• Fire Science and Engineering
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.17-23
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• 2016

Membrane structures can be used to create diverse lightweight structural forms using ductile membranes made of coated fabric. Using membrane structures, it is possible to construct large covered spaces relatively quickly and economically, and hence, they are being applied within various applications. The structures are light-weight, transparent, flexible in their application, economical and easy to maintain, and as such, their usage is being expanded. However, despite their prevalence, the standard for membrane material performance in terms of fire safety is still inadequate, and the development of membrane materials with excellent flame resistance performance is being demanded. This study determined flame resistance performance of architectural membranes, including PTFE, PVDF, PVF and ETFE film membranes, through flammability testing and incombustibility testing.

• Mycobiology
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.178-183
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• 2017

Diabetes mellitus is a chronic disorder which affects millions of population worldwide. Global estimates published in 2010 reported the world diabetic prevalence as 6.4%, affecting 285 million adults. Foot ulceration and wound infection are major forms of disabilities arising from diabetic diseases. This study was aimed to develop a natural antimicrobial finishing on medical grade textile that meets American Association of Textiles Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) standard. The textile samples were finished with the ethanolic extract of Penicillium amestolkiae elv609, an endophytic fungus isolated from Orthosiphon stamineus Benth (common name: cat's whiskers). Endophyte is defined as microorganism that reside in the living plant tissue, without causing apparent disease symptom to the host. The antimicrobial efficacy of the ethanolic extract of P. minioluteum was tested on clinical pathogens isolated from diabetic wound. The extract exhibited significant inhibitory activity against 4 bacteria and 1 yeast with the minimal inhibitory concentration ranged from 6.25 to 12.5 mg/mL. The results indicate different susceptibility levels of the test microorganism to the ethanolic extract. However, the killing activity of the extract was concentration-dependent. The finished medical textile showed excellent antimicrobial efficacy on AATCC test assays. All the microbial cultures treated with the textile sample displayed a growth reduction of 99.9% on Hoheinstein Challenge Test. The wash durability of the finished textile was found good even after 50 washes with commercial detergent. Besides, the gas chromatography mass spectrometry analysis showed that 6-octadecenoic acid and diethyl phthalate were the main bioactive constituents of the extract. In conclusion, the developed medical textile showed good antimicrobial efficacy on laboratory tests. This work can be extended to in vivo trials for developing healthcare textile products for antimicrobial applications.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.258-268
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider incense culture found in costume and life in forms of carrying and decoration. Here, incense for carrying and decoration is classified into two cases, using it as a costume accessory and life space. Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul, Hyangdae and Hyangseonchu were costume accessories. Hyangjumony was not only used for the royal palanguin, but also for bedroom. When Poetic Literature, and other ancient publications were reviewed in regard to incense for carrying and decoration, it was estimated that incense began to be carried for the first time before the late period of Shilla(9C). In addition, it was found that incense was not just a personal taste, but one of important gifts exchanged between states, envoys of different nations and between sovereign and subject and that incense was a necessary costume accessory for men. Types of incense for carrying and decoration used in this nation are classified into Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul and Hyangseonchu. Hyangjumony is a fabric pouch that contains incense. Hyangnorigae is Norigae whose main material is incense. Hyangjul is a string to which incense is hanged. Hyangseonchu is Seonchu whose main material is incense. Incense for carrying and decoration was based on five colors that symbolize cosmic order and harmony, of which red and purple were mostly used. Red strongly suggests expelling Yin with Yang, or exorcism. The color gives a strong impression, so it was often used to make a carried incense more decorating. Main materials of incense for carrying and decoration were gold, silver, precious stone and horsehair. They are different in characteristics, but were used appropriately for incense fragrance and decoration. Patterns mainly used for the incense had shapes of animal, plant, sipjangsaeng and letter. These were all auspicious patterns that symbolize human wishes and desires, especially individual and family happiness.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.91-116
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• 2021

India has had a rich and diverse textile tradition since the 3rd millennium BCE. The origin of Indian textiles can be traced back to the Harappan period. Owing to the hot and humid climate in most parts of India, cotton has remained India's favourite choice of fabric for normal use. Thus, India is supposed to be the first nation to have grown, woven, and patterned cotton fabrics. Moreover, India is one of the leading cotton-growing countries in the world. The earliest occurrence of cotton thread in India is roughly datable to 4000 BCE and of dyed fabrics to about 2500 BCE. Large numbers of needles and spindle-whorls found in Harappa and other early historic sites in India reveal the prosperous state of textile production and its trade in the early period. The textile producers used a wide range of skills to process raw materials and make regionally idiosyncratic dyes, weaves, prints, and embroideries. Additionally, the silk from wild indigenous forms of silkworms was known in the Indian sub-continent roughly contemporary with the earliest clear archaeological evidence for silk in China. The analysis of thread fragments found inside a copper bangle and ornament from Harappa and steatite beads from Chanhu-daro, have yielded silk fibers dating to 2500-2000 BCE. Apart from other products, cotton and silk textiles were important export materials from India right from the Harappan period. Actually, the sea-borne trade had played an important role in the economic growth and prosperity of the Harappan civilization. Several ancient seaports in the entire coastline of India played a vital role in the maritime trade during the Harappan period and cotton and silk textiles of Indian origin have been found in various countries. The contemporary writings and epigraphy have also attested to the vast maritime trade network of India and the export of textile materials. The paper discusses in detail the origin and development of cotton and silk textile production in India through the ages and its role in maritime trade networks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.183-203
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• 1998

