• Title/Summary/Keyword: Crease Angle

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기성복 남자 바지 패턴 그레이딩에 관한 연구 -35-55세를 중심으로- (A Study on Grading Practices of Men's Pants in Apparel Industry)

  • 윤미경
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제13권6호
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    • pp.934-942
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    • 2011
  • This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

가염형 폴리프로필렌직물의 열처리에 따른 물성변화 (Effect of heat setting on physical properties of dyeable polypropylene(DPP) fabric)

  • 이신희;김은미
    • 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국염색가공학회 2008년도 제38차 학술발표대회
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    • pp.37-39
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to improve the defects of DPP fabric by heat setting and to describe the change of physical properties of DPP fabrics. The thermosetting was carried out in autoclave from 100 to 140$^{\circ}C$ temperature range for 10min.. In this study, we investigated the effect of the thermosetting temperatures on the structural, thermal, mechanical properties and dyeability of DPP fabrics. The melting peak of multi peak changed to single peak with an increased thermosetting temperatures. The melting energy(J/g), the tensile strength and elongation were found to increase with increasing temperature of heat setting. The diffraction peak at Bragg angle(2${\theta}$) about 13.8$^{\circ}$ were very strong, and diffraction intensity, d-spacing and half-width decreased with increasing thermosetting temperatures. On the other hand, the dyeability(K/S) and crease recovery decreased with an increasing thermosetting temperatures.

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활성화 폴리에틸렌 / 왁스 / 아크릴 공중합체의 블렌드에 의한 내구유연발수제의 제조에 관한 연구(II);면직물에의 발수가공 (Preparation of Durable Softening Water Repellents by Blends of Activated Polyethylene / Wax / Acrylic Copolymer(II);Water-Repellent Finish of Cotton Fabrics)

  • 김성계;신재현;박홍수
    • 한국응용과학기술학회지
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    • 제13권2호
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    • pp.47-53
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    • 1996
  • The procedure to prepare an acrylic emulsion water repellents by blending of arcylic copolymer, activated polyethylene, wax, and emulsifiers was published in the previous paper. After the treatment of the prepared water repellents on a cotton fabrics with and without textile finishing resin, washability, contact angle, tearing strength, and crease recovery were tested. As the result, there were remarkable improvements in physical properties. Proper curing temperature of the synthesized water repellents impellents was $150^{\circ}C$ : proper using concentration was 5wt% : sodium acetate was the best catalyst for water repellents among the used, and proper concentration was 1.0wt%.

Dyeable polypropylene 직물의 열처리에 따른 물성변화 (Effect of Heat Setting on Physical Properties of Dyeable Polypropylene Fabric)

  • 이신희
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제11권3호
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    • pp.481-487
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to improve the defects of dyeable polypropylene(DPP) fabric by heat setting and to describe the change of physical properties of DPP fabrics. The thermosetting was carried out in autoclave from 100 to $140^{\circ}C$ temperature range for 2 min. In this study, we investigated the effect of the thermosetting temperatures on the structural, thermal, mechanical properties(e.g., the strength and elongation) and dyeability of DPP fabrics. The melting energy(J/g), the tensile strength was found to increase with increasing temperature of thermosetting. The diffraction peak at Bragg angle($2{\theta}$) about $13.8^{\circ}$ were very strong and diffraction intensity increased with increasing thermosetting temperatures. And d-spacing and half-width decreased with increasing thermosetting temperatures. On the other hand, the dyeability(K/S) and crease recovery decreased with an increasing thermosetting temperatures.

회전 구동용 헤드 슬라이더의 부상높이에 관한 연구 (A Study on Flying Height of Head Slider in Rotary Type Actuator)

  • 이재헌;최동훈;윤상준;김광식
    • 대한기계학회논문집
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    • 제15권6호
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    • pp.1886-1896
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    • 1991
  • 본 연구에서는 부상높이를 예측할 수 있는 방법을 개발하고 연관된 변수들의 변동에 따른 부상높이를 검토함으로써 불안정한 극소 공기막 형성시 유발되는 자기헤 드와 하드 디스크간 정보손실 및 하드 디스크의 표면손상을 막고 고성능 자기기억장치 설계에 도움이 되고자 한다.

