• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.114-121
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• 2010

Denim is one of the most frequently used fabrics for blue jeans. After washing denim fabric frequently changes its size and color. Salespersons recommended that after purchasing blue jeans customers should dry clean them once before washing. The aim of this study was to investigate to what degree washing with a household washing machine and dry cleaning affected the dimensions and the color of denim fabric. The denim fabric shrank greatly after the first laundering in warp direction regardless of whether it had been dry-cleaned or not. However, it shrank little from the second to the tenth laundering and after each number of dry cleanings. The thickness of the denim changed in the same way as the shrinkage occurred when the number of launderings or dry-cleanings increased. Although the indigo came out of the denim into washing liquor, both of the $L^*$ values and the $b^*$ values of the laundered and the dry-cleaned denim fabrics were lower than those of the control fabric. Darkening of the fabric after washing attributed to the shrinkage in warp; specifically the deep-blue warp yarns more spaced on the fabric face and the back. The $L^*$ and $b^*$ values of the dry-cleaned fabric decreased less than those of the laundered. The value of $a^*$ increased much less than the other values. Staining of the white cotton fabric laundered with the denim fabrics became less as the number of launderings increased. The degree of staining from the dry-cleaned denim was much lower than that of the laundered fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.65-70
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• 1977

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relation of attitudes and usage of denim cloth-ing to masculinity femininity, attitudes toward women's role, and four aspects of clothing interests. Masculinity-femininity was assessed by The Fe Scale of the California Psychological Inventory. Attitudes toward women's role was measured by selected items from The Inventory of Feminine Values and The Sex Ideology Scale. Measures of attitudes toward denim clothing consisted of: 1) attitudes regarding practicality and youth symbol, 2) possession, and 3) frequency of wearing denim clothing. Four aspects of clothing interests in general were assessed by statements dealing with choice of design, conformity-individuality, fashion and practicality in clothing. The sample consisted of 388 students in Sookmyung Women's University in Seoul, Korea. The data, collected by means of a self-administered questionnaire, were analyzed by correlation. The results indicate that: 1) Masculinity-femininity was related to youth symbol attitudes, possession, and frequency of wear-ing denim clothing. 2) Attitudes toward women's role was related to practicality attitudes, and frequency of wearing denim clothing. 3) Practicality attitudes toward denim clothing was related to conformity-individuality, and practicality in clothing. 4) Youth symbol attitudes toward denim clothing was related to fashion in clothing. 5) Possession of denim clothing was related to fashion and the choice of design in clothing. 6) Frequency of wearing denim clothing was related to the choice of design, and conformity-individuality in clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.756-775
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• 2023

This study was aimed at examining the characteristics of women's blue denim on the basis of design elements to provide fundamental data for fashion majors and fashion designers. Seven design elements were selected from previous studies to compare them with the following characteristics of blue denim: color (washing, dyeing), ornamentation (trimming, detailing, painting, and printing), and form modification, tearing, and ripping). Data from 1,520 photographs of the 2019 S/S to the 2023-24 F/W collections were collected through overlapping checks. The data were then subjected to frequency analysis using the Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (version 26). The results are as follows: The most frequent design method used in producing the denim items in our sample was washing, followed by modification, tearing, and ripping and detailing. The greatest change in denim design occurred in 2023, and more design element changes were observed in the F/W season than in the S/S season. Washing was used four times or more frequently than dyeing, while detailing was employed approximately 2 times more often than trimming. With respect to form, the most common approach was modification, followed by tearing and ripping.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.149-162
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to suggest various directions of living hanbok and proposed the living hanbok design that integrated the tradition and the contemporary, as well as the past and present with denim material that represents the youth cultureby while using the motif of Korean Jogakbo. For the research method, the data on living hanbok, denim, and Jogakbo were surveyed to develop and produce a living hanbok design. The development of a living hanbok design emphasized the meaning of longing for an accumulation of good fortune, by using the concept of 'wishing for fortune' including the symbolic images of denim and Jogakbo. The production results of this study are as follows. First, the Jogakbo motif consisted of patterns yearning for harmony, great fortune, longevity, and many children, and the living hanbok design integrated with the denim material symbolized the convergence of the past and present and the harmony of eastern and western cultures. The study could verify that the living hanbok design was recreated in a contemporary sense to be used everyday by expressing contemporary senses in a traditional image. Second, leftover fabric pieces and recycled materials that can be abandoned by the material market were used for denim. This study could also develop the living hanbok design as a sustainable design through upcycling, an important social trend, puting an emphasis on carrying out socio-ethical responsibilities. Third, denim Jogakbo work, which is connected by small pieces of denim material, used to be a difficult and labor intensive handicraft, but it could be proposed as a new high value-added fashion and generate contemporary living hanbok with a new image.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.55-64
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• 2017

