• Title/Summary/Keyword: Deep water wave

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Nonlinear Wave Interaction of Three Stokes' Waves in Deep Water: Banach Fixed Point Method

  • Jang, Taek-S.;Kwon, S.H.;Kim, Beom-J.
    • Journal of Mechanical Science and Technology
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    • v.20 no.11
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    • pp.1950-1960
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    • 2006
  • Based on Banach fixed point theorem, a method to calculate nonlinear superposition for three interacting Stokes' waves is proposed in this paper. A mathematical formulation for the nonlinear superposition in deep water and some numerical solutions were investigated. The authors carried out the numerical study with three progressive linear potentials of different wave numbers and succeeded in solving the nonlinear wave profiles of their three wave-interaction, that is, using only linear wave potentials, it was possible to realize the corresponding nonlinear interacting wave profiles through iteration of the method. The stability of the method for the three interacting Stokes' waves was analyzed. The calculation results, together with Fourier transform, revealed that the iteration made it possible to predict higher-order nonlinear frequencies for three Stokes' waves' interaction. The proposed method has a very fast convergence rate.

An Intercomparison Study of Deep Water Wave Models (심해 파랑모형의 비교연구)

  • 윤종태;안수한
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 1991
  • A wave prediction model of DP type with shallow water effects is composed. An jntercomparison study of the deep water wave models has been made to clarify the capacity of this model which has source functions by Incur and propagation scheme by Gadd. It is shown that the growth rate of wave energy is rapid and. for asymmetrical wind fields. this model behaves well. In spite of various response pattern for the wind fields the energy distribution gives reasonable agreements with those of other models.

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Deep Water Wave Model for the East Sea (東海에서의 파랑추산을 위한 심해파랑모형에 대한 연구)

  • Yoon, Jong-Tae
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.13 no.2 s.32
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    • pp.116-128
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    • 1999
  • A deep water wave prediction model applicable to the East Sea is presnted. This model incorporates rediative transter of energy specrum, atmospheric input form the wind, nonlinear interaction, and energy dissipation by white capping. The propagation scheme by Gadd shows satisfactory results and the characteristics of the nonlinear interaction is simulated well by discrete interaction approximatiion. The application of the model to the sea around the Korean Peninsula shows reasonable agreement with the observation.

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Investigation on the Design Wave Forces for Ear-do Ocean Research Station II: Fluid Force in the Breaking Wave Field (이어도 종합해양과학기지에 대한 설계파력의 검토 II: 쇄파역에서의 유체력)

  • 전인식;심재설;최성진
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.168-180
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    • 2000
  • In the Part I, the three dimensional model testing with NNW deep water wave direction gave the results such that the occurrence of breaking waves over the peak of Ear-Do caused very small wave height at the structure position. But the measured wave forces were rather greater than the calculated forces based on deep water wave height. Furthermore, It was also perceived that the time series of the forces looked like corresponding to the case that waves were superimposed by an unidirectional current. In the present Part II, the current is presumed to be a flow secondly induced by breaking waves, and an extensive study to clarify the current in a quantitative sense is performed through numerical analysis and hydraulic experiment. The results showed that a strong circulation can surely occur in the vicinity of the structure due to radiation stress differentials given by the breaking waves. It was also recognized that the velocity of the induced current varied with the magnitude of energy dissipation rate introduced in the numerical analysis. The numerical analysis was tuned adjusting the dissipation rate so that the calculated wave field could closely match with the experimental results of Part I. The fluid force (in prototype) for the optimal match showed approximately 2.2% increased over the calculated value based on the deep water wave height (24.6m) whereas the force corresponding to the average of the experimental values showed the increase of about 13.0%.

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Wave Transformation in the Intersecting Wave Trains (2방향 파랑하에서 파의 변형)

  • 김경호;조재희;윤영호
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.7 no.4
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    • pp.313-320
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    • 1995
  • A numerical analysis on the wave deformation in the shallow water region is performed for the case of two intersecting wave trains of the same frequency on uniformly sloping beaches. This model is based on the consideration of wave energy balance and wave action conservation, and iteratively solved the set of conservation equations of both mass and horizontal momentum. Using the computed results, the wave deformations in accordance with the variation of the parameters luck as incident wave angie and wave height in deep water which influences the variation of wave hight and mean water level under the intersecting wave trains in the shallow water region. are considered.

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The Characteristics of Waves on the Steep Sloping Sea Bottom (급경사 해저면에 대한 파랑의 반응특성)

  • Yeom, W.G.;Lee, J.W.
    • Journal of Korean Port Research
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.43-64
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    • 1992
  • This study discusses the interacting with deep water waves approaching from deep water based on the linear wave theory and steep sloping sea bottom floor by the numerical procedure. The results of particular interest are particle velocity and acceleration in x, y, z direction wave height amplification factor reflection coefficient and dimensionless pressure distribution on the steep sloping bottom with respect to the various incident wave angle. The wave loads relative to various bottom slopes, incident wave angles and wave periods on submerged breakwater and pipe are represented in comparison with mild sloping bottom the wave load parameters on the steep sloping bottom seemed to be influenced by variation of incident wave angle. In general the particle velocities and accelerations in x, y, z directions on the steep sloping bottom represented larger value or about two than those on the mild sloping bottom according to incident wave angle. However, the wave height amplification factors did not show distinct difference, but the slight variation with respect to the various incident angle showed on mild sloping bottom. The reflection coefficient increased with respect to increase of the incident angle on the steep sloping bottom the results also indicate that the very steep sloping beach produces a rather substantial amount of reflection as we expected. No significant variation of wave pressure was shown on the steep sloping bottom but it represented a certain amount of variation on the mild sloping bottom according to the various incident wave angle. The analysis at the OTEC site also showed similar results.

