• 복식
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.162-175
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• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.32-51
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• 2016

KakaoTalk has become a reputed mobile social network and an inseparable part of people's lives by leading the mobile industry in South Korea. However, there is a lack of studies in academia regarding perception of the consumers and assessment toward the mobile marketing and services by KakaoTalk. Based on the theoretical orientation of Elaboration Likelihood Model (ELM: Petty & Cacioppo, 1986) and electronic service quality (E-S-QUAL: Parasuraman, Zeithaml, & Malhotra, 2005), this study investigates the effects of information sources (Charles & Richard, 1988), and examines the consumer perception toward the service quality of KakaoTalk. A total of 209 responses were collected, using a self-administered survey in Seoul and Gyeonggi province, South Korea from March 2015 to June 2015. A seven-point Likert scale survey was developed to measure the information sources (i.e., argument quality, post popularity, and post attractiveness), electronic service quality (i.e., efficiency, fulfillment, privacy, and system availability), attitude (i.e., usefulness, preference, and overall attitude), and behavioral intention (i.e., like intention, share intention, and purchase intention). This study reveals a consensus that an online environment is different from the traditional retail context in terms of information source and service quality. Specifically, the results indicate that argument quality greatly impacts the attitudes of the individuals and their behavioral intention toward mobile shopping via social media channel. The most powerful factor among E-S-QUAL is "efficiency." This dimension of service quality influences the customer perception of usefulness and preference as well as share and like intention toward mobile shopping on KakaoTalk.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.101-111
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate using and evaluative criteria for purchasing of sleepwear in winter. Subjects were 523 males and females aged from twenties to fifties, living in Chongju and Taejon. For data analysis, frequency, descriptive analysis, t-test, and F-test were used. The results are as follows. First, the ownership of sleepwear was sweat suits with zippered top, pajamas, T-shirts/pants, underwear, and nightgown in order. The mean of using sweat suits was used the highest, and subjects used more home wear than sleepwear in winter. Second, the using or sleepwear had a significant difference in cold-sensitiveness and body types. Cold-sensitive group used sweat suit and T-shirts/pants more than cold-insensitive group. Also, groups who are thin wore sweat suit the most while groups who are corpulent, used underwear the most when they slept. Third, subjects, who are married women and use bed, used nightgown, but pajamas were used by groups who are older, married, and professional. Sweat suits and T-shirts/pants were used the most by single aged twenties. Forth, consumers considered the wearing comfort when they purchased sleepwear for winter, and they evaluated washing/management, fabric, design/style, economic, service, brand, and others' response in order, for judging the quality of sleepwear. Also, the evaluative criteria had a significant difference in demographic variables such as sex, occupation, and marital state. These results implied that sleepwear would be needed for winter in terms of behavioral temperature regulation. Especially, cold-sensitive and thin group would wear knitted and two-piece sleepwear for thermal comfort when they sleep in winter. Also, Using and evaluative criteria of sleepwear would be different in demographic characteristics. For winter, sleepwear should be develop based on physiologic as well as demographic variables.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.559-570
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• 2003

The focus of this research was concerned with studying lower body type for Korean adult males. To understand the features of men's lower body required to organize an optimal sizing system for men's tight-fit slacks, information from the measuring values based on research on the physical standard of the nation(l997) were summarized; in addition, a factor analysis and a cluster analysis among multivariate analyses were performed. In terms of the need for appropriate fit in motorcycle wear, basic lower body parts applying to each item had to be taken into consideration to enhance sizing suitability. In the case of the length of the lower limbs, the inclusion of protectors plays an important role in affecting sizing. The factors related to the lower body were defined as follows: Factor 1 was the vertical dimension of the lower body, Factor 2 was the horizontal dimension of waist and hip, Factor 3 was the horizontal dimension of the lower limbs, Factor 4 was the length of hips, and Factor 5 was the ankle height. The lower body part was also divided into 3 clusters. Cluster 1 referred to the smallest stature and skeleton structure among the 3 body types. Cluster 2 represented the biggest stature, with a thin lower limbs body type. Cluster 3 represented a medium stature but with a large skeleton structure of lower limbs, a muscular type. In conclusion, Cluster 2 appeared most in the 20s age groups, but Cluster 3 appeared most in each of the 30s, 40's, and 50's age groups.

• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.70-82
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the trends and features of male fashion and hair style image and thereby, determine the relationship between fashion and hair styles, and thus, provide for some basic data for future studies about male hair styles as well as for new male hair style trends. For this purpose, relevant literature was extensively reviewed including some visual materials. The major references for this study were domestic and foreign books, journals and preceding studies about fashion and hair. The visual materials referred to for this study were domestic magazines specialized in fashion and hair, visual data supplied by hair product brands, Korea Beauty Parlor Journal, Beauty and Cosmetic Newspaper, Beauty Today, and such fashion special websites as $S{\cdot}F{\cdot}I,\;C{\cdot}F{\cdot}T$, firstview.com, fashionwide.com, etc. Based on the results from a questionnaire survey of master or Ph degree holders of apparel science, reputed designer were sampled and then, 80 works were finally sampled from their collections published between January, 2002 and April, 2005. As a result of analyzing the images shown in modern male apparel and hair style fashions by classifying them into natural, restored, folklore and eclectic ones, it was confirmed that both male apparels and hair styles have been reinterpreted in modern terms depending on social and cultural settings to be expressed as new styles, and in particular, that male hair styles have evolved diversely into new styles depending on fashion tendencies, while having been versatile in some relationships with their fashion tendencies.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제3권
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• pp.51-87
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• 2003

