• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.764-776
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men's collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men's collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l'oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men's fashion design using types of trompe l'oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l'oeil as being widely used in contemporary men's fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.441-456
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• 2016

This study considers the modern expression of oriental esthetics by analyzing the fashion design with the Chinese ink technique based on the concept of Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung, which was regarded as the best rule of art creation in oriental history. This study was performed by conducting a literature review of related books and advanced studies, and then, collection analysis was done with photos derived from fashion websites (seoulfashionweek.org, chinafashionweek.org, vogue.com, firstview. com) from 2010 S/S to 2016 S/S. A total of 317 fashion photos of designs created using the Chinese ink technique by Korean designers at Seoul Fashion Week and Chinese designers at China Fashion Week were analyzed. The contemporary fashions created with the Chinese ink technique were characterized by, first, the bold brush strokes and natural spreading effects of Chinese ink, second, the emphasis of empty space by taking essential elements, and third, the coexistence of deep Chinese ink colors with modern primary colors. The formativeness of the contemporary fashions created with Chinese ink technique based on Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung were as follows: first, temperance, pursuing spiritual and minimal expression, second, empty space, making design elements interact and pursue harmony, third, changeable rhythm, symbolizing the growth and variation revealing the power of life, and fourth, vitality, represented in the rhythmical movement of the brush. This study was based on the oriental esthetics inherent in Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung, and it attempted to analyze contemporary fashion design. The aim was to show the possibility of modern applications to traditional values, and it can be a meaningful case in design planning based on culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.337-347
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to figure out consumer's recognition on brand's peculiar style on Korean contemporary women's apparel brand. The contemporary women's apparel brands show advanced and stylish merchandise at better price points. This segment of the Korean ready-to-wear market has been growing fast in last decades. Four contemporary women's apparel brands(I, K, M, and T) were participated in this study. The data(n=216) were collected with questionnaire survey at 24 apparel retail shops in metro Seoul area. The questionnaire measured the consumers' recognition on each brand's peculiar style. The subjects evaluated each brand's typical silhouette, materials, and style image. The results of the survey showed that the style image factors were 'stylish', 'simple', 'casual', 'feminine', and 'classic'. The style image of each brand was differentiated from others. The brand T had classic image, the brand K had simple and casual image, brand M had stylistic image, and the brand I had feminine image. The features of materials that used at the four brands were not very different by the brands. They used the high valued materials. The common features of the materials were 'smooth', 'thin' and 'light weight.'

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.254-269
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• 2015

The digital technology that has brought about the information revolution acts as the causes of multi-faceted socio-cultural phenomena. The spread of the digital environment and the popularity of the digital devices accelerate the phenomenon or the fusion of culture and technology, and such a phenomenon is no exception in the fashion design. Namely, the combination of fashion design and digital-based technology draws more and more attention; Not only the technology is simply applied to the fashion design, but also it is used as an emotional tool to enhance consumers' satisfaction, while some designs and marketing cases stimulating consumers' emotion are highlighted importantly. This study was aimed at surveying and analyzing the contemporary fashion using the digital technology and thereupon, assessing the characteristics of the emotional representations of technology as well as their aesthetic values. To this end, the theory of 'science of emotion and sensibility' was applied to divide the characteristics of emotional technological expressions in the contemporary fashion into immateriality, non-boundary, multi-media and interaction, while the aesthetic values of the emotional technology immanent in the contemporary fashion were categorized into communication & participation, conceptual configuration, physical expansion and variable movement. This study analyzed uses of technology for human emotion and sensibility shown in not only collections but also communication media and exhibition spaces and thereby, suggested the direction for our fashion industry to fulfill consumers' changing needs and advance further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.70-83
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• 2007

Contemporary fashion design has been made a new attempt to extend restricted expressions through fusion with other genres in art. The recognition of fashion has recently been changed not only product but as a piece of work in specific value, concept and meaning created by fashion designer. It is observed that the contemporary fashion design has a notion to persue formative intentions and manners of Conceptual Art in Post-modern era. This study is to define this region of fashion design represented in cultural phenomena as 'Conceptual Fashion', also analyze the formative feature of this from a point of view in Conceptual art. The results which are analyzed according to outward techniques and forms, meanings and elements immanent in aesthetic contemplation of conceptual fashion lead to four distinctive things in such as anti-form, intervention and appropriation, metaphor and detour, process and series. The intrinsic values in conceptual fashion through aesthetic contemplation are indicated the four significant values in the following: the pluralistic interpretation, the parody and amusement, the pursuit of essence and truth and the participation and interaction. Conceptual fashion design is appeared complex not doing separate through classified formative features previously. And It has been evolved as a indeterminate concept which is able to variable elucidation by a non-player, as a instrument for communication on fashion culture which is aggrandized. The purpose of this study is to present of theoretical foundation about Conceptual fashion design and also to make proper understanding about interrelationship between contemporary fashion and art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.84-96
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• 2013

