• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.62-68
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• 1999

The study has examined about the origin and change of traditional Japanese dress "Kosode" and classified it according to its ages and also classified its patterns which appeared on the Kosode by its kinds, and divide the patterns with constituent method and expressional method and so, studied and analyzed them with type of patterns according to the change of the times. The result of research were as follows: 1. Subject of patterns that appeared on the Kosode was used with mainly plant pattern, animals pattern, pictorial pattern, artificial pattern, and abstract patterns. 2. Expressional method of this patterns was mostly expressed simply with tie dyeing in ancient times, but it changed complex its expressional method and diversely due to the development of common's culture as time goes on. 3. For the arrangement of its pattern were arranged regularly mostly make demarcate and though they are as if seemed dispersed, but a characteristic that can find regulations in it. 4. Transition of patterns that appeared on the Kosode it developed at the beginning of ancient syouboon, Katasuso pattern and Katamigaori patterns at the samurai's society in the medieval society and developed to Koicho kosode and Kambun kosode in modern times.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.112-120
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop Andongpo apparel pattern design connected with the Apparel CAD system. It includes pattern making, grading, marking program. In this study, it will be able to make apparel pattern quickly and accurately by using Apparel CAD system. The results were as following : Computerization of the pattern making process is expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in apparel pattern making for narrow and expensive Andongpo. ESMOD pattern making method was selected as basic pattern. Tailored jacket patterns were developed for Andongpo. Refer to and . The jacket patterns developed is automatically depicted by inputting consumer's body size. Tailored jacket patterns for Andongpo were marked by using marking program in Apparel CAD system. The efficiency of marking appeared of 70% or more in Andongpo jacket patterns. This results is showed it has an effect on narrow and expensive Andongpo. 3tailored jacket patterns will be able to make a simulation by 3D Apparel CAD system. The results of this study is expected to provide higher consumer's satisfaction and internet brand launching. In addition, encouraging majority of the young to participate in using CAD program for Andongpo is regarded as beneficial for the reinforcement of competitiveness of traditional clothing business.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.692-704
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• 2007

Recently, Basic patterns with excellent body fitness and automation availability are required to be developed in order to automate the patterns of women's clothes. In this study, this reference points, reference lines and segments were fixed onto 3D scan data for the lower body the women in their twenties, they were directly spread out to be 2D flat pattern to facilitate development into the design of slacks adhered closely to the human body such as special and highly-functional clothes, and then slacks 2D pattern was developed for the purpose of seeking scientific approach to the development into basic form slacks and 3d emotional pattern. For conversion of 3D pattern into 2D flat pattern, reference points and segments were created by using Rapid Form of 3D shape analysis software, and triangle mesh of the body surface of the created shape was developed with Auto CAD 2005. The correspondence between slacks and human body was examined by the fixation of major reference lines. Specially, the wearing characteristics of slacks were considered by the fixation of side lines in consideration of posture. As a result of using the way of development to constantly maintain the length while 3D triangle mesh is converted into 2D flat mesh, the shape was shown to be excellently reproduced, and the area of flat pattern was increased compared to the shape of parting plane. Also, the sunk-in curve like the brief line of front crotch length needed a cutting line when it was closely adhered, when mesh was overlapped, and the pattern area was smaller compared to the actual shape.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.9-18
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• 1982

In this study, we attempted to make an original pattern of clothing for an abnormal type of figure, especially for the type of kyphosis. We measured the curvature of the spine of a woman with kyphosis with a Martin measuring instrument and a silhouetter in the following ways. First, we counted the rate of shrinkage of the standard lines drawn on the surface of the body according as the body moved. Secondly, placing the front and back darts, the front and back shoulder darts and the side darts according to“Munhwa”pattern, we made cubic cuttings of four moving postures as well as the standing one. Thirdly, we superposed the developed patterns of the standing and the moving postures, measuring the position change and the amount of the chaange of the darts, and compared them. The results are as follows: 1) In the developed pattern of a cubic cutting of the basic pattern and the standing posture, the neckhole became larger than that of the basic pattern, and the waist line was lowered than that of the basic pattern because the center back line was shortened due to the curved backbone. 2) As for the change of the standard line according to the movement, we found that the waist line, the center front line, the center back line, the bust width line, the upper back width line and the back width line became longer. Special consideration must be given to the function of the clothing for an abnormal type of figure. 3) The difference of the measurements between the cubic cutting and the body measurement regardless of the body movement is due to a gap by an acute angle at the jutted place between the developed pattern and the body surface. We found that the body measurement of the upper back width line, the back width line and the bust line became larger. Consequently, in making an original clothing pattern, it is desirable that we must not place the front and the back waist darts at the jutted place on the back from the functional and the aesthetic viewpoint of clothing. It is also desirable that we must widen the neckhole because the shoulder angle is close to a straight line due to a jut of the upper back width line.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1536-1543
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• 2004

