• Title/Summary/Keyword: Clothing material

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The Hanbok in the Korean Movies from 1950's to 1980's (1950년대에서 1980년대의 영화에 나타난 한복)

  • Soh, Hwang Oak;Kim, Yu Seung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.2
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    • pp.126-134
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    • 2014
  • This study studied female Hanbok that appeared in Korean movies in different periods, and investigated the changes and flow of the Hanbok in the movies based on the design and the form. Research scope is limited to Hanbok in Korean movies released between 1950' and 1980', and in order to study Hanbok in movies, snapshots of Korean movies for each period are used. Pictures are sourced from the Korean movie database, and forms and colors of Hanbok in the pictures are classified into 7 categories. Based on this, characteristics, changes and flow of Hanbok for each period are studied. Based on this, by investigating the Hanbok in Korean movies from silhouette and design perspectives and comparing each period, it is found that the following changes have been made: From 1950' to 1980', generally Min Jeogori (Normal Korean traditional jacket) had a higher rate. Up to early 1960', wide collar and collar strip were trends, but from 70' to 80', they have been remarkably narrowed. After liberation, ease and functional elements of western clothing were accepted. From 1950' to 80', generally wide and round shape sleeve were used. Also, from 50' to 80', normally skirt and Jeogori had the same color and fabric. Lastly. as Hanbok with western style fabric, rather than traditional Hanbok fabric was increasing, Hanbok with variously patterned fabric was shown. The lack of colored pictures led of limited research materials, and so a more accurate and sophisticated research on material and design was not possible, However, it is meaningful that this study has investigated changes and flow of Hanbok in modern Korean movies.

Development of a Down-alternative Outdoor Jacket design (다운대체 아웃도어 재킷의 디자인 개발)

  • Lee, Dal A;Moon, SunJeong;Chung, Sham Ho
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.8
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    • pp.143-155
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    • 2013
  • The outdoor apparel market has been growing very fast recently, and consumers are spending more time doing outdoor activities for their leisure. As the outdoor apparel market is growing, it has started to combine functionality with style to provide more diverse designs and colors for all ages. The increase of interest in heathy life-styles, outdoor activities, and leisure has lead to a rise in demand for outdoor apparel. Now outdoor apparel have become a part of people's daily casual wear in addition to being worn for outdoor activities. This study is focused on a outdoor jacket design which is used as down-alternative material and the purpose of this study is to design outdoor jackets using a down-alternative fabrics that improve the thermal and lightweight effects for clothing comfort, and increase the satisfaction of wearing down-alterative outdoor jacket. The research of this paper was done by using a questionnaire survey. The survey was used to examine the male customers' outdoor activities, purchase behaviors, place, expense and design preferences. Then, down-like fabric was used to make the prototype down jacket and its design, function, and satisfaction with wearing compared with other brands down jacket products were analyzed. Although duck down fabrics are representative of outdoor jackets, they have many problems that need to be solved such as feathers falling out or its vulnerability to moisture. They have competitive prices compared to down jackets so down-alternative jackets are able to gain more proportion of its market share.

A case study on the costume making process of stop motion animation characters (스톱모션 애니메이션 캐릭터 의상제작과정에 관한 사례 연구)

  • Kim, Ki Hoon;Suh, Ji Sung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.20 no.5
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    • pp.655-663
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    • 2012
  • Due to increased interest in character costumes, the field of animation character costume design is gradually developing into a specialized domain. The costume-making process for animation characters presents many differences from the costume-making process for regular apparel. However, there remains insufficient research on the actual process of making the character costumes used in stop motion videos both in Korea and abroad. The purpose of this study is to establish a costume design process for animation characters. Furthermore, this study presents a case study on the costume planning and making process for 3D stop motion animation characters. The character costume-making process was segmentalized into the following stages: character analysis stage, character modeling stage, and character costume making stage. In the character analysis stage, the investigator analyzed the character's movements, designed the character images, and analyzed the movements and motions of the animation characters. After completing character modeling, this study proposed a method for making the character costume. The style of the character costume was designed, and the structural design reflected the position and size of joints as well as the angle of movements. The patterns of the character costume were produced through dimensional tailoring after measuring the body size of the character. Afterward, the costume was completed after passing through the fitting and revision stages. The clothing material was selected to fit the colors and feelings shown in the illustration. To complete the costume after comparing it with the initial illustration, it was revised based on the assessment of its volume and overall atmosphere.

Scarf designs reflecting the design preferences of new senior women (뉴 시니어 여성의 디자인 선호도를 반영한 스카프 디자인)

  • Kim, Eun Hye;Kwon, Young Suk
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.661-672
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    • 2015
  • In this study, nine scarf designs expected to be effective for accent design for the fashion style of new senior women were suggested by reflecting purchase behavior and scarf preference after conducting surveys and an analysis by targeting 136 new senior women in order to propose scarf design-matching with the preferences of new seniors. As a result of the study on the scarf purchase features of new seniors, it was revealed that the purchase time for scarves was mainly autumn and winter, even though it is regardless of season, and in spring and summer, they seldom purchased scarves. The purchase frequency was four times a year, and what they first thought of at the time of purchase was represented in the order of color, design, and the material of the scarf. They most preferred department stores, mixed and achromatic colors, cotton and silk fabrics, natural and geometric patterns, and long scarves of a rectangular shape. In the case of the consumer attributes of scarves, it was revealed that $50^{th}$ desired more individuality-oriented, unique scarf designs than $60^{th}$, and $60^{th}$ desired scarf designs with convenient management considering others' attention compared with $50^{th}$. As concepts for scarf designs, the aspects of individuality, co-existence, and maturity were extracted by reflecting the features of new senior women, and a total of nine scarf designs were suggested by developing three sub-designs for each concept.