This study was performed to help the denim fabric planning which reflects the sensibility preference of university students. Objective characteristics, like color properties and mechanical properties, in 8 denim fabrics (5 cotton 100% fabrics and 3 cotton/polyurethane blended fabrics) were evaluated. And the color preference, subjective sensation and tactile preference of denim fabrics were investigated among the university students. The effect of color preference and tactile preference of denim fabrics on the purchase preference of denim slacks was also examined. Color preference of denim fabrics showed a significant difference according to the kind of denim fabrics. University students preferred purple blue denim fabrics that was measured low $-b^*$ value and low $C^*$ value among the color properties of denim fabrics. Among the mechanical properties of denim fabrics, surface property like MMD, MIU and SMD as well as shear property like 2HG5 were important elements affecting subjective sensation. While, tactile preferences showed a significant difference according to the fabrics. The tactile preferences of cotton/polyurethane blended denim fabrics was highly preferred, and that of heavy 100% cotton denim fabric was lowly preferred. And the subjective sensation affecting tactile preferences were in order of smoothness, softness, lightness. It is concluded that the color preference and tactile preference influenced upon the purchase preference of denim slacks, and color preference had a bigger effect upon the purchase preference.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.374-387
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop up-cycling fashion design methods centered on discarded denim material for the study of original up-cycling design methods. Up-cycling fashion design work was developed using digital clothing technology. This is a recent hot topic among sustainable fashion design methods. Up-cycling fashion design expression methods (categorized as dismantlement, collages, dépaysement, grafting, weaving, and tearing) were centered on design methods. These methods create various three-dimensional modeling effects in planar forms, whereby five pieces can be applied to the fabric and digitally produced. The results are as follows: First, the use of discarded denim fabric for the development of up-cycling fashion design pieces enabled the recycling of existing resources, provided solutions to environmental pollution problems, and provided expansion opportunities for design processes for sustainable fashion products that expand the design value of denim products and their utility. Second, new eco-friendly fashion designs that attempt to achieve diversity in modern fashion trends could be presented through formative contemporary fashion produced by up-cycling work products. Third, up-cycling fashion design work is expected to provide opportunities for eco-friendly fashion design methods. This will expand the value of sustainable fashion design by recycling simple waste materials through the use of three-dimensional digital clothing technology and further through the presentation of expanded life cycles that extend product planning, production, and life cycles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.465-468
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• 2009

In this study, acid cellulase was used to treat denim fabrics by varying pH, temperature, enzyme concentration, treatment time and non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) concentration. Treatment condition was controlled based on the weight loss. The characteristics of enzyme-treated fabrics were measured in terms of tearing strength, stiffness, and color difference. The optimum conditions for cellulase treatment of denim fabric were pH 5.0, $50^{\circ}C$, 3% (o.w.f.), 90minutes. The weight loss did not change significantly with the addition of a non-ionic surfactant, but it improved when more non-ionic surfactant were used. The tearing strength of enzyme-treated denim fabrics did not deteriorate. The stiffness of the treated fabrics improved with the enzymatic treatment with and without the non-ionic surfactant. The difference in color of fabrics treated with enzyme increased.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.133-146
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fusion phenomenon that appears in contemporary women's denim fashion in order to find a way to come up with a creative denim design. The methodology of this study is to research documents related to fusion phenomena and consider precedent studies to establish a criteria for analyzing fusion phenomena. The results are as follows: First, fusion phenomena in modern women's denim can be categorized into fusion of time, fusion of space, fusion of gender, fusion of culture, and fusion of genre. Fusion of time appears as fusion with the past and fusion with the future. Fusion of space appears as fusion with Asia and fusion with other regions. Fusion of gender appears as unisex, androgynous, and genderless. Fusion of culture appears as fusion with subcultures such as grunge, kidult, lingerie, hippy look, hip hop fashion, etc. Finally, fusion of genre appears as fusion of materials, fusion of style, and fusion of circumstances. Second, when analyzing the frequency of appearance for fusion phenomena, fusion of culture appeared with a frequency of 29.7%, followed by fusion of genre with 19.1%, fusion of time with 10.5%, fusion of gender with 9.9%, and fusion of space with 8.5%. When analyzing the most frequently appearing fusion phenomena by year, fusion of culture appeared the most from the year 2000 to 2004, fusion of space and time in 2005, fusion of genre from 2006 to 2007, fusion of culture again in 2008 and 2009, and once more fusion of genre appeared the most in 2010.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.406-420
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• 2014

The goal of this study is to support the children's pants construction methods that secure clothing size and fit appropriateness through proposed improvements of denim pants construction method focusing on 4-year-old boys. Depths interview on the actual condition, measurements and calculations for positions and ease of the clothing points corresponding to the body points actually worn were conducted for 47 denim pants of nine boys. "Characteristics of the areas worn" and "physical characteristics of lower body" were analyzed, and improvements of 4-year-old children's denim pants construction method were proposed. As the results, the different figures in "characteristics of the areas worn" between the existing children's pants construction methods and children's actual wearing habits were found, and identification of distinct children's lower body from adults' supports that we should avoid tracing adults' methods without reasons. Children's pants construction method on basis of actual wearing should be devised to solve fit problems. Improvements of children's method were proposed such as ease of girth by different area worn, ease of "elastic waist girth", the difference between "elastic waist girth" and "pattern waist girth", and the difference between "pattern waist girth" and "pattern hip girth" as considerations of pants girth items, and appropriate position "clothing waist girth" "pants hip length" level, "pants crotch length" level, "clothing knee length" level, and "pants outside length" level for pattern making as considerations of clothing length items.