• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.105-110
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• 2005

This paper documents a dress design process to demonstrate the theory that form follows intent. It includes a statement of the design context as a venue where the conceptual intent originated. The dragon icon became the subject, form, and content of the design project. The author's designerly endeavor is discussed with focus on reconfiguration of formal characteristics shown in the visual reference of the eastern dragon symbol into a dress design with the consideration of utilitarian, expressive, and symbolic issues. Throughout the process, the author was an active agent who created formal characteristics, manifested a thought into an object, and imbued a meaning to the dress, demonstrating the notion that form follows intent.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.451-459
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• 2022

This study aimed to develop a a custom-made dress form for draping using a live model's 3D body scan obtained from an entry-level 3D handheld scanners, 3D modeling software and 3D printing technology. A female subject was recruited whose body size fell under the normal (N) body shape criteria suggested by KS K 0051. First, the handheld scanner reduced the length of the legs in scanning, but most of the scanning operations between the neck and crotch levels were conducted accurately. Therefore, this study was designed to develop a torso dress form. The full body 3D scan was edited into a torso shape using ZBrush® software. Using Rhinoceros^® and Materialise's Magics software, a 3D body scan was modeled so that the user could fit two types of mannequin stands (one with a neck fixation from above and one with an insert from below) to the dress form. The body scan was divided into 9 pieces to fit the printable size of the Stratasys 3D printer Fortus 250mc, and the cross-sectional distance from the center to the periphery was downsized by 2 mm. After outputting the dress form scan file with a 3D printer, the dress form was manufactured by the first covering it with a 4 oz nonwoven pad and the second covering with a single jersey material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.131-148
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• 2008

Each stylistic period through history has its own unique look. The characteristic look of each period is completed and visualized with its prevailing ideologies, aesthetic consciousness and morality by means of 'form'. A period expresses its characteristics in accordance with form according to the widespread preferences of the time. Among the various cultural factors that form the look of the time, those that the period holds as ideal aesthetic values create the concept of 'ideal beauty' for that period. This study begins by establishing the conceptual definition of 'ideal beauty' and develops the premise that dress reflected ideal beauty. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects are dresses represented in paintings, the actual garments from the Renaissance to Baroque periods and written references about art, art history, and history of costume. The results, based upon a theoretical study of the zeitgeist and aesthetic values of the 16th and 17th centuries, are as follows: first, ideal beauty influences the substance and form that constitute dress style. It is a byproduct of the spirit of time, the zeitgeist. The concept of ideal beauty is born within the lifestyle pursued by the ruling class and focuses on the body as an epitome of beauty, moral values, custom, lifestyle and taste as it becomes visualized via form. Second, the aspect of dress representing the ideal beauty of particular time varied according to the times. In both periods, power and dignity were used to achieve the ideal aesthetic values. In the Renaissance, power was expressed by the horizontal extension of dress (i.e. wide farthingales and sleeves) and in the Baroque period, by vertical extension (i.e. long and tall wigs, fontanges and trains). It can be said that fashion in both periods achieved an ideal, such as power and dignity, via the same means, by extending dress sizes, but the ways in which those ideals were portrayed in each period's dress yielded very contrary styles. It is understood through this study that ideal beauty influenced the dress style of the Renaissance and Baroque periods and played a decisive role in determining its forms and symbolic meanings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.25-38
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to develop a dress form for elderly women according to their somatotype to be used for improving the fit of garments and patterns. Analyzing each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the 4 somatotypes in most of measure items. Bend-forward Group had shorter front length items. Abdomen-fat Group had lower upper-body values than Average Group and similar lower-body values to Fat Group. In most items except height, Fat Group had the biggest values. Analyzing the mean cross-section according to the section measurement parts, no difference existed in shoulder part and under bust part. However, in upper bust, bust, waist, abdomen, high hip, and hip parts, a significant difference existed. Also, according to the results of the mean cross-section as well as the average cross overlap section for each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the four somatotypes. Thus, Abdomen-fat Group and Fat Group were similar, while Bend-forward Group and Average Group were alike. According to the increase of age, lower body tended to have more conspicuous changes. Analyzing the profile of somatotypes, there existed a obvious significant difference among the 4 somatotypes, implying that the characteristics of somatotype need to be reflected when to develop dress forms for elderly women. Therefore, these differences must be an essential factor in pattern design. Comparing the current dress form with the dress form developed with simulation, we could find that a dress form developed for elderly women which reflects the characteristics of body shape is much better than a dress form developed by simple size variation such as small, medium and large size divisions to improve the fit of garments and pattern designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.17-32
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• 2013

This study examined the visual elements of the Trompe l'oeil design and the combination conditions of each element in order to deduce the form generation diagrams of Trompe l'oeil fashion design. The following is what the study found: First, Trompe l'oeil fashion design can be divided into two based on its subject: 'the combination of internal elements of dress' and 'the combination of external elements of dress'. Looking at the visual components of each type, depending on the subject, 'the combination of internal elements of dress' design was achieved by combining internal dress elements: including textile, detail, item, accessory, layering, etc.. In case of 'the combination of external elements of dress' design, the object of Trompe l'oeil was expanded in scope to environment, which includes the actions of a wearer. Second, as for Trompe l'oeil fashion design through the combination of external dress elements, the condition to combined visual components of the work in the process of creation was related to 'the popularity of object', 'the similarity of shapes and sizes', and 'the probability of location'. Third, deriving a form generation diagrams of Trompe l'oeil fashion design was very effective in delineating specific relationships and conditions, directions among elements combined in fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.100-114
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• 2004

