• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.151-160
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• 2002

This study implicates that the Danryoung(Formal dress) has been worn by the lady in Joesun dynasty. So far 8 cases of Danryoung excavated has been supposed to be worn by woman. The differences between man and woman's Danryoung is at the 'Somae(sleeve)'and 'Mu(gusset)'. Through those excavated Danryoungs, 'Somae' in Woman's Danryoung was straight and 'Mu' attached in outer layer of dress with rectangular form. From the excavated dresses, Ot-go-reum(strings) coloured violet and wider than man's Danryoung. It was also found as detached. Woman's Danryoung was decorated with gold brocade and excavated with belt. Through the dress and accessories excavated, it was estimated in mid-16C to early 17C. With this respect, it was implicated that Danryoung has changed its style to Wonsam after late 17C.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.38-51
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• 1999

The purpose of this study finds that (1) history of the First birthday rite(첫돌 의례) and (2) changing process of the First birthday\`s dress and ornaments(첫돌 복식). The results of this study are as follows. The history of the first birthday rite has been continued vary long years in Korea, but it\`s origin is not clearness. The purpose and form of the first birthday rite are vary similarity in China and Korea. The rate of infant mortality was regarded that an absolute element of the first birthday rite. Making process of the first birthday\`s dress and ornaments was not definite, The adoption of that\`s form and elements act on affect local·homely·individual situation. First birthday\`s dress and ornaments was changed by changing process and convert of recognition about First birthday rite. It shows that the change of rites clothing contacted with changing process of rites.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.303-312
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to analyze the lower part of dress forms with different sectional rotation-angles ($e.g.\;9^{\circ},\;15^{\circ},\;30^{\circ},\;45^{\circ}$) using three-dimensional measurement system and to investigate measurement properties for dress making. The dress forms used in this experiment were size 8 and six types: four from Korea and two from Japan. The instrument and tools for three-dimensional measurement was Whole Body 3D scanner (Exyma-WBS2H). The analysis program used in this experiment was Rapid Form 2004 PP1 (INUS technology, Inc, Korea). The measurement of dress forms was done three times with different sectional rotation-angles and its data were analyzed using SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. The following results were obtained: 1. With mean and standard deviation of each measured part, it was found out that the dress forms from two countries were different in size per each part. For example, the Japanese one was relatively large in middle hip and hip, compared to the Korean one. 2. The 3D analysis of the sectional rotation-angles revealed some differences between the two dress forms in sectional length per each part. 3. With cluster analysis results, it was found that there were definite differences among measurements per each part, especially in $30^{\circ}\;and\;45^{\circ}$ sections. 4. The proportion of the dress forms showed significant differences in the curvature between center and side section of the lower parts. In addition, the shapes on the horizontal section map of the four levels (waist, middle hip, hip, and bottom) were analyzed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제19권
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• pp.83-103
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• 1992

This thesis researched the ritual dress of Korean new religions such as Suungyo, Mirubulgyo, Taejonggyo and WonBuddhism, According to kind, color, cloth and shape this thesis analyzed the ritual dress of them on the basis of its literatures. I. The results of the ritual dress of them through its literatures are as follows: 1. In case of Suungyo, there are Songwansonbok, Togwandobok, Pulmogwan, Ch'onui, Chap'ae , Yukhwangang, Pobdae, Hakp'yo and Kyonjang in its kind. In its color there are Huk, Cha, Hoe, Chahwang, Hong, Paek, Hwang, ROk, and Nam. Chemical fiber with one layer is used in its cloth. Its shape is made by a comprise between the feature of Korean dress, chuui and that of the existing dress of Confucianim, Buddhism and Taoism. 2. In case of Mirukbulgyo, Inhwag-wan, Chongbok, P'oui, Tae, Moson, Yomju and tanju are systematized in its kind. In its color there are Paek, Huk, ch'ong,Chok, Ok and Rok, Kongdan and chemical fiber with one layer are used in its cloth. Its shape has a symbolic form of Yu'Pul and son based upon Korean dress, Chuui. In its symbol Inhwagwan symbolized Confucianism and Chongbok Taoism and P'oui Buddhism. 3. In case of Taejonggyo, there are Chusabok, Sjhobok, Yewonbok, Chusamo, Yewonmo, Tae and Hwa in its kind. In its color there are Paek(main one), Nam, Huk, Chaju, Chok, Hwang and Hoe. Kongdan with both sides is elaborately used in its cloth. Its shape thken from Korean dress means the succession of the national spirit of the white-clad folk. 4. In case of won Buddhism, there are kybok and Pobrak in its kind. In its color there are Paek, Huk and Hoe---especially, both Hwangt'o and Hwang are used in Pobrak, Anyone can use cloth at his will. In its shape Kyoblk for man is Yangbok and Kyobok for woman is Tongch'ima and Chogori, a style of Korean dress. Pobrak is a form Tanryong worm with Rakja.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.44-53
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to analyze dress meanings painted by elementary school girl. As in language, the dress is the symbol and form of non-verval communicator its wearer by means of the mentalistic semantics. Also it is to analyze meanings of dress by applying the semantics of Geoffrey Leech. The followings are the findings of the analysis 1. The conceptual are the findings of the analysis 2. The social meaning is indicating the feminine image. 3. The offective meaning is indicating the aesthetic value.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.97-104
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• 2005

