• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.40-47
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• 2003

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of Tencel denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis. The subjective hand and the preference of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated using the developed scale. The factors affecting consumers taste for Tencel denim fabrics were analyzed by statistics using SAS program. Also, the effects of cellulase treatment on the properties of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated by the subjective hand measurements. The results are as follows: As the weight loss increased. fabrics were evaluated as finer, smoother, softer, warmer, more refined (surface properties), more compact and weaker (durability), more flexible, flossier, lighter, softer, thinner (sense of weight), more elastic, and less wrinkly (shape recovery). Fabrics were evaluated to have the dry touch regardless to the rate of weight loss (moisture properties). Overall hand preference of Tencel denim fabrics was in the side of not preferred. Hand of Tencel fabrics seems not to appeal to Korean people. Color preferences were not significantly different among five groups. The correlations between subjective hand and preference showed that fine, smooth, flexible, warm, refined, loose, soft, dry touches were preferred in Tencel denim fabrics.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.41-52
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• 2000

한·미 문화간 비교를 통하여 직물의 소리와 촉감이 주관적 감각에 미치는 영향을 고찰하고자 한국인과 미국인 각각 30명을 대상으로 의미분별척도에 의하여 서로 다른 8개 직물 소리의 주관적 감각(부드러움, 시끄러움, 유쾌함, 날카로움, 맑음, 거친, 높음)과 촉감의 주관적 감각 (딱딱함, 매끄러움, 성김, 시원함, 유연함, 까실거림, 무게, 두께)을 측정하였다. 직물 소리의 파라미터로 LPT(level pressure of total sound)와 Δf (frequency differences)를 계산하고, KES (Kawabata Evaluation System)을 이용하여 직물의 역학적 성질을 측정하였다. 직물의 소리에 대하여 ‘부드러움’의 점수가 높고 ‘시끄러움’과 ‘날카로움’, ‘거침’의 점수가 낮은 직물들이 주관적으로 유쾌하게 느껴지는 것으로 나타났다. 직물에 따른 소리의 시끄러움과 날카로움, 높음에 대한 주관적 감각은 한·미 간에 유사한 경향을 보였으나, 한국인은 미국인보다 모직물의 소리에 대하여 ‘부드러움’과 ‘유쾌함’의 점수가 높고, ‘거침’의 점수가 낮았으며, ‘맑음’에 대한 직물별 점수가 다양하였다. 직물의 촉감은 직물에 따른 차이가 더 다양하게 나타났다. ‘딱딱함’과 ‘매끄러움’의 직물 별 감각은 한 ·미 간에 유사한 경향을 보였는데, 한국인은 대체로 미국인보다 ‘성금’과 ‘까실거림’을 낮게, ‘시원함’을 높게 평가하였다. 직물 소리의 파라미터인 LPT와 ΔL이 양국인의 소리 감각에 영향을 미쳤는데, 한국인의 감각은 주로 LPT가, 미국인의 감각은 LPT와 ΔL이 함께 영향을 미치는 회귀식이 성립하였다. 촉감에서 ‘딱딱함’과 ‘매끄러움’, ‘유연함’, ‘까실거림’에 한·미 모두 표면 거칠기가 영향을 미쳤는데, 한국인의 촉감에 대한 회귀식이 더 많이 성립하였고 R2가 높게 나타났다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.19-26
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• 2020

The previous study reported that the quaternary copolymer of MMA, BA, MAA, and NEA was expected to be a good monomer composition for a binder polymer with good rubbing fastness for digital textile printing(DTP) pigment ink. However, the rubbing fastness of the dyed fabric with the quaternary copolymer binder containing pigment ink is not enough to be commercially used. Therefore, this study aims to optimize MMA:BA:MAA:NEA composition for improved rubbing fastness. And the binder polymer with various MMA:BA:MAA:NEA compositions were synthesized using miniemulsion polymerization. The particle size, viscosity, molecular weight, and Tg of the synthesized binder were evaluated. And the color strength and rubbing fastness of the black pigment ink dyed cotton fabrics with the prepared binders were also evaluated. Then, the stiffness of undyed and dyed cotton fabrics were evaluated to investigate the changes in touch as the binder structure changes.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2011

