• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.121-134
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to research of cultural symbol on Safavid lampas in Persia. The results are as follows. A significant feature of continuous pat-terns in lampas is the use of the human figure and a signature of designer's name in the Islamic world. Motifs can be identi-fied as Safavid lampas by the style of motifs such as birds leaves trees flowers on a gold or silver namely metal back-groud. the result shows that cultural symbol on Safavid lampas is connected with islamic culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.55-66
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• 2014

Baeja(背子), which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun(沈秀崙, 1534-1589), a civil official, has a distinctive pattern. Two rectangles are connected by button knots on both shoulders and below the armpits, and surround the front and back of the upper body. Also, the back is shorter than the front, while the center-front is not opened. It also has a round neckline without a collar. Jeojuji(楮注紙), which is a traditional Korean paper made from mulberry bark, is put between the outer shell and lining of this clothing as an interlining. The purpose of this study is to perform a morphological feature analysis of the Baeja to examine its characteristics and name, and clothes with similar features, attire relic, pictorial and ceramic materials as well as precedent studies were used in the analysis. The Baeja, which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun, has the same pattern as Yangdang(裲檔), which was worn in the ancient northern region and China. Its composition and the way it was worn are very simple. Also, the shorter back length can be used as evidence that it was worn as everyday outer clothing, and not in a ceremony. Jeojuji, used as an interlining, made it easy to sew and maintain attire pattern and played a role of maintaining warmth. Therefore, this Baeja is presumed to be an outer clothing simply worn in the everyday life for convenience and warmth. In regards to its morphological feature, it was most likely a Yangdang in Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.167-180
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to present the use of traditional culture and the direction of various fashion designs by developing and producing contemporary fashion designs on the Muslim costumes of the Chinese Hui minority. Based on research methods, the cultural background was investigated and the design characteristics were summarized. Based on the results of this survey, 4 sets of women's fashion were designed. The design intent was to feature Muslim traditional costumes and to adopt a functional contemporary design. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, simple and indecisive clothing shows the innocent and good side of the congregation. In this study, traditional dresses were used to make use of the simple silhouette and color, and to create a contemporary atmosphere, various materials, such as wool, glossy industrial complex, lace, and fur were used to create a modern sense design by adding diversity to the simple silhouette. Second, the biggest feature of the regimented Muslim costume focuses on a head cover and suggests a contemporary sense of hood improvement, and a design that can be used with two sides. These hooded head covers can provide fashion and diversity and can be proposed as functional. Third, contemporary Muslim fashion is gaining global attention and it is possible to develop various fashion designs based on traditional motifs. This study was able to increase the feminine image by changing the solemnity of the communal dress without discarding the foundation of the traditional religious culture based on the daily dress of the people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.958-967
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• 2009

Just as various religions of the world have multiple systems based on their own belief system respectively, religious costumes, which are the expression of religion, are varied in forms according to different religions. Nonetheless, this research attempts to examine the universal features of the variety of religious costumes. Since the range of this research is broad and the limit of study is clear, this research confines the study objects into world's four high religions. The purposes of this research are as followings; first, the investigation of the world's high religions, second, the study of the figurative attributes of religious costume to study and discuss the universality of figurative beauty and aesthetic value. Figurative attributes are distinct in religious costume. First, the non structural feature of composition, and the manner in which the costume is worn. Second, the rich silhouette covering the body. Third, the restraint and inhibition of decoration, and fourth, the preference of achromatic color and monotones. 'The beauty of concealing', derived from the religious absolute and chastity, 'The beauty of chastity' influenced by the restraint of decoration and design, and 'The beauty of nature' as the drapery and non structural feature are the universal aesthetic values. Human beings tend to contact the divine beings by pursuing the essential thing and concealing the body through religion. The forms of concealment and chastity, mentioned above are reflected in the usual costumes, affected by religion as well as religious costume.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.77-81
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• 2006

From the viewpoint of color perspective, black has more obvious effects to impart images than dress itself This study aims to examine black dress through the fashion history to highlight the aesthetic value of black and to make better use of black in designing. Black in fashion, particularly in the guise of the little black dress, became an indispensable feature of cosmpolitan style after World War I. Designers harnessed the power of black, drawn irresistibly to its innate qualities of drama and strength of line. For the past five hundred years, aside from the use of black for mourning as well as for religious, academic, legal and ceremonial dress, black with a greater or lesser dominance has been a fashion constant. Since then black has been an important color in fashion. How to use black in formative designs should be studied continuously.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.30-37
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• 2003

The most distinctive feature of the costumes of the Arctic regions from Alaska to Siberia centering around the Bering Sea connecting Asia to North America, is that each tribe makes clothes adequate to the climate and their lifestyles with animal hides obtained from hunting in their habitation. Furs or fish skins, the main materials for clothing, are characteristically cut into many pieces, and thus piece-joining patchwork is used to make or decorate garments. Patchwork is the technique that can create new designs with 3-dimensional and various combinations by modifying the simple materials, and also has the advantage of fitting the body without a certain cut line. Therefore, the patchwork found in the Arctic costumes may be developed from folk costume designs with limited materials like fur into new ones for modern or future costumes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.41-54
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• 2000

History of fashion and clothing is needed to understand modern fashion and to predict Future mode. The period of Romanticism in fine arts was from the end 18th century up to the first half of 19th century. The characteristics of shilouttes were found in the emphasis owomen's body line. This feature of romantic fashion is founded in 1960, 1970, 1980, 1990'mode. Major characters of this times are retro of romantic costume. As time goes by, more romantic fashion was set up and new corncern of 2000 fashion trend. The Characteristics of romantic image in 2000 of fashion trend are the emphasis of romantic details and decorations. Such as ruffle, frill, shirring, beads, spangle, sequin, flower. Trend colors are pink, lilac, aqua blue, yellow, green, pastel color. Trend materials chiffon, organza, satin, velvet, gauze, georgette, lace and glittery material. And floral print and stripe print. Forward­looking fashion is ethnic­romantic image influenced India. Trend and fashion have very close relationship and if it is fully comprehended, it will be good opportunity to awkardness againnst new fashion line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.69-83
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• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.30-46
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• 2008

This study aims to develop an academic costume design representing the university identity of Seoul Women's University. As a formal dress and uniform symbolizing the dignity of study, academic costume arouses self-esteem of the owner and represents the symbolic order. UI(University Identity) is a system that embodies the identity of the university and create a certain image, and thus actively delivers the image pursued by the university. The study method to develop a new academic costume design of Seoul Women's University includes the theoretical background of UI and academic costume, investigation on the current rendition of academic costume, home and abroad, and a survey to collect the basic data for academic costume design development. Most of the respondents presented negative opinions on the existing academic costume and graduation cap, which do not show any clear distinction from those of other universities. They made a pressing demand for the development of an academic costume that well represents the image of the university by reflecting the university feature and symbol. As a result of the survey, it turned out that they preferred an academic costume with short length balloon sleeves to the exiting one, and that as for neck line and front hook, those of the existing one were preferred. This study developed and presented 9 different models of graduation gowns and 5 different caps based on the theoretical investigation and survey concerning academic costume. It is expected that the academic costume representing the university identity not only arouses self-esteem of the owner, but also enhances the university's position.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.