• Journal of Life Science
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1120-1126
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• 2011

Rosa multiflora thunberg belonging to Rosaceae is widely distributed in East Asia including Korea and Japan, and has been reported to have tormentic acid and rosamultin. To develop a new natural anti-inflammatory agent for cosmetics, we investigated the inhibitory effects of inflammation in Rosa multiflora root (R. multiflora root). The biological activity and anti-inflammatory effects were investigated by water, ethanol, methanol and acetone extracts of R. multiflora root. The measurements of polyphenol content from R. multiflora root were highest in water and acetone extracts, at 57.48 ${\pm}$ 0.88 mg/g and 67.05 ${\pm}$ 0.56 mg/g, respectively. The result of DPPH, ABTS and superoxide anion radical scavenging effects showed over 50% efficacy at 50 ${\mu}g/ml$ in ethanol, methanol and acetone extracts. Hyaluronidase inhibition effect showed over 60% efficacy at 500 ${\mu}g/ml$ in ethanol, methanol, and acetone extracts. Nitric oxide radical inhibition effect of R. multiflora root ethanol extracts showed over 30% efficacy at 500 ${\mu}g/ml$. We investigated the effect of R. multiflora root extracts on nitric oxide (NO) production of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) in LPS-induced RAW 264.7 macrophage cells. The result showed that R. multiflora root extracts have an inhibitory effect on NO production and iNOS expression and also can be used as an anti-inflammatory agent. These antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of R. multiflora root show applicant potential application as a functional cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.149-155
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• 2017

This study was carried out to investigate the hair protection effect of fermented black soybean extracts. The morphological characteristics, tensile strength and constitutional changes of the hair were analyzed and compared when the hair was chemically oxidized and then treated with fermented black soybean extract. As a result, treatment of oxidizing agent on virgin hair caused damage on the cuticle layer of the epidermis and decreased in tensile strength of hair from $14.32{\pm}0.83g/cm^2$ to $12.32{\pm}0.79g/cm^2$. FT-IR analysis showed the peaks at 1,077, 1,041, and $801cm^{-1}$ of the hair treated with oxidizing agent were increased compared to peak values of virgin hair, indicating that cystein in hair was decreased which is crucial to disulfide bond between keratin. On the other hand, when the damaged hair is treated with the fermented black soybean extract, cracks in the cuticle layer of the epidermis were filled, tensile strength was restored to $14.27{\pm}0.96g/cm^2$ and the ratio of oxidized cysteine in hair was decreased. These results suggest that the fermented black soybean extract is worthy of further investigation as a protective material for hair damaged by oxidizing agents.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.405-408
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• 2004

Several hydroxamic acid derivatives are synthesized to observe retinoidal effect and transactivation potential for $RAR{\alpha}/{\gamma]$ is screened. Among the synthesized compounds, N-(4-N-hydroxycarbamoyl )phenyl) [4-(tert-butyl )phenyl] carboxamide (2f) showed the best compatibility for potent $RAR{\alpha}/{\gamma].$ The acidic hydroxy of hydroxamic acid was easily deprotonated to form an enolate. A formed enolate has a similar role like that of all-trans-retinoic acid. This is the first example of the hydroxamic acid derivative with retinoidal activity. The retinoidal activity of 2f was further confirmed by enhancing activity for the expression of retinoid-responsive genes. To evaluate the possibility for anti.-aging agent, effect on the expression of MMP-1 was measured comparing with all-trans-retinoic acid and retinol. At 10 uM treatment, compound 2f inhibited the expression of MMP-1. These results suggest that new hydroxamic acid derivative 2f could be used as a promising anti-aging agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.153-159
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• 2011

