• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.732-751
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• 2022

In this study, we aimed to apply 3D digital printing to basic clothing production and to propose futuristic fashion design and production methods that correspond to contemporary trends. Literature on future trends, dynamism, mechanical aesthetics, and experimentalism were used to define the characteristics of "futurism." Based on theoretical considerations about futurism, we created fashion designs using 3D digital printing methods. These designs were produced using the aesthetic characteristics of futurism; the 3D digital clothing program; and application of digital printing technologies to futuristic silhouettes, colors, and materials. The results were as follows: First, with the application of futurism as a fashion motif, we pursued collaboration between artistic work and fashion, and we then explored the possibility of creative expression. Second, harmony between achromatic and chromatic colors revealed even better dynamism and activeness, and the potential to express dynamism was observed. Third, with the development of fashion design processes based on 3D digital printing methodologies, it was found to be possible to eliminate the limitations of time and space, solve problems related to limited budget or communication, and positively influence the fashion industry by enhancing convenience and diversity. Fourth, with the development of fashion design that utilizes digital printing, it was found that problems related to time, space, or limited budget were able to be solved, as compared to the use of traditional printing and image reproduction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.97-111
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• 2023

Dynamic orphism images expressed with abstraction and construction in color are often found in modern fashion. Orphism stressing color is one of the many art trends that influence fashion. This work aims to examin its expressive effects and characteristics that appear in fashion and provide basic materials for fashion design study. This study proceeds with the following steps. First, the study takes on a theoretical examination of the orphism trend using a literature review. Second, based on its results, modern fashion's expressive features influenced by orphism are analyzed. Third, the study draws expression effects in modern fashion from these characteristics. The study coverage is confined to domestic and foreign collections released in the 21st century. The study contents come from an Internet-base domestic and international database and published material, including dissertations and books. Orphism expression effects are found in the following ways in modern fashion. First, it lies in the abstraction effect of color. This feature arrays flat geometric figure on the clothing surface and applies a strong sense of color inside it, as if color has an abstractive structured design. Second, it gives a dynamic sense visually to the clothes all at once by stressing the relation among and between the colors with powerful contrast. Third, it has a collage effect of color. This effect develops into an organic combination composed of geometric plane figures with intense complementary colors in a single piece of clothing. Expression types that presents the orphism effect in fashion are divided into clothing showing traditional orphism characteristics faithfully and clothing expressing conventional orphism characteristics mixed with modern trends. Further developed orphism fashion can be classified by the playful type, with graffiti added onto an orphism color structure, and the destructive type, where traditional orphism color orders are taken apart and reformed into a new color order.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.61-76
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is the development of an experimental design that aims to implement three-dimensional fashion design by observing the human body, extracting and combining geometric shapes and forms, and focusing on attempts to decompose the geometry of the human body in art history. Considering the characteristics of fashion design, which inevitably reflect human images visually, this study considered works by deriving geometric shapes and forms of the human body and focusing on decomposition and combination to apply them to fashion design. The results obtained through the development of fashion design through decomposition and combination based on geometric human body analysis are as follows. First, geometric analysis of the human body as an object of expression continues from the history of Cubism to modern fashion design. Second, the geometric shapes of the human body that appear in contemporary fashion design maximize visual effects through three-dimensional composition, emphasizing simplicity while showing originality through various expressions. Third, when exploring the geometric shapes of a moving human body, it was possible to extract a wide variety of shapes and forms through drawing and simplifying the human body's movements. Fourth, the formative method of fashion design was introduced and used for the aesthetic combination of objects for fashion design through decomposition and combination. This study was able to show unique and diverse combinations of visually concise and ordered geometric shapes in the expression of fashion design by decomposing and combining them. The significance of these geometric forms is that they can diversify formative informativeness in the expression of fashion design with modern compositional beauty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.13-28
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of hippie style in emerging brands pursuing the hippie spirit, examine the changes in hippie style, and apply them to the design development process to propose a hippie style design that reflects contemporary characteristics. The research method of this study was used to grasp the characteristics and current status of hippie style based on a literature review and prior research. Through the analysis of Bode and Story mfg, a new brand that reflects the hippie spirit, the design expression methods and characteristics of modern hippie style were derived, and based on the analysis, the design of the 3D CLO virtual outfit was developed. The results of the study are as follows. First, in addition to the use of eco-friendly materials, the digital technology of the CLO 3D program was applied to the design development process, which made it possible to increase sustainability from the production process. Second, by creating a retro design centered on a striped pattern expressing freedom, revolution, and equality, and a handcrafted design based on a tie-dye pattern, the design was able to express the hippie spirit of loving nature, and through this, a new direction of eco-friendly and modern fashion design was presented.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.215-231
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• 2024

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021-2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection's outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.99-112
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• 2024

