• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.457-468
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• 2003

Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products\ulcorner In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.227-230
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• 2007

The multi-lamellar and liquid crystal structures have drawn great public attention in the functional cosmetic and skin-related medicinal areas recently. The structure of an emulsion containing aqueous phase as a binding water and fixed oil phase components forming an association compound of the multi-lamellar structure can reconstruct the intercellular lipid lamellar structure in the stratum corneum and restore barrier function of the skin. In this study, we investigated the beneficial effect of bio-mimic liquid crystal emulsions (BLCE) containing higher fatty alcohol, lecithin, and cholesterol on the skin barrier function, and evaluated its cytotoxicity.

• Archives of Pharmacal Research
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.12-18
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• 1991

The effect of urea and urea derivatives on the percutaneous absorption of salicylic acid and sodium salicylate through the skin of rabbit from petrolatum ointment was investigated. It was found that addition of urea or urea derivatives to the ointment base significantly increased the percutaneous absorption of the drugs in proportion to the concentratoin of the additive. The percutaneous absorptoin-enhancing activities of these compounds were that urea derivatives with the more and longer alkyl substituents showed the stronger activities. These activities of urea and urea derivatives were ascribed to the binding of these compounds with the lipids and proteins of the stratum corneum of the skin and the swelling of the tissues, which leads to the reduction of the barrier property of the layer. The preliminary skin irritation test showed that urea and urea derivatives were quite non-irritating to the skin. These results suggest that urea derivatives have a strong possibility to be developed as a percutaneous absorption enhancer.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 1996

Recently, in vitro stratum curneum model was a useful tool to evaluate the skin condition such as tranespidermal water loss, skin hydration and etc.. In this study to evaluate the alteration of SC with aging in hairless mouse, we measured TEWL using in vitro SC model, SC lipid, and outer corneocytes area. Although the total SC lipid was rich about 30% in 8 week old mouse compared with that of 82 week old mouse, the TEWL values were higher in the former than that of the latter. The outer corneocytes area was 559 $\pm$ 65 $mu extrm{m}$2 in 8 week old mouse and 755 $\pm$ 56 ${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$2 in 82 week old mouse. So the barrier function was reinforced with aging. This result suggested that the reinforced barrier function is one of the defense systems against the outer enviornment and the decreased skin function with aging.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.313-321
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• 2008

오래전부터, 많은 여성들은 자신들의 젊음을 연장하고, 외모를 더 아름답게 가꾸고, 이를 죽을 때까지 유지하는 것을 바래왔다. 이에 의사와 약사들뿐만 아니라, 많은 화장품 연구자들도 노화와 관련된 기술개발에 총력을 기울여 왔다. 따라서, 이들 연구자들은 노화방지를 위한 새로운 원료를 찾고, 이를 안정화하고, 피부로 전달하는 기술개발에 항상 관심을 쏟아왔다. 뛰어난 노화방지 화장품 개발을 위해서, Ubiquinone의 일종인 ldebenone에 대해 연구하였고, 이를 비수계 피부유사막 기술을 가지고 캡슐화하고 약물전달하는 연구를 진행하였다. 먼저, 편광현미경(PM, Polarized Microscope), X-선 회절분석(XRD, X-ray Diffractions) 및 시차주사열량계 (DSC, Differential Scanning Calorimetry)를 이용하여 Idebenone을 담지한 피부유사막 액정을 비수계 조건에서 구조 및 열적특성을 조사하였다. 그 결과 비수계 조건에서도 규칙적으로 패킹(Packing)된 지질이중층(Lipid bilayer)과 용매의 연속층으로 이루어진 고밀집된 라멜라(Lamella) 구조의 형성유무와 이때의 상거동을 확인할 수 있었다. 결론적으로 높은 극성도로인해 물분자와 접촉하면 불안정해지는 경향이 있는 Idebenone을 비수계 조건에서 각질층(SC, Stratum Corneum)과 구조 및 조성이 유사한 피부유사막을 디자인하여 안정하게 캡슐화 하였다. 이를 적용한 화장품은 모든 보관조건에서 유화입자의 안정성을 유지함을 확인하였고, Idebenone의 활성역가 또한 $40^{\circ}C$에서 6개월 동안 약 90%이상을 유지하는 우수한 결과를 나타냈다.

