• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.250-258
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• 2012

The distribution of wave heights is assumed to be a Rayleigh distribution, based on the assumption of a narrow band and Gaussian distribution of wave elevation. The present study was started with doubts about the narrow band assumption. We selected the wave spectra widely used to simulate irregular random waves. The wave spectra used in this study included the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu spectrum, and JONSWAP spectrum. The directionality of the waves was considered. The cosine 2-l type directional spreading function and mixed form of the half-cosine 2-s type with Mitsuyasu type directional spreading are considered here to investigate the effects of a directional spreading function on random waves. The simulated wave height distribution is compared with a Rayleigh distribution.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.28-36
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• 2000

Numerical simulation based on the superposition of ring waves generated by the linear periodic source distributions for the plunger type wave maker was accomplished. The characteristics of directional spreading function were investigated. Mirror images are also introduced to consider reflections of side-wall together with the reflection coefficient to account for the imperfect reflection from the real side wall in the long experimental towing tank. Unexpected spurious waves, resulting from the combined effect of finite breadth of segmented wave maker, wavelength and main wave maker, wavelength and main wave propagating direction, were observed in the line source method and also in the analysis of the directivity. The influence of spurious waves to the directional spreading function was also investigated.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.437-446
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• 2003

Field measurements of directional waves were carried out during the summer of 2002 at two coastal sites in water of finite depth. A couple of general purpose instruments were used employing acoustic Doppler technology. The aim of the study was to investigate the spatial behavior of the directional movement of waves as they come ashore. In total,74 tests were carried out during which sea states of low to moderate intensity were recorded. A great number of these runs displayed bimodal characteristics of the spreading function at high frequencies. It was found that in general, the frequency-integrated directional width tends to broaden as the water shoals and when refraction effects are negligible. This is attributed to wave-wave interactions that become pronounced in shallow water. The same directional width showed, also, a tendency to increase with increasing peak frequency of the sea state spectrum. The behavior of the kurtosis of the spreading function was also examined. It was found that for higher frequencies this index tends to increase in wave spectra above a certain sea severity threshold.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.28-33
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• 2013

해안선에 비스듬히 입사하는 다방향 불규칙파랑은 굴절에 의해 방향 비대칭성이 발생한다. 방향 비대칭은 최대 방향분포 매개변수($s_{max}$)와 연관된 비대칭 매개변수의 항으로 표현된다. 본 연구에서는 심해에서 다양한 주파향각과 최대 방향분포 매개변수 등의 특징을 갖는 다방향 불규칙파랑에 대해 수심 변화에 따른 비대칭 매개변수와 최대 방향분포 매개변수의 변화를 계산하였다. 계산 값들은 파랑의 방항 비대칭성을 무시한 Goda and Suzuki(1975)에 의한 결과와는 다르다. 비대칭 매개변수와 최대 방향분포 매개변수의 계산을 위해 JONSWAP 스펙트럼(Hasselmamn et al., 1973)과 Lee et al.(2010)의 방향 분포 함수를 사용하였다. 계산 과정과 결과들은 일반화를 위해 심해에서의 유의파고, 첨두주기, 첨두주기에 해당하는 파장 등으로 무차원화 하였다.

• 대한조선학회논문집
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2001

본 논문은 소오스 분포법(Source Distribution Method)을 사용하여 측벽 반사효과를 고려한 수치파수조에서의 방향스펙트럼파의 재현과 규칙파로부터 구해진 조파기의 진폭 전달함수를 적용시켜 부산대학교 예인수조에서 실험적으로 재현한 장파정 불규칙파 및 방향스펙트럼파에 대한 연구결과이다. 수치적 재현의 경우 최적의 조파기 설계를 위하여 파 주기의 변화에 따라 조파판과 수조폭을 변화시켜 방향분포함수의 변화를 고찰하였다. 실험적 재현의 경우 장파정 불규칙파와 방향스펙트럼파에 대해서 수조의 길이방향 변화에 따른 파워 스펙트럼 및 통계적 특성치를 비교하여 그 차이점을 살펴보았다. 방향스펙트럼파의 경우 방향분포함수의 변화도 살펴보았다.

• 대한조선학회논문집
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• 제41권1호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2004

GUI program for analyzing directional spectrum waves is introduced in this paper Basically, MLM (Maximum Likelihood Method) was used for this program which was additionally consisted of performing spectral and time domain analysis for two dimensional irregular waves. Moreover, the directionality of directional spectrum waves generated by single summation and double summation method was investigated based on MLM. The directionality from each summation method has good agreement compared with that of target wave spreading function in the case of single wide directional spectrum waves. In addition to this, the resolution of directionality in double summation method was investigated as introducing coherence function between each wave component

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer between wave components, during the directional wave breakings, are investigated. Directional incipient and plunging breakers were generated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location, based on a constant wave amplitude and a constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The time series of surface wave elevation was measured at 9 different locations around the wave focusing point, using a wave gauge array. In order to examine the variation of the directional spreading function, the horizontal velocity of fluid motion was also measured. By comparing energy spectrums, before and after the breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer, caused by wave breaking, are investigated. Their dependencies on directionality, as well as frequency, are analyzed. The breakings significantly dissipate wave energy, through energy transfer, in the upper region of the peak-frequency band, while enhancing wave energy in the low-frequency band.

• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.14-24
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• 2015

A three-dimensional multidirectional nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) based on the Navier-Stokes equations and the Finite Volume Method (FVM) is developed by using the two-phase hydrodynamic flow solver naoe-FOAM-SJTU based on the open source toolbox OpenFOAM. The free surface is capturing with the Volume Of Fluids (VOF). The directional wave including Stokes wave, solitary wave and nonlinear wave are simulated and verified. The multi-directional waves are also simulated with particular wave spectral such as JONSWAP and wave directional spreading function. The obtained numerical results show the capability of the solver to generate different type of multidirectional nonlinear waves accurately. Meanwhile, it implies that the presented NWT can easily extend to model the wave-structures interactions, which will be great help to the offshore structures design.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.49-56
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• 2014

A three-dimensional multidirectional nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) based on the Navier-Stokes equations and the Finite Volume Method (FVM) is developed by using the two-phase hydrodynamic flow solver naoe-FOAM-SJTU based on the open source toolbox OpenFOAM. The free surface is capturing with the Volume Of Fluids (VOF). The directional wave including Stokes wave, solitary wave and nonlinear wave are simulated and verified. The multi-directional waves are also simulated with particular wave spectral such as JONSWAP and wave directional spreading function. The obtained numerical results show the capability of the solver to generate different type of multidirectional nonlinear waves accurately. Meanwhile, it implies that the presented NWT can easily extend to model the wave-structures interactions, which will be great help to the offshore structures design.

• 대한조선학회논문집
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• 제60권4호
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• pp.266-277
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• 2023

In this study, fundamental research is conducted for the generation technique and analysis of multi-directional irregular waves in the Deep Ocean Engineering Basin (DOEB). A three-dimensional boundary element method-based numerical tank is implemented to perform wave generation simulations, and directional spectrum estimation is carried out using the results of simulations. The wave generation technique of the Snake type wave maker, generating multi-directional irregular waves, is implemented using the Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) and Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT) algorithms. The wave generation technique is validated by comparing the wave spectrum from simulations and experiments. A Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) based estimation code is developed for estimating the directional wave spectra. The multi-directional irregular waves are tested in the DOEB and the numerical tank, and directional wave spectra obtained from two methodologies are estimated and compared. A correction procedure for the directional distribution of multi-directional waves is established, and the possibility of correcting the directional spreading function using the numerical tank is validated.