• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.225-229
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to trace and to identify the origin and meanings of the word ho-su(胡神) that is found in historical documents of Chosun dynasty period. Historical documents, books, and other written materials from Korea and China were used for this research. The word ho-su(胡神) of Korea was originated in Chinese. At the first, ho-su(胡神) was a name of a kind of sleeves. It is long and wide round sleeves with narrow wrist parts. The character ho(胡) means a jaw, lower part of a jaw, a jaw hung down, hing down and lower part. Thus, the word ho-su(胡神) is a compound word made with character ho(胡) and character su(神) sleeve. The direct meaning of ho-su(胡神) in characteristic shape of the sleeves. The second meaning of the ho-su(胡神) is the name of a dress with long and wide round sleeves with narrow wrists. The name of the ho-su as a name of a dress was taken from the name of the ho-su(胡神), a kind of sleeves.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.62-71
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• 2008

Costume elements are closely related with human living environment and also play an important role in the costume patterns. The East and the West have influenced and adopted each other's culture through mutual trade, which are well reflected in costume patterns and textile patterns. These days world wide fashion shows the designs applying costume details of the East and the West, which is much affected by the orientalism. The purpose of this study is to compare the sleeve patterns which take an important part in women's costume design of the Joseon Dynasty and the European Monarchy in the 16th century. Korean women's costume showed sleeves in rectangular shape with same width and long length, together with cuffs. Later they changed to diagonal shape of getting narrower toward the wrist. Western women's costume showed sleeves with puff and slash patterns. Then they were classified into French, British and Spanish styles which were getting narrower toward the wrist. Later they adopted the shape of leg of mutton which was puffed in middle and narrower toward the wrist. I n Korea and Europe, they showed respective changes in sleeve patterns, but also similarity of getting narrower toward the wrist. The East and the West are now exchanging their culture in every aspect such as politics, economics and social matters. Costume fashion is not an exception. The characteristic designs of traditional costumes are shown on global fashion, which is influenced by the orientalism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.220-224
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• 1999

This study is concerned with the names of is sa mai(잇사매) and ham sa mai(함사매). Origins and meanings of these terms were traced and examined. Some significant findings can be summarized as follows : Korean word is sa mai(잇사매) was a compound word. Korean character is (잇) is derived from Chinese character i, and sa mai(사매) in Korean means sleeves 神 in Chinese character. The character ham in Ham sa mai(함사매) is its origin in Chinese : Korean character ham was Korean pronounciation of the Chinese character, han. ham sa mai is a compound word of ham(함) (Korean), (han ) (Chinese) and sa mai(사매) sleeves(Korean). Thus, first characters of is(잇) in is sa mai(잇사매) and ham(함) in ham sa mai(함사매) are originated from Chinese, where as the word sa mai in the end of is sa mai and ham sa mai is pure Korean. Both character i and ham(han, Chinese) in Chinese means a jaw. Thus, both is sa mai(잇사매) and ham sa mai(함사매) means “jawed sleeves”. That is long and wide round sleeves with narraw wrists.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.71-85
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• 2003

The costume of the 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the graves of Tong-Rae Jwg Clan are studied in this paper. The remaining were used for filling up the coffin consists of 1 piece of Dopo(도포) from the grave of Jung, Kwang-Kyung, 7 pieces of Joongchimak(중적막), 1 piece of Sochng-eui(소창의), and 1 piece of pants from the grave of Jae-Hoo Jung, grand-son of Kwang-Kyung Jung. From these remainings, this study newly reveals or confirms : 1) Standards of transition Procedure of mid-l7th century's Dopo with gussets, 2) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Joongchimak with wide sleeves and side slits, 3) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Sochang-eui with narrow sleeves and side slits, 4) Typical style of pants in the 17th century, 5) The constructive methods for quilted fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.25-43
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• 2003

This study is to classify the types of Jikryung and to look into formative . periodic Characteristics. Results of analyzing can be described as follows. 1. Jikryung in the Chosun Era was classified according to whether it had a side hem. Jikryung which had side hem was reclassified according to the position of the side hem into inside, inside and outside and outside fold types and backward leaning type. Jikryung with no side hem was reclassified into types of closed and opened sides. 2. Concerning formative Characteristics, the type of inside fold was coexisted with the types of short front and long rear, the same front and rear, and narrow sleeves, bean chaff typed sleeves. Inside and outside fold type was used the type of short front and long rear, narrow sleeves. Outside fold type was used the type of same front and rear, bean chaff typed sleeves. Backward leaning type was used the same front and rear, wide sleeves. The types of closed and opened sides transformed from double Sup to single Sup and from narrow sleeves to bean chaff in its form and wide sleeves. 3. Concerning periodic Characteristics, the 1st period of Jikryung with side hem showed up the type of inside and outside fold, the 2nd period did the type of outside fold, The 3rd period did the type of backward leaning. Regarding Jikryung with no side hem, its 1st and 3rd periods saw the type of closed side, while its 2nd period coexisted with the types of closed and opened sides.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.85-94
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• 2006

