• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.109-119
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Caseaslpinia Sappan, L. and Brazilin were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye up-take adn color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. solution was 445nm, Brazilin was 448nm. The color of bazilin solution was affected by pH 7~9. The optimum temperature to extract Caesalpinia Sappan, L. was 10$0^{\circ}C$ adn dyeing solution for 1 hour. In case mordants concentration, the most absorbance was 0.3%. In case mordanting test, the best and proper temperature to quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and the most quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was mordant treatment by Cu. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treat-ment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. After soaping treatment K/S value of pre- and post-mordanting silk was decreased and 0.1%(W/V) quantity of mordant was sufficient for treatment. In the case of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. fastness was increased by mordanting treatment. Mordants and mordanting treatment method affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed silk.

• 한국복합재료학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복합재료학회 1999년도 추계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.160-163
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• 1999

The mechanical properties and failure behaviour of carbon/phenolic composites were inverstigated by tension and compression. Carbon/phenolic composites were fabricated by infiltration of matrix into 8 harness satin woven fabric of PAN-based carbon fibers. The tensile and compressive tests were performed at 25℃ under air atmosphere and, at 400℃ and 700℃ under N₂ atmosphere. The tensile strengths of carbon/phenolic composites in with-laminar/0° warp direction were about 10 times higher than those in with-laminar/45° warp direction, which was analyzed due to a change of fracture mode from fiber pull-out by shear to tensile fracture of fibers. The fracture of carbon/phenolic composites in with-laminar/45° direction was analyzed due to delamination by buckling. Tensile and compressive strength of carbon/phenolic composites decreased to about 50% at 400℃, and to about 10% at 700℃ compared to that at room temperature. The main reason for the decrease of tensile or compressive strength with increasing temperature was analyzed due to a reduction of bond strength between fibers and matrix resulting from thermal degradation of phenolic resin.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.777-787
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• 2016

This study was carried out in order to provide useful data for planning fabrics of summer eco-friendly fashion products. The fabrics used in this study were four cellulose fibers: cotton, cotton/mulberry blended, flax, and flax/lyocell blended. Dyeing with natural indigo was carried out under three different reducing conditions (i.e., general, eclectic, and eco-friendly) that have different reducing agent and pH levels, and hydrosulfite and glucose were used as a reducing agent. The dye uptake (K/S value) of fabrics dyed with natural indigo by a reducing condition was the highest at 660nm. Regardless of the fabrics, dye uptake was the highest under the general reducing condition and the lowest under the eco-friendly reducing condition. Under different reducing conditions, the dye uptake of natural indigo fabrics with the maximum absorption wavelength indicated a difference. The colorfastness of cellulose fabrics that were dyed with natural indigo had a rate of 4 to 5 except for rubbing fastness, which indicated good colorfastness. Additionally, natural indigo-dyed cotton and flax fabrics had good antibiosis. When the color characteristics of fabrics dyed with natural indigo were measured, all of the three reducing conditions created purple blue (PB) colors, and the color characteristics of dyed fabrics by reducing condition and fabric showed significant differences.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.388-399
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of garment design, fabric type and the presence of lining on the thermal insulation value $(I_{cle}\;and\;I{cl})$ and clothing area factor $(f_{cl})$ of skirts. A standing, electrically heated thermal maninkin was used to measure the insultation value of eighty skirts-five skirt styles with eight different fabrics, with and without lining. The air temperature of the chamber was set at $22.2^{\circ}C{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ , air velocity was limited to less than 0.1 m/s, and relative humidity was approximately $50\%$. The results are as follows: 1) The Ic, values of gathered skirt and flared skirt, which had high $f_{cl}$ values, were significantly higher than those of other skirts, though the highest $I_{cle}$ value among five styles wer pegged skirt. 2) Insulation values of various skirts were more relevant with physical properties such as thickness, air permeability, and thermal transmission of the materials rather than fiber content. 3) The addition of lining made significant difference in the insulation values of skirts and the differences of gathered and flared skirt were significantly higher than those of othere types of skirts.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.1032-1042
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to measure, compare, and investigate the physical properties of rayon/cotton blend fabrics treated with cellulase and cellulase & specific degeneration silicon and to present basic data which is in development a value-added fabric. The results are as follows. The condition for the treatment of cellulase was at 55$^{\circ}C$, pH 4 and the weight loss increased as the concentration of cellulase and the treated time increased. On treatment with cellulase, the crossectional view & longitudinal view of fiber noticed remarkable crack as weight loss increased and tensile strength and elongation decreased, and pilling was enhanced remarkably. KOSHI was increased, NUMERI and FUKURAMI were decreased as weight loss increased. In the basic characteristic value of clothing wearning, shape stability and drapability were decreased, but air content was improved. On treatment with cellulase & silicon, the degree of damage in the crossectional view & longitudinal view of the fiber reduced. Tensile strength, elongation, moisture regain improved. KOSHI and FUKURAMI were reduced, NUMERI was improved rather than when it was treated with cellulase. Therefore handle was improved. In the basic characteristic value of the clothing wearing, shape stability, air content, drapability were improved.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.496-501
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• 2009

