Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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The Stabilization of 20.0% Ascorbic Acid in Aqueous Cosmetic Formulation

아스코빅애씨드 고함량 안정화 수계 조성물 제조 방법

  • Received : 2018.03.15
  • Accepted : 2018.06.08
  • Published : 2018.06.30
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Abstract

Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) has been widely used in skin care formulations. Due to its remarkable effects on anti-oxidation, collagen biosynthesis and whitening, ascorbic acid is considered as an effectible anti-aging active ingredient. But, the instability problems of ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulation such as oxidation, browning and changes in smell is the difficult issue to be overcome for the application of high concentration of ascorbic acid. We tried to stabilize the ascorbic acid in non-aqueous liquid formulation that contains polyol solvent at first. The non-aqueous system was effectible to reduce oxidation. But, ascorbic acid was crystallized in the non-aqueous formulation at the low temperature below $5^{\circ}C$. We tried to develop way to stabilize the ascorbic acid in aqueous solutions to solve the crystallizing problem. In this study, we search the optimal ratio of antioxidant combination, such as zinc sulfate, glutathione and curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract. Formulations were stored at - $16^{\circ}C$, $5^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, $50^{\circ}C$ and cycle($5-40^{\circ}C$) (in incubator) for a period of eight weeks to investigate their stability. In the stability analysis, the test parameters consisted of color, scent, phase separation and sedimentation. Ascorbic acid stability was checked by HPLC analysis.

아스코빅애씨드(비타민 C)는 스킨 케어 조성물에 널리 사용되어 왔다. 아스코빅애씨드는 항산화, 콜라겐 생합성 촉진, 피부미백효과 등 특별한 효과를 나타내며, 안티-에이징 활성성분으로 사용되고 있다. 하지만, 화장료 조성물에서는 아스코빅애씨드의 산화, 갈변, 변취와 같은 불안정한 문제가 있어 높은 함량을 적용하기에는 문제가 많다. 우리는 폴리올을 사용하여 아스코빅애씨드를 녹인 무수제형 조성물로 안정화를 진행했다. 무수제형은 아스코빅애씨드의 산화를 효과적으로 억제할 수 있는 조성물이다. 하지만, $5^{\circ}C$ 이하의 온도 조건일 때 무수제형 내에서 결정화가 일어나는 문제점이 있다. 우리는 수계에 아스코빅애씨드를 안정화하여 결정화 문제를 해결하고자 하였다. 본 연구에서는, 징크설페이트, 글루타치온, 강황뿌리추출물과 같은 항산화제를 사용하여 아스코빅애씨드를 안정화할 수 있는 최적의 비율을 찾고자 하였다. 조성물은 - $16^{\circ}C$, $5^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, $50^{\circ}C$ and cycle($5-40^{\circ}C$) 인큐베이터를 사용하여 8주에 걸쳐 안정도를 확인하였다. 안정성 분석은 색상, 향, 상 분리, 침강 정도를 검토하였다. 아스코빅애씨드의 안정성은 HPLC 분석을 통하여 확인하였다.

Keywords

References

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