• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.112-122
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• 2007

This study reviewed the costume mainly on the Joseon Giroyondo(耆老宴圖) between 17th 18th Century. In Joseon Dynasty, they produced paintings to commemorate the meeting of Girohwe(耆老會), namely Giroyon(耆老宴); this painting is Giroyondo. The feature of Giroyon depended on political purpose and social phenomenon. Therefore, the composition of figures in Giroyondo and their costume were seen differently. By its character, Giroyondo was classified into official one from Giroso(耆老所), private one arranged by the participants and Court Giroyon(宮中腸宴圖). People figured in Giroyondo are roughly divided into costume in Girosin(耆老臣) officials and minor officials. Girosin officials wore Hongdalyong(紅團領) and Samo(紗帽) in official Giroyondo while they wore Hungnib(黑笠.) and Jingnyong(直領) in private Giroyondo. In Court Giroyon, which was for classy and formal Court event, they wore Dalyong(團領) and Samo but in colors of blue and green. Minor officials were observed in two categories; those who wore Samo and Gakdae(角帶), and those in Dugeon(頭巾). However, they were not showed up in private Giroyondo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.41-52
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• 2004

The objective of this study is to contemplate both the formation and the aesthetic characteristics of the ballerina look represented in modern fashion by analyzing a ballet costume. The results of this study could be summarized as the following: the ballerina look is formed by ballet costume itself with being stick to or exposing human body line, or by casual dress mixed with a ballet costume; the materials consist of both the major materials for a ballet costume such as silk, chiffon, tulle, lace, or organza, and the usual materials for casual dress: a variety of color such as transparent, pastel etc. is also used with typically used colors like white and black: decoration is basically composed of ruffle, drape, gather and the distinctive accessory like toe shoes, ribbon tape, ankle warmer is used to show a feature of a ballet costume These formative characteristics of the ballerina look presented in modern fashion implies illusory, pure, and hybridity. traits. First, illusion of the ballerina look not only implicitly expresses a womans wish to experience a ballerina's fantastic world, but also recreates woman herself into a ballerina on a stage. Second, purity of the ballerina look makes design look feminine and smooth, which is expressed with girlish taste through materials and colors. Third, hybridity of the ballerina look suggests a standard of a new trend, which is active style, by adding comfortableness and flexibleness to romantic femininity.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.161-174
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• 2000

Today's advanced transport and mass media enables people to access easily and frequently to traditional costumes from different countries in the world. Consequently, fashion designers who are fascinated by the variety and beauty of traditional costumes, tend to adapt them to modern fashion design. The continuous study of traditional costumes at such time contains a meaning as a source of inspiration for the creation of a new fashion design. Therefore, among various costumes of the world, this study will focus on the costume of Palestine, that is situated at the crossroads of Europe, Asia and Afria and has exchanged various historical cultures with other cultural regions. It, especially, expects to provide a unique idea in the material modification field of today's fashion design by examining mainly the embroidery ornament which is the most distinctive feature of Palestinian costume. The conclusion was revealed that Palestinian women's costume largely consists of embroidered silk and cotton garments with a V-slitted square panel (gabeh) attached to the chest part. And a variety of luxurious embroidery was employed to emphasize different parts of the dress. These embroideries differ from area to area. Especially the embroidery from Bethlehem was well-known in many places and influenced those of other regions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

The dress and ornaments in the Taijiang were fashionable, which were densely populated with Miao nationality. Women's traditional festive dress in Taijiang included an embroidered blouse and a pleated skirt. The garments are decorated with plenty of ornamental designs. The colours of festive dress were as rich and gorgeous as those of fashinable desses. Embroidery was very popular in Taijiang and its principal feature is embroidery with loose, coloured floss silk. The image of patterns changed ingeniously and colourfully but do harmony. In the using of colour, one kind of the festive dress was in the main red, which means a bright dress. The colour of another kind of festive dress was blue, which means a dark dress. There were many kinds of silver ornaments for women. Taijiang was most outstanding in this respect. The great variety of silver ornaments was a unique feature of women's dress in Taijiang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.15-37
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• 2011