In this study, we investigated rice bran fermented by Bacillus subtilis (RFB) at $40^{\circ}C$ for 36 h to develop a new natural antioxidant and whitening agent for new natural cosmetics. RFB showed reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities in 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical, superoxide radical scavenging activities and hydroxyl radical scavenging activities at a concentration of $100 \;{\mu}L$/mL. DPPH, superoxide radical scavenging activities and hydroxyl radical scavenging activities were higher in the RFB than in the RB. Inhibitory activity on auto-oxidation of linoleic acid is also highest at a concentration of $100 \;{\mu}L$/mL. RFB showed the higher inhibitory activity than RB in auto-oxidation. RFB reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 80 % at a concentration of $100 \;{\mu}L$/mL. Therefore, we suggest that RFB could be used as a useful antioxidant and whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.103-109
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• 2005

UV irradiation leads to distinct changes in skin connective tissue, which is degradation of collagen. Many of these alterations in the extracellular matrix are mediated by matrix metalloproteinases. In this study, to develop a new anti-aging agent, we screened the antioxidant activity of solvent fractions from ethanolic extract of Melothria Heterophylla. Among the four solvent fractions tested, the EtOAc fraction exhibited the highest antioxidant activity. It was investigated the inhibitory effect of the EtOAc fraction on the expression and activity of MMP-1 in UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts. The EtOAc fraction inhibited the activity of MMP-1 in a dose dependent manner with the $IC_{50}$ values of $9{\mu}g/mL$. Also, UVA-induced MMP-1 expression was reduced about $90\%$ by $100{\mu}g/mL$ of the EtOAc fraction but MMP-1 mRNA expression was not inhibited. Therefore, we conclude that the EtOAc fraction significantly inhibits MMP-1 expression at the protein level. From these results, we suggest that the EtOAc fraction from M. heterophylla could be used as a new anti-aging agent for the photo-damaged skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.305-310
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• 2005

To obtain effective and safe depigmenting agents, we investigated the effects of Scirpi rhizoma, a medicine among Chinese herbs, on melanogenesis. Dried S. rhizoma was refluxed with 70% aqueous ethanol and the extract was evaporated to dryness. To determine the effects as a whitening agent, various in vitro tests were performed such as free radical scavenging activity, melanin formation assay, tyrosinase activity and expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2(western blot and RT-PCR) in B16 melanoma cells. S. rhizoma showed scavenging activities of free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) with the $IC_{50}\;of\;638{\mu}g/mL$ against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and $21.7{\mu}g/mL$ against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. S. rhizoma significantly inhibited melanin production in B16 melanoma cells. S. rhizoma treatment(48 h) suppressed the biosynthesis of melanin up to 27% at 100{\mu}g/mL$ and reduced tyrosinase activity up to 31% at $100{\mu}g/mL$ in B16 melanoma cells. S. rhizoma was also able to significantly inhibit tyrosinase and TRP-1 expression in protein and mRNA level. These results suggest that S. rhizoma inhibited melanin biosynthesis by regulating tyrosinase activity and expression in B16 melanoma cells. Therefore, S. rhizoma may be useful as a new antioxidant and whitening agent to inhibit melanogenesis.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.31-42
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• 2020

Horse fat is known to be an effective ingredient in Asia, and the horse fat itself, which is mixed with other ingredients at the additive level, is often sold as a finished product. In this case, physical properties of the horse fat raw material are important. Many horse fats produced in Korea (Jeju) have low temperature stability, so if not stored at low temperatures, segregation may occur. In the case of Japanese horse fat, it is partially hydrogenated or is used the solid phase as the horse fat by separating the liquid phase and the solid phase that is harder and more stable than the horse fat of Jeju. In this study, the physical properties were tested to improve the temperature stability even without the partial hydrogenation process of Jeju horse fat. Various oil gelling agents were used in the study. Results confirmed that the physical properties of the hydroxystearic acid added Jeju horse fat were improved. In addition, stability evaluations at temperatures of 25 ℃, 40 ℃, 45 ℃ and flow behavior evaluations at temperatures of 25 ℃, 30 ℃, 40 ℃ were performed for Jeju horse fat with hydroxystearic acid, 100% Jeju horse fat, and 100% Japanese horse fat. Results showed that the Jeju horse fat improved in flow behavior by adding hydroxystearic acid similar to that of Japanese horse fat. In addition, when the crystal state was observed under a microscope, the thermal stability was improved by decreasing the size of the needle-type crystals with the addition of hydroxystearic acid. Jeju horse fat containing hydroxystearic acid was found to have no physical problems even when stored at room temperature for a long time.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.651-661
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• 2021

