• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.185-204
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to take into consideration the formative and aesthetic characteristics of wedding dresses that existed during the periods of Neo-Classicism and Romanticism which appeared as a reaction toward Neo-Classicism. The method of the research was mainly focused on precedent research data and general references. Furthermore the data on wedding dresses was mainly collected from British, French, and American library and museum web sites. The result of the research is the following. The Neo-Classicism art, which appeared along with the enlightenment in the beginning of the 19th century, pursues beauty based on associations and imitations of ancient Greek and Roman arts. In addition to aforementioned pursuits, the Neo-Classicism art also pursued universal beauty and social usefulness through law and order. This aesthetic value was also applied to the wedding dresses, so classical beauty, natural beauty and universal beauty were expressed as follows: corsets of the previous era were removed from general clothing and Empire style that imitated natural Greek style became predominant. Also, muslin replaced high quality clothes which were used as the main materials of the dressing during the previous era. Empire style's wedding dress became popular and simple colors and styles of the wedding dress expressed the beauty of the human body and emphasized civility at the same time. Romanticism art and costumes opposed rationalism and pursued sentimentalism. Moreover, it pursued diversity, exotic tastes and accepted diverse reactionism unlike Neo-Classicism's simplification and standardization. These aesthetic characteristic were applied to the wedding dress of this period; wedding dress of romanticism pursued feminine and elegant beauty with "X" silhouettes and various decorations, like general costumes. And they were decorated with a variety of excessive accessories, details and trimmings to express romantic sentimentalism. Exotic tastes which included Chinese, Egyptian, Indian influence and other diverse tastes were expressed through hair style, accessories and patterns of shawl. However, the white color in the wedding dress revealed purity and sanctity which cannot be found from general costumes regardless of whether the dress expressed Neo-classicism or Romanticism. As a formal dress worn during wedding ceremonies, the wedding dresses of the royalty revealed dignity and authority and significantly influenced later wedding dress designs.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권7호
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• pp.714-726
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• 2012

The Korean wave 'Hallyu' has proliferated in China and the trend is remarkable especially in wedding photography. Korean style wedding photography has gained wide popularity among newly married Chinese couples because it is regarded as fresh and trendy. Accordingly, there is an urgent need to develop and supply dress designs for Chinese brides who want Korean style wedding photography. This study outlined the current status of Hallyu and wedding photography in China in order to analyze dresses for wedding photography. Chinese brides were analyzed to outline the features of preferred designs. The dresses preferred by Chinese brides for wedding photography included wedding dresses, evening dresses, and casuals (respectively), and partly featured traditional dresses. The preferred design elements for wedding dresses and evening dresses were ball gown silhouettes, strapless necklines, and gather detail. As for the casuals preferred by Chinese brides, the romantic style was most preferred and the skirts, dresses, T-shirts and blouse items were preferred for the romantic style. Through the analysis, dress designs for Chinese brides who want Korean style wedding photography were developed to reflect Hallyu content as well as 2012 S/S fashion trends for wedding dresses, evening dresses, and casuals. Currently Korean style wedding photography is gaining popularity in China and Hallyu content is considered a fresh and competitive item that may strongly appeal to Chinese consumers. This study focused on the development of designs for wedding photography dresses with Hallyu related content and is to be used as a reference for the development of Hallyu related wedding products as well as the proliferation of Hallyu.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.465-469
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• 2003

The present study revealed; that (1) The students majoring in a piano course were the preference type of the performance dress - best line was designed of upper form chest. It was 1.5cm shorter than armhole line, the princess line was preferred Top one piece without sleeves which was designed with slim by bottom line through west dart form best line. The expression method was showing embroidery and bidding, colors were in order to white, ivory, black and blue style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning, silk satin and race style. (2) The students majoring in a vocal music were the preference type of the performance dress - the princess line was designed shorter, the west line of back and forth was preferred the one piece of bulk style divided with three partitions. Neck line was 5cm shorter than the middle of back, 9cm shorter than the side neck position, 9cm shorter than the middle of forth, sweet heart neck line with circular sleeve designed 7cm shorter than the side neck position. Colors were in order to ivory, red and yellow style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning silk satin and race style.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2003

