• The Journal of Information Systems
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.149-162
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• 2023

Purpose In the textile industry, fabric defects significantly impact product quality and consumer satisfaction. This research seeks to enhance defect detection by developing a transformer-based deep learning image segmentation model for learning high-dimensional image features, overcoming the limitations of traditional image classification methods. Design/methodology/approach This study utilizes the ZJU-Leaper dataset to develop a model for detecting defects in fabrics. The ZJU-Leaper dataset includes defects such as presses, stains, warps, and scratches across various fabric patterns. The dataset was built using the defect labeling and image files from ZJU-Leaper, and experiments were conducted with deep learning image segmentation models including Deeplabv3, SegformerB0, SegformerB1, and Dinov2. Findings The experimental results of this study indicate that the SegformerB1 model achieved the highest performance with an mIOU of 83.61% and a Pixel F1 Score of 81.84%. The SegformerB1 model excelled in sensitivity for detecting fabric defect areas compared to other models. Detailed analysis of its inferences showed accurate predictions of diverse defects, such as stains and fine scratches, within intricated fabric designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.85-95
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• 1986

Sonia Delaunay(1885$\~$1979) was one of great pioneers of abstract art, who looked at clothes and fabrics with a plastics eyes. In Association with her husband Robert Delaunay, they were instrumental in founding the movement of Orphism, she proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and had a brilliant influence on the decoration and women's fashion of the 1920's. Having a strong sense for dramatic and decorative color derived in part from childhood remembrances of Russian folk art she initiated a total revolution in which she created her first simultaneous dress with multi-colored samples of materials. She extended the principle of color's simultaneity to the field of fashion, fabric design and applied art. She was interested in the dress for ballet and opera. Fashion designer Paul Poiret asked her to design the fabrics and she created the geometric and abstract patterns with her strong color. It seemed that her design was revolutionary and avant-garde. Always she desired not only art of seeing but also art of living. The purpose of this study is to recognize the influence she had upon the history of modern fashion and fabric design. It was remarked that her paintings served as a basis for later developments in Kinetics Art and had influences on 1980' s abstract patterns for silk dress. Finally, the concept 'simultaneity' of her art signifies endless rhythmes in space and time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.11 no.7
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• pp.105-112
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• 2020

This paper presents an investigation into the development of a fabric electronics based smart bag for festival users of the 2029 generation with customizable tech flaps (music media control/ LED animated graphic functions) based on the application of traditional Korean patterns and goblin patterns in an electric circuit. The investigator took into consideration functional and design strategies to enable custom service according to users' tastes and situations. Based on these considerations, a customizable smart bag platform was proposed in a detachable module based on a computer embroidery machine. The study is significant in that it developed a product that is different from the old PCB smart products in hard form and proposed a new business model.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.117-127
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• 2002

Patterns presented at baroque were mostly floral pattern. Abstract anonymous flower, tulip, Acandus leaf, pomegranate were blended with one another and had a distinct leaning toward continuation and repetition. Components of design could be classified into flower and leaf, flower and fruit, flower and circumferential ornament, bunch of flowers, flower and pot, flower and geometry, and flower and animal. Floral patterns in this era were mostly fullness type being large, simple, and having more formalized motive and were fronted with unit type and vine shape. Unit type shows reflection of baroque style which aims to present absolute unification rather than freedom, which was inherent property of baroque style, by using symmetric pattern. Vine type were unfolded with C type curved line which was main characteristics of that time and showed flowage as a whole and pliable beauty. Floral pattern was filled the whole surface of fabric, thus background of fabric can not be discerned. So, it showed extreme decorative tendency and lavishness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.85-100
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• 2020

Recently, 3D printing technology, which is suitable for small-volume production of many varieties, has become considered a key manufacturing technology in the 4th industrial revolution. However, the nature of 3D printing technology means it is not yet able to be applied to traditional textiles due to Fabric Flexibility. The aim of this study is to investigate Textile Structural Design by finding the optimal yarn thickness for Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) 3D printed structures on geogrid dobby woven fabric that gives the optimal flexibility and tensile strength in the final product. The test results for tensile load strength of the 3D printed test samples, using 1.0mm, 0.8mm, 0.6mm and 0.4mm yarn thicknesses, showed that all were found to be above 250N, this higher than the tensile strength of 180N that is recommended for textile products. Based on these results, the four dobby structural patterns with 3D printing produced had four yarn thicknesses: 1.0mm, 0.8mm, 0.6mm, and 0.4mm. The thinner the yarn, the more flexible the fabric; as such the optimal conditions to produce SLS-based 3D printed textiles with suitable strength and flexibility used a thickness of yarn in the range of 0.4mm to 0.6mm.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.592-599
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate consumer needs, image sensibility and preference of bedding fabric according to size and spacing of dot pattern. 18 kinds of dot pattern fabrics were designed with different diameters(6, 8, 10cm) and distances(4, 7, 10cm) in regular arrangement of diamond figure. The subjects were 162 male and female university students. The data were analyzed by SPSS 24.0. Fabrics were assessed subjectively using a 5-point scale 17 consumer needs and 33 sensory descriptors. The most consumer's needs for bedding fabric was shown to be functionality of bedding including hygiene, touch, warmth, ease of washing and management, air permeability, and hygroscopicity. The other parameters of consumer's needs were shown to be physical property and design parameter. The results of analysis of the dimension of image sensibility for fabrics with different size and spacing of dots are derived from six factors including joyfulness, coziness, uniqueness, charm, femininity, and complexity. As a result of analysis of preference with fabric kinds, there was a significant difference in preference with fabrics. The preferred fabrics were characterized by the pattern and the base fabric being striking three-dimensionally with 1/3 twill and 3/1 twill fabric. Sensory descriptors related to joyful image and unique image were analyzed as evaluation terms that can distinguish the preferences of fabrics. Correlation analysis showed the fabrics are preferred as the difference in luminance and reflectance between the base and pattern of the fabric become larger and the spacing of patterns become closer.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate electrical conductivity of fabrics from polyester (PET) and Nylon (N) containing polyurethane (PU), with silver paste patterns screen-stenciled in three directions. The PET/PU and N/PU fabrics knitted or woven were uniaxially strain-recovered up to 22.5% in three times when each change in electrical resistance was simultaneously measured. This study established four variables that complexly affected electrical conductivity of these specimens; fabric structures, components, cover factors, and the percolation of silver particles. The woven or knitted fabric structures did not distinctively cause the changes in electrical resistance, however, the woven fabrics with the diagonal patterns showed their relatively high electrical resistance. The PET/PU fabrics with increasing the PET proportion generally presented the opposite propensity to its electrical conductivity. The changes in electric resistance of the PET/PU 85/15 2/1 twill and double plain fabrics instantaneously responded to the rate of elongation. The PET/PU group exhibited a reverse correlation between its cover factor and electrical resistivity. The highest electrical conductivity of the PET/PU 95/5 interlock fabric, with very few fluctuations, was attributed to the deep percolation of the silver particles that bridged the gaps between one loop and another. On the other hand, the occurrence of the silver cracks along with the elongated direction led to the immeasurably high change in electrical resistance as the strain increased.