• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.5
• /
• pp.115-134
• /
• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.551-565
• /
• 2012

The primary goal of this study was to provide a systematic methodology of utilizing 3D technology for tight-fit performance sportswear using information of skin deformation in various posture. Technical tools used in this study are Cyberware whole body scanner, RapidForm2004, 2C-AN 3D pattern development program, and YukaCAD. Analysis of the 3D skin deformation while knee joint was bent from $0^{\circ}$ to $60^{\circ}$ revealed that the length of dermatomes L4 was remained consistent during knee bending. Therefore, L4 was chosen as a major cutting line. To develop a highly ergonomic pattern, replicas of static and dynamic postures were developed and integrated using two methods, one is morphing method (Sqirlz Morph), and the other is AutoCAD. Experimental tight-fit garments called 'Derm-Mov Pattern' was designed using dematomes L4, L2, and inner line under knee and compared with four other patterns. As results, AutoCAD was appropriate as a integrating method of various postures. In wear test, 'Derm-Mov Pattern' was rated high (p < .001), in terms of pressure comfort especially around front crotch area. However, wear sensation was not signipicantly different in other area due to highly extensible property of materials. Pressure distribution was relatively even in these experimental garments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.532-543
• /
• 2012

This research is aimed at analyzing the image and preference of the school uniform of a girls' high school located in Ulsan. The analysis of 396 data were measured by the frequency, the t-test through SPSS 12.0. The results show that first, in the image, they associated a cold color, short v zone, necktie with mannish image, a coordination between boxy jacket and flared skirt or silhouette mixture of mannish image and feminie image with unfashionable. Second, sensibility images that they prefers differed significantly in mature, soft, and practical images between different academic spheres, and in terms of refined image between different grades. Third, in preference of school uniform wearing, photo 9 showed the significance by groups and photo 6 showed it by grade. As a result of uniform design preference analysis, significant differences were by academic shown on photo 2 in total harmony and color combination, on photo 3 in details, on photo 7 in lower garment design, on photo 8 in upper garment design, on photo 9 in total harmony, upper garment design, lower garment design, color combination and details. Meanwhile, photo 1 showed the significance by grade in color combination, photo 4 in total harmony and upper garment design, photo 7 in upper garment design, respectively. Through this study, we could assume schoolgirls' attitude toward school uniform currently worn by them and it is considered to be used for resolving diverse problems which have been raised when school uniform design is being planned to satisfy students' desires.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.24 no.5
• /
• pp.158-176
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study was to examine the cultural diversity in terms of costumes by analyzing the costumes depicted in the early Kushan Dynasty relics, Tillya Tepe. As a research method, literature research and artifact analysis were conducted in parallel. The type of costume worn by the king (or priest) was in the type of a jacket and skirt, which was thought to be of Persian influence. The Greek god of Dionysos was wearing a costume with Danryong (團領) and narrow sleeves, a nomadic type of Central Asia. It could be seen that costumes were transformed into indigenous elements of the region. The shape of the helmet worn by the warrior was a Greek-Macedonian helmet. However, details were transformed into indigenous elements of the Kushan dynasty. The clothing of a nobleman riding a carriage was an element of dress that was observed in Chinese po(袍), and was an unusual element not found in nomadic peoples. There were goddesses wearing Greek robes like Aphrodite in Tillya Tepe's relics. On the other hand, there were goddesses who did not wear Greek chitons like the Greek goddess Athena. Instead, they wore high-waisted robes worn by the Orient goddesses. In addition, after Kushan occupied India, there were Indian elements believed to be expressed by accepting Indian culture. These elements were combined with regional orient elements of the Kushan dynasty, Central Asian elements, and Kushan's own elements. Thus cultural diversity emerged in the costumes depicted in Tillya Tepe artifacts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.569-580
• /
• 2015

