• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.53-61
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• 1998

The absorptions of ultraviolet rays of benzophenone derivatives were investigated in terms of the position of substituent, especially hydroxyl group. When the derivatives were added to the aqueous solution of Rhodamin B, which has very low light-fastness, all of them delayed the photofading of Rhodamin B solution. But on the fabrics, only the derivatives with the hydroxyl group at 2-position showed the good ability of ultraviolet rays absorption. The benzophenone derivatives absorb ultraviolet rays to form a hydrogen bond between hydroxyl group and carbonyl group, and return to their original structure by releasing heat energy. In solution, the derivatives can form a intermolecular hydrogen bond, and absorb the ultraviolet rays. But on the fabric, the intermolecular hydrogen bond is impossible, only hydroxyl group of 2-position forms a intramolecular hydrogen bond, and that makes the derivatives on the fabric absorb ultraviolet rays.

• 감성과학
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.25-34
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• 2015

본 연구에서는 전도성 직물을 기반으로 동작 센서로 구현하여 팔의 굽힘, 폄 동작에 따른 센서의 전기저항의 변화를 측정, 분석함으로써 관절 동작을 효과적으로 측정 할 수 있는 직물 센서의 요건을 탐색하였다. 이를 위해 두 가지 편직물인 'L'직물과 'W'직물 양면에 Single Wall Carbon Nano-Tube(SWCNT) 코팅을 한 후 이를 다양한 형태로 후가공하여 직물 센서를 개발하고 암 밴드에 부착하였다. 직물 센서는 코팅용 바탕 직물의 종류(2가지), 센서의 부착 방법(2가지), 센서의 layer 수(2가지), 센서의 길이(3가지), 센서의 너비(2가지)의 총 48개로 구성되었다. Con-Trex MJ에 48개의 암 밴드를 입힌 인체 모형 팔을 대상으로 직물 동작 센서의 성능을 평가하였다. 인체 모형 팔에 입혀진 총 48개의 암 밴드 각각에 대해서 frequency: 0.5Hz, ROM: $20^{\circ}{\sim}120^{\circ}$ 에서 굽힘과 폄 동작을 반복하도록 조정하였고, 48개 각 사례 당 세 세트(set)씩 반복 측정한 전압값을 기록하였다. 전압값을 peak-to-peak voltage(Vp-p)의 base line의 균일성, 동일 세트 내 Vp-p의 균일성, 세 세트 간의 Vp-p의 균일성을 기준으로 평가하고 분석한 결과, SWCNT 코팅된 'L' 직물을 두 겹으로 구성하여 열고정 방식으로 부착한 $50{\times}5mm$, $50{\times}10mm$, $100{\times}10mm$ 크기의 직물 센서와, SWCNT 코팅된 'W' 직물을 두 겹으로 구성하고 열고정 방식으로 부착한 $50{\times}10mm$ 크기의 직물 센서가 전체 변화율 5%이내의 가장 균일하고 안정적인 신호값을 나타내었다. 이상의 연구 결과를 통해 SWCNT 코팅 소재를 다양한 형태로 가공해 직물 센서로 구현했을 때 인체의 사지 동작을 측정할 수 있는 센서로서 적합함을 확인하였고, 최적의 센서 형태를 규명하였다.

• 복식
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• 제64권2호
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• pp.126-134
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• 2014

This study studied female Hanbok that appeared in Korean movies in different periods, and investigated the changes and flow of the Hanbok in the movies based on the design and the form. Research scope is limited to Hanbok in Korean movies released between 1950' and 1980', and in order to study Hanbok in movies, snapshots of Korean movies for each period are used. Pictures are sourced from the Korean movie database, and forms and colors of Hanbok in the pictures are classified into 7 categories. Based on this, characteristics, changes and flow of Hanbok for each period are studied. Based on this, by investigating the Hanbok in Korean movies from silhouette and design perspectives and comparing each period, it is found that the following changes have been made: From 1950' to 1980', generally Min Jeogori (Normal Korean traditional jacket) had a higher rate. Up to early 1960', wide collar and collar strip were trends, but from 70' to 80', they have been remarkably narrowed. After liberation, ease and functional elements of western clothing were accepted. From 1950' to 80', generally wide and round shape sleeve were used. Also, from 50' to 80', normally skirt and Jeogori had the same color and fabric. Lastly. as Hanbok with western style fabric, rather than traditional Hanbok fabric was increasing, Hanbok with variously patterned fabric was shown. The lack of colored pictures led of limited research materials, and so a more accurate and sophisticated research on material and design was not possible, However, it is meaningful that this study has investigated changes and flow of Hanbok in modern Korean movies.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.125-139
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• 2020

