• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.61-68
• /
• 2000

In recognition of the necessity to research on dresses of the past to lead future fashion, this study is focused on plastron basque that has constructed or decorated upper garments in various forms from the ancient times to modern times. Especially through reproduction and restoration of Victorian dress with plastron basque, the study approaches the problem in positive manner, As a result, studied 1887∼9 day dress is a plastron of pouched style with pleats panel in front center connected to jacket style bodice by buttons: and it shows changes into modern day dress form by constructing fitted line with decorative effects. By actually making the plastron that was only seen in picture, we expect this study will be a valuable resource for developing patterns, sewing and decoration techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.41-45
• /
• 1980

We must identify the forms of dress devised throughout ages, when we wtudy, interpret and analyze the numerous resource material of costume. The study which depends on reference to actual artifacts is necessarily limited. Whereas items of contemporary dress are readily available, much from earlier eras has been destroyed or has deteriorated through time. Such as cottons, linens, silks, wools, leathers and furs are perishable organic materials. Few garments dated earlier than seventeenth century has survived except armor, jewelry. We have many sources of the information are available to study on costume of earlier eras. These sources are wall paintings, sculptures, painting, monumental brasses, manuscript illustration ceramics, coins, medals, mosaics, archives, literature. Wall painting and frescoes provided an useful source for costume study. Many wall paintings and frescoes were destroyed, were changed in color. It si advisable to interpret the dress detail, form color carefully. Sculpture would be useful to see the back and side views of dress. One of the most important points which should be made abut the use of sculpture as a source for costume study in early periods is that the sculptor's style will often change the character of a costume. As the painting si two-dimensional evidence for a three-dimensional costume, paintings must be accurately studied. What we must do, as far as we can, is to look at all visual representations in the light of other contemporary evidence in order to interpret the information correctly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.31
• /
• pp.47-60
• /
• 1997

As we analyzed the formalities of court dress during King Soonjo's rule through the characters depicted in $\boxDr$Wangseja Chulgungdo$\boxUl$(The Painting for a Crown Prince's Outgoing for Schooling to Sungkyunkwan) the results were as follows: People wore their appropriate full dress ac-cording to the ceremonial procedures. In the case of a Crown Prince normally the wore Gongjungchaek(a hat) (after the coming-of-age ceremony Iksunkwan) and Gonryongpo(imperial clothes) to show his status as a Crown Prince. He wore chugkumbok(a Coat) to indicate a Crown Prince as being a student. on an occasion of celebration a Crown Prince wore Wonyugwan and Gangsapo to provide him with prestige and as a sign of respect for the occasion. The teacher of a Crown Prince also wore Gongbok and Sangbok accoding to the dress requirements of the ceremonies. We can confirm that the Gongbok system of all government officials had been main-tained in the late Chosun dynasty. We know that the form of ceremonies be-came simplified in the late Chosun dynasty. it was recorded that students had to wear Chungkumbok. but we knew from the painting that students actually wore Dopo(a traditonal korean coat). We knew through this painting that the court dress rules of the late Chosun dynasty varied that previously known. As we concluded above research on the his-tory of costume by analyzing paintings both supplements our knowledge of the topic and confirms the deficiency in the study of the his-tory of costume based solely upon literature and books.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Marine Engineers Conference
• /
• 2000.11a
• /
• pp.15-20
• /
• 2000

Filament winding process is a comparatively simple operation in which continuous reinforcements in the form of roving are wound over a rotating mandrel. And it is now well established as a versatile method for storage tanks and pipe for the chemical and other industries. In this study, tensile strength of a filament wound ring specimens were evaluated by split disk test fixture and dress disk test fixture. The results obtained from experiments were compared with the theoretical values obtained by the rule of mixtures in composites . And the purpose of this paper is the suggestion of an appropriate test method for the evaluation of tensile properties of filament wound structures. The tensile strength of a ring specimen tested by the dress disk test showed better agreement with the theoretical values than that of a ring specimen tested by the split disk test because the stress concentration in edges of a split disk test fixture is more severe than that of dress disk test fixture. The results showed that the tensile strength of a ring specimen was influenced by the geometry of test fixture, the continuity of fibers, fiber-tension, fiber-end and stress concentration in specimen.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.4
• /
• pp.85-95
• /
• 2004

