• Title/Summary/Keyword: Collagen biosynthesis

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The Stabilization of 20.0% Ascorbic Acid in Aqueous Cosmetic Formulation (아스코빅애씨드 고함량 안정화 수계 조성물 제조 방법)

  • Park, Jeong Mi;Eun, So Hee;Ko, Eun Ah;Han, Sang Keun;Kang, Hak Hee;Hyun, Seung Min
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.44 no.2
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    • pp.125-131
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    • 2018
  • Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) has been widely used in skin care formulations. Due to its remarkable effects on anti-oxidation, collagen biosynthesis and whitening, ascorbic acid is considered as an effectible anti-aging active ingredient. But, the instability problems of ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulation such as oxidation, browning and changes in smell is the difficult issue to be overcome for the application of high concentration of ascorbic acid. We tried to stabilize the ascorbic acid in non-aqueous liquid formulation that contains polyol solvent at first. The non-aqueous system was effectible to reduce oxidation. But, ascorbic acid was crystallized in the non-aqueous formulation at the low temperature below $5^{\circ}C$. We tried to develop way to stabilize the ascorbic acid in aqueous solutions to solve the crystallizing problem. In this study, we search the optimal ratio of antioxidant combination, such as zinc sulfate, glutathione and curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract. Formulations were stored at - $16^{\circ}C$, $5^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, $50^{\circ}C$ and cycle($5-40^{\circ}C$) (in incubator) for a period of eight weeks to investigate their stability. In the stability analysis, the test parameters consisted of color, scent, phase separation and sedimentation. Ascorbic acid stability was checked by HPLC analysis.

Antioxidant and Anti-wrinkling Effects of Aruncus dioicus var. kamtschaticus extract (눈개승마 추출물의 항산화 및 주름개선 효과)

  • Youn, Jin-Suk;Shin, Seung-Yong;Wu, Yongxiang;Hwang, Ju-Young;Cho, Jae-Ho;Ha, Yong-Geun;Kim, Jin-Ki;Park, Min-Jeong;Lee, Seon-Ho;Kim, Tae-Hoon;Kim, Tae-Wan
    • Food Science and Preservation
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.393-399
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    • 2012
  • In this study, the antioxidant and anti-wrinkling effects of extracts from Aruncus diocius var. kamtschaticus (ADV) were investigated. According to the results, the ethanol extract has better antioxidant and anti-wrinkling effects than the water extract. The amounts of total polyphenol and flavonoid compounds in the ethanol extract were 122 and 36 mg/g, respectively, while those in the water extract were 87 and 26 mg/g. The antioxidant activities of the ethanol and water extracts were 395 and 4,682 ${\mu}g/mL$ as the $RC_{50}$ values for the DPPH radical scavenging activity, and 227 and 366 ${\mu}g/mL$ for the $ABTS^+$ radical scavenging activity, respectively. The reducing power of the ethanol extract (1.58 at 2 mg/mL) was higher than that of the water extract (0.88 at 2 mg/mL). The astringent activities of the ethanol and water extracts were 91.27 and 16.35% at 10 mg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, the ADV ethanol extract treatment of the fibroblast cell after UV irradiation resulted in increased cell viability (10% at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$) and collagen biosynthesis (33% at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$), with a lowering in the MMP-1 expression level (16.8 % at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$). These results demonstrate that AVD provides a remarkable and significant tensor and anti-wrinkling effect on the skin, which could be of a great use in anti-aging skin care products.