• Journal of the Earthquake Engineering Society of Korea
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.41-52
• /
• 2007

Earthquake time-history analyses have been carried out for a buried gas pipeline of X65 which is of popular use in Korea. Parameters included are shape of a buried gas pipeline, soil characteristics, single and multiple earthquake input ground motions and burial depths. Predicted response of strain and relative displacement are then compared with allowable strain and displacement capacity calculated by Guidelines for the Seismic Design of Buried Gas Pipelines, KOGAS. Comparative studies show that strains are in general affected by the burial depths together with change of soil conditions. Regarding the relative displacement, while axial relative displacement is not influenced by the burial depths, transverse relative displacement is affected by both burial depths as well as soil conditions. In all, the current study is encouraged to give a useful information for healthy earthquake evaluation of a buried pipeline.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.9
• /
• pp.58-76
• /
• 2010

In this study, the shapes of po worn by military officers who served During the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592-1598) were investigated. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Various types of po that military officers usually wore during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea includes jikryeong, dapho, dopo, cheolik, aekjureum, jangeui, jungchimak and bangryeongpo. Out of these types, cheolik and jungchimak were most often used by the officers. Po that were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea as above mentioned is characterized as no difference in length between the front and back of the costume, kalgit and a pair of coat strings which are directly attached to po. The sleeves of the costume are bean chaff-shaped in some cases and just narrowly shaped in other cases. Similarly, the outer seop of po was either double-layered or single-layered. For jikryeong and dapho, mu is usually type of outside wrinkle. For dopo, its rear kit has the inner hem whose right and left edges are usually distant, respectively by 6~16cm, from the back center of the costume. Cheolik and aekjureum usually have either fine or broad pleats. For jangeui and jungchimak, mu is usually trapezoid in shape. Among various types of po which were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea, most representative are jikryeong from the tombs of Bae Cheon jo, dapho from Shin Yeo Gwan, dopo from general Bak and Bae Cheon Jo, cheolik from Nam Yoo and Cho Gyeong, aekjureum from Shin Yeo Gwan, jangeui from Kim Ham, jungchimak from Bae Cheon jo and bangryeongpo from Cho Gyeong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.7
• /
• pp.35-50
• /
• 2011

In this study, repression of the body is defined as a restriction on natural developments or movements and a modification either temporarily or permanently of the human body in shape, color, texture and odor. In addition, it involves physical and (or) mental pain. Chinese foot-binding and the Western corset are extreme examples of female body's being repressed in the history of fashion. The analysis of this type of repression will be based on historical research and theoretical concepts such as Darwin's (1809-1882) survival condition, Freud's (1856-1939) renunciation of desire, Weil's (1909-1943) privilege, and Foucault's (1926-1984) L'Usage des Plaisirs(the use of pleasure). Chinese foot-binding symbolically represents ideal beauty, the distinction of an ethnic group, and a desire for improved social status in the struggle for political power. It also represents psychology and a esthetics of eroticism and fetishism that originate from a man's desire and his individual taste. Symbolically, the Western corset represents abundance and fecundity, obedience and devotion to religion, the sanctity of God and ideal beauty as defined by political power. It also represents psychology and aesthetics of eroticism and fetishism as man's desire and a fashion icon. In conclusion, Chinese foot-binding was pursuit of power in male ideology but Western corset was a power struggle between God and mankind.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.8
• /
• pp.48-59
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this research is to develop a basic pattern of corset look taking into consideration characteristics of human body and fit, by transforming 3 dimensional information obtained from draping of standard body type of women in their 20s, which constitute the biggest consumer group of corset look in Korea, on the basis of body shape of women best reflecting 3 dimensional characteristics. In order to develop a corset look pattern suitable for standard body type of women in their 20s, wear tests of A, B, and C types of patterns in terms of the bust in the standard body type that bust circumference 86.7cm and chest circumference 87.0cm were evaluated best. Taking into consideration above findings, fer the purpose of developing a corset look pattern having an excellent fit and reflecting characteristics of Korean women in their 20s with standard body type, a corset look pattern was designed with proper ease calculated by draping incorporated, and through alteration and complementation of such a pattern, a study pattern was produced. This study is expected to provide tips for standard body type women in their 20s with smaller bust circumference to choose clothing allowing for a better fit able to make up for weakness of their body, while presenting to clothing makers ways of designing and size-setting in terms of characteristics of body type of these consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.8
• /
• pp.67-82
• /
• 2014