Garment is made by a 2D pattern and should be fitted to a human body which has 3D characteristics. Therefore, to design a pattern more effectively, the use of 3D information of a human body and the investigation of relationship between the 3D garment and 2D pattern are necessary. In this work, ruled surface method was used to reflect the 3D information of a human body for a pattern design. The images of the brassiere line on the woman's dress form were captured by phase-shifting projection moire system and the 3D information on the design line was obtained. 2D patterns on the various parts of the brassiere were developed directly from the 3D data by the ruled surface method. In addition, design line, the area and the amount of dart were quantified. And then we verify the appropriateness of the ruled surface method to the 2D pattern development by measuring the distribution of the space between women's figure and segmented clothing item. It was found that the ruled surface method is useful to transform the 3D design line to the 2D pattern, if we followed the steps suggested in this paper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.2 s.24
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• pp.23-36
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• 1987

The purpose of the suudy was to develop a computer program for pattern mating of women's pant's. Computerization of the pattern making process was expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern mating. The VAX-11/750 Computer and the CALCOMP PLOTTER 965 were used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows : 1. A slacks pattern was selected. 2. The co-ordinate points were indicated relative location of all necessary in draffing. Total sixty co-ordinate points were instituted from (AX(1), AY(1)) to (AX(24), AY(24)), from (BX(1), BY(1)) to (BX(36), BY(36)). 3. A program for drafting was developed. Refer to (Table 3). 4. The procedures of drading of standard size were accomplished by using same method. The program was developed to drafting pattern for women by putting indivisual body measurement. The body measurements for stacks pattern were as follows : slacks length. Croach length. Hip length. nip circumference. waist circumference.

• Journal of Sasang Constitutional Medicine
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.251-261
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• 2014

Objectives This research was proposed to present Clinical Practice Guideline(CPG) for Soyangin Disease of Sasang Constitutional Medicine(SCM): Yin-Depletion (Mangeum) Symptomatology. The CPG was developed by the national-wide experts committee consisting of SCM professors. Methods The CPG was developed by the national-wide experts committee considering of the society of Sasang Constitutional Medicine. It was performed by search and collection of literature related SCM, opinion of SCM experts and journal search and it was followed by CPG's guideline. Results & Conclusions The CPG of Yin-Depletion (Mangeum) Symptomatology in Soyangin Disease include classification, definition and standard symptoms of each pattern. Yin-Depletion (Mangeum) Symptomatology is classified into severe and critical pattern by severity. The severe pattern of Yin-Depletion (Mangeum) Symptomatology is classified into the pattern of Heat-related diarrhea accompanied by headache (Sinyeol-dutong Mangeum) and the advanced pattern of Heat-related diarrhea accompanied by headache (Sinyeol-dutong Mangeum). The critical pattern of Yin-Depletion (Mangeum) Symptomatology is classified into the pattern of Cold-related diarrhea accompanied by the abdominal pain (Sinhan-bocktong Mangeum) and the advanced pattern of Cold-related diarrhea accompanied by abdominal pain (Sinhan-bocktong Mangeum).

• Journal of Korean Medicine for Obesity Research
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2016

Objectives: The purpose of this study was to develop Russian version of Korean obese pattern identification questionnaire (KOPIQ) and classify the pattern of Uzbekistan obese patients. Methods: This study was conducted from 10 September 2014 to 10 December 2014 in Korea-Uzbekistan Oriental Hospital. The KOPIQ was translated to Russian language with the help of local expert in Russia and Korean Medicine. The patients who visited obese clinic in hospital were guided to join this study and informed consent was obtained. The inclusion criteria was >$23kg/m^2$ in body mass index. The Cronbach's alpha was used for it's inter consistency reliability and the KOPIQ result was compared with the experts one. Results: The Russian version of KOPIQ was developed. The 103 patient (25 males, 78 females; average age 57.2 years) joined in this study. The Cronbach's alpha of questionnaire was 0.787~0.883 according to individual pattern. The agreement rate of pattern Identification between local expert and KOPIQ was 13%. This developed questionnaire was realized as web version, which could be easily used in Uzbekistan. Conclusions: The Russian version of KOPIQ is developed in this study with suitable reliability. Further study is needed for KOPIQ to be applied in Uzbekistan with high validity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.776-788
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• 2019

This study developed an ergonomic Korean female military winter jacket and (inner and outer) pattern in in order to increase dimension and operational suitability for military missions. First we developed the 1st development pattern and sample jackets with improved dimensions and operational suitability based on a previous investigation of fitness and motion suitability of Korean female military winter jackets (inner and outer) and motion suitability by a wearing test. The evaluation result of fitness for the 1st development pattern were over 4.0 (5.0 Likert scale) for both the inner and outer jacket, a positive result and the result of motion suitability were over 3.5 in both the inner and outer jacket except for the neck front part by collar height. However, we did not modify the collar height because decreases in warmth and military regulations. We also evaluated appearance by experts that showed good results in both the inner and outer jacket. Finally, we developed a final pattern based on evaluation results and military regulations. Existing military uniform research was conducted mainly on male soldiers. Beginning with this study, we expect to expand research on the development of military uniform patterns suitable for a female soldier body type.