• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.87-99
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to develop machine embroidery textile designs for each technique that can be expressed using a single-headed computer embroidery sewing machine through a machine embroidery CAD system. For research, embroidery CAD utilized the Artistic digitizer, and the guillotine computer-mechanical magnetization machine used ELNA. The design concept was limited to portraits and relics of independence activists in six memorial halls built in Korea. The results of this study are as follows. First, it was found that the machine embroidery texture, which could only be produced by industries in the past, can be expand in the infinite creative embroidery design area by enabling the digitalization of motif images and the simulation of machine embroidery techniques through various layout options. Second, in the development of machine embroidery textures, it was found that the setting of the width, height, axis ratio, stitch, object, path, length, density, layer order, etc. in embroidery CAD is a very important part of determining the completeness of the embroidery results. Third, mechanical embroidery textile designs, which can be represented by single-head computer machine embroidery machine were able to show colorful embroidery results that differs from the original image by using seven main techniques and five deep technique alone or in combination, according to the designer's intention.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1255-1263
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• 2008

Study on Hwal-ot, woman's wedding robe of the Joseon Dynasty, has been limited to the Princess Bock-on's Hwal-ot and some folk remains. In this study, I tried to identify formative characteristics of Hwal-ot by studying embroidery design patterns in the royal Hwal-ot. On Mar 26, 2007, I inspected total of 15 pieces of embroidery design patterns for Hwal-ot held at the National Palace Museum of Korea. I classified them into three types of Hwal-ot by considering characteristics in embroidery design patterns as well as composition of embroidery design patterns held by the private. For the Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type I, there is a calligraphy called "Embroidery Design Pattern of Red Long Robe for leo-dong Palace", which is presumed to be the embroidery design pattern of Princess Deok-on, the third daughter of King Sunjo and a little sister to Princess Bock-on. Its patterns are very similar to that of Princess Bock-on's, with similar flower patterns and treasure patterns, as well as overall stripy structure. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type II maintains the same flower patterns and butterfly patterns as in the type I, but does not have the striped decorative. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type III has illustrative design with waves and mountain at the background and a pair of water birds flying around lotus. In particular, the type III design has a nine phoenix pattern at the front part of the robe, illustrating nine baby phoenixes (four in the left, five in the right) under a mother phoenix, which is closer to characteristics found in the Hwal-ot embroidery design patterns at the end of the Joseon dynasty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.151-165
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• 2023

This study aims to develop a mechanic embroidery bag design that reflects the symbolic image of Korean independence activists who sacrificed for the country so that today's Korea can exist. As a research method, the theoretical consideration and image collection of independence activists were conducted through a literature review and visits to the memorial halls of six independence activists. The bag design was developed using mechanic embroidery textile of 12 motifs manufactured in previous studies through the computer mechanic embroidery sewing machine, and the types were limited to totes, Boston, clutches, baskets, shoppers, hover bags, and hat boxes. The results of this study are as follows. First, it was found that the dense light and shade and delicate color expression of each motif design were the most important and achieved through the proper selection and utilization of embroidery yarn according to the mechanic embroidery expression technique for developing in-depth textile materials. Second, unlike in the past, when machine embroidery was difficult to handle, the spread of embroidery CAD and computer machine embroidery sewing machines made it easier for individuals to develop embroidery products. Third, this study once again emphasized the symbolism of Korean independence activists who sacrificed for the nation to exist at a time when it needs to be recognized due to the lack of fashion and diversity in cultural products containing historical and cultural meaning and values of the country. This study was able to develop computer machine embroidery textiles and various bag designs using various mechanic embroidery expression techniques that can highlight the symbolic image of each motif.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.123-134
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• 2023

Fashion design, CAD production, and the use of digital software can shorten the time and production processes in the fashion industry, but there are still many limitations in how to similarly express textile textures. Having this awareness, how to implement the visual effects of textile texture similar to that of the real world in the virtual world is one of the major exploration tasks in the fashion industry. Therefore, this study aims to analyze examples of embroidery techniques in Christian Dior collections and explore how embroidery techniques in 3D CLO fashion design can express the texture of real clothes more similarly by creating virtual works through 3D samples and 3D CLO software. First, the analysis criteria and theoretical basis of this study were derived through a literature review on fashion textile embroidery techniques, identifying types and characteristics of embroidery techniques, and classifying them into 12 types. Second, photos of the Dior 2017-2023 SS/FW Ready-to-Wear collections were collected and analyzed through the case analysis VOGUE site. Third, it presents the production of 3D CLO works by deriving a method of implementing embroidery techniques through the design of sample textile embroidery techniques using substances 3D sample software. The study's has some limitations. First, in 3D CLO fashion design, the needle gap for embroidery must be widened to see the thread pattern. Second, by reducing the number of needles, it is necessary to imitate the actual embroidery effect. Third, it is judged that it will be effective to lengthen the thread and adjust the thickness of the thread. Fourth, the thickness of the entire embroidery pattern must be increased to enable a three-dimensional texture.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.51-59
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• 2024

Qiang ethnic group is one of the fifty-six ethnic minorities in China, and Qiang embroidery, as an important achievement of Qiang's intangible cultural heritage, is the precipitation and testimony of the history and culture of the Qiang ethnic group. However, with the development of the times, traditional and ancient Qiang embroidery is facing a dilemma due to the problem of a single form of communication. Therefore, it is necessary to add new communication media for Qiang embroidery to help it spread and develop better. In this paper, we extract the core representative patterns of Qiang embroidery, use the "shape grammars" as the rules of morphological changes, and generate new decorative pattern patterns with the characteristics of Qiang embroidery by adding, deleting, mirroring, rotating, and other relevant rules of changes, and combine the new patterns with the rules of formal beauty to combine the layout, which is then applied in the design of different cultural creations and products. The new patterns are combined with the rules of formal beauty and applied in the design of different cultural and creative products. To provide a quantitative method for the digital protection of Qiang embroidery in the new era of Chinese traditional art, and also provide new ideas for the industrialization application.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.838-847
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• 2011