This is a basic study for developing educational dress forms of male adults' pattern making. While examining the reality of each university's men's wear education and the production of male dress forms, this paper found the following findings: 1. Survey of Dress Forms Used by Men's Apparel Companies The men's apparel companies had dissatisfaction with domestic dress forms but satisfaction with foreign-made ones. In general, among the unsatisfied items were wide discrepancy in male Korean body sizes, unfitting domestic somatotypes, lacking dress forms for those in the 20s, and no diverse forms per body type. To be specific, unsuitable hip and shoulder parts as well as weak fixing parts were pointed out. Every apparel companies found it necessary to develop male dress forms based on Korean male adults. When they are developed for sale, they will be highly utilized in the order of fitting, pattern making, male design research, and somatotype research. 2. Survey of Education for Men's Wear in Fashion Dept. of University 61.54% of the investigated universities had some teaching as far as men's wear were concerned. Application areas of male dress forms were such as pattern making (53.85%), fitting (41.38%), and design research (5.77%). As to the degrees of utilization, 73.08% predicted them high.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.452-458
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• 2019

This study provides basic research for developing dress forms of women's wear making. This study compared the average body size of Korean women by investigating the shape, composition and size of 417 dress forms for pattern making, sold at Korean and international online malls. The results showed that Korean brands produced torso-type and torso-crotch-type (94.13%), torso-type was the most dominant type made by Japanese Ki and French St (${\geq}80%$), and all US Al products were whole-body-type. The most common used internal filler of the dress forms was urethane for South Korean companies and paper for Japanese Ki and French St. In most cases, cotton was used for outer materials. Alternatively, linen and rayon were used as outer materials. Al did not indicate the materials used for filler and outer layers. Additionally, the sizing system of dress forms was commonly presented as a Numeric type. In addition to Numeric type, Ki presented body type + usage and Al used character type. When the dress form size for the average bust size of each age group was evaluated, waist measurements were smaller than the corresponding bust measurements. Dress form was presented in the KS interval and was compared with the $mean{\pm}1{\sigma}$ interval of each age group. The majority of the dress forms produced in South Korea were for body shapes in their 20s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.5-21
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• 1998

This study aims to show how tradition and modernity has interacted to produce the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korea. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceeded. And photos of the modern Korean dress from 1980 to 1997 were analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the body form was studied in terms of exposure and concealment of the physical body parts and the perception of body was classified into two categories, the abstract and the realistic. And the dress form was studied in silhouette and the perception of dress was assorted as body priority and clothes priority. Second, the aesthetic values of body were categorized to divinity, humanity and sexuality. And the aesthetic values of dress were defined in relation to the aesthetic values of body as ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty. Third, while the traditional Korean costume (Hanbok) pursues the aesthetic values of divinity and humanity of human body and ascetic beauty, pure beauty and natural beauty on the aesthetic values of humanity of human body and the pure beauty and natural beauty of dress. The contemporary Korean fashion expresses the aesthetic values of divinity, humanity and sexuality of human body and the aesthetic values of ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty of dress. In conclusion, the emphasis of sexuality of body and erotic beauty of dress in the modern Korean dress can be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korean by the influence of the western modernity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.430-441
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• 1997

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 21, No. 2 (1997) p. 430∼441 Clothing fitness is strongly required in the apparel industry, and draping is an effective tool to increase fitness to the wearers. A more sophisticated and systematic information of the somatotype, accordingly, is necessary for better dress form design. This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle-aged women's somatotypes for dress form designers by classifying the torso somatotype and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. The subjects were directly measured anthropometrically and indirectly analyzed photo- graphically. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis and analysis of variance. On the basis of the cluster analysis, using 7 factors cores the subjects were classified into four groups and four dress forms for middle-aged women were constructed. 8y the analysis of moire topography of proposed dress forms that were constructed according to the characteristics and silhouettes of front and lateral views for each somatotype of subjects, three-dimensional characteristics of somatotype and overlapped crosssection diagrams were analyzed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.834-843
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• 2020

This study develops 1/2 dress forms for draping. This study investigated the production status of domestic and foreign products in order to model their shape using CLO 3D. In addition, it developed torso-type and torso-crotch-type products that allowed for draping using a 3D printer. This study analyzed shape and size compared to developed ones after referring to the Size Korea 7th Survey data as well as seven domestic and foreign company websites. The results are follows. First, an investigation of the production status of the products for the size of most of the domestic ones (except K-4) indicated that the waist circumference was slimmer than Size Korea. Bust, waist, and hip circumferences ranged from 42.0 cm, 32.0 cm, and 45.0 cm - 49.0 cm, respectively, in Chinese products; 42.0 cm - 43.0 cm, 30.5 cm - 31.5 cm, and 46.0 cm - 46.5 cm in Japanese products; 43.0 cm, 35.0cm, and 46.5 cm in American products (Japanese body shape applied). Second, an avatar was produced on a 3D software with the average size of 20-24year-old women, and its file modified as a dress form for 3D printing with PLA filament to produce dress forms for draping, workable with pins, using quilting cotton and cotton cloth. Third, the comparisons of the form and flattening between the developed dress forms and the selling ones indicated that flattening was bigger in the waist part of the former than the latter. The waist is produced too slim in the existing dress forms; therefore, it is necessary to correct the waist circumference. Unlike existing dress forms, the developed ones were produced in proximity to the average size of 20-24 year-old women in the Size Korea 7th Survey.