Artificial silk that called "Ponggi (Gyeongsangbukdo, Korea) In-Gyeun" in Korea is entirely viscose rayon of which made main component refined larches and cotton linter. It also is natural fabrics with light weight, cool texture, free from the body and well ventilation property, so, feel good touch during the wearing. In addition, it often used as summer cloth and bedding because it has good absorbancy to perspiration and antistatic. The "Hanji", made of paper mulberry, is known as useful material for human. In this research focused on dyeability of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.(called as "Hwangchil") Especially, the results were in comparison to the dyeing properties of Hwangchil with liquid/solid fermentation or not. As the results, The ${\Delta}E$ difference was dominated when the fabric dyed with fermentation by solid state at $60^{\circ}C$. And it was confirmed that the pH of fermented dye had an important influence in the coloration.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.72-86
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• 2022

Volume-up pads are the most common and easiest way to make women with small breasts beautiful. In this study, to develop a volume-up brassiere pad with excellent wearing effects and appearance, 24 different types of volume-up pads commercially available in the online market were investigated and then 11 types were purchased. Among these eleven types, four pads (PAD1, PAD2, PAD3, PAD4) with distinct shapes and materials were selected through a pre-test. They were compared to the newly developed pad for research (PAD5). The results of the study follow. The results of evaluating appearance when wearing the developed pad (PAD5) were significantly higher than that of other pads, and the appearance evaluation score for the full-cup type pad was excellent. In the wearing satisfaction evaluation result, PAD5 showed generally excellent evaluation scores, and in the case of the touch, preference for the fabric material was higher than that of the silicon pad. In the evaluation of motion adaptability, the developed PAD5 showed generally excellent evaluation scores in all movements, indicating that the full-cup type pads had better motion adaptability than the partial-type pads.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to study the cause of obstruction in various knit pattern structures by understanding the needs of the customers, and to develop knitted fabric goods that satisfy the individual taste of consumers and that reflecting the latest fashions. Actual conditions of the manufacturer's designing processes must be examined. In addition, a comparison analysis of fashion sensibilities and preferences between producers and consumers had been made in order to study developing knit pattern structures. Questionnaires and interviews had been used as research methods. The research involved two groups: one group consisted of 57 producers, which included designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, while the other group consisted of 74 consumers, which included students with knitted fabric design as their major and those who have working knowledge of knitted fabrics. For a more accurate evaluation, 28 out of 150 patterns have been selected through a preliminary study conducted by 24 designers. On the 28 knit patterns, a sensibility evaluation had been made through the use of the sense of sight and sense of touch, which was followed by a frequency analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: the fashion sensibility evaluation on knit patterns showed that structures, such as racking II or lace II, are typically elegant ('elegance'), while structures, such as links I or racking I, are typically 'active.' Furthermore, a 'country' image was displayed in structures such as cable I, cable II, and miss II. Links I appeared as 'sophisticated'. Miss I and milano were said to have 'modem' images. Lace II was regarded as 'ethnic', while racking II was said to have a 'romantic' image. 2:1 rib and milano were generally thought to be manly ('manish'). The fashion sensibility scale for each knit pattern has been made based on the above results. Based on producer and consumer responses, the sensibility evaluation on knit pattern structures showed that the two groups had similar preferences in knit pattern structures. Therefore, the fashion sensibility scale developed in this study can be used as a basic data for structure development when designing knitted fabric goods.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.66-71
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• 1986