The Purpose of this study was to find a phase of clothing in Korean proverb. The results of the analysis of this research was as follows： In the case of headgear, was expose that symbolize handsomeness, conduct of life, personality that display charm and position which is not usage as only head protection. Upper wear was expressing aspect and person's similarity, and was symbolizing conduct of life by meaning of dress and its ornaments according to a person that dress displays that change. Trousers(bottom wear) was expose that it means aspect or conduct of life(a 4 case, 40％) through site. Overcoat showed that overcoat that is clothes that is symbolizing wearer's situation, aspect and wear most on face because is involved with behavior that is not right in clothes usage is used by standard that foretell personality. Underwear can know that expressed being involved with right behavior, nature by the basic clothes. I was able to know that I express an attitude of a life or a form through shoe, and the accessories won an minor order but that I have a large influence on a character or the appearance of a person. Silk fabrics expresses Position, and hemp cloth expressed by symbol that display ability. Also, silk fabrics had meaning that hint person's background. Dress and its ornaments that is used in proverb by these result can know that have function as symbolic symbol that display Person's nature or situation, aspect that is wearing clothes that is not function as only simple clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.173-189
• /
• 1995

purpose of this study is to analyze the various phenomenon related to the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress, which is impossible to describe with only functionalism, practically and objectivism of aesthetic value for dress based on Karl Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of ugliness from the middle of 1980's to present. In other words, the ugliness had been selected and erected as the opposite meaning of beauty to head toward ultimate beauty, and clarify that ultimate beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty and ugliness. First, the ugliness and Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of Ugliness had been examined theoretically in the aspect of the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress and aesthetic category. The relationship between the artistic styles related to ugliness, such as Avant-garde, Primitivism of Expressionism, Grotesque, Decadence, Kitsch, Pastich\ulcornerParody, from the late 19c to present, and the dresses representing the ugly look such as Cyber Punk, Exotic look, Detester, Grunge, Hip-hop, etc, of 1990's had been studied by using photographic materials. In this study, the basic concepts of ugliness, including formlessness, inaccuracy and deformation, formed by K. Rosencrantz had been used to reveal the interaction between modem costume and the theory of ugliness.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society For Composite Materials Conference
• /
• 2000.11a
• /
• pp.203-207
• /
• 2000

Filament Winding Process is a comparatively simple operation in which continuous reinforcements in the form of roving are wound over a rotating mandrel. And now well established as a versatile method for storage tanks and pipe for the chemical and other industries . In this study, tensile strength of a filament wound ring specimens were evaluated by split disk test fixture and dress disk test fixture , The results obtained from experiments were compared with the theoretical values obtained by the rule of mixtures. And the purpose of this paper is the suggestion of an appropriate test method for the evaluation of tensile properties of filament wound structures .The tensile strength of a ring specimen tested by the dress disk test showed better agreement with the theoretical values than of a ring specimen tested by the split disk test because the stress concentration in edges of a split disk test fixture is more severe than that of dress disk test fixture. The results showed that the tensile strength of a ring specimen was influenced by the geometry of test fixture, the continuity of fibers, fiber-tension, fiber-end and stress concentration in specimen.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.136-152
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to provide dress forms and jacket blocks for adult males based on the analysis of their somatotypes. As the result of the research conducted for this study that was based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 years-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth. Also, master sizes were selected considering appearance frequency. XS type (master size: height 165cm and chest circumference 88cm), Yd type (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 91cm), YI and AD2 types (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and their jacket blocks in this study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were produced base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New jacket blocks for XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were developed based on the body surface developments through draping and the results of comparative investigation on the existing jacket blocks by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new jacket blocks were provided. 3. The sensory evaluation by wearing test showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly in terms of chest's allowance, the front width's allowance, neck wrinkle, front allowance and overall appearance's fitness items than existing jacket blocks.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.26 no.6
• /
• pp.14-31
• /
• 2022

Worn by both males and females the kimono is the national dress of Japan. Previous research highlights that this national dress is fading from tradition and evolves to develop with the times and fashion trends. This research aims to investigate what a kimono represents both historically and currently within Western society. The idea of the kimono being more than a national dress representing Japan, the main three themes researched will be (1) Shape (2) Narrative (3) Journey from East to West. Based on both primary and secondary sources this research indicates that there is a strong relationship between the universal increase of kimono wearers in Eastern and Western societies from history through to present day. Primary research is utilised in the form of two types of interviews. Primary outcomes bring a personal perspective to how and why kimono is worn nowadays within Europe. Secondary sources include online lectures held by kimono specialists as well as subject relevant books. From the 19th century where the Dutch were the only European country to trade with Japan, an exchange of fabrics took place which later led to the exchange of: fit, fashion and pattern (primarily within Western womenswear fashion.) This distinct garment never gets discontinued and evolves with social demands within society today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.36 no.1
• /
• pp.99-111
• /
• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).