• Applied Microscopy
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.135-140
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• 2008

In this study, I investigated on the ultrastructure of scalp skin from full term baby mummy by using transmission and scanning electron microscopy. The baby mummy was found within the uterus of a 16th century (Joseon Dynasty) mummified woman aged 20${\sim}$30 years old. In scanning electron microscopic study, I found that the outer surface of scalp skin containing of sweat gland and stratum corneum are well preserved. The skin of the scalp measured about 1 mm in thickness and the epidermis was well distinguished from the dermis. In transmission electron microscopy, the shape and structure of the epithelial cells were not confirmed. I also observed well preserved collagen fibers composed of collagen fibrils with cross banding pattern ultrastructurally. But, the other connective cells were not observed due to decomposition of the dermis.

• YAKHAK HOEJI
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.148-153
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• 2003

Skin moisture is an important factor in skin health. Measurement of moisture content can provide diagnostic information on the condition of skin. In this study, a portable near-infrared (NIR) system was newly integrated with a photo diode array detector that has no moving parts, and this system has been successfully applied for the evaluation of human skin moisture. Diffuse reflectance spectra were collected and transformed to absorbance using 1 nm step size over the wavelength range of 1100 nm to 2200 nm. Partial least squares regression (PLSR) was applied to develop a calibration model. For practical use for the evaluation of human skin moisture, the PLS model for human skin moisture was developed in vivo using the portable NIR system on the basis of the relative water content values of stratum corneum from the conventional capacitance method. The PLS model showed a good correlation. The calibration with the use of PLS model predicted human moisture with a standard error of prediction (SEP) of 3.5 at 1120∼1730 nm range. This study showed the possibility of skin moisture measurement using portable NIR system.

• YAKHAK HOEJI
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.115-121
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• 2005

In this study, the performance of a portable NIR system and a FT NIR spectrometer were compared to determine water content of hairless mouse skin. The stratum corneum parts wer e separated from the epidermal tissues by trypsin solution. NIR diffuse reflectance spectra of hairless mouse skin were acquired using a fiber optic probe. In the near infrared, water molecules show two clear absorption bands at 1450 nm from first overtone of O-H stretching and 1940 nm from the combination involving O-H stretching and O-H deformation. It was found that the variations of O-H absorption band according to water content. Partial least squares regression (PLSR) was applied to develop a calibration model. The PLS model showed a good correlation between NIR predicted value and the absolute water content of separated hairless mouse skin, in vitro. For both the portable and the FT NIR spectrometer, These studies showed the possibility of a rapid and nondestructive skin moisture measurement using NIR spectroscopy. The portable NIR spectrometer with a photodiode arrays-microsensor could be more rapidly applied for the determination of water content with comparable accuracy with the performance of a FT spectrometer .

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.315-321
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• 1996

It has been indicated that problems associated with insulin iontophoresis are low bioavailability, slow absorption rate and the use of high dosage. Pretreatment of skin as a method of solving these problems was used in alloxan-induced diabetic white rabbits. Skins were treated with skin needle, electric razor, knife razor and scotch tape. Transport data shows that insulin delivery was enhanced significantly by the treatment which disrupt the barrier properties of stratum corneum. The data also shows that insulin absorption lasted for several hours after the cessation of iontophoresis. The degree of skin treatment was estimated by measuring the electrical resistance of skin. When the skins were treated with skin needle and electric razor, the standard deviations of resistance were small, which suggests the possibility of uniform delivery of insulin. The dermal responses after the invasive delivery were evaluated in accordance with OECD Guideline. It seems that electrical resistance of the skin correlate well with the dermal irritation.

• Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry
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• v.68
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• pp.238-245
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• 2018

The skin experiences constant physical stimuli, such as stretching. Exposure to excessive physical stimuli stresses the skin and can accelerate aging. In this study, we applied a method that allowed human fibroblasts and keratinocytes to be perfused with media to form 3D skin equivalents that were then uniaxially 10%-stretched for 12 h per day (at either 0.01 or 0.05 Hz) for up to 7 days to form wrinkled skin-on-a-chip (WSOC). There was more wrinkling seen in skin equivalents under 0.01 Hz uniaxial stretching than there was for non-stretched skin equivalents. At 0.05 Hz, the stratum corneum almost disappeared from the skin equivalents, indicating that stretching was harmful for the epidermis. At both frequencies, the production of collagen and related proteins in the skin equivalents, such as fibronectin 10 and keratin, decreased more than those in the non-stretched equivalents, indicating that the dermis also suffered from the repeated tensile stress. These results suggest that WSOCs can be used to examine skin aging and as an in vitro tool to evaluate the efficacy of anti-wrinkle cosmetics and medicines.