• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.5
• /
• pp.695-707
• /
• 2016

This study presents quantitative evaluation standards for the shape fitness test, conducted in the process of the slacks fit test. This study aims to quantify appearance sensory test of slacks for the objectification of qualitative evaluation methods in existing shape fitness tests. The subjects were women of standard body type between the ages of 18 and 24. Slacks differing in their ease in waist girth, hip girth, crotch length and knee length were designed to test their shape fitness. The gap volume distribution between the body and slack, angle of the baseline by body part, and ratio of total thickness from the sideline using 3D human body scan data (which reflect the results of the appearance sensory test) were presented as quantitative evaluation standards. There were less wrinkles in the wrinkle/overstretch and ease categories of the appearance sensory test; in addition, ease was adequate and small enough to comfortably perform basic human activities in the standing upright posture. The gap volume distribution analysis between body and slacks showed that curves increased in the slacks surface along with an increase of ease in slacks and suggested that wrinkles also increased. In the baseline's horizontal categories in terms of a $0^{\circ}$ horizontal angle, the range of angles were evaluated as adequate by the clothing expert group. The total thickness ratio of 0.5:0.5 divides into the sideline from the baseline.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.5
• /
• pp.708-715
• /
• 2016

This study researched the sizing system of dress form for apparel manufacturing in the domestic market. It aims to be used as basic data for the development of a dress form that could be used by manufacturers of senior men's clothing. Research focused on the sizes presented on the homepages of 17 dress form manufacturers in the USA, France, Japan, and Korea. Body measurement was made for senior men in their 50's over men (n=134). Six items were measured by the 'Standard body measurement of Size Korea'. The type of dress form in the domestic market can be classified into half-body type (upper body type and lower body type), torso, and whole-body type; in addition, each type is divided into upper arm, arm, crotch, and thigh. Korean dress form manufacturers produced/sold diverse kinds (size 7-9) for women; however, they used large/small sizes or product sizes for men without defining sizes. The chest size (93-105cm) has not been standardized while the rates of waist circumference, hip circumference and shoulder length (in accordance with the chest size) were all different. Global dress form brands manufactured reflecting body dimensions by the state organization USA ASTM. Japan JIS. For this reason, most domestic clothing businesses depend on imported dress forms. Especially, there were no dress forms for senior men. With the growing market for seniors, it would be necessary to produce senior dress forms for clothing production that reflect the body shapes and sizes of seniors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.5 s.58
• /
• pp.671-685
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to develop a new size range and size interval for early adolescent girls. For this purpose, a total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric measurements and 41 photographic measurements per a person. SAS 8.1 was used in data analysis including means, standard deviations, and frequency analysis. The stature was divided at 5cm intervals as in KS into 9 sizes from the lowest 130cm to the highest 171cm. If waist circumference were divided at the same intervals, the sizes cannot reflect the body growth of adolescent girls at these ages. Thus this study set intervals between sizes irregularly based on the mean of waist circumference by the type of body shape. Based on the results, this study proposed: for Type A - 6 sizes (140A-58, 145A-54, 145A-62, 150A-58, 150A-62, 155A-62); for Type X- 9 sizes (150X-59, 155X-63, 155X-66, 160X-59, 160X-63, 160X-66, 165X-59, 165X-63, 165X-66): and for Type H - 7 sizes (145H-68, 150H-68, 150H-70, 155H-68, 155H-73, 160H-68, 160H-73). For the sizes selected for each type, reference measurements were decided - centering on items necessary for manufacturing clothes. Reference measurements suggested for lower garments 8 items including waist circumference, hip circumference, slacks length and crotch length. The suggested sizes are distributed in a wider range, so they are considered to be helpful for students to find clothes fitting their bodies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.167-179
• /
• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.6
• /
• pp.979-988
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the lower body size and forms of married women in their thirties who have experienced pregnancy and parturition. Their measurements derived from the direct anthropometry and indirect photographic measures were compared to those of 20's. Improving consumer satisfaction for missy brand, especially in fitness of skirt and pants, some lower body classification were presented. The results were as follows : 1. The characteristics of lower body showed many differences by individuals especially in depth, girth, length and angle measures rather than height and breadth measures. Many items including index, calculations and angles revealed significant differences compared to those of 20's. Several breadth items, crotch length had distinct increase than those of women in twenties. Flattened buttocks side silhouette from waist to hip, buttocks drooping and decrease of inclination implied the influence of pregnancy, parturition and aging. 2. We hardly find out sizing system differences between missy brand and miss brand. Based on waist and hip girth measurements of subjects, sizing system of missy apparel wasn't suitable for their body size. Excessive drop(hip girth-waist girth) of missy brands, 25~30 cm, was almost the same to the drop of miss brands. 3. To improve the size satisfaction of missy women, we classified the lower body into 5 types according to drop, buttocks angle and hip length. Type 1 was small waist with large buttocks projection, and hip length was close to an average. Type 2 was small waist with medium buttocks projection, and the hip length was close to an average. Type 3 was medium waist, with average projection of the buttocks and hip length. Type 4 was large waist, projection of the buttocks and the hip length were close to an average. Type 5 was large waist, projection of the buttocks was small and the hip length was close to an average.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.648-662
• /
• 1993