Design and SAR Analysis of Wearable Antenna on Various Parts of Human Body, Using Conventional and Artificial Ground Planes

  • Ali, Usman;Ullah, Sadiq;Khan, Jalal;Shafi, Muhammad;Kamal, Babar;Basir, Abdul;Flint, James A;Seager, Rob D.
    • Journal of Electrical Engineering and Technology
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.317-328
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    • 2017
  • This paper presents design and specific absorption rate analysis of a 2.4 GHz wearable patch antenna on a conventional and electromagnetic bandgap (EBG) ground planes, under normal and bent conditions. Wearable materials are used in the design of the antenna and EBG surfaces. A woven fabric (Zelt) is used as a conductive material and a 3 mm thicker Wash Cotton is used as a substrate. The dielectric constant and tangent loss of the substrate are 1.51 and 0.02 respectively. The volume of the proposed antenna is $113{\times}96.4{\times}3mm^3$. The metamaterial surface is used as a high impedance surface which shields the body from the hazards of electromagnetic radiations to reduce the Specific Absorption Rate (SAR). For on-body analysis a three layer model (containing skin, fats and muscles) of human arm is used. Antenna employing the EBG ground plane gives safe value of SAR (i.e. 1.77W/kg<2W/kg), when worn on human arm. This value is obtained using the safe limit of 2 W/kg, averaged over 10g of tissue, specified by the International Commission of Non Ionization Radiation Protection (ICNIRP). The SAR is reduced by 83.82 % as compare to the conventional antenna (8.16 W/kg>2W/kg). The efficiency of the EBG based antenna is improved from 52 to 74 %, relative to the conventional counterpart. The proposed antenna can be used in wearable electronics and smart clothing.

Development of Umbrella Design Utilizing K-pop Star Image - Focused on Bangtan Boys - (K-pop 스타 이미지를 활용한 우산 디자인 개발 - 방탄소년단을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Kyung-Soon;Choi, Yoon-Mi
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.19 no.6
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    • pp.671-680
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    • 2017
  • Contemporary people can form a broad social sympathy on cultural products based on the present Korean image. K-pop is good material to use to share korean culture, and fans who are enthusiastic here are increasingly demanding cultural products. The visual materials of Bangtan Boys are collected from their album covers, and a concept book, and divided into specific and symbolic images. Based on this motif, three specific images: 'bulletproof vest', 'army house + superhero extract image', and 'Wings symbol', six designs were proposed. In addition, six motifs from the music videos for recent popular songs, 'Spring Day', 'Blood, Sweat and Tears' and 'Burning Up' were selected as symbolic images. Each selected image is divided into a normal line and a special line. The former is a relatively small, stable, and popular style, and the latter is a large, original, and bold style. By drawing and transforming extracted images and motifs using Adobe Illustrator CS6 and Adobe Photoshop CS6 program, a full-width umbrella design was developed. The messages that the Bangtan Boys wants to convey through their music are put into cultural products that contemporaries can sympathize with. By developing umbrellas, a variety of items and design goods can become desirable points of consumption as high-value products by domestic and foreign fandom. If designs that incorporate various elements of future K-pop contents as well as other Korean Wave contents are developed, it will be possible to develop original design products that will form global understanding.

A Study on the Construction of Court Dress Coat in the Daehan Empire (대한제국기 서구식 문관 대례복 상의의 제작에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Kyung-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.6
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    • pp.17-31
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this study is to perform historical reconstruction of the court dress coat in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the artifacts. Following steps were undertaken in the study : literature research of the laws of the era, drawing of the design, embroidering gold work, and tailoring of the coat. Embroidering and tailoring experts were consulted to complete an accurate reconstruction of the dress court. The results of this study are as follows. First, Juimgwan's coat, which was the Court Costume Rule in 1905 was selected as an experimental coat. It was revision of the Court Costume Rule in 1900. The process of selection was based on the amount and easiness of embroidery. Second, the design of the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar is reflected the pattern of the preceding research, which was analyzed from the laws, the drawing document[Gwanbokjandoan], and artifacts. Third, the gold work embroidery in the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar was done. The embroidery material were composed of gold threads, such as rough purl, smooth purl, check purl, pearl purl, rococo, and spangle. Couching was used as an embroidery method. The coat was tailored after embroidering. The coat and the buttons were made after analyzing the artifacts. The result of this study can be utilized in the field of historical reconstruction of artifacts in the museum, the designing of stage costume in the performances of reenactment events, drama, and movie of Daehan Empire. Furthermore, this study is anticipated to contribute to the fundamental research of culture contents.

