• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.117-130
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• 2005

Western clothing is adjusted to the figures of the human body unlike Korean traditional clothes. For this adjustment, we need a method, known as dart, to reasonably adjust a wide circumference to curves of the human body. So far, there has been some research in the aspect of clothing engineering on how to decide darts of skirts or trousers, but no theoretical research has yet been conducted on how to decide the number and amount of dart, which has caused difficulties in beginners' understanding of dart. Futhermore, there is no consistent drawing method for the number and amount of darts in existing teaching and teaming materials. Therefore, to develop teaching and teaming methods for darts, this study identified the amount and number of darts for waist girth of 66-72cm and a hip girth of 86-102cm. When the difference between the waist girth and the hips girth, including margins, is above a minimum of 26cm, two darts can be designed, but when the difference is below 24cm, one dart is necessary. The amount of darts increases by 0.5cm for every 2cm increase of the hip girth to the waist girth. In addition, as darts become longer, the cutting of the waist line becomes smoother. For one, rather than two, darts the curve of the waist line is steeper. Based on the above results, it was assured that when belts are curved through adjustment to the waist line of skirts or slacks, their composition can be stable. Therefore, in basic teaching about slacks and skirts, the number and amount of the darts should be designed according to the difference between the girths of the waist and the hip. This difference should be a minimum of 24cm, but if it is below 24cm, the number of darts needed is one.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.33-40
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• 1987

To study the body trunk basic to Clothing construction, and study the peculiarities of visual spatial division, necessary items are measured indirectly from 216 unmarried women from 19 to 24 years old by a photographic net-work method. In so doing, the problem of Fashion Design in establishing the location of Darts for Basic Dress is not considered. The following results are obtained. 1) Indirect measuring method, is obtained approximate to actual size, with an error of .+-. 2.8cm. 2) In the modeling plan of Dart location viewed from the visual-spatial division in Basic Dress, it is concluded that Darts are to be placed at the point of 1/3k+1/5k form the waist. From the aesthetic point of wiew, it is more appealling for darts to be placed at the point of 6cm .+-. 0.6cm right or left of center. 3) From direct measurement dart location can be set based on bust point width, and from indirect measurement, dart location can be set based on waist width.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.3 s.217
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• pp.91-102
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• 2006

The following research compares the two apparel systems that are used in Korean colleges, Gerber and PAD, by analyzing the advantages and disadvantages of their Dart-related functions in the pattern construction process. The results are as follows. 1. Regarding transformation methods, the Gerber system was able to use pivot method, while the PAD system was able to use both pivot method and slash methods. in other issues, the PAD system was not able to synthesize more than two Darts, and only showed differences for other functions. On the other hand, the diamond-shape Dart and diagonal Dart could be produced only in the PAD system, while curvy shaped Dart could not be produced in either system. 2. The change in side lines due to the change of Dart width only occurred in the PAD system, while the change in Dart length only occurred in the Gerber system; both systems need improvement. 3. As for the pattern outer line connection capability, which is a Dart automatic transformation function, both systems showed unnatural shapes which need to be corrected. 4. We first constructed a Dart shape composition chart according to the number of Darts. Based on this, we examined whether they have appropriate shapes. Among single-Darts, the Gerber system had an inappropriate, outer-line shape for Underarm Dart and Center Front Dart, and among two-Darts, it was inappropriate for Side and Waist Dart.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.457-467
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• 2006

The following research compares two mostly-used apparel systems that are used in colleges of Korea, Gerber and PAD, by analyzing advantages and disadvantages of their Dart, Tuck and Pleats-related functions in pattern construction process. The results are the following: First, regarding transformation methods, Gerber system was able to use pivot method, while PAD system was able to use both pivot and slash method. As for movement, distribution, synthesis, folding, producing additional Dart function, the PAD system was not able to synthesize more than two Darts, and only showed differences for other functions. On the other hand, the diamond-shape Dart and diagonal Dart can be produced only in PAD system, while none of curvy shaped Dart can be produced in both systems. Second, as for pattern outer line connection capability, which is a Dart automatic transformation function, both systems showed unnatural shapes and need for correction. Third, when constructing according to the type of Tuck, we could distribute multiple Darts at a time with PAD system, while with Gerber system, distribution into multiple Darts at a time was impossible at all. Fourth, when constructing according to the contour of Pleats, Gerber system made it possible to make construction of multiple lines and box/inverted Pleats with just one order, but PAD system required repetitive tasks, which remains room for enhancement in regard to such inefficiency.