The summarized findings resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows ; The analysis of measurements on the lower limb movements : For this experimentation, data was collected from three hundred and eighty female, age 19 to 23, who answered five lower limb movements(M1~M5). The statistics show that the order of the expansion ratio is gluteal area-length/knee-girth/back-line/knee-depth/thigh-depth/hip-girth, from the highest to the lowest in all movements. When comparing the correlation coefficient of the measurements, the values of the correlation coefficient of the height and the length items are very low, but those of the girth, the breadth, and the depth items are relatively high and those of the waist and the hip items are highest. For more sophisticated analysis, the factor analysis was conducted on the lower limb movements. Four factors were classified on the factor load by the "varimax rotation" method. Each movement shows the most important factor differently, as follows ; the most important factor in M1 is "the shape factor of lower limb below hip-line", that in M2 is "the cross-sectional shape factor", that in M3 is "the size factor of abdominal and loins region", and those in M4 and M5 accord with the interpretation of M3. When the investigation of the estimated function was conducted, in the selectional case of representative items on the slacks construction, it found that it would be better to add abdomen and thigh items as important considerations to waist girth, hip girth and crotch length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.608-621
• /
• 1993

The Purposes of this study were 1)to find the body surface total line and segment line significantly(${\alpha}$=0.05) changed by the leg movement including all movement direction of hip joint, knee joint and ankle joint for the more functional clothing. 2)to classify them into 3 types-expansion type, contraction type, expansion & contraction type, and 3)to identify the characteristics of the body surface length changes. 10 Crosswise and 5 lengthwise body surface total lines and 48 crosswise & 39 lengthwise body surface segment lines of 26 female college students aged from 18 to 24 years were measured directly on the body surface and were analyzed by ANOVA & Multiple Comparison Test (Tukey). The results were as following : Body surface total lines significantly changed were all the body surface total lines except abdoman girth, 1/2thigh girth of lower leg and ankle girth, and these were classified into 3 types : Center front leg line belonged to expansion & contraction type, whereas lateral leg line, legscye girth, and total crotch length belonged to contraction type. The rest belonged to expansion type. Knee girth showed maximum expansion, whereas center front leg line showed maximum contraction. Body surface total lines have shown large expansion crosswise whereas lengthwise they have mainly shown contraction. At least more than one component segment line of each body surface total lines except abdoman girth and ankle girth have shown significant change. Top segment of inner leg line showed maximum expansion. whereas just below top segment of center front leg line showed maximum contraction. Crosswise all the body surface segment lines have shown expansion except inner back segments of thigh girth and 1/2thigh girth of upper leg which have shown contraction. Lengthwise they have shown both expansion and contraction according to the location of front or back, and below or upper 1/2thigh girth line except the component segment lines of lateral leg line, which has shown contraction only.(cf. figure 2. figure 3. and table 2-2).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.2
• /
• pp.189-199
• /
• 2010

This study develops a coverall design for the body shape and movement of infants. This research analyzed these processes: 1. The current coverall styles preferred for infants. 2. The appropriate products for the real size, body shape, movement, and fit of infants. 3. The observations of the 6 months to 9 months movement and development of infants. 4. The design and creation of a new coverall base in this study, and to check the suitable test the developed coverall design for the infant. The result of this study are: A coverall for infants that lie or crawl on the floor must avoid opening in the center front and a gore has to be added at the crotch of the pants for the better movement of infants. These ways provide infants a neat appearance and easy movement. The test of developed designs shows that the developed coverall design covers the size gap of the trunk loop according to the growth of the infant and the movement of the legs; in addition it provides a positive aesthetic effect. The waistline in the developed coverall (a waistline that should exist lower than the body waistline of the infant) can reduce seam stress because the pressure of the seam line can be absorbed in a dipper. It is one of the suitable design points for infants lying prone all day long in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.5
• /
• pp.821-833
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information about body proportion characteristics, and the level of body cathexis and fit satisfaction related to those characteristics. It is hoped that this will help to improve ready-to-wear satisfaction in middle-aged women. In order to achieve this purpose, the body proportion characteristics of middle-aged women were measured and were compared with that of standard and ideal body types. Then, the body cathexis and fit satisfaction according to these characteristics was analyzed. Finally, the following results were obtained. First, the average height of middle-aged women was 6.87 head, waist length was 58.9% of height, and knee length was 25.6% of height. In frontal appearance, the hip width, shoulder width, and chest width were wider than waist width(24%, 20%, and 11% respectively). Chest and hip depths was thicker than waist depth(19% and 17% respectively). Second, in lengths proportion, their lower body was shorter than the standard body shape for women in their 20s'. Also the difference between the width of frontal appearance and depth proportion of side appearance was small, suggesting a more slender silhouette among the middle aged women. Finally, middle-aged women who were not wide or big in the chest had higher satisfaction with their bodies. As shoulder width and chest depth became small, the fit satisfaction of upper clothes increased. While longer lower body had higher fit satisfaction with pants crotch, shorter lower body had higher fit satisfaction with waist and abdominal parts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.57-67
• /
• 1984

The purpose of this study is to develop a devided skist Pattern drafting method for Korean Women between the ages of 18$\~$24 on the basis of their physical characteristics which differs from those of other races in its size and figure. The study procednras are as follows : 1, A new devided skirt pattern drafting method is developed based on the results of draping to find the essential measuring items for devided skirt construction, 27 items of KAIST measurement data analysis to establish representative and independent items and fitting tests. 2. To establish fittness and comfort in the new pattern comparing it with in a conventional one, asensory evaluation is applied. According to the statistical analysis of the results of the sensory evaluation, the findings are as followings ; 1. Composite reliability coefficient is 0.68. 2. Qut of 30 items, 25 items for fittness show significant differences (pp$\leqq$0.05, p$\leqq$0.01, P$\leqq$0.001) between the two, with the new pattern better fitted, presenting a pleasing appearance in hormony with the figure and contributing to the wearer's sense of wellbeing. 3. Hip crotch and hem dimensions for comfort show significant differences (p$\leqq$0.05) between the two, with the new pattern more comfortable, but no significant difference is showed between the two in activity variable. 4. The new pattern drafting method is shown in figuke 4.