접힌 자국이 있는 멤브레인의 주름 거동 해석 (Analysis of Wrinkling for Creased Thin Membrane)

  • 우경식
    • 한국항공우주학회지
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    • 제36권9호
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    • pp.851-858
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    • 2008
  • 본 논문에서는 수직방향으로 접은 사각형 멤브레인의 주름 거동을 기하학적 비선형 후좌굴 해석을 사용하여 연구하였다. 멤브레인은 쉘 요소로 모델링 하였고 하중은 멤브레인의 코너에서 대각선 방향으로 가하였다. 해석에는 다양한 각도의 초기 전개각을 가지는 멤브레인을 고려하였고 접힌 자국이 없는 경우에 대해서도 해석을 수행하여 그 결과를 비교하였다. 해석결과 주름은 큰 코너하중이 가해진 지역에서 국부적으로 발생하였는데, 이 국부 주름은 하중 비의 증가에 따라 점차 성장하여 전역 주름으로 발전하였다. 또한 주름의 발생 및 성장 거동은 접힌 자국의 초기 전개각에 좌우되는 경향을 보였다.

아크릴 공중합체와 지방산 카르바미드의 블렌딩에 의한 내구유연발수제의 제조에 관한 연구;V. PET 직물에의 발수가공 (A Study on the Preparation of Durable Softening Water Repellent by Blending Acrylic Copolymer and Fatty Carbamide;Water Repelling Finish of PET Fabrics)

  • 임완빈;김성길;박홍수
    • 한국응용과학기술학회지
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    • 제13권3호
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    • pp.137-144
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    • 1996
  • Durable softening water repellents such as PODCW, PDDCW, and PEDCW were prepared by blending cationized polymers, fatty carbamide, waxes, and emulsifiers. The cationized polymers included poly (octadecyl methacrylate-co-2-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate) [PODC], poly (n-dodecyl methacrylate-co-2-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate) [PDDC]and poly (2-ethylhexyl methacrylate-co-2-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate) [PEDC]. After the PET fabrics were treated with these water repellents, water repellency, softness, and durability of the PET fabrics were examined by various methods : water repellency by the hydrostatic pressure and the contact angle methods, softness by crease recovery and tearing strength, and durability by washability, respectively. Rating of water repellency of PET fabrics treated with PODCW was $80^{+}$, but those treated with PDDCW and PEDCW were not high enough to be used in industry.

대기압 플라즈마를 이용한 용제형 및 수용성 접착제의 접착력 향상 (Adhesion Enhancement of Solvent type and Water Soluble Adhesive Using Atmospheric Plasma)

  • 정영식;설수덕
    • 접착 및 계면
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    • 제10권3호
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    • pp.148-153
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    • 2009
  • 용제 및 수용성 접착제를 도포한 몇가지 고분자 소재에 평판형 플라즈마 반응기로 플라즈마 전처리 방식을 이용하여 소재표면의 접착력을 향상 시켰다. 분위기 기류를 질소로 하고 유량을 30~100 mL/min, 반응시간은 0~30 s로 하여 밀도를 변화시킨 PU 소재를 주 물질로 하여 EVA foam, Leather (Action), Rubber 소재에 대하여 각 조건별로 플라즈마 처리시켜 처리 전후의 각 소재별 접촉각과 접착박리강도 측정을 통한 각소재의 접착력 변화와, SEM분석을 이용한 처리 전후의 표면 변화를 측정하여 플라즈마 처리의 영향과 효과를 산출하였다. 대기압 평판형 플라즈마 반응기를 이용하여 최적 조건인 기체유량 100 ml/min, 전처리시간 10 s에서 PU foam, EVA form, Leather (Action) 및 Rubber 소재의 접착력 향상을 확인하였다.

