• Title/Summary/Keyword: Draping

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An Analysis of Pattern-Related Works of Designer's Brand in Korea - for Draping - (국내 디자이너브랜드 업체의 패턴업무 실태 분석 - 입체재단을 중심으로 -)

  • 신장희;나수임
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.11 no.2
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    • pp.208-218
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of the study is to identify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high duality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.

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Comparison of Torso Pattern Made by Draping and Flat Pattern Method - Based on the Comparison between 75A and 75D according to the Size of Breast - (입체 재단과 평면 재단 방식의 토루소 원형 비교 - 유방 크기 75A와 75D를 중심으로 -)

  • Yoon, Ji-Hyun;Park, Kil-Soon
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.18 no.5
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    • pp.892-907
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.

A Study on Application for Dress Form Made from a Replica Method - A Comparison of the Satisfaction of Fit of Basic Dresses Using the Draping and Flat Pattern Methods

  • Shim Kue-Nam
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.97-104
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    • 2005
  • In this research, the fit of basic dresses was examined, by analyzing and comparing the satisfaction of fitness of basic dresses made by the draping method on a custom-made replica body form and that of a basic dress made by the flat pattern method. Basis dresses were produced by the draping method for each 52 subjects using custom-made body forms, and another kind basic dresses for each subjects were produced by the flat pattern method using measurements of body sizes. Both basic dresses received high scores for the satisfaction of fit, but the basic dresses produced by draping method received higher scores. Thus it is expected to produce a more successful fit by draping a basic dress on a custom-made body form. Future research using more subjects might confirm these results. A more concrete analysis through using additional satisfaction tests could be conducted. For example, each subject might also serve as an evaluator to rate her satisfaction of fit wearing each of the two custom-made dresses. Finally, examining various body forms is suggested.

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Micro-Deformation of Tows According to Foam Density and Shear Angle During Hemisphere Draping Process (반구형 드레이핑 공정 중 포움의 밀도와 전단각에 따른 토우의 미세변형)

  • Chung Jee-Gyu;Chang Seung-Hwan
    • Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers A
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    • v.30 no.7 s.250
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    • pp.849-856
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    • 2006
  • In this paper, fabric composite draping on hemisphere moulds were studied to find out the deformation behaviour of micro-tow structures of fabrics during draping and thermoforming. Aluminium and PVC foams were used to fabricate the hemisphere moulds for draping tests. In order to observe the local tow deformation pattern during the draping several specimens for microscopic observation were sectioned from the draped hemisphere structures. The effect of forming condition and mould properties on tow deformation was investigated by the microscopic observation of the tow parameters such as crimp angle. Normalization scheme was performed to compare tow parameter variations with different forming conditions. Stress-strain .elations of two different PVC foams (HT70 and HT110) were tested to investigate the effect of foam property on the micro-tow deformation during forming.

A Study of Wearing Fitness of Jacket Design and Analysis of Flat Pattern and Draping (재킷 디자인의 입체와 평면 패턴분석 및 외관 적합성 분석에 관한 연구)

  • Seo, Wan-Seuk;Kim, Sook-Jin
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.18 no.2
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    • pp.101-113
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    • 2016
  • This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

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A Comparative Study of the Flat Jacket Pattern and the Draping Jacket Pattern for the 20's Female (20대 여성재킷원형의 평면재단법과 입체재단법 비교)

  • Kim, Hee-Jin;Lee, Young-Ju
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.53-61
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this study was to compare the flat pattern with the draping pattern for the jacket. The results of this study were as follows: 1) According to the sensory evaluation for the movement, P2 flat pattern was more comfortable than the draping pattern at 88-94(N)-160 (77size). 2) The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern for the collar at 82-90(N)-160(55size), 85-92(N)-160(66size) and 88-94(N)-160(77size). 3) The draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern in the sensory evaluation for the front and back. 4) Lee Hyung-Suck's flat pattern (P1) was better in appearance than the P2 and the draping pattern (P3) for the side sensory evaluation at 82-90(N)-160(55size) and 85-92(N)-160(66size).

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A Comparative Analysis of the Draping Method in Basic Bodice (베이직 바디스 입체재단법 비교 분석)

  • Kim, Young-Mi;Jang, Jeong-Ah
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.20 no.6
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    • pp.713-721
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    • 2018
  • This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

A Comparative Study of the Flat Pattern with the Draping Pattern for the Slacks Pattern of Obesity Women (비만체형의 슬랙스 원형설계를 위한 평면재단과 입체재단의 비교 연구)

  • Lee, Young-Ju
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.289-299
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study was to develop slacks pattern for obesity women through comparing the flat pattern with the draping pattern. The results were as follows: 1. In the result of the comparative investigation on pattern and sensory evaluation, it was found that the draping pattern had better comfort and appearance. Especially, as the lower part of the body is more obese and the expansion ratio of the body is higher, the draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern in the sensory evaluation. 2. In the result of sensory evaluation, it was found that the proper ease of total crotch length was $2{\sim}3%$ of actual total crotch length.

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A case study of problem-based learning (PBL) in classes (PBL을 활용한 <드레이핑> 교과 수업사례 및 학습효과 연구)

  • Kang, Yeo Sun
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.29 no.3
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    • pp.346-360
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    • 2021
  • Universities have recently introduced problem-based learning (PBL) to various subjects to enhance problem-solving skills (including self-directed learning and small-group learning) required in industry. The PBL module was applied to the personal production process in a draping class. A study was based on a questionnaire after conducting two PBL modules with a group of students. Each PBL module included 'design analysis', 'presentation of flat sketch and draping plan', 'discussion of the plan', 'evaluation of the draping result and correcting the problem', and 'final evaluation of the completed project'. Results showed that satisfaction with the PBL method and its activities was higher than satisfaction with existing teaching methods. In particular, among the various components, the 'design analysis' and 'the presentation step of flat sketch and draping plan' stages were more helpful to students compared to small-group discussion. Moreover, the effects of PBL were observed through student reflection essays, in which students suggested that PBL was very effective in enhancing problem-solving through self-directed and small-group learning. Despite the overall satisfaction with PBL, students expressed some minor difficulties associated with awkwardness with a novel learning method, lack of diverse perspectives among each group, and poor communication skills. Therefore, the study shows that PBL is highly likely to be useful to students when they are solving pattern drafting problems and making samples through self-directed learning and small-group learning.

Implementation of 2.5D Mapping System for Fashion Design (패션디자인을 위한 2.5D맵핑 시스템의 구현)

  • Lee, Min-Kyu;Kim, Young-Un;Cho, Jun-Ei;Han, Sung-Kuk;Jung, Sung-Tae;Lee, Yong-Ju;Jung, Suck-Tae
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Information and Commucation Sciences Conference
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.599-602
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    • 2005
  • This paper utilizing model picture of finished clothes in fashion design field various material (textile fabrics) doing Draping directly can invent new design, and do not produce direction sample or poetic theme width and confirm clothes work to simulation. Also, construct database about model and material image that can confirm Mapping result by real time. Development did the 2.5D Mapping system that used path extraction algorithm, warp algorithm, a lighting extraction and application algorithm in order to implement natural Draping of model picture and material image.

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