In this study, a kiwifruit-produced protease was used to improve the quality of the wool and silk fabrics. The wool and silk were treated with the actinidin from kiwifruit. Following this protease treatment, changes in the surface of a single yarn of the fabrics were observed via both an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope (SEM). In order to determine the amount of dye uptake in the fabric, changes in the K/S value of the wool and silk were measured by spectrophotometric analysis. Also, we performed a tensile strength examination to determine variation in their mechanical properties. By increasing the protease treatment time to 48h, the dyeing properties of fabrics were enhanced, and the surfaces of the single yarns of the fabrics became smoother, because of the removal of soil and scale in them. However, no mechanical changes were detected in the fabrics. Thereby, we suggest that the kiwifruit-produced actinidin treatment can improve the quality of the fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.791-799
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• 2014

For development of dyeability, the rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed rayon fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the rayon fabrics were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabrics were decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness were increased. The rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness), fukurami(fullness and softness) were increased. while Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Shari(crispness) were greately decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.39-46
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• 1997

In this study, Two types of polyester fabrics were hydrolysed with NaOH using the CDR m/c of pad-steam type and the Sofleena m/c of liquor-flow type to determine the alkali hydrolysis properties of polyester fabrics. The results were as follows: Under the same conditions, the weight loss of charmeuse was about 0.5% and 2~3% higher than that of pebble with CDR m/c and with Sofleena m/c, respectively. The weft density of pebble decreased about 14picks/inch with CDR m/c and 3picks/inch with Sofleena m/c comparing to the untreated sample at 18% of weight loss, while the weft density of charmeuse decreased about 5picks/inch with CDR m/c and 2picks/inch with Sofleena m/c at 20% of weight toss. K/S value decreased almost identically within about 11% weight loss of pebble and 8% of charmeuse processed with both CDR and Sofleena. However, in the above these weight losses, K/S value of the fabrics processed with Sofleena was higher than that of fabrics processed with CDR. The bending rigidity of warp direction of the fabrics ($2{\times}10^{-2}gf.cm^2 /cm$ higher for charmeuse and ($7{\times}10^{-3}gf.cm^2 /cm$ higher for pebble) processed with CDR m/c was higher than that of the fabrics processed with Sofleena m/c.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.41-47
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• 2002

Until now, there is a tendency of most textile research focused on the certain specific area of textiles in profound. This paper based on the case study of inspection of manufacturing men's formal wear has been investigated in the relationship between defection of men's formal wear and mechanical properties of textile for fall and winter. As a results of implementing Pearson's Correlation, density, blend rate, bending property, the rate of silk blend, the formality of sewing are correlated with defection of men's formal wear. However, it is required the defection of classification standard in various types of the finished product in a further study. In addition to increase efficiency of production in the manufacture, it is necessary for scholars to investigate the direction of research according to the contingency approach based on the systems approach.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.34-39
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• 2004

Dyeing properties of Glycyrrhizae Radix was investigated with silk fabrics. Dyeing water is a type of chalcone, it showed yellow in IR spectrum. K/S value showed high in following conditions; Glycyrrhizae Radix $200g/1\ell4 water, $80^{\circ}$ of dyeing temperature, 90 minute of dyeing time. Glycyrrhizae Radix dyeing water has higher K/S value in alkalinity(pH9) than in neutrality(pH7) or acidity(pH3) conditions. K/S value showed highest in pH5 premordant method of alkalinity dyeing water condition. The color of silk fabric dyed with Glycyrrhizae Radix is yellow. The change of color did not show by mordant treatment. K/S value showed higher in mordant treatment than nonmordant. Light fastness showed over 3 degree in nonmordant, premordant, simmordant(Al,Cu,Fe) and postmordant(Cu). Water fastness showed over 3 degree in dyeing water(pH3, pH5, pH7). Dry cleaning fastness showed over 3 degree in all dyeing methods. Washing fastness is showed in 2-3 degree; Al in nonmordant, premordant, simmordant and Cu in simmordant are 2-3 degree. Perspiration fastness is nearly 3-4 degree in premordant and simmordant. Perspiration fastness shows high in premordant, simmordant than postmordant. The fastness of light, water, dry cleaning, washing, perspiration shows better nonmordant, premordant, simmordant than postmordant method.