• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.53-61
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• 2011

We have made knitwear in a different way from the typical woven pattern; it does not have the dart, even for women's tops. The purpose of this research was to compare the fit and appearance of the torso pattern for circular knitted fabric between virtual try-on garments and real garments. First, a woman in her 20's was scanned by a 3D body scanner, and thus producing a virtual avatar. I prepared knit patterns and created a torso pattern appropriate for circular knitted fabric. Next, I measured the body size of the avatar. The 2D patterns for the torso and sleeves were developed using the Yuka Super ALPHA : Plus. The 3D virtual garments were made from the imported 2D patterns and were then tried on the 3D virtual avatars. Finally, the fit of the real garments and the virtual garments was compared. While the shape of the virtual try-on garments were similar to the real garments, the folding and sagging were different. This study found the length was the same as woven wear. However the actual bust size and the clothing size were the same which is not a typical characteristic of woven wear. In the case of hem measurement, more space was needed than actual body size but less space was needed than in woven patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.447-461
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to develop a torso pattern that is highly representative for the proper body shape of women in their thirties. Size data of the women with age of 30 through 39 from the database of Size Korea 2004 were used for the study. In order to develop a master pattern which will be used as the benchmark for grading of research group, 4 existing torso block drafting methods were compared based on the data gathered and the block with the highest evaluation score was utilized as a reference point. For the analysis, data was divided into four types, only the data of 138 subjects which were evaluated at least by four or more experts as valid were used for the study. The major results can be summarized as follow. The women of bust girth of 91cm and height of 160cm which was turned out to be representative type of research group were used as standard measurement for the purpose of reflecting not only curve length of the 3D analysis measurement but also the difference between front and back thickness to the pattern. Dart locations were set based on front and back torso ease, shoulder area revisions, front sagging length 1.5cm and cross section crevice length analysis. According to the experts' appearance evaluation of the pattern was found to be better than the control pattern which was regarded as the best among 4 patterns created based on existing torso block drafting methods.

• Journal of Korean Society of Industrial and Systems Engineering
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2016

Patent management activities are considered to play a key role for technology-based firms under the recent knowledge-based economies. This is because intellectual property, including patents, can act as a system for continuous profit generation by protecting firms' products, processes and services. In Korea, healthcare industry is now regarded as one of the promising next generation industries. Despite the promise of healthcare industry, Korean healthcare product manufacturers are faced with turbulent business changes, such as market opening. Even though there are various industrial studies on the effect of patent management activities on firm outcome, previous studies have hardly paid attention to Korean healthcare product manufacturing firms. For this reason, this study identifies the effect of patent management activities, such as patenting activeness, technical excellence and cooperation degree, on firm outcomes, including financial profitability and firm growth, with respect to the Korean healthcare product manufacturers. In this study, we located 86 Korean healthcare manufacturing firms from KORCHAMBIZ and DART, and then collected the data of their patenting activities and outcomes between 2001 and 2013. By applying factor analysis and regression analysis, our empirical study found that firms' patenting activeness has the significant positive relationship on firms' financial profitability, and firms' patenting activeness and technical excellence have the significant positive relationship on firms' financial growth. Our study is an initial attempt to identify the effect of patent management activities on firm outcome within Korean healthcare product manufacturing industry, and thus its results can be used as the basis to formulate national policies for Korean healthcare product industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.170-182
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to classify the upper body of women into several kind.; of somatotypes, using the method of Surgical Tape and making their shells. The subjects are 50 females 20 to 29 years-old. Fifty-one anthropometric data are measured per shell of body surface : eight somatotype factors are obtained through principal component analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax, Somatotype of women's upper body is achieved by cluster analysis, using the standardized factor score a.: an independent variable and the FASTCLUS of SAS by Kmeans. The results are as follows : 1. The number of the factors which explain the somatotype is eight and these factors comprise 81.63 percent of total variance. Factor 1 related to the degree of fatness in the front of upper body Factor 2 related to the degree of fatness in the back of upper body Factor 3 . related to the length of the upper body Factor 4 : related to the type of the upper chest over the chest circmference line Factor 5 : related to the armhole and neck Factor 6 : related to the type of lower chest under the chest circumference line Factor 7: related to the part of the back shoulder Factor 8: related to the depth of front neck and side dart of front independently 2. Cluster analysis results in classification of upper body into five clusters. Cluster 1 : the of circumference i.: lager and that of length is longer than the average The louver part of chest is the lagest and widest among surface areas. Cluster 2 : the circumference is the smallest , the length and surface area are small. The upper and lower chest is small Cluster 3 : the length and surface area are the smallest , the circumference is average. The body line (silhouette) from chest to waist is curved slightly.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.137-154
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.196-202
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• 2006

