 2002

This study was conducted to evaluate the efficiency of various fabrics in protecting from solar radiation and ultraviolet radiation(UV). Six kinds of fabrics were selected and examined in singles or doubles. It was studied how the materials and the thickness of air layer between the fabric and the floor affected the protection efficiency of fabrics from sunlight. The results were as followes; 1) Protection from solar radiation: In the case of over 2 cm air layer, doubled fabric composed of aluminum coating-nylon and white or black polyester/cotton(T/C) was the most protective(p<0.001). In the case of 0 cm air layer, the case without fabric and white T/C were more effective(p<0.001). And the thicker the air layer the more effective the protection. 2) Protection from UV : Doubled fabric composed of aluminum coating-nylon and black T/C was the most protective(p<0.001) and the thinner the air layer the more effective the protection(p<0.001).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1638-1648
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• 2002

In this study, we classified adjectives to represent the image of clothing materials as the fundamental process for evaluation of the images on various fabrics and reviewed hierarchy and evaluation dimensions regarding the image of clothing materials. The adjectives to express the image of clothing materials were extracted from Fashion Magazine and Fashion Trend Book The similarity among adjectives was measured by pair-wise comparison without showing fabrics. From the result of the cluster analysis, 87 adjectives were finally extracted through the integrated processing of the adjectives with similar meaning and a close distance. Through the cluster analysis, the hierarchy of the clothing material images was examined. The clothing material images were classified into 12 primary sub-clusters such as ‘feminine', ‘warm', ‘neat', ‘classical', ‘pastoral.' ‘casual', ‘modern'. ‘ambiguous', ‘primitive', masculine', ‘abundant', and ‘arranged'. The dimensions evaluating the clothing material images were also developed using the multi-dimensional scaling method. A 4-dimensions and 8-axes system was established, which is composed of ‘masculine-feminine', ‘new-old', ‘casual-classical', and ‘ambiguous-arranged' images.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.20
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• pp.9-22
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• 2007

Three kinds of natural pesticides extracted from plants which are being sold in the Korean markets, were estimated effects on materials of art of museum. Tested samples were 1) silk fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gallut(copperas post mordancy), gardenia, turmeric, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+amur cork tree, indigo+sappanwood) 2) cotton fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gardenia, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+sappanwood) 3) undyed ramie fabric 4) Korean papers : undyed, dyed(sappanwood, indigo, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower) 5) pigments : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white 6) painted plates : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white. Conditions of tests were that after samples were exposed to 10 times of promoted concentration for 9 months in relative humidity $55{\pm}1%$ and temperature $20{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, they were compared with standards. Items of estimation were color difference(${\Delta}E^*$) and tenacity. After exposure to pesticides, undyed silk cotton ramie fabrics and Korean papers were not nearly changed in their colors, but colors of most of dyed samples were clearly changed by pesticides except for partial samples(acorn- and madder-dyed fabrics etc, gardenia-dyed samples). Especially changes of colors of turmeric-dyed silk fabrics were most distinct. And colors of pigments and painted plates containing lead, copper, arsenic, mercury and vegetable pigments, were clearly changed. Tenacities of yams of undyed silk fabrics were not nearly changed and undyed cotton fabrics were a little reduced as compared with standards. But tenacities of yams of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were clearly reduced or increased as compared with standards. Especially, madder-dyed silk fabrics were increased 10% or more and indigo-dyed silk fabrics were reduced 10% or less in all pesticides. Also madder- and sappanwood(alum post mordancy)-dyed cotton fabrics were increased 10% or more in all pesticides.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.25-34
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• 1996

Diphenyl ethanolamidophosphate(DPEAD) was synthesized for the purpose of developing a new flame retardant for cotton fabric. As the intermediate material was used diphenyl chlorophosphate(DPCP) and it was synthesized by using phosphorus oxychloride and phenol as the starting materials. The final product DPEAP was obtained by the reaction of DPCP and ethanolamine. The flame retardancy of cotton fabrics treated by DPEAP through pad-dry-cure(PDC) process was examined at various conditions. The physical property change of the DPEAP treated cotton fabrics were investigated by examining the drape stiffness, the wrinkle recovery, and the tensile strength. The results are summarized as follows: (1) DPEAP has shown excellent flame retardancy on cotton fabrics in comparison to other flame retardants for cotton fabrics available commercially. (2) The optimal condition for PDC process found was that the curing temperature was 16$0^{\circ}C$, the DPEAP concentration was 10%, the catalyst $({NH_{4})_{2}HPO_{4}$ concentration was 7.0%, and the fixing agent hexamethylol melamine (HMM)/DPEAP weight ratio was 1/8. (3) The wrinkle recovery of the processed fabrics increased with increasing DPEAP concentration. (4) The drape stiffness of the cotton fabrics treated by DPEAP have shown essentially no change until increasing DPEAP concentration to 15 %, however DPEAP concentration exceeds 20% the drape stiffness increased drastically with increasing DPEAP concentration. When DPEAP concentration is kept constant the drape stiffness increased with increasing $({NH_{4})_{2}HPO_{4}$ concentration and HMM/DPEAP weight ratio. (5) The tensile strength of the processed fabrics was lower than that of untreated fabrics, but the tensile strength retention increased with increasing DPEAP concentration.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.82-95
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• 2009

The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.9-15
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• 1982

This study was conducted to examine the relation between the clothing materials and the garment's ease under wearing condition. Wearing test of slacks in the same pattern which were made of 3 woven fabrics and 1 knitted fabric have teen carried out. Subjects were 5 female students. Some physical properties of these fabrics were investigated. The following results were obtained. 1, By analysis variance with the results of sensory test which was tested by paired com-parison method, it was obtained that the effect of materials on the garment's ease were significant at the $1\%$ level on every part of stacks and posture of subject. It indicates that there is a difference of materials from materials in garment's ease. 2. Significant at the $5\%$ level among the materials. Jersey and Jean were looser than the other two materials. Clothing materials have considerable effect on the garment's ease of slacks, therefore it was noticed that the ease of slacks must have considered the clothing materials. It is more necessary in working dress. 3. Elastic recovery of width was more contributive to garment's ease of slacks than any other physical properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.676-682
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• 2010

Superior hydrophilic properties will allow varieties of polyester(PET) fiber materials, fabrics and industrial materials a broader scope of use. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of water-absorbent softener treatment on the end-use properties and the hand of polyester knitted fabrics. Two different fabrics were knitted for the summer ladies' outwear; PET jersey and PET mesh. Variables were softner treatment and stitch type(jersey and mesh). Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(T.H.V.) was calculated according to the KN-304 Summer. Both water-absorbent softner treatment and stitch types affected mechanical properties and hand values of PET fabrics. Mesh were thicker than single jersey stitch. As they became thicker, tensile, shear, and compressional energy increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction of mesh stitch was larger than that of single jersey stitch. The coefficient of friction and the mean deviation of surface roughness were decreased by softener treatment. After softner treatment KOSHI and SHARI of the both PET jersey and PET mesh decreased. However, FUKURAMI values of PET jersey increased and that of PET mesh decreased. The T.H.V. of the treated PET jersey was lower than that of the untreated one, while the T.H.V. of the treated PET mesh was higher than that of the untreated one. Overall T.H.V. of the single jersey was better than that of the mesh before and after softner treatment.