The studies were carried out to screen the optimum conditions for enzymatic degumming of raw silk yarn and silk fabric by use of Alkalase, a protease produced by Bacteria, comparing with Papain and Trypsin representing natural proteolytic enzymes. 1. The optimum temperature and acidity of degumming solution were 70$^{\circ}C$, pH 5-6 for Papain degumming, 40$^{\circ}C$, pH 8 for Trypsin and 50-60$^{\circ}C$ pH 8-9 for Alkalase. 2. By increasing the Alkalase concentration in the range of 0.6 to 1.0 gram per liter, the time for enzymatic degumming of silk yarn could be reduced by 40 minutes. 3. In degumming of silk yarn by Alkalase, the pretreatment of 95$^{\circ}C$, 10 minutes at 0.1% sodium bicarbonate solution or posttreatent of 80$^{\circ}C$, 20 minutes at 2% (o.w.f.) sodium silicate solution improved the efficiency of enzymatic degumming, as compared to that of nontreatment. 4. The breaking strength, elongation and Lousiness results of enzymatically degummed silk yarn were apt to be improved more than those of soap-degummed one. 5. When the pretreatment of alkaline solution was done with over 20% of degumming ratio, the enzymatic degumming efficiency of both Havutae and Crepe de chine could be reached to the same level with those of soap-soda degummed. 6. As the pretreated silk fabric with 20% of degumming ratio was under action of three proteases, respectively, the deumming efficiency of Havutae and Crepe de chine were completed by Alkalase more than by Papain or Trpysin. 7. The stiffness of enzymatically degummed Crepe de chine was not only reduced by 17% more than that of soap-soda degummed one but also the Drape coefficient was decreased in enzymatically degummed fabrics, which was closely related with the soft touch of degummed fabrics.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.44-50
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• 1984

The effects of sodium pyrophosphate, sodium tripolyphosposphate and ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid as a degumming aid reagent were investigated under the conditions of underground water and dimineralized water for the scouring water sources. The changes of water qualities by adding the condensed sodium phosphates and the physical properties of scoured silk fabric were examined, respectively. 1. The water hardness of underground water was decreased by adding the condensed sodium phosphates and it was further reduced according to the increasing temperature. The water hardness reducing power of sodium pyrophosphate was a little stronger than that of sodium tripolyphosphate. 2. The sodium silicate as an alkaline reagant for scouring decreased the water hardness, but the sodium carbonate increased it in the underground water. 3. The pH value of 0.4% soap and 0.25% sodium silicate mixed solution after boiling was. 9.80, but it was leveled upto 9.90 by adding 0.05% sodium pyrophosphate and upto 9.95 by 0.02% ehtylene diamine tetraacetic acid, respectively. 4. The masking action of Fe$\^$3+/ ions dissolved in the scouring water was more remarkable by ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid than by the condensed sodium phosphates. Of the condensations, sodium tripolyphosphate was more effective than sodium pyrophosphate in the action. 5. Genrally, the dimineralized water scouring increased the boil-off ratio with reducing the flexural rigidity of fabric which was negatively related with the favorablility of hand-touch more than the underground one did. 6. Under the underground water scouring, the addition of ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid increased the boil-of ratio and compressive elasticity of fabric with reducing the flexural rigidity more than that of the condensed sodium phosphates did. 7 The additions of sodium tripolyphosphate and ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid reduced the flexural rigidity of fabric with raising the boil-off ratio even in the dimineralized water scouring, but there was no sifnificant difference between both of them.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.230-250
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• 2013