A Study on the Measurement of the Breast Shape on Living Body by Using a PMP Moire Method (가슴형상 측정을 위한 PMP Moire 방법 활용)

  • Lee, Ga-Na;Yuk, Keun-Cheol;Kim, Byeong-Mee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.11 no.2
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    • pp.11-21
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    • 2009
  • Recently, as custom-made demand about female underwear is increased, securing of a various dimension system is urgent, and satisfaction of each customer cannot be heightened with established dimensions. If we could measure shape of a living body with a fast and simple method, the custom-made demand of customers could be satisfied in the underwear as well as a clothing industry by using the method. One of the alternatives is shape measurement of the living body by a Moire fringe method. If we put a grating in front of an object to be measured and illuminate light, a Moire fringe with contour line shape is generated in the object, so we can conveniently measure object shape without touching directly by using the pattern. The Moire fringe and three-dimensional shape of the breast of the living body was acquired by a PMP method using a polygon mirror, and height and bottom width of the breast of the living body were measured by using obtained data in this study. Data of breast shape measurement through a mannequin was collected in a previous step as basic material for measuring the breast shape measurement of the living body. Three women in the twenties were selected as one of methods for measuring breast shape of a woman. As a result of the breast shape measurement of a living body A, it was measured that height of the breast was about 67.24mm and the bottom width was $13781.60mm^2$. This study is expected to contribute for collecting basic data of a female underwear industry and establishing a specification of a dimension system.

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A Study on the Fashion Item of the Symbolic Fashion Icons in the 20th Century (20세기 상징적 패션 아이콘에 따른 아이템 연구)

  • Lee, Eun-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.89-101
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion item of the symbolic fashion icons in the 20th century. The symbolism of fashion icons was grouped into four classes according to the influence of a social-cultural change. 1. Icons between dream and reality: A dreary emotion that was caused by material richness has a longing for an ideal image. A typical style was Art Nouveau style, which pressed into a grotesque S-bend. While as the world placed on a economic reconstruction after World War I, rational fashion icon which pursued more function and simplify than cumbersome style and complexity came out. 2. Icons between solid and liquid: A solid icons was connected with a mode of female body during World War 1. This extremely stylized female figure. Flowing fabrics enveloped the stylized female figure and they brought a liquid icons into relief. 3. Icons between uniformity and variety: At a time when uniformity was appeared strongly within 20th century is during World War II and about 1940-1950. The uniformal icon was classified into uniformity by uniform and by mass production. A repugnance for the uniformity and imitation of fashion was tried a new fashion style. It could be called with the various of fashion icon. 4. Icons between social secession and rediscovery: In 1950-1960, 1970-1990, and the end of 20th century, the advent of the young culture was born a consumer who newly breaks in fashion. It could be included within the domain of social secession icon. While the rediscovery of fashion icon was associated with experimental new fibers, leotard, suitable replacement for wool or acrylic knit, silk that could stretch in any direction, new fabrics that were transparent, took color beautifully, and could be painted, tie-dyed, or embroidered.

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The Study on the Scythian Costume II - Focused on the depicted Scythians on Persian Reliefs - (스키타이 복식 연구 II - 페르시아 왕조 부조에 묘사된 스키타이인을 중심으로 -)

  • Yi-Chang, Youngsoo
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.149-168
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    • 2016
  • The Saka were a large group of Eastern Iranian nomadic tribes on the Eurasian Steppe. The sythian figures shown on the Persian reliefs are esteemed as the only empirical material in the range of scythian costume researches. The study of the scythian culture is an important part in the research of possible connections of our cultural roots with this region. The investigation was initiated by the theory, that the korean people emigrated from the Eurasian region, so that their origin can linked to eurasian riding people. The aim of this study is to organize the scythian clothingform in a typological system. This results shall be used as the starting point for research investigating the origin of the korean clothingform. This study refers to data, which has been extracted from reviews of literature, articles and excavation data of German Archaeological Institute. Results of this study are as follows: The basic form of clothing shown on the Persian reliefs is the upperjacket with narrow sleeve and trousers. This basic form is divided into two different types. 1)The median tunicform upperjacket('Sarapis') and median narrow trousers('Anaxsirides'), which is bound with its end shoes. 2)The Scythian 'Cutaway' upperjacket that is cut from the front in the middle to the knee with the diagonal lines and relatively wide trousers. They wore high pointed hats with flaps over ears and the nape of the neck. The first median type is dated from the $6^{th}$ century BC. and the second type can be found on reliefs from the $5^{th}$ century BC. Reliefs. In the meantime appeared a mixed form, namely scythian Jacket and median trousers. From this analysis could be observed that scythian clothingform has changed by median type to the scythian type. The Scythians shown on the Persian reliefs are divided into three group according to the regions where they lived: Saka-paradraya, Saka-tigraxauda, Saka-haumavarga. Clothingstype is different depending on the group. The clothesform is also used as a good parameter to distinguish scythian groups.

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