The recent fashion market failed to satisfy the needs of female customers in their 30s who are demanding a slim jacket that makes the wearer look young and slim. Accordingly, the slim-fit jackets of domestic brands targeting the women in their 30s were collected to conduct look and movement fitting evaluations based on the standard somatotype, and a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype was developed based on the present findings. This research aims to increase the satisfaction level of the slim-fit jacket customers reflecting a variety of somatotypes of women in their 30s. The research process was developing jacket patterns fully reflecting the properties in terms of extra space and design lines for different somatotypes of women in their 30s based on the jacket pattern formulated through the advanced research, and then suggesting pattern design methods for the different somatotypes. In this sense, this research attempted to identify the problems concerning the slim-fit tailored jacket fitting for different somatotypes of women in their 30s. The main aim was to suggest ways to improve the customers' satisfaction level regarding the fit, and enable the manufacturers to produce a well-fitting jacket reflecting the peculiarities of each somatotype.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.24 no.5
• /
• pp.670-686
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delineate and analyze the expression of the kidult and its characteristics and thereby provide data to be used for fashion design in various manners as well as to suggest creative and varied possibilities of fashion design. As a way to study, the author of this paper organized the general terms, concepts and definitions concerning the kidult in the previous papers and journals. The data was collected from the collections represent the characteristics of kidult especially from 2006 to 2015. The results are as follows: Firstly, The characters stimulating the innocence of children were used the most for infantile expression. Parody used characters in the movie or famous logos. Deformation was used to create designs by way of distortion and deformation. Exaggeration thereby showing visually strong impression and inducing surprise and unexpectedness. Depaysement was useful to let us describe concepts and enhance our infinite creativity and interests about objects using surrealistic. Secondly, Infantile characteristics used the images of toys with infantile imagination and sense of humor. Fantasy introduced objects or expressed a dream-like feeling. Unexpectedness used two-faced ideas or conflicting ideas to express conflicts, collision and an interchange with heterogeneous things, avoiding the limit of size and the simplicity of materials. Parody used jocular expressions, satire and ironic expressions to express the original image in a fun manner. Exaggeration transformed changed the structure to restructure objects in a subjective and creative manner, thereby expressing creative patterns using various subject matters by way of special modeling or distortion and transformation.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.45 no.10
• /
• pp.73-81
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to increase the ultraviolet-light (UV)-cut ability of cellulose fabrics (cotton, ramie, and rayon) dyed with safflower yellow colorants. For this purpose, samples treated with UV-cut agent and tannic-acid were compared with the untreated samples after UV exposure in terms of K/S value, color changes(${\Delta}E$), SEM, and strength retention. The K/S value rapidly decreased after 28 days exposure, whereas the K/S value of the samples treated with both UV-cut agent and tannic-acid decreased to less than that of the untreated samples. In color changes, $L^*$ increased while $a^*$ and $b^*$ decreased, indicating less red and yellow character in color. This induced a change in the hue, value and chroma values. However the color change(${\Delta}E$) of the samples treated with both UV-cut agent and tannic-acid was less than that of the untreated samples. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) pictures showed a severe degradation by exposure in all samples. Tensile strength rapidly decreased after 28 days for cotton and rayon, and after 21 days for ramie. However, the strength retention of the samples treated with UV-cut agent and tannic-acid was higher than that of the untreated samples.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study was to examine the influence of elderly women's makeup behavior, psychological traits and demographic variables on their preference for makeup images in daily life(hereinafter called general makeup image) and for the makeup images of their own future funeral portraits. As for the method of research, a research study was implemented by using the questionnaire method. Seven factors were selected for makeup behavior: fashionability, conformity, subjectivity, instrumentality, interpersonal orientation and conspicuousness. The selected psychological traits were personality, death attitude and depression. Preference for general makeup image and for the makeup image of funeral portrait were investigated in terms of four: agreeableness, refinement, individuality and dignity. The subjects in this study were 651 female elderly residents in and around Seoul who were in their 60s to 80s. Concerning data analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach alpha coefficient, Pearson productmoment correlation coefficient, t-test, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test and multiple regression analysis were utilized. Concerning the influence of the elderly women's makeup behavior, personality, death attitude, depression and demographic variables on preference for the makeup image of funeral portrait, their preference for an agreeable makeup image was analyzed. Thus, makeup behavior, personality, death attitude and depression were identified as the variables to exert a significant influence on preference for the makeup images of funeral portrait. The findings of the study are expected to help make makeup for funeral portrait entrenched as a part of the beauty industry and to make a contribution to the development of the beauty industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.3
• /
• pp.32-50
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to reveal the process of enactment and revision, the contents of the police uniform system by the Government-General of Joseon, and to examine the relationship between the uniform system and the ruling policies of Imperialist Japan. The research methodology involved document research of official gazettes that published legislation on the police uniform system. Political background was referenced from various preceding studies. The research results are as follows. The Japanese invasion of Korea, in regards to the police, appeared as infiltrations through the three routes of consular police, temporary military police, and inside the Korean police. Each organization had different uniform systems, and after the installation of the Japanese police in 1907, the uniform system of high level officers of the Korea police was changed to the Japanese-style. After the installation of the Government-General of Joseon in 1910, a police uniform system was not enacted until 1918, with the exception being made for police officers due to the military police system. The 'Police Officer Uniform System of the Government-General of Joseon' enacted in 1918 stood out for its golden insignia on solidly colored fabric, which effectively indicated rank, as well as the Japanese flag pattern and the cherry blossom pattern, which symbolized imperialist Japan, on the cap badge and insignia. The 1918 uniform system had many differences from the Japanese system of the time in terms of design, perhaps due to the political autonomy of the governor-general. The 1918 uniform system was completely revised in 1932. This uniform system was modified in various ways. The system was almost identical to the Japanese system at that time. This is the result of Japan's intent to dominate Korea, which involved assimilating Korea into Japan with the purpose of conducting a full-fledged invasion of the continent after the Manchurian Incident.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.1
• /
• pp.69-83
• /
• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.