In this study the swimwear pattern focused on a typical middle-aged women's body was developed and discussed. To determine the characteristics of a typical middle-aged women's body, their actual bust were cast. According to a generated flattened body surface shell, the right side of pattern was designed considering stretching ratio of swimwear materials as shown in the figure 3. Special features of the developed swimwear pattern are a bust dart, a particularly designed lining, a power-net, and a brassiere-cup. Against a commercial swimwear pattern, the darts were applied to bust area considering its volume. The lining was attached on the entire right side except brassiere part, and power-net was added twice on belly and hip part. As a result, silhouette and body shape were improved. The new brassiere-cup was designed and made to satisfy the middle-aged women's demand about their bust volume. Swimwear fitting test was performed, and it was evaluated. The developed swimwear rated activity, body support, entire silhouette, pressure, comfortable fitting, suitability with body figure, nudity higher by comparison with a commercial swimwear, as shown in the Table 6. Specially the developed swimwear satisfied future customers about a bust, a hip, a waist, a belly area, which the middle-aged women are not confident. Reducing exposure of an armhole and upper leg area, it also satisfied them. New developed swimwear pattern will provide useful reference to swimwear businesses targeting middle-aged women.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.299-312
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to create a shirt sloper suitable for an elderly male body shape by producing virtual models using a 3D-virtualization program, making a torso prototype using the Yuka CAD system, and employing 3D simulation to virtualize and calibrate the model. First, the following three types of obese dummies are implemented through the CLO 3D program: Type 1 exhibits body fat in the lower body; Type 2 exhibits an obese abdomen; and Type 3 displays a balanced form of obesity. Second, for the design of the shirt pattern, the waist back length (measured value+1), back armhole depth (C/10+12+3+0.5~1.5), front armhole depth (back armhole depth 0~1), front interscye (2C/10-1+0.5-0.5), armscye depth (C/10+2+3.5+ 0.5), back interscye (2C/10-1+1), front chest C (C/4+2.5+1), back chest C (C/4+2.5-1), front hem C (C/4+2.5+1(+2)), back hem C (C/4+2.5-1(+2)), cap height (AH/3-5), and biceps width (Front AH-1, Back AH-1) are calculated. Third, the virtual attachment of the shirt pattern is resolved by increasing the front and back armhole depths, and the front and rear wrinkles are improved by adding a back armhole dart. The front hem lift and lateral pull caused by the protrusion of the abdomen are amended by increasing the margin of the chest, waist C, and hip C, with the appearance improved by balanced margin distribution in the front, back, and side panels. The improved retail pattern with an increase in the front armholes C was balanced on the torso plate.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.27-40
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• 2002

The purpose of this thesis is presenting desirable design of uniform which could reflect high school girls' demands with the researches on their consciousness of fashion and actual state of uniforms. Methods to accomplish this research include first, examinationson characteristics of high school girls and their consciousness of fashion with relevant articles, second, interviews with designers from major domestic uniform brands - ELITE, IVY, SMART - and third, analysis on related internet sites. Practical researches are followed by design analysis and proposal of improvement on high school girls' uniform, accompanied by collection of photographs from field studies, major uniform brands' shops and uniform related internet sites. Korean high school girls in the digital era are able to express themselves in each different fashion with own individuality, preference or intention, as they are particularly interested in clothes or their appearances. Their consciousness of fashion became visible in a shape of negative attitude and dissatisfaction with uniforms due to its out-of-date design, lack of features and inconvenience in action. Besides more than half of high school girls already experienced reforming it for better looks. As a result of current analysis on references of uniform designs, various levels of refinement were noticed even in uniform of similar details, design, fabric textile and color due to differences on size & length of jacket collar, dart, cutting line, size of details, decorative line, easiness in fit, length of clothes, and etc. To provide students of more refined and desired designs which reflect their demands, current uniforms are to begin acquiring delicate changes with present vogue and feature such as size of details, silhouette, cutting line, decorative line and etc. In addition newly designed uniforms are to present desirable design with image of refinement and neat as they actively comprehend students' needs within its symbolic, functional, economic and aesthetic characteristics by nature.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.642-649
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• 2010

This study was designed to generate briefs pattern for women in their twenties using 3D parametric body model. 151 women in their 20's were random sampled and measured using Martine's anthropometry. And one subject was chosen as the representative subject for 3D scanning. Parametric model was generated of using CATIA P3, Unigraphics NX4.0, Rapidform 2006. And the 3D surface of parametric body model was flattened onto the 2D plane. 3 downscale ratios(0%, 10%, 15%) were applied to generated pattern to figure out what downscale ratio was suitable to make briefs with stretch fabric. 4 kinds of experimental briefs were made with stretch fabrics(0%, 10%, 15% downscale) and worn on the dressform. Subjective evaluation on the appearance was done and the data was analyzed by ANOVA with post-hoc test. Briefs pattern was generated through the process of flattening the parametric surface and arranging the patches to make briefs pattern by dart manipulation. The different ration of outline and area between 3D surface and 2D pattern were 0.22% and 0.09% respectively. It showed that a parametric model could provide a desirable pattern with minute size error. The results of subjective evaluation on the appearance of 4 experimental briefs showed that stretch briefs with 15% downscale ratio was evaluated most highly in most items. Findings imply that it is feasible to apply 3D parametric model to generate patterns for various items considering various fabric properties.