This study aims primarily to discuss the question 'What does the red fashion boom in Korean society during the 2002 World Cup mean\ulcorner' For this question, it describes fashion phenomena and characteristics that appeared during the time. Specifically, in order to understand the concrete essence of the red fashion boom in terms of clothing and textiles, this study classifies and describes the red fashion boom as 'object, process and symbol' concepts. It investigates each case within the context of fashion. Outside that context, then, the implications of the red fashion boom are examined based on cultural studies and other sociocultural perspectives. This question is considered by focusing on social pressures as ideology, looking at the voluntary behaviour of Korean people in this context and examining several other factors. This is an investigation of the relationship between fashion, society and culture pursuing fashion theory by reviewing the relevant theoretical backgrounds afforded by the humanities and the social sciences. Based upon the above theoretical discussions, it synthesises what factors contributed to the Korean red fashion boom. Finally, this study briefly states their applicability to cultural marketing in its practical aspects. This study has attempted to throw some light on the question 'What does the red fashion boom in Korean society during the 2002 World Cup mean\ulcorner' The Korean Red Fashion Boom emerged from its interrelation with each context of the World Cup, as in the dualism of 'Janus'. That is, the World Cup functioned as the positive face of a festival that collected deep emotions and passion and contributed to the integration of society. Whereas its negative face, ideologically speaking, personified the invisible capitalistic product produced by the nation, enterprises and the mass media. And the implications of the red fashion boom can be interpreted with reference to the two faced World Cup.

• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.97-113
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• 2014

The study aims to determine the significance and characteristics of self-similarity inherent in natural objects or phenomena, the existence of self-similarity in design created by fashion designers, and the traits and internal significance implied in self-similarity and their effects on fashion. The subject of the study is Viktor & Rolf, and the scope of the study is the collections created from 2001 to 2014, which include designs implemented in their early years and those unveiled in the media. Self-similarity means attributes of a fractal structure appearing without change in the original form, even after modification of scale or direction in terms of shape or phenomena. As self-similarity is applied to the arts and design sectors, it leads people to pay attention to fundamental characteristics and intrinsic forms as a factor of expressing a unique creative world. Analysis of Viktor & Rolf collections generated ribbons, overlapping/juxtaposition, side decorations and exaggerated design elements as basic units of self-similarity. These factors had self-similarity rates as high as 84%. Self-similarity was established as design elements formed in the incipient stage were repeated in a certain form, and continued for a long period of time. It served as an element that recognizes design and a fashion designer at the same time. Characteristics of self-similarity appearing in Viktor & Rolf collections can be summarized as homeostasis based on an equivalent relationship, balance based on self-organization, reducibility into essential elements, and uniqueness based on odd shapes. These characteristics influenced the pursuit of consistent brand image, the maintenance of a fashion designer's creative world, the formation of styles and the expression of a fashion designer's identity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.30-46
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• 2018

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.778-792
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify women (aged from 49~59), who have recently emerged as consumers, and their clothing preferences, and it suggests how to make jackets provide better fit and wearability. The results of the study are as follows. In drafting a pattern for size 66 tailored collar jacket with an X-silhouette, it was made with front waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, a back length of B/4+1.3 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 34.5 cm, to allow for easy movement. In drafting a size 66 high neck collar jacket, it was made with a front and back waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 35 cm. In drafting a size 66 sports collar jacket with an A-silhouette, it was made with front and back waist lengths measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, and a side dart of 1.3 cm, to provide raglan sleeves. The last experimental jacket pattern improved the appearance and moving fitness evaluation especially for shoulder and arm movement. Based on analysis, jackets were made and subjected to an appearance evaluation using multi-modules to test the level of wearing satisfaction for each fabric and silhouette. the results of the multi-module wearing tests indicate that the preferred silhouettes caused less stressful situations in terms of both psychological and physiological signals.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.66-80
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• 2013

Nomadism means 'divide share' and 'drift where allocated'. The word to express a variety of modern people without being tied to a fixed time and place, constantly moving to new areas and explore the possibility. The progress of this study, first, to research on the conceptual study of Nomadism through Deleuze's theory of art and to organize Nomadism patterns and design paradigms in modern society. Second is to analyze and investigate cases of Nomadism based on the theoretical background in a way to reinterpret to the contemporary fashion, and to suggest the formative characteristics and inherent expressiveness of Nomadism expressed in modern fashion. Theoretical considerations made through the collection data were select from ready-to-wear women's collections 2005 S/S~2013 S/S presented in 'Style.com'. The results of the analysis of the formative characteristics of Nomadism in the $21^{st}$ century fashion are 'mixed expressions of time space and gender', 'pursuit of diversity through self-dismantling', 'clothing systemization of mobile and deformable' and 'temporary amusement, lightness, an expression of the ride rules'. The inherent expressiveness of Nomadism through these types of figurative representation are 'unbounded fashion', 'multi-center, multi-functional' and 'emotional directivity'. As such, philosophy and artistic trends started Nomadism is harmoniously expressed in terms of the design transcending the boundaries of existing stereotypes.