The object of this study is as follows. First, according to the silhouette of clothes, I will search the relationship with the embroidery design. Second, I will investigate the relation of coloration about the clothes color and embroidery color. Third, I will search the relation with the image in clothes and embroidery design characteristic. The data acquisition is selected to the total 447 pictures of embroidery clothing design from the www.style.com, www.samsungdesign.net which are the related information site. The data are limited from S/S season in 2004 till F/W season in 2008 in the Paris, Milano, and New York collection. The analytical method was made through the analyze method and statistical method. First, on the relation with the clothes silhouette and embroidery design, if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the X-shaped or A-line silhouette in the one-piece and dress, the image which is elegant and feminine can be expressed. if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the H-line silhouette in jacket and court, the mannish image can be expressed. Second, the embroidery color showed up as the contrast combination of the monotone when the clothes color was the monochrome. And the embroidery color showed up as the tone in which is bright and sober when clothes color had 2 or 3 or 4. So, if the embroidery color is utilized as the similar color scheme, it will be effective. Third, if the embroidery technique of the one-piece and dress is utilized as the the satin stitch technique and the bloom and leaf motive being stylized pattern is used in the all-over and border pattern, It will be effective to express the romantic/feminine, ethnic/folklore, active, and classic image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.59-69
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• 2022

Vyshyvanka, the embroidered folk costume shirt of Ukraine, originated during the early reign of the Slavs, and currently, it is also called Ukrainian embroidery. In cases of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements, it is necessary to research formative characteristics for expanding the visual aspect through the diversification of techniques, but also the aspect of the psychological meaning to Ukrainians. This study aims to consider Vyshyvanka as a unique embroidery technique, and also analyze the formative characteristics expressed in apparel elements. The study of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements can present meaning to understanding the Ukrainian fashion. The image materials for the analysis of Vyshyvanka design, included work photos contained in literary materials and foreign online visual materials. The results of formatively analyzing the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel are as follows. First, the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements held an incantatory meaning, protecting wearers from getting easily invaded by evil spirits. Second, the Vyshyvanka patterns utilized symbolism that implied the incantatory meaning. Third, a single color was used for the embroidery. Lastly, materials like cotton, that are easy to embroider, were mostly used. The formative characteristics of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements implied the community spirit, nature worship, and folk beliefs. As an attempt to understand the Ukrainian fashion, this study is significant in the aspect of expanding, widely utilizing, and expanding the range of understanding of Ukrainian fashion. Therefore, there should be more active researches on Ukrainian fashion, so Vyshyvanka can be more widely used as a design element.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.407-413
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information about various methods to easily affix unique embroidery effects to clothes due to the current expansion of digital fashion technology. A comparison of design techniques using virtual and real clothing was used to show the visual expression of embroidery designs. Actual embroidery motifs were created using a computer embroidery machine, DTP embroidery motifs were made by utilizing digitalization techniques, and digital motifs were produced. Then patch pocket type T-shirts were produced using each embroidery technique to compare the visual expression effects on clothing. The results of this comparison are as follows: for real clothing color (3.5), texture (4.0), gloss (3.8), and thickness (3.5). It was found that the color and thickness of the embroidery floss was visually sufficiently show the design texture and gloss. In terms of the embroidery design on virtual garments, the resutls of color (3.8), texture (4.3), gloss (3.9), and thickness (3.6) showed a high degree of similarity to the non-virtual results, confirming that digitized embroidery motifs are also a tool that can fully realize unique embroidery effect.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.20-33
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• 2004

The creative energy of the Korean women who pursued spiritual artistic practices under the limited situation of male-dominated confucian society in the Chosun Dynasty(AD 1392 - AD 1910) constituted the background for the development of Gubang Craft. Gubang Craft represented their artistic abilities, moral and family values, and the pursuit of self-esteem. Especially embroidery successfully showed four main elements of Gubang Craft such as embellishment, diversity, femininity, and craftsmanship. This paper is designed to explore how the traditional elements of embroidery works are restored and have influence on the modern Korean fiber art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.45-56
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• 2014

Embroidery is called 'Ja-Su' in Korea. The purpose of this study is to present a method that utilizes the technology of traditional Korean embroidery to get a genuine feeling of tradition. This study was conducted in the following manner: first, Previous researches and references were used survey traditional embroidery techniques. Second, by using traditional embroidery techniques, the study attempted to develop a design of embroidery household Items with modern sense and practicality. The results of this study are as follows: This study has developed and produced embroidery household items that can be used in modern life by using traditional embroidery techniques. A total of 10 kinds of miscellaneous everyday life utensils and interior pieces were produced. Materials used in the embroidery production were made out of natural fabrics, such as cotton (Kwang-Mok, Mu-Myung), linen, cotton thread were used for a practical reason for practical reasons (i.e. being easily washable). Embroidery techniques used in this study were straight stitch, outline stitch, satin stitch, separate stitch, french knot stitch, long&short stitch, brick stitch, chain stitch, couching stitch, Pad stitch, and pine-leaf stitch. In order to further develop traditional embroidery, a technique passed down from the ancestors, it needs to change to become more suitable for modern life while maintaining the tradition.