This study is on dancing dresses of the costumes of Gum-Mu(劍舞, sword dance) in southern, central, and northern region of Korea, focusing on the origin, characteristics and the way of dance. The reason why the Gum-Mu is full of local color is that royal Korean Gisaeng(妓生) and local Gisaeng returned to their hometown and propagated this dance to each regional Kyobang. They combined court sword with each local dance and music and formed the present style of regional Gum-Mu. Dance and music native to area, which has formed today's regional Gum-Mu. The composition of current dancing costume of the sword dance is Jeogori, Chima, Jeondae(戰帶), Jeonrib(戰笠), Kwaeja(快子) Also, The complement colors harmonizing with color of Yin-Yang & Five Elements. which are yellow, blue, white, red, and black, are usually used. And the masculinity in dance were expressed withmore use of blue, and red in the opposite but if a sword dance takes on masculine character, blue color is more used, if feminie character, reddish colors, such as pink and red, are used. Thus, JinJu, Honam, Haeju, Pyeongyang dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature blue color, Tongyeong, Kyeonggi, Court(seoul)dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature reddish color.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.47-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to grasp the meaning of retro-fashion, to research the formative feature characteristic and aesthetic values. Retro-fashion is one of the expression of spatiotemporal-eclecticism, The formative of modern Retro-fashion are as follows: First, Retro-fashion based on spatiotemporal-eclecticism have been come from 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s style of time, and the asia, africa, middle east, latin America in region. Second, the design inspiration and technique is used more primitive crafts and decoration like handcrafted material, handmade ornaments as dyeing and embroidery of bohemian, jacqwuard pattern, oriental beads, applique, new hippie touch, patchwork, smocking, primitive button, woods, ethnic motives. Third, modern Retro-fashion is reflection of human feelings as nostalgia from the past, it supplies the sense of fashion creativity and new ideas.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.89-97
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• 2003

This study is to review the development of calico printing pattern design for fabric through historical perspective. Calico is a cotton cloth named from Calicut, a city of India. It was first brought to England by the East India company in 1621. Although the name is generally given and plain white cotton cloth, and in America it is applied to small-scale printed cottons, today it applies to indian cotton cloth, coarse or fine, woven with colored geometrical large-scale and small-scale patterns, painted or printed. Therefore this paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of calico printing pattern from the early of 16th century to 21th century. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive calico pattern design in domestic cotton textile industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.31-49
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• 1998

This study is the primary basic study about the spatial feature of modeling of Fashion Design. Then, this researcher lays significance in establishing the basic system about the character of dress and its ornaments as modeling in spatial-formal, dimension, examining the feature of modeling closely through perception principle and offering the basic principle to plan and organize the modeling space for dress and its ornaments on the basis of it. To generalize the findings is as follows : First, the spatial system of modeling for dress and its ornaments is made with 3 elements such as space, human beings and dress and its ornaments. Second, the form of dress and its ornaments and the spatial organization start from the structural basis which is human body, and the sensible system of body is made through inter-action, but the aesthetic expression is complet-ed by the moment of body. Third, the characteristic principle of model-ing for dress and its ornaments which was suggested in Chapter IV is based on the visuo-per-ceptional modeling experience, and these thinking contents are inputted in cognition course as the invisible in formation in the new space plan and organization and activate the apperception course and aim at the action about aesthetic judgement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.5
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• pp.21-33
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• 2011

The aim of this study is to identify the formative feature of the Chippendale style of the 18th century and to understand the aesthetic feature of the Chippendale style applied in the modern fashion. This is significant in that new possibilities are proposed in fashion design in more holistic and multifaceted views by comparing and delving into the fashion vis-a-vis other fields in a bigger scope of the formative art. The Chippendale style furniture is a combination of various styles of different eras and regions such as Gothic and Chinese style based on the Rococo style. Today, It is regarded in fashion as a composite design of heterogeneous elements or very curvy decorative design. The Chippendale style of this kind is classified into the Rococo style, Gothic style and Chinese style. Depending on each classification, formative features including curves, asymmetry, decorativeness, geometrical feature, exoticism, compositeness and graceness were derived. In comparative studies, fashion and furniture of the Chippendale style have the similarity in formative features but there were some differences in the expressive method. This study analyzed the formative features of the Chippendale style represented in furniture and the modern fashion based on the Rococo-revival design in the modern fashion starting from 2000.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.1-15
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• 2003

Buttons in general reflect the culture of the society, and their values depend on practicality, decorative feature, and symbolism. Their infinite potential enables us to attempt various original changes in formative factors such as forms, patterns, colors, materials and sizes. In addition new styles, methods, and techniques are tried to show that the decorative feature becomes stronger today than it did in the past when the function was more important. Now buttons are not only a factor of clothing but have value as composite art works reflecting the pride, idea and culture of a nation. Moreover consumers' interest in new designs increases everyday as the moderns' desire for unique individuality rises. Button designs of Korea, however, are still far behind in the aspects of materials, qualities, and methods, facilities, and scale of production. And uniform mass production prevails without the buttons of creative and artistic values made due to the lack of specialized designers. Therefore it seems necessary to carry out historial studies simultaneously with the rising interest in button designs now. Prior to developing new designs, the study will examine those of western buttons that are the origin, going through relevant literature and data to define the characteristics of each era and type. It may provide basic data for developing the backward button designs of Korea.