The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

• Archives of design research
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.231-241
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• 1999

This study propose to analyze the design method and the form elements of museums, of works by Richard Meier, and through the analysis, spacial characteristics of museums will be understood. The museum works of Richard Meier, as an exhibition space, not only display the art works efficiently, but they also offer visitors the opportunity to experience the art of architecture, as a cultural space. Richard Meier, when working on the projects, has utilized the design methods and the architectural language, learned from Mies van der Rohe and Le Corbusier, resourcefully. Having the structural grid as basis, the rational rectangular forms were intended for exhibition space, while the circular and partial circular forms of geometry were utilized in formative space. This was able to maintain the balance between functional and formative space. In the museums of his works, the ramp and the glass wall separated from the structure become very important means of expression. The ramps, not only make people to enjoy the interior and exterior of museum, but also able them to see the works of art from different distances and angles repeatedly and the large glass wall reveals the various shapes of interior to exterior. In comparing with the design method and language of two masters mentioned, the design principles and elements, developed by Meier were applied to the site plans, exhibition space planning and elevations to manifest its originality. The design concept, derived from the urban fabric and historical buildings around, gave harmony to the museum with its surroundings, and employing the deformed axis brought variation and the effect of diversion to the site plan. The exhibition space is much vitalized by the well arrangement of various exhibition fixtures in the museum. The exhibion fixtures, which the partitions, shelves, miches, and stages were put together in flexibility, play multiple roles as partitions dividing spaces, as furniture displaying art works, and as elements creating forms. The systematically arranged fixtures, also produce several visual axes and centers, which have visitors appreciate the works of art in various perspectives, hence create a unique environment.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.242-253
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• 2020

Six ornamental metal quiver fittings were excavated from stone chamber No.1 of the ancient tombs of Jeongchon, Bokam-ri, Naju. The ornamental quiver fittings are metal, but the body of the quiver was made of organic material, so that it corroded and disappeared in the burial environment. The ornamental metal quiver fittings were made in pairs, and decorated one quiver according to the location they were found in and their forms. The ornamental metal quiver fitting can be divided into two types: A band style ornament (帶輪狀金具) which decorates the arrow pouch, and a board style ornament (板狀金具) which decorates the board connecting the waist belt. Two ornamental metal quiver fittings excavated from wooden coffin 2 of stone chamber No.1, were made in the band style, while the ornamental metal quiver fittings from southeast of stone chamber No.1 were identified as two boardstyle ornaments and two band-style ornaments for what was presumed to be belt loops. Material analysis of the ornamental metal quiver fittings shows that they are made of a gilt bronze plate attached to an iron plate, and the surface is marked with a speck of chisel to make lines and patterns. Chemical composition analysis (XRF) established that 24~40wt% Au and 50~93wt% Cu were detected on the gold surface, and it was confirmed that bronze corrosion had taken place on the gilt surface. SEM-EDS analysis of the gold plating layer identified a working line for glossing, and 7~9wt% Hg and an amalgam of gilt layers was detected, confirming the amalgam gilding. CT and FT-IR analysis established that the band style was double-layered with silk fabric under the iron plate, and there was also a lacquer piece underneath. The band-style ornaments have two layers of silk under the iron plate, along with lacquer pieces. Adding the fabric to the arrow pouch increases adhesion and decorative value. It is assumed that the lacquer pieces indicate that the surface of the lacquered arrow pouch had fallen together with the ornaments. On the other hand, the board-style ornaments have a thick layer of organic matter under the iron plate, but this is difficult to identify and appears to be a remnant of the quiver board. The characteristics of these ornamental metal quiver fittings were similar in Baekje, Silla, and Gaya cultures from the late 4th to the late 5th centuries, and enable us to identify the art of ancient gold craftwork at that time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.29-44
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• 2013

This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.

• Journal of the Korean Geotechnical Society
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.57-65
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• 2005

Geotextile have been used for the past 30 years for various types of containers, such as small sandbag, 3-D fabric forms and aggregate filled gabion etc. While they are mainly used for flood and water control, they are also used against beach erosion fir shore protection. Especially, large-sized geotextile tube structures are used in various innovative coastal systems involving breakwaters. This paper presents the hydrodynamic behavior of geotextile tubes based on the results of hydraulic model tests. These tube are generally about 1.0 m to 2.0 m in diameter, thou띤 they can be sized for any application. The tubes can be used solely, or stacked to add greater height and usability. Stacked geotextile tubes will be created by adding the height necessary for some breakwaters and embankment, therefore increasing the usability of geotextile tubes. The hydraulic model test was conducted as structural condition and wave conditions. Structural condition is installation direction to the wave (perpendicular and 45$^{circ}$$), and wave condition is varied with the significant wave height ranging from 3.0 m to 6.0 m. Compared with previous test result, the stacked geotextile tube is more stable against wave attack than single tube. Also, the case of none-water depth above crest is more stable than 0.5H of water depth above crest. The incline installed stacked tube is more effective for wave adsorption.