• ETRI Journal
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.89-99
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• 2011

We construct surfaces with darts, creases, and corners by blending different types of local geometries. We also render these surfaces efficiently using programmable graphics hardware. Points on the blending surface are evaluated using simplified computation which can easily be performed on a graphics processing unit. Results show an eighteen-fold to twenty-fold increase in rendering speed over a CPU version. We also demonstrate how these surfaces can be trimmed using textures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.744-755
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• 2024

This study analyzes the characteristics, product dimensions, and ease of haenyeo suits to inform their reproduction. Large, medium, and small haenyeo suits were collected from four manufacturers in Jeju, and their components, cut styles, product dimensions, and ease were analyzed. In the current haenyeo suit design, the upper suit has a collar and a crotch, while the lower suit has a high rise with a gusset. Additionally, there are darts behind the neck in the upper suit and behind the knees in the lower suit. Haenyeo suits have a three-dimensional shape that accommodates the postures needed for haenyeo's underwater activities. The upper suit is finished with a cuffed hem or an uncuffed side seam with a diagonal or stepped cut. The lower suit is cut and sewn with the waist and hem at right angles or with the hem diagonal to the waistline. Haenyeo suit dimensions vary between manufacturers, and the models' body dimensions show that there is little or no ease. In conclusion, haenyeo suit manufacturers currently use the same components; however, they differ in terms of cut styles, sewing methods, dimensions, and designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1090-1102
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to develop an improved work clothing which is much safe, comfortable, mobility and convenient than what workers currently wear at construction site. The investigation has been conducted to evaluate current work clothing to grasp any problems, discomforts and damages related to the work clothing. For the best and accurate data, hands-on investigation and a short-interview have been performed at the construction site as well as formulating a questionnaire. The questionnaires was answered by 425 workers and safety manager of 13 different construction site. The result of the questionnaire enables us to design a sample work clothing, many pa π s such as material, pattern and design have been improved. To improve the amenity of heat, the surface of a material was used by $Aerocool^{\circledR}$ fiber which contains inside dryness function. In order to absorb perspiration on the back the armpits, mesh martial that is mixture of $Coolever^{TM}$ fiber and $Mirawave^{TM}$ fiber was used to absorb perspiration in an effective manner. And a sleeve's bottom part and trousers' bottom part's cover method have been changed. Sample work clothing was shorten at the side of upper garment up to 2cm and lengthen the length of the back by 3cm. To reduce the tightness around armpit more room was given in that area. Darts were added to the elbow, the hip, and the knees that also followed an ergonomic pattern. A sample work clothing evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment to compare to a current work clothing. Assessment group consists of seven subject groups and nine expert groups to evaluate external appearance and adaptability to the movements. In all aspects of the test, the result of evaluation process of the sample work clothing received more positive assessment than the current work clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.152-166
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.96-114
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• 2023

In modern society, there is a tendency to prioritize both fashion and comfort, with a preference for loose-fit clothing that enhances mobility. While darts may not be visibly present on the garment's exterior, their effects should be dispersed and incorporated into the design. However, there is a significant lack of systematic research on dartless patterns in the current state. Therefore, this study focuses on investigating dartless patterns used in loose-fit clothing tailored to the body measurements of women in their 20s. The objective of this research is to develop foundational dartless patterns that serve as a basis for diverse design possibilities in loose-fit clothing. To achieve this purpose, seven dartless patterns introduced in clothing construction references were selected for the production of experimental prototypes, which were then subjected to visual evaluations by a panel of experts. Based on the evaluation results, superior patterns were selected and they underwent modification and improvement to develop the research patterns. The developed research patterns were derived through the formulation of calculation formulas, and based on these formulas, garments were produced. Subsequently, a second round of visual evaluations was conducted by a panel of experts, and notable improvements were observed in most of the aspects assessed. However, it should be noted that this study was limited to women in their 20s it did not explore a wide range of fabrics. Therefore, further research is needed in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1178-1187
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to conduct a questionnaire survey on the actual conditions of the working uniform and protective equipment put on by street cleaners, then to identify their inconvenience and problems and to draw solutions to improve them, and finally to design a spring-and-autumn street cleaner uniform which has enhanced functionalities such as motional flexibility, safety and soil proof. The questionnaire survey of this study was done by street cleaners who were in charge of street cleaning and collecting the recyclable waste. The result of this study, easily worn-out parts of the working clothing were the sleeve hems and the front part on the upper uniform, and the trouser hems and zipper on the lower uniform. Easily soiled parts were the sleeve hems, parts of arm on the upper uniform, and the trouser hems and knee parts on the lower uniform. Based on the results of the questionnaire survey, the sample uniforms were designed in consideration of material, design and pattern. A soil-proof material was used for easily soiled parts such as sleeve hems, knee parts and trouser hems. Reflective material was applied to the parts such as chest, back and the side lines of sleeves and trousers to raise visibility in working and to ensure safety. A crease was given to each side of the back. The height of sleeve cap was lowered to lift the motional flexibility of back and arm parts. Darts were applied to elbow and knee parts for a three-dimensional design. Gussets were inserted in the thigh part to give it activity. Then quantitative evaluation and a sensory evaluation, which was composed of outward appearance, motional flexibility and fitness for field operation, were conducted. According to these evaluations, the sample uniform was found to be more satisfactory than current uniform.