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of 'Korean Chic' through the collections of Korean designer Eudon Choi, who has gained prominence in the international fashion market. The term 'Korean Chic' encompasses four main traits: coexistence, eclecticism, practicality, and uniqueness. First, coexistence involves blending masculine and feminine elements as well as traditional and modern aspects. This is evident in Choi's use of strong, angular designs typically seen in menswear alongside soft silhouettes and feminine touches found in womenswear. Additionally, traditional Korean hanbok elements are harmoniously integrated with modern design techniques. Second, eclecticism is seen in the balanced mix of direct and subtle expressions, including the fusion of hanbok details with diverse fashion elements, and the combination of monochromatic and vivid colors. This trait also involves blending strong and delicate features to create a dynamic and versatile look. Third, practicality is a cornerstone of Choi's design philosophy. He emphasizes the importance of creating wearable yet innovative pieces that are suitable for daily wear. His collections feature practical materials and items that prioritize comfort without compromising creativity. Last, unique is highlighted through hidden details and unexpected design elements. Choi often incorporates surprising prints or decorations that are not immediately visible, adding an element of discovery and delight for the wearer. This can include witty combinations of traditional and contemporary elements, as well as formal and casual styles. Through study aims to shed light on the design identity of Korean fashion designers by examining the characteristics of Korean Chic in Eudon Choi's work. It also calls for further research on other Korean designers to enhance the understanding and global recognition of Korean fashion's unique aesthetic and growing influence in the international fashion scene.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.251-268
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• 2018

This study suggests a fashion design using aesthetic characteristics of works by Kate MccGwire, a modern sculptor paying attention to soft sculpture materials such as feathers. In this research on MccGwire works, their internal meanings may be derived as the dualism of familiarity, movement and consciousness. Works also have aesthetic characteristics of overlapping, fluidity and twist. Using such characteristics, 4 one piece dresses and 2 vest dresses were made. Research findings are as follows. First, aesthetic characteristics of MccGwire works could be expanded into expressive areas of silhouettes and details in fashion. Second, visual flow and concentration could be expressed by gradual coloration of feather colors. Third, dart manipulation could be applied naturally by details and curve silhouettes of fashion design. Fourth, touch of feather material could be expressed fully by leaving the edge of garments raw. Fifth, spatiality of fashion could be implemented partially by applying decorative saddle stitching to costume design details. This study explored a potential of soft sculpture occurred during a transitional process of objet pursued by 20th century's avant-garde artists applicable to fashion design ideas that suggested methods for contemporary creative design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.687-699
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• 2011

Folk costumes in East Asia are characteristic in their colors of the five-element colors based on natural colors or achromatic colors (such as white or black) that imply the beauty of nature or the beauty of naivety. The Asian look adopts forms of Asian costumes into western costumes in terms of structure, silhouette, ornament, pattern, and color; in particular, color had very limited attributes. This study is a comparative study on colors, shown in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look. It discovered the differences of color in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look to discuss the backgrounds of difference. For research, it simultaneously conducted literary reviews and empirical research based on the Asian look. Asian colors that appeared in some costumes of the Asian look were influenced by East Asian costumes, while the primary color of playfulness or color for low chroma or black exuding a contemporary nuance (common in the western fashion) were prevalent. This revealed that the costume that had the attribute of playfulness in terms of structure, ornament, or patterns is adopted in western fashion through the fusion of eastern forms and pastiche. Colors of the Asian look are different from those of East Asia with superficial imitation, in which all the East Asian spirits and symbolism are lost. While folk costumes of East Asia hold symbolism derived from Asian spirits, the Asian look disintegrates the ideology of East Asian costumes and replaces it with a Postmodern playfulness.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.91-102
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• 2019

Tibet has a long history and many traditions that feature colorful costumes. This study analyzes the similarities and differences in the use of multicolored stripes in the Korean Saekdong (색동: stripes of many colors) and Tibetan folk costumes. The analyses were done within the framework of Tibet's cultural and religious background and the characteristics of the region's traditional costumes. For this study, literature and photographs from books and the Internet that record the history of Tibet's traditional costumes were analyzed. The results show that the use of various colorful stripes was common in the Bangjeon (帮典) apron, one of the greatest costumes in Tibetan history. A Bangjeon is made of wool of multiple colors and has horizontal lines as compared with the silk Saekdong's vertical lines. In addition, they have a multicolored striped band on the sleeves which reminds one of the traditional Korean jacket with its Saekdong sleeves. However, these multicolored stripes appear in more parts of the Saekdong (such as the hemline and front collar) when compared with contemporary Korean costumes. Moreover, the multicolored bands are noticeable in several ornaments from the time, which suggests that Tibetans and Koreans were very fond of using multicolored stripes. Costumes from the Goguryeo (高句麗) dynasty indicate that Tibetans, like the Mongols and Manchus, were very similar to Koreans as they had multicolored garments and Paji pants in common.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.