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Wool 직물의 나노 발수 발유가공 (Water and Oil Repellency of Wool Fabric Treated with Nano-type Finishing Agent)

  • 최보련;한삼숙;이문철
    • 한국염색가공학회지
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    • 제20권6호
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    • pp.26-34
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    • 2008
  • Wool fabric having high moisture content were treated with fluorocarbon-based water and oil repellent finishing agents by pad-dry-cure system. Three types of finishing agents which were regular-type or nano-type were adapted to compare the surface chemical composition, water and oil repellent property, crease recovery angle, and durability to repeated laundering. From the surface chemical compositions resulted by ESCA and C1s curve-fitting, it was shown that the regular-type finishing agent were easily taken off from the finished wool fabrics after repeated laundering. On the other hand, the fluoroalkyl groups of nano-type finishing agents turned round from fabric surface to fiber internal after repeated laundering. The water repellency of the wool fabrics treated with regular-type agent had a little changes according to the treatment condition changes and sharply decreased with repeated laundering. However, these values when treated with nano-type agents increased with the concentration and cure temperature and were maintained after 20 times laundering. The wool fabrics treated with nano-type agent had a great oil repellency irrespective of treatment conditions. Furthermore, the wrinkle recovery values of the wool fabrics treated with nano-type agents were higher than those of the fabrics treated with regular-type agent and were unchanged after 20 times laundering.

불포화(不飽和) 화강암질풍화토(花崗岩質風化土)의 전단강도(剪斷强度) 특성(特性) (The Shear Strength Characteristics of Weathered Granite Soil in Unsaturated State)

  • 조성섭;강예묵;지인택
    • 농업과학연구
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    • 제12권1호
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    • pp.86-100
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    • 1985
  • 불포화상태(不飽和狀態)에서의 화강암질풍화토(花崗岩質風化土)의 강도특성(强度特性)을 구명(究明)하기 위(爲)하여 5종류(種類)의 화강암질풍화토(花崗岩質風化土)와 1종류(種類)의 보통(普通)흙(사질(砂質)롬)을 택(擇)하여 불교란시료(不攪亂試料) 및 교란시료(攪亂試料)를 채취(採取)하여 삼축압축시험(三軸壓縮試驗)을 한 결과(結果)를 요약(要略)하면 다음과 같다. 1. 자연상태(自然狀態)에서의 건조밀도(乾操密度)는 다짐 시험(試驗)에서 구(求)한 최대건조밀도(最大乾操密度)보다 작은 값을 나타냈고 입도배합(粒度配合)이 양호(良好)한 흙에서 건조밀도(乾操密度)는 큰값을 나타냈다. 2. 함수비(含水比)의 증가(增加)에 따라 파괴강도(破壞强度)는 감소(減少)하였고 이 현상(現象)은 점착력(粘着力)이 큰 보통(普通)흙에서 더욱 현저하게 나타났다. 3. 화강암질풍화토(花崗岩質風化土)의 강도정수중(强度定數中) 점착력(粘着力)은 작고 내부마찰각(內部摩擦角)은 컸으며 함수비(含水比)의 증가(增加)에 따라 점착력(粘着力)보다 내부마찰각(內部摩擦角)에서 감소현상(減少現象)이 크게 나타났다. 4. 변형계수(變形係數)는 함수비(含水比)의 증가(增加)에 따라서 감소(減少)하였고 이 현상(現象)은 화강암질풍화토(花崗岩質風化土)보다 보통(普通)흙에서 더욱 크게 나타났다. 5. 파괴강도(破壞强度)는 액압(液壓)이 증가(增加)함에 따라 증가(增加)하였고 이 현상(現象)은 저함수비(低含水比)에서 더욱 현저하게 나타났다.

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