The fashion industry that perceived the severity of environmental pollution, has sought various methods of sustainable fashion. However, most of the businesses paid attention to the development of materials using industrial waste, or vegan material. Thus, this study aims to present the methods for improvement in creativity for inversely developing the design from patterns and present new approaches by applying the contrarian development of proto to class under the limited condition of material concerning general design, selection of material, and production of sample. In the case of three student teams enrolled in the first semester of the second year, the fabric and used clothing donated by industry were used as material. The whole cut for cutting a single fabric in connected state, and Zero Wastes Design within a rectangular frame of fabric, upcycling of used clothes, and cutting out of Geometric Form are suggested. The team(A) produced a zero-wastes coat and whole-cut Pancho that could be variously represented. The team(B) produced two kinds of asymmetric dress by utilizing used check-patterned shirts through upcycling. The team(C) utilized the fabric in geometric forms such as rectangle, trapezoid, and atypical figure by drawing design within donated fabrics. The items were a dress, blouse, and skirt. Consequently, an opportunity for both academia and industry to present more concrete methods for sustainable fashion and deeply perceive the sustainable fashion is presented along with novel methods for creation by carrying out the composition of pattern and design at the same time.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.147-153
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• 2021

Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.13-23
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• 2004

To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.555-563
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• 2010

This research has attempted for a categorization by contemplating on concepts and characteristics of eco fashion design through analysis of precedent studies and to study the design characteristics, images, and internal values through keyword and design codes which appeared in the precedent studies. The subject of analysis was mostly focused on the theses published in international and domestic academic journals from 1990s to September 2009. The design characteristics of each eco fashion design were analyzed by classifying by form, detail, color, fabric and pattern. Method of analysis did content analysis. The results of the research can be summarized as follows. First of all, types of eco fashion design were human-ecology design, natural-ecology design, and social-ecology design. Secondly, the human-ecology design was presented a natural and comfortable form, color of the nature, and functional and new materials. The natural-ecology design was presented a natural silhouette, natural colors, and natural fiber. The social-ecology design were used a loose silhouette and over-size forms, natural colors, and recycled materials and bio fabric. Thirdly, the images per type of eco fashion design were Zen, sportive, natural, and modern image. And the internal values were presented efficiency, health-orientation, naturalness, and continuity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.19-29
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate Renaissance wall-covering fabrics through Flemish paintings, that provides the details of the origin and development of background of modern wallcovering. The methods of the study are as follows. First, the background of textile development of Flanders in the 14^th to 16^th centuries were examined through a prior study. Second, the shape and use of wallcoverings in paintings painted during that time were analyzed and the process of changing to modern forms was studied. The residential environment with many stone buildings in relatively humid and cold weather created a need for decorative fabrics. Back then, the wool and flax fabric were not allowed to be worn on the body, so the materials were used for the development of interior fabrics. The characteristics of wall covering in Flemish paint can be summarized with movable, allegory, and decoration. Movable stems from the arrival of the emerging aristocrats of Flanders, who had enormous commercial trade and carried decorative fabrics; the mobility has become an allegory in reality as the royal and aristocratic use of wall-decorated fabrics is the symbol of authority. In addition, unlike Italy, where silk was procured from the East, fabrics manufactured using flax and wool were not suitable for clothing in terms of religion and practicality and were used to decorate walls.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권12호
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• pp.9-18
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• 2006

A case study was conducted on the development of patient clothes designs at the Korea University Medical Center, in order to provide an example of patient clothes designs which meet the hospital identity and the demands of patients and nurses. In this study, we focused on general patient pajamas and one-piece gowns worn in the obstetrics and gynecology department. A scientific and systematic design approach consisting of the following four steps was conducted in the designing process: needs assessment, design direction establishment, design presentation, and final decision. For the first step, focused group interviews and a survey were conducted to identify the needs of the patients and nurses. According to the results of the first step, 3 fabric patterns with light, modern, rhythmic, modest and ordinary images were designed utilizing the university and hospital symbols and logotypes. Fixed forms with realistic and geometric characteristics and colors, including white, yellow, blue, grey, and pink were selected to deliver the preferred image. Each fabric pattern was made in male and female versions of the color sets. The following styles of patient clothes were made with the 3 fabric samples: general patient pajamas with a U-neckline, 9/10-length sleeves and ankle-length pants, a full-length sleeved gown with openings for breast-feeding, and a gown with a deep back-neckline and button fastening. Different sizing systems for males and females were recommended for the production.