This study has as its primary aims the following: to create a fashion design based on the aesthetic value of Art Nouveau which flourished from the end of 19 century to the beginning of 20 century. In this thesis, two themes, Rose Aroma and Iris Memory are selected among the flower patterns and are used to create two works. First, the Rose Aroma theme is for an evening dress of S-curve style made with Silk Jacquard based on rose image of Art Nouveau. For decoration, artificial rose and its stem, and leaves are used to highlight hip line. By such design associated with a flower garden, cubic effects are expressed as a design point. Second, the Iris Memory theme is for a wedding dress made with tulle based on Iris image of Art Nouveau. This dress has a special point in its top bra, underwear used like an outer garment, involving spangle, beads, pearl, and cubic in order to enhance its visual effect. These works are significant in presenting the development possibilities of various fashion designs by introducing Art Nouveau style into diverse modern fashions.

• 복식
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• 제50권8호
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• pp.177-198
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• 2000

The major purpose of this study is to obtain the evident and visual data about the changes of Korean dress with a socio-cultural context through dress depicted in the Korean films since the 1960s. For this purpose, after were Korean socio-cultural background including the history of Korean films and mass fashion trends reviewed, total fifteen Korean films by ten year were selected on the basis of contemporaneity popularity, and fashionability, and analyzed with the data reviewed before. And the results can be summarized as follows : Dress in the Korean films of the 1960s shows sporty casual took influenced by western style, with the popularity of young fashion and youth film. The typical styles are sac dress and mini skirt fur women, and suit with American silhouette for men. Unisex mode including slim T-shirts and blue jeans with European silhouette supt appears mainly in the Korean films of the 1970s, with the change of sex roles and mass fashion trend. Dress in the Korean films of the 1980s is characterized by bold silhouette and decorative details. with the boom of erotic metro-drama and luxurious fashion trend, such as padded jacket, X silhouette ensemble, brig look coat for women, and American style suit for men. Dress in the Korean films of the 1990s shows the rapid cycle of fashion with the increase of casual wear, reflecting the popularity of romantic comedy film and various socio-cultural circumstances. As a result, the current of dress depleted in the Korean films since the 1960s is summarized as the cycle of fashion accelerated, the similarity between men's and women's wear, and the increase of sporty casual wear. Also, dress in the films reflects effectively the socio-cultural context related to fashion except for especially emphasizing characters in films.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 19th International Costume Association Congress
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• pp.81-81
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• 2001

R.O.C. has experienced successively the development of previous dynasties that creates out the unique traditional culture of each stage. The Chinese nation is not a one-fold race; each dynasty absorbs the culture of the outside race. It is Tang Dynasty blends mutually however yield unusually brilliant results. The Tang Dynasty's national strength is forceful and the economy is prosperous. Above all, social custom and current of thought both break the constraint of previous dynasties' conservative thinking and keep positive and aggressive. While in the contact with extraterritorial culture, not only changes the feminine social status, but also produces unprecedented innovation and reform on the feminine dress. The Tang Dynasty's varied feminine suit is affected by the western regions of China culture, such as expose of chest, low collar, short top garment and skirt with narrow sleeves or wide sleeves, sleeve gown with plate collar or turndown collar, man's wear, and military dress, etc. An epoch can be known by Tang Dynasty feminine dress's special features, for example, the make-up of Tang-Shien-lon's Uan-Ho period presents dress style of late Tang days. However, the Chinese people compete mutually pursuing the strange costume, and accepting different cultural incitement This reveals that the changes of popular culture would result in the big transform of the Tang's dress style. This paper studies inherit of Tang Dynasty's culture and east-spread of the western regions of China culture. While understanding the Tang's favor in the western regions of China customs, all follow the western regions of China without exception, such as dance music, painting, dress, food, amusement, etc. Because of emperor's progressive race policy and forgiveness attitude to the foreign tribe that makes Tang Dynasty's feminine dress much easier to accept and blend the special features of the foreign tribe culture. While joined with west culture, and pick the dress's essence of the western regions of China, the original possessed of culture consciousness and esthetic sense improve and create their own dress, as well as enrich more inner part of dress art and the spirit.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.37-60
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• 2021

