• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.15-24
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• 2015

Dahoe is a traditional Korean term for cords and Dongdahoe for round cords. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the structure of a semi-automatic loom depicted in the paintings of Jun Geun Kim, and verify whether it actually worked or not. Jun Geun Kim is a genre painter of the late Joseon Dynasty. His nom de plume is Gisan and he drew genre paintings for foreigners who visited Korea in the late 19th century. These paintings are important in understanding the lifestyle and custom of the times. His paintings at the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin in Germany and the British Museum in England both depict a semi automatic loom that operates two looms at the same time. This is a unique loom that is not found in any other country and currently no artifacts of such loom exist in Korea. The study went through the following steps: We first analyzed the structure and the operating mechanism of the loom in the painting. The structure of each parts and their roles were also analyzed. Then a loom that was similar in structure and size was made to check if it was operational. The loom depicted in the paintings had some problems, and adjustments to fix the said problems were made accordingly. Wood was primarily used to make the $80{\times}90cm$ loom. The loom was used to make Dahoe and the study confirmed that there were no differences between the handmade Dongdahoe and the Dongdahoe made with the semi automatic loom.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.133-148
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• 2016

This study examined dahoe(多繪-braided cord) and mangsu(網綬-ornament of husu for ceremonial dress) used in myeon gwan(冕冠), daedae(大帶), and husu(後綬) among royal formal dresses in the Joseon Dynasty(1392-1910) based on historical materials including literature, relics, and paintings. The results of this study are as follows. In myeon-gwan, dahoe was used for cap strings, goeing(紘) and yeong(纓). Cap strings were applied to the king, the Crown Prince, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince regardless of their status, and they showed differences among the periods. Both goeing and yeong were used during the early period of Joseon, and then only yeong was used in the late period. As goeing was removed and only yeong was used in the late period, patterns combining goeing and yeong, in color and wearing method, appeared. Dahoe used in cap strings is dongdahoe(童多繪-a kind of braided cord). In daedae, 'nyuyak(紐約)' was tied up to its fastening part. The material of nyuyak was changed from dongdahoe in the early Joseon Dynasty to guangdahoe(廣多繪-a kind of braided cord) in the late period, and the method of using it was also changed. Husu was imported from Beijing in China during the early period of the Joseon Dynasty, but in 1747, it was regulated to be woven in Joseon, and at that time, King Yeongjo attempted to restore the institution of weaving husu with "320 su(首)," namely, 6,400 strands as specified for the status of a prince of the Ming Dynasty.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.17
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• pp.69-84
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• 2016

Yuso is the term for decorative tassels of a braided string which hangs a scroll painting. This study, drawing on extant research concerning the yuso made for Joseon period portrait scrolls of kings and meritorious retainers, focuses on the yuso created to hang literati portraits. Concretely, It examines yuso of seven portraits in the collection of the National Museum of Korea in order to characterize their appearance and determine their material composition. The study found that most of the yuso are sixteen-strand strings braided into a rounded cross-section(dongdahoe). The seven yuso, of which six are red and one indigo-blue, reflect the popular style associated with Joseon period literati portraits. The yuso for the portrait of Yun Geup(duksu 3503) is made from gilded paper. Analysis showed Fe particles present in a red pigment underlying the gold layer, suggesting the presence of red ochre(seokganju), an iron oxide mineral. The yuso of the portrait of Shin Im(duksu 4846) is used a paper which contains gold as well as traces of Pb, Hg and Ag. The paper in the yuso for the portrait of Yi Seongwon(bongwan 10122) mainly consisted of Ag, indicating silver paper having been used in its fabrication. The inner paper in the yuso of the portrait of Yi Seogu(sinsu 1065) is a leather combined with Ag, Fe, and Br, according to chemical analysis. The FTIR of the leather sample reveals that the spectrum in the fingerprint region is nearly identical to that of sheepskin, indicating the yuso was made from gold-coated sheepskin.