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Systematic Approach for Predicting Irregular Wave Transformation (불규칙파랑의 계통적 취급수법)

  • 권정곤
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.83-95
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    • 1990
  • It can be assumed that the ocean waves consist of many independent pure sinusoidal components which progress in arbitrary directions. To analyze irregular sea waves, both the spectrum method and the individual wave method have been used. The spectral approach is valid in the region where the water depth is deep and the linear property of velocity distribution is predominent, while the individual wave analysis method in the region where the water depth is shallow and the wave nonlinearity is significant. Therefore, to investigate the irregular wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water region, it is necessary to relate the frequency spectrum which is estimated by the spectrum analysis method to the i oint probability distribution of wave height, period and direction affected by the boundary condition of the individual wave analysis method. It also becomes important to define the region where both methods can be applied. This study is a part of investigation to establish a systematic approach for analyzing the irregular wave transformation. The region where the spectral approach can be applied is discussed by earring out the experiments on the irregular wave transformation in the two-dimensional wave tank together with the numerical simulation. The applicability of the individual wave analysis method for predicting irregular wave transformation including wave shoaling and breaking and the relation between frequency spectrum and joint probability distribution of wave height and period are also investigated through the laboratory experiment and numerical simualtion.

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Analytical Approximation in Deep Water Waves

  • Shin, JangRyong
    • Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2016
  • The objective of this paper is to present an analytical solution in deep water waves and verify the validity of the theory (Shin, 2015). Hence this is a follow-up to Shin (2015). Instead of a variational approach, another approach was considered for a more accurate assessment in this study. The products of two coefficients were not neglected in this study. The two wave profiles from the KFSBC and DFSBC were evaluated at N discrete points on the free-surface, and the combination coefficients were determined for when the two curves pass the discrete points. Thus, the solution satisfies the differential equation (DE), bottom boundary condition (BBC), and the kinematic free surface boundary condition (KFSBC) exactly. The error in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) is less than 0.003%. The wave theory was simplified based on the assumption tanh $D{\approx}1$ in this paper. Unlike the perturbation method, the results are possible for steep waves and can be calculated without iteration. The result is very simple compared to the 5th Stokes' theory. Stokes' breaking-wave criterion has been checked in this study.

Ultrasonically enhancing flowability of cement grout for reinforcing rock joint in deep underground

  • Junho Moon;Inkook Yoon;Minjin Kim;Junsu Lee;Younguk Kim
    • Geomechanics and Engineering
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    • v.33 no.2
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    • pp.211-219
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    • 2023
  • This study analyzes the changes in the physical properties of grout by irradiating it with ultrasonic energy and assesses the injectability of the grout into deep rock fractures. The materials used in the research are OPC (Ordinary Portland Cement) and MC (Micro Cement), and are irradiated depending on the water/cement ratio. After irradiating the grout with ultrasonic energy, viscosity, compressive strength, and particle size are analyzed, and the results of the particle size analysis were applied to Nick Barton's theory to evaluate the injectability of the grout into deep rock fractures under those conditions. It was found that the viscosity of the grout decreased after ultrasonic wave irradiation, and the rate of viscosity reduction tended to decrease as the water/cement ratio increased. Additionally, an increase in compressive strength and a decrease in particle size were observed, indicating that the grout irradiated with ultrasonic energy was more effective for injection into rock fractures.

Laboratory Experiments for Triad Interactions of Deep Water Wind Waves (심해 풍파의 3파 상호작용에 대한 실험실 실험)

  • ;;Noriaki Hashimoto
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.39-52
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    • 2000
  • The triad interactions have been known to be important only for shoaling waves or finite depth wind waves. In deep water, they are insignificant compared with the quadruplet interactions in respect to the evolution of wind waves due to energy transfer among the wave components. However, the triad interactions may be important even for deep water waves because they may closely be related to the wave steepness, which definitely affects wave breaking, drag of air flow over t.'Ie sea, or navigation of ships, especially during the early stage of the development of wind waves. This study reports a series of laboratory experiments, whose data are subjected to bispectral analyses to investigate the triad interactions of deep-water wind waves. It is found that the bicoherence at the spectral peak frequency and the wave steepness are almost directly proportional, indicating that the steep waves with peaked crests and flat troughs are resulted from the triad interactions. Both bicoherence and wave steepness increase with the wave age during the early stage of wave generation and then drop off as the waves grow old. It seems that the energy of the secondary spectral peak developed by the triad interactions during the early stage of wave generation is redistributed to the neighboring frequencies by the quadruplet interactions during the later stage.

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