possessed by Dong-A University Museum is designated as Treasure No. 595, and has been known for a more exquisite, delicate and realistic expression and a colorful three-dimensional structure compared to the 'grass and insect painting' work and its value in art history. However, it has not been analyzed and studied in fabric craft despite it being an embroidered work. This study used scientific devices to examine and analyze the Screen's fabric, thread colors, and embroidery techniques to clarify its patterns and fabric craft characteristics for its value in the history of fabric craft. As a result, consists of eight sides and its subject matters and composition are similar to those of the general paintings of grass and insects. The patterns on each side of the 'grass and insect painting' include cucumber, cockscomb, day lily, balsam pear, gillyflower, watermelon, eggplant, and chrysanthemums from the first side. Among these flowers, the balsam pear is a special material not found in the existing paintings of grass and insect. The eighth side only has the chrysanthemums with no insects and reptiles, making it different from the typical forms of the paintings of grass and insect. The fabric of the Screen uses black that is not seen in other decorative embroideries to emphasize and maximize various colors of threads. The fabric used the weave structure of 5-end satin called Gong Dan [non-patterned satin]. The threads used extremely slightly twisted threads that are incidentally twisted. Some threads use one color, while other threads use two or mixed colors in combination for three-dimensional expressions. Because the threads are severely deterioration and faded, it is impossible to know the original colors, but the most frequently used colors are yellow to green and other colors remaining relatively prominently are blue, grown, and violet. The colors of day lily, gillyflower, and strawberries are currently remaining as reddish yellow, but it is anticipated that they were originally orange and red considering the existing paintings of grass and insects. The embroidery technique was mostly surface satin stitch to fill the surfaces. This shows the traditional women's wisdom to reduce the waste of color threads. Satin stitch is a relatively simple embroidery technique for decorating a surface, but it uses various color threads and divides the surfaces for combined vertical, horizontal, and diagonal stitches or for the combination of long and short stitches for various textures and the sense of volume. The bodies of insects use the combination of buttonhole stitch, outline stitch, and satin stitch for three-dimensional expressions, but the use of buttonhole stitch is particularly noticeable. In addition to that, decorative stitches were used to give volume to the leaves and surface pine needle stitches were done on the scouring rush to add more realistic texture. Decorative stitches were added on top of gillyflower, strawberries, and cucumbers for a more delicate touch. is valuable in the history of paintings and art and bears great importance in the history of Korean embroidery as it uses outstanding technique and colors of Korea to express the Shin Sa-im-dang's 'Grass and Insect Painting'.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.59-69
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• 2016

This study aimed to understand the importance of applying finishing materials into interior space, and to add meaning to the creation of functional space, associated interior finishing materials with brain science. To achieve this purpose, brainwave(EEG) experiment was conducted. The brainwave appearing when sensing the surface of interior finishing materials with hands was measured. The locations of the electrode were FP1, FP2, F3, F4, C3, C4, P3, P4, O1, O2, F7, F8, T3, T4, T5, T6, CZ, FZ, and PZ and in addition to these, AFZ was added. Eight(8) kinds of finishing materials: metallic material, film paper, lumbar, stone, glass, silk wallpaper, fabric, and paint were used to measure '${\alpha}$-wave against ${\beta}$ wave.' As a result, it was found that the most activated finishing material in term of relaxation was film paper, followed by metallic, glass, paint, fabric, stone, lumbar, and silk wallpaper. To explain in light of this, (1) '${\alpha}$-wave against ${\beta}$ wave' was the most activated at ch1-FP1 and ch2-FP2, and at ch17-AFZ and ch19-FZ, which indicated that metopic-prefrontal lobe showed the highest activation in relaxation. Film paper, among the finishing materials, showed the highest increase in relaxation. (2) In general, '${\alpha}$-wave against ${\beta}$ wave' relaxation was inhibited at ch13-T3 and ch14-T4, and at ch15-T5 and ch16-T6 and the arousal in the temporal lobe was prominent. Silk wallpaper, among the finishing materials, showed the highest arounsal effect. As a result of measuring the superficial touch on the silk wallpaper, which was regarded as the most rough material among the eight finishing materials, the arousal effect of ${\alpha}$-wave against ${\beta}$-wave, among the brainwave characteristics, was found to be the highest. (3) to judge from the scope of this experiment regarding the tactile sensation over the finishing materials, it is considered that the brainwave reaction sometimes appeared contrastive depending on whether the surface was smooth or rough and there also appeared a difference in relaxation and arousal reaction of the brainwave depending on whether the surface was hot or cold, but the sensation on the surface texture was often evaluated differently depending on who you were. For this reason, this study has some limitations.