Eruca sativa, called arugula, is a perennial plant in the Brassicaceae family, an edible plant commonly used in Italian cuisine. To study as a cosmetic material application E. sativa was extracted with 70% ethanol (ES). Then ES was fractionated using n-hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, n-butyl alcohol and water (EHex, EEA, ECHCl₃, EBuOH and EDW). EEA showed mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity. ES, EEA and EBuOH showed inhibition of tyrosinase activity. As a result, ES is expected to have skin whitening efficacy. ES was applied to 0.05, 0.1% the toner and emulsion formulation to test the stability. The anti-microbial activity of eight bacteria and fungi including Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes which cause dermatitis and acne was evaluated. EEA showed effects in all of microorganisms. The toner and emulsion containing ES with 0.05, 0.1% were passed in the challenge test. At -20, 4, 25, 55 ℃ and daylight, there was no significant change on pH, viscosity for 4 months. However, emulsions had phase separation phenomenon at 55 ℃, so the base formulation needs improvement. In addition, through the skin penetration test, EEA penetrated 0.058% in 6 hr, predicting the clinical efficacy. This means that E. sativa can contribute whitening agent and the synergistic effect of preservatives.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.407-415
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• 2013

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activities on HaCaT and the whitening effects on B16F1 melanoma cells of Dendropanax morbifera leaf extract. In an antioxidative activity assay using HaCaT cells, the ethyl acetate ($50{\mu}g/ml$) and aglycone fractions ($25{\mu}g/ml$) of the D. morbifera leaf extract didn't exhibit any characteristics of cytotoxicity. When HaCaT cells were exposed to a single large dose ($800mJ/cm^2$) of UVB, the extracts protected the cells against UVB radiation. When HaCaT cells were treated with 10 mM $H_2O_2$ and $4{\mu}M$ rose bengal, the ethyl acetate ($6.25{\sim}50{\mu}g/ml$) and aglycone ($6.25{\sim}25{\mu}g/ml$) fractions protected the cells against oxidative damage in a concentration dependent manner. When the whitening effects of D. morbifera leaf extract were tested in melanoma B16/F1 cells treated with the a-melanocyte stimulating hormone (${\alpha}$-MSH), the extracts inhibited ${\alpha}$-MSH-stimulated intra/extracellular melanogenesis in a concentration dependent manner. The inhibitory effects of the ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions of D. morbifera leaf extract were 21% and 44% at $25{\mu}g/ml$, respectively. Both are more effective than arbutin (15% at $25{\mu}g/ml$) which is known as a whitening agent. These results indicate that fractions of the D. morbifera leaf can function as cell protectants and natural antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skins exposed to UV radiation by quenching and/or scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protecting cells against ROS. In addition, fractions of the D. morbifera leaf can be applied to new whitening cosmetics because of their inhibitory effects on ${\alpha}$-MSH stimulated melanogenesis in B16F1 melanoma cells.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.337-345
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• 2011

In this report, we have investigated the functional properties change of phytochemicals by the encapsulation using water soluble host, ${\beta}$-cyclodextrin. The cream, shampoo, bodywash, and hair tonic containing phytochemical supramolecules were produced by mixing the surfactants, fragrances and the oriental herbal extracts encapsulated with ${\beta}$-cyclodextrin. Shampoo and bodywash including the encapsulated phytochemicals exhibited anti-growth activity against Gram (+) and Malassezia furfur which is known to cause dandruff. In cytotoxicity test against HDF (human dermal fibroblast), we could not detect any toxicity when the supramolecules content was less than 1 mg/mL. Our results suggest that the supramolecule of ${\beta}$-cyclodextrin with phytochemicals could be a safe anti-bacterial agent for cosmeceuticals.