In this research, the fit of basic dresses was examined, by analyzing and comparing the satisfaction of fitness of basic dresses made by the draping method on a custom-made replica body form and that of a basic dress made by the flat pattern method. Basis dresses were produced by the draping method for each 52 subjects using custom-made body forms, and another kind basic dresses for each subjects were produced by the flat pattern method using measurements of body sizes. Both basic dresses received high scores for the satisfaction of fit, but the basic dresses produced by draping method received higher scores. Thus it is expected to produce a more successful fit by draping a basic dress on a custom-made body form. Future research using more subjects might confirm these results. A more concrete analysis through using additional satisfaction tests could be conducted. For example, each subject might also serve as an evaluator to rate her satisfaction of fit wearing each of the two custom-made dresses. Finally, examining various body forms is suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제38권
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• pp.31-49
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• 1998

This study is the primary basic study about the spatial feature of modeling of Fashion Design. Then, this researcher lays significance in establishing the basic system about the character of dress and its ornaments as modeling in spatial-formal, dimension, examining the feature of modeling closely through perception principle and offering the basic principle to plan and organize the modeling space for dress and its ornaments on the basis of it. To generalize the findings is as follows : First, the spatial system of modeling for dress and its ornaments is made with 3 elements such as space, human beings and dress and its ornaments. Second, the form of dress and its ornaments and the spatial organization start from the structural basis which is human body, and the sensible system of body is made through inter-action, but the aesthetic expression is complet-ed by the moment of body. Third, the characteristic principle of model-ing for dress and its ornaments which was suggested in Chapter IV is based on the visuo-per-ceptional modeling experience, and these thinking contents are inputted in cognition course as the invisible in formation in the new space plan and organization and activate the apperception course and aim at the action about aesthetic judgement.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.135-150
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is on the dance costume of ancient Egypt. First, after the present study looked onto a specialty of Egyptian dance, and then the present study classified Egyptian dress into type and form, quality of material and color tone, hair and headdress and other ornaments. Fundamentally, this study was intended to understand the traditional culture and to grasp the peculiarity of Egyptian dancing dress. This study was progressed as a theoretical research by using documents, photographs, literatures of museum, etc. The results of the study could be summarized as follows. Egyptian dancing featured the earliest form of stage dance in the world and improved religion dancing and sideshow dancing getting out of the form of primitive dance, and also there were professional dancers who developed highly skillful dancing technique. They played a role in disseminating it to many countries of the Mediterranean sea. Dancers of Egypt wore a variety of cloths like the general people. Accordingly, there were no big differences in qualify of material, color tone and other ornaments as well. Yet in accordance with improvement of dance, there was a show-up of clothing of professional dancers and changing of detail parts. So dancing dress was formed while distinguished from general clothing. Therefore, dancing dress of Egypt represents racial characteristics, activity, originality and pursues not authority, but respect of physical beauty or natural beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.373-381
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• 1996

Draping design system organized by European about 13C has been developed greatly for a long while, but for the purpose of the practical use the Dress form similar to human body has been needed. In order to make three-dimensional effect as fitting Muslin ot the Dress form. the Basic lien has to be established in Muslin and Dress form each. At this time, Shoulder-blade level is indicated from various angles : measure down 10cm from the back neck point, a quarter of the back neck point to the waist lie, the half-way point between neckline and bust line, measure down 41 inches from the back neck line, measure down 3 inches from the top edge of the muslin at center back and cross mark for neck line, and so forth. This study established the Basic line through the two ways of them (B.N.P∼B.L/2, B.N.P∼W.L/4), did tight fitting to the 5 kinds of Dress forms which ar normal type in the drop value(the difference between hip circumference and bust circumference), and acquired Basic Pattern. After the experiment, fitness are throughly investigate by statistical analysis of measurements. As a result, this study finds out that fit is proper when shoulder blade level is situated on a fourth of the back neck point to the waist line and a quarter point between back neck point and waist line, and waist dart is situated on the back center line and princess line.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.30-46
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• 2018

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.