This research aims to explicate how we reveal our identity and emphasize beauty in our passion for beauty. It also attempts to find out our sense of beauty in exaggeration of visual expressions. The purpose is to represent how the contemporary knit fashion is various and exaggerated in our modern fashion world, and also to give the direction of new knitwear designs through the visual analysis of exaggerated knit fashion. Literature research was done by studying reference books and magazines, leading papers and based on a dissertation thesis. This study collected 787 designer's works published in the world's big Four collections from the 2000 S/S to 2011 S/S, in 23 seasons during 12 years. In answer to 9 experts about the criteria of classification, 520 works were chosen and analyzed according to the standard of exaggerated knitwear. The result of the study is the followings: The type of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion was classified in three categories; Enlarge exaggeration, reduce exaggeration and transform exaggeration. As a sub-category, enlarge exaggeration was classified into three categories; Volume expansion and the expansion by the material, gauge and larger composition application expansion. Reduce exaggeration appeared as mini-reduction, skinny-reduction and transform exaggeration was respectively classified into deformation of the shape and patterns. The characteristics of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion appeared as the new formative sense. In terms of fuller sense and surface, using various materials, gauge, changes in the composition represented challenges for textiles. The exaggerated contemporary knitwear expressed sex appeal using tight-fitting effect. Contemporary knit fashion simplified the design by taking advantage of the strong elastic attributes. It showed the beauty of women, expressed variability and limitless knit characteristics beyond the conventional thinking. In addition, it has been well represented as a form of freedom, amusement and diversity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.9
• /
• pp.51-67
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style that were excavated from the tombs of the Yeosan Song family. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Except Dapho, all of the above mentioned coat were usually worn in the late 15th and late 16th centuries. Jikryeong and Cheolik were often worn in both of the centuries. But Aekjureum was often worn in the late 15th century and Jikryeong with no side hem and Jikryeong of Dopo style, in the late 16th century. Generally, the men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style had a short fore part and a long rear part, doubled kalgit of banmokpan style and a narrow sleeve in the late 15th century, while fore and rear parts of the same length, kalgit of ordinary style and the sleeve of bean chaff shape in the late 16th century. In both of the centuries, the coat had the outer Seop that was doubled and used short, narrow coat strings to be adjusted. Samgakmu was used to Jikryeong with no side hem and Aekjureum. Out of the coat, those which were lined or padded or quilted with cotten used Samgakmu, but those which were unlined didn't. To adjust the coat, usually, a pair of short, narrow coat strings was used. The coat had the coat strings directly stitched on them or indirectly connected to them by means of the coat string hanger.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.80-88
• /
• 2006

This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.3
• /
• pp.335-341
• /
• 2008

This study aims to present the basic information on ready-made clothes production for middle-aged women by examining the clothing-related problems due to the body-shape changes of middle-aged women, and accordingly analyzing the satisfaction level with the purchasing and size of ready-made clothes among the 40-50's women. For this study, a survey was conducted to find out the satisfaction level with the purchasing and size of ready-made clothes. Among the total of 450 copies of questionnaires, 443 were collected, 400 of which were used in the analysis leaving out the rest imperfect ones. SPSS 11.0 Program was used in data analysis to get the frequency and percentage of each item. As for the preferred styles according to the age, respondents aged 45-49 preferred sweaters and trousers most, while most of middle-aged women preferred blouses and trousers most. As for the preferred styles according to occupations and body figures, most of middle-aged women preferred blouses and trousers most. The findings of this study examining the actual conditions of ready-made clothes purchase and wearing, and size satisfaction among the 40-50's women, who will be at the center of the aging populations in the Super-aged society highlight the need to correct the problems of adherence only to the prices, measures, and aesthetic aspects of fashion trends, to meet the requirements and preferences of ready-made clothes for aging women, and fulfill satisfactory functions according to the body figures in the upcoming Super-aged society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Propulsion Engineers
• /
• v.17 no.5
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2013

Variable area nozzle, where both throat and exit area vary, is required for optimal expansion and optimal nozzle shape upon operation of after-burner. Steady-state and transient analyses are carried out for each condition with and without afterburner operation and as a function of the location of the nozzle flap. Effects of that nozzle displacement on flow and thrust characteristics are analyzed from numerical results. With variable area nozzle adopted, the combustion field is variable in time, leading to periodically variable thrust. For off-design conditions, flow separation shows up due to over expansion at the flap tips and shock wave does in the nozzle due to under expansion. The undesirable phenomena can be solved by control of variable area nozzle.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
• /
• v.53 no.2
• /
• pp.227-248
• /
• 2015

A CFPBS (Cone-type Friction Pendulum Bearing System) was developed to control the acceleration delivered to a structure to prevent the damage and degradation of critical communication equipment during earthquakes. This study evaluated the isolation performance of the CFPBS by numerical analysis. The CFPBS was manufactured in the shape of a cone differenced with the existing FPS (Friction Pendulum System), and a pattern was engraved on the friction surface. The natural frequencies of the CFPBS were evaluated from a free-vibration test with a seismic isolator system consisting of 4 CFPBS. To confirm the earthquake-resistant performance, a numerical analysis program was prepared using the equation of the CFPBS induced from the equations of motion. The equation reported by Tsai for the rolling-type seismic isolation bearings was proposed to design the equation of the CFPBS. Artificial seismic waves that satisfy the maximum earthquake scale of the Korean Building Code-Structural (KBC-2005) were created and verified to review the earthquake-resistant performance of the CFPBS by numerical analysis. The superstructural mass of the CFPBS and the skew angle of friction surface were considered for numerical analysis with El Centro NS, Kobe NS and artificial seismic waves. The CFPBS isolation performance evaluation was based on the numerical analysis results, and comparative analysis was performed between the results from numerical analysis and simplified theoretical equation under the same conditions. The validity of numerical analysis was verified from the shaking table test.