• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.3 s.93
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• pp.47-58
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• 2005

Mokpan-dangkogit was one pattern of collars normally attached to female clothing in Lee Dynasty and it was very rare that a collar of Mokpan-dangkogit was found in male clothing particularly under the Confucianism-dominated society. The detailed procedures of the study are as follows: To summarize a systematic classification on collar of Lee Dynasty along with characteristics of each collar in literature review; To exam various types of Mokpan-dangkogit found in male clothing in the era of Lee Dynasty through relics of the past; and To analyze a period of time which Mokpan-dangkogit first appeared in the process of clothing history of Lee Dynasty and those who wore it. In conclusion, a relationship between female Mokpan-dangkogit and male counterpart was discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.29-46
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• 1995

This study is on the classification of Chchori forms in Korea in the 16 th and 17 th Centuries by investigating the patterns an construction of excavated clothong. The characteristic features of the Korean Chchori in the period are as follow. 1. The Chchori shows forms. The diversity is accomplished by varing the components pattern is Chchori, such as collar, sleeve, and bodice. The divertification in Chchori pattern represents an attempt to advance the simple Chchori pattern in the 4 th and 5 th Centuries to the mordern one. 2. Mokpankit (목판깃) has a straight construction line but Kalkit (칼깃), Dangkogit(당코깃) have curved one. This suggests a transformation in the construction line of Chchori. 3. Among Chchori pattern, some Mokpankit and Kalkit Chchori show two kinds in size ; 40-50 cm and 60-70 . However, Dangkokit Chchori has only one size of 40-50cm. Considering the difference in body size between man and woman , Mokpankit Chchori and Kalkit Chchori are jueged to be for man and woman commonly, and Dangkokit Chchori is for woman only. After the period , woman wears only Dangkokit Chchori, whichis thought to come from the sex discrimination. Consequently on the viewpoint of rinsiple of Adaptation to Environments, forementioned facts prove the changes in Korean society in the 16 th and 17 th centuries on the historical basis of costume.