Before the tenth century, the dress of elite women in and around China often reflected "Han" Chinese fashions and preferences. In funerary paintings and relief sculptures of Sogdian and Xianbei couples from the sixth century, for example, women wear "Han" Chinese-style clothing. Even in the Tang dynasty (ca. 618-907), when exchange with Central Asia via overland Silk Road trade impacted the styles and patterning of elite dress and men incorporated clear Central Asian attributes into their dress, elite women in the Tang sphere wore recognizably Tang fashions. Chinese-style dress in these centuries clearly conveyed cultural import and, likely, political power, especially after the founding of the Tang dynasty. However, the straightforward borrowing of Tang women's dress shifted in the Khitan Liao dynasty (ca. 907-1125). The Liao, in contrast to other states that shared a border with China in previous centuries, saw themselves as political equals to the Song dynasty (ca. 960-1278) court in the south. The Liao court was interested in Song customs and culture and incorporated artistic motifs and practices from the Song court. However, the Liao courtly idiom was never fully subsumed into the greater world of the Song - rather, the Liao used facets of Song courtly culture for their own ends. One way this is manifested is through the dual administrative system, a bureaucratic organization that, among other things, regulated and distinguished between who was permitted to wear Khitan and non-Khitan dress. In this paper, I will examine the material evidence from funerary contexts for how the dress of elite Liao women both engaged with the dress of the Song, while also maintaining a certain amount of cultural autonomy. Through their dress, elite Liao women signaled clear messages about their status, identity, and difference to their Song counterparts.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.452-459
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• 1994

Fabric hand was assessed for 14 women's spring-fall dress fabrics based on the subjective hand evaluation scale developed in the part 1 of this study. The effects of fabric type, seam and dress style on the subjective hand evaluation of 470 Korean consumers (205 textile experts and 265 non-experts) were investigated. Mechanical properties obtained from KES-FB system were compared with the each dimension of subjective hand expression. The type of fiber and construction were considered to be important factors in affecting hand assessment of Korean consumers, however, the presence and type of seam were not considered to be important. There were certain characteristics of subjective hand attributes for each dress style. Surface properties of fabrics, even though it is not strictly mechanical properties, appeared to be the most effective dimension in the developement of new products which appeal to Korean conssumers.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.749-759
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• 2007

As the traditional style is treated as one of the important themes in fashion recently, how to apply the formative character in Korean and Japanese traditional dress to modern fashion is searched through actual analysis of photograph material, Both design formative elements were confirmed by clothing and fashion department majors through visual data so that 20 pieces of them were selected as final analysis object. Korean traditional dress form in modern fashion emphasizes curvaceousness as plane division. On the other hand, that of Japanese shows straight line, layered, belt, big look through up & down connection style. Color in Korean traditional dress prefers white and original color and modern fashion displays the natural beauty through harmony of similar colors ; that of Japanese based on natural color such as persimmon color cherishes natural beauty and implicit moderation showing harmony of various original color with brilliance and neutral color. While texture in Korean traditional dress was fine and exquisite, that of Japanese preferred coarse and tactile ones. In motif, Korea was natural and geometric but Japanese variously used complex and geometric ones. Likewise, the result suggests that the formative character in Korean and Japanese modern fashion affects the modern dress format as new aesthetic sense and takes on more complicated and subtle aspect in basic form, not just use so far.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.61-68
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• 2000

In recognition of the necessity to research on dresses of the past to lead future fashion, this study is focused on plastron basque that has constructed or decorated upper garments in various forms from the ancient times to modern times. Especially through reproduction and restoration of Victorian dress with plastron basque, the study approaches the problem in positive manner, As a result, studied 1887∼9 day dress is a plastron of pouched style with pleats panel in front center connected to jacket style bodice by buttons: and it shows changes into modern day dress form by constructing fitted line with decorative effects. By actually making the plastron that was only seen in picture, we expect this study will be a valuable resource for developing patterns, sewing and decoration techniques.