In Korea, popular stars were the leaders of the latest fashion, who had the strong power in apparel market. Costume, especially wedding dress they worm became the focus of interest to single women of marriageable age and wedding dress co. This study was performed to research wedding dress design (silhouette, veil, sleeves, materials, and details) from 1960's to June. 2004. Resources were extracted from the weddings photos, 'My Wedding' magazine, 'Vogue Korea' magazine and web sites. The materials, which could not be judged on the photos, were researched from text articles. The popular stars were TV stars, musicians, and actresses. The results of this study were as follows: The wedding dress in Korea from 1960's to June 2004 had different distinguishing characteristics. 1. In 1960's, wedding dress was characterized with A silhouette, long veil, set in sleeves, and hair decoration. 2. In 1970's, H silhouette decorating by belt, long veil, puff sleeves, and ruffles hemline were in vogue. 3. In 1980's, Victorian style designed by long and wide width, the leg of mutton sleeves or tightly fitted sleeves, short veil and pearl coronet, flower decoration became popular. 4. In 1990's, to reach the elegance or romantic image, it was used race, ribbon, frill, etc., on the base of 1980's wedding dress design. Generally the girlish styles which expressed innocent and pure and feminine were in fashion. 5. In 2000's, the keyword of both luxury and simple were intended. Silhouette was designed variously, but it became slimmer and simpler. The decoration was splendorous with race, embroidery, and beads.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 2014

This study analyzes the styles of Baekje costumes by examining costume types and styles based on the research of old books and a comparative study of archaeological and historical Baekje art relics in Central Asia. The results of the study are as follows. 1. Through the comparative study of the records of old books, relic materials (Yangjikgongdo, Mural paintings of Takamatsuzuka Tumulus, Cheonsuguk Mandarasujang, Shosoin relics, and Haniwas), we can see that ancient Japanese costumes were influenced by the culture of Baekje costumes. 2. A comparative study of the records of relic materials of Baekje and Central Asia show that there were vigorous interchanges between the East and West. 3. Baekje costumes showed a great diversity in styles because they were based on Buyeo costumes developed in conjunction with vigorous overseas trade. 4. Baekje's upper garments are summarized as Boksam and Po for men and Yu, Banbi and Euisapo for women. Boksam and Yu styles varied as tunics and overlapped jackets with straight and round collars. Two types of sleeves coexisted. The sleeves of Hansung Baekje period were a diagonal lined style that was wide on the armhole and narrow on the wrist. The sleeves of Sabi Baekje period were a reversed diagonal lined style that is narrow on the armhole and wide on the wrist. Pants styles were summarized as Gon, Gunggo and Daegugo. There were not enough relics and references for the Baekje costumes; however, this study widens the possibility of the existence of various styles of Baekje costumes through inferences from available data.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.60-73
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• 2006

This study analyzes the Baekche official costume system, including the dress, cap and belt systems, by relating documentary records with the results of excavations. The study shows that the system differed depending on the time. A system of dress based on official ranks was instituted during the region of King Goi in the third century. The rap amd belt systems were begun in the first half of sixth century The official costume system, as recorded in the Chinese history $Sus{\u{o}}$, included many subdivisions of cap colors, which followed belt colors. According to $Gudangs{\u{o}}$, dress and cap systems changed in the seventh century. The official costume consisted of a $jacket(j{\u{o}}gori)$, trousers(baji), and coat(po). The coat had wide sleeves and reached below knees. Its collar had straight neckline. Officials of all rank wore silk caps and belts of matching colors. Officials above sixth rank used silver flower decorations on their caps. Officials wore wide-crouch trousers and generally adjusted the hems of the trousers, but this practice stopped in the sixth century. Officials wore shoes or boots depending on occasion. From a historical viewpoint, Baekche is important for having been the first Korean kingdom to establish a government organization. The salient feature of the system of organization established in A.D. 260(the twenty-seventh year of the region of King Goi) was the application of different colors to identify different ranks.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.197-211
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• 2016

Loulan was an ancient kingdom located on the northeast of the Taklamakan Desert, a diverging point between the north and south of Silk Road, on the east of the current Turpan, from the 2nd century BC and the 7th century A.D, absorbing and propagating culture of both sides through active trade. Meanwhile, as many previous research investigations suggest the early trade between Korea and the countries bordering on Western China, characteristics of Loulan costume have been found to have similarity to those of ancient Korean costume. Also, it can be compared to costume in other surrounding regions. Therefore, it is a highly valuable region in researching ancient costume. This study examined the historical background of Loulan and its relationship with ancient Korea, analyzed the clothes found in historic sites of Louland and Niya, and compared costume elements of Loulan and those of Korea. The result of the study shows that first, the Loulan Jeogori was based on the Jikryeonggyoim, with Chaksu, narrow sleeves and the length coming between below the chest and above the bottom, and the line decoration and waist belt were very similar to Korean costumes, as well as the Banryeong, curved collar and Bansu, short sleeves. Second, the types of pants included Gunggo, characterized by closed bottom and many creases, and Daegugo, wide-leg trousers, which are very similar in shape to the Korean Shilla lay sculpture, Stele To Martyr Yi Ch'a-don, Yangjikgongdo and Wangheedo. Third, in accessories as well, the Jowu stuck on the Gwanmo is similar in the shapes to Korean costume.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-70
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• 2004

The purposes of this study are to understand shapes, characteristics and source on the costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner. Baekche accepted to incense burner as one of developed culture through exchange with China. Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner includes mixed Thought of Confucian, Buddhism and Taoism from China. The five musicians showed in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner are symbols that include Confucian Ohang-thought and peaceful reign based on musical combination and arrangement. So, musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner to pray to God for Happiness showed as a kind of Genii. As a results of analyzing costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner are as follows; Upper garments which open in the center front have wide sleeves and tie up in high waist position. Under garments are long and wide skirts. Those costume styles of musicians were to follow spreaded costumes in the Continent at that time. In conclusion, costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner was showed to receive influence of costume style in China Whijinambukjo period.