In researching the ontological status of fashion, a good grasp of fashion can decide the direction of fashion study. Fashion is sometimes considered an area of industry far from art from a point of view of purity of art, in spite of its aesthetic value and expression. However, art properties can be differentiated from the purity of art in modern aesthetics, and fashion properties which were the reason for that fashion to be considered as non-art can be affirmed as the same with properties of contemporary art properties. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to suggest the possibility that general properties of fashion can be accepted in the art arena through justifying art properties deviating from the purity of art. It can provide a boost to fashion's cultural status. For the research method, a literature review and case analysis were carried out through specialty publications related to art history, aesthetics, and fashion, regular publications and websites specializing in fashion, and art museums. Through the research, art properties deviated from the purity of art, which are; tactile sense, impermanence, dailiness, and commercial viability, were justified as being the same as fashion properties. These art properties were not general properties of fine art in modern aesthetics, but the ones occurring in contemporary arts. These properties, now present in contemporary art, can no longer disqualify fashion as a non-art.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.149-162
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to suggest various directions of living hanbok and proposed the living hanbok design that integrated the tradition and the contemporary, as well as the past and present with denim material that represents the youth cultureby while using the motif of Korean Jogakbo. For the research method, the data on living hanbok, denim, and Jogakbo were surveyed to develop and produce a living hanbok design. The development of a living hanbok design emphasized the meaning of longing for an accumulation of good fortune, by using the concept of 'wishing for fortune' including the symbolic images of denim and Jogakbo. The production results of this study are as follows. First, the Jogakbo motif consisted of patterns yearning for harmony, great fortune, longevity, and many children, and the living hanbok design integrated with the denim material symbolized the convergence of the past and present and the harmony of eastern and western cultures. The study could verify that the living hanbok design was recreated in a contemporary sense to be used everyday by expressing contemporary senses in a traditional image. Second, leftover fabric pieces and recycled materials that can be abandoned by the material market were used for denim. This study could also develop the living hanbok design as a sustainable design through upcycling, an important social trend, puting an emphasis on carrying out socio-ethical responsibilities. Third, denim Jogakbo work, which is connected by small pieces of denim material, used to be a difficult and labor intensive handicraft, but it could be proposed as a new high value-added fashion and generate contemporary living hanbok with a new image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.345-363
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• 2024

This study aims to analyze fashion design cases using traditional elements based on the research and analysis of traditional folk cultural paper-cutting crafts in China, and to expand the area of fashion design using traditional elements by developing 3D digital fashion design. For herein, the techniques and characteristics of Chinese paper-cutting crafts were investigated. This survey facilitated an analysis of the formative characteristics of battery crafts in contemporary fashion design. As for the analysis case, the case of using battery crafts expressed in modern fashion for 10 years from 2010 to 2024 S/S was selected. The results are as follows. First, the typical characteristics of Chinese paper cutting technology-relief, micro-carved, combined with relief and micro-carved expressive techniques of engraving art effect-can be explored by analyzing contemporary fashion case collections through the perspective and trend of leading traditional culture. Second, in the traditional paper cutting process, most paper-cutting works are expressed in red, but white and black are mainly used in fashion, in addition to the active use of the five colors. Third, the characteristics of contemporary fashion patterns primarily utilize the paper-cutting process, incorporating elements such as plants, animals, and geometric patterns. Fourth, the utilization of paper cutting in 3D digital design offers time and economic benefits, allowing for quick adjustments to various design developments. In contemporary fashion, it is expected that the use of paper cutting can provide useful creativity and value for the inheritance and modernization of traditional culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.125-137
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• 2003

This study is to explore the Post-modern fashion image appeared in the costumes of the movie $\ulcorner$Matrix2-Reloaded$\lrcorner$, which is believed to adapt successfully the Postmodernism ideas on screen. From this study, we can find that the movie costumes express certain formative characteristics considerably affected by the contemporary fashion trends such as Minimalism, Formalism, Futurism, Ethno-eclecticism, Asexualism. These are mostly common tendencies aroused in the complex and pluralistic circumstances of Postmodernism where many diverse values are equally regarded. Finally, the 5 trends lead to represent the following symbolic meanings with entanglement in multiplex ways, that is Virtual Reality, Mechanic Artificiality, Human Dignity, Mysticism, Multi-Culturism, and Nonsexuality to create a strong unified imagery and style in that Post-modern movie.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.