• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.19-29
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate Renaissance wall-covering fabrics through Flemish paintings, that provides the details of the origin and development of background of modern wallcovering. The methods of the study are as follows. First, the background of textile development of Flanders in the 14^th to 16^th centuries were examined through a prior study. Second, the shape and use of wallcoverings in paintings painted during that time were analyzed and the process of changing to modern forms was studied. The residential environment with many stone buildings in relatively humid and cold weather created a need for decorative fabrics. Back then, the wool and flax fabric were not allowed to be worn on the body, so the materials were used for the development of interior fabrics. The characteristics of wall covering in Flemish paint can be summarized with movable, allegory, and decoration. Movable stems from the arrival of the emerging aristocrats of Flanders, who had enormous commercial trade and carried decorative fabrics; the mobility has become an allegory in reality as the royal and aristocratic use of wall-decorated fabrics is the symbol of authority. In addition, unlike Italy, where silk was procured from the East, fabrics manufactured using flax and wool were not suitable for clothing in terms of religion and practicality and were used to decorate walls.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.39-49
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• 2012

This study looked into the trend of expression of animal motifs that appears in modern fashion, and the values embedded in them. As to the research method, empirical analysis was performed on the works presented at the four global collections of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2001S/S to 2010F/W, as well as a literature review. As a result, animal motifs applied in modern fashion appeared in material groups, such as leather or feather. The first group shows a realistic material feel, with artificial leather or fur, expressed in a transformed complex animal motif, with process skill or various methods of expression. The second group is the case of a single motif or reality, mode, and ion pattern. Printing is a generic expression, but patchwork, collage or bead ornament are also used, and expressed in the various forms of pattern: pattern in a single animal, pattern in different animals, and pattern combining both animal and other shape. The third group is a small decorative ornament, including headset or accessory and makeup, which is transformed in an animal-characterized motif into part of clothing components for expression, or to set the real animal to the stage for a performance. The embedded values were also categorized as natural beauty, sensual female beauty, pleasure, and ornamentation, which could be an endless spiritual source, and a breakthrough that enables us to show a creative and new aesthetic for the modern fashion field.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.1-12
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• 2008

This study examines the unique characteristics of the color red in relation to images used in areas other than fashion, such as the film or advertising industries. Based on analysed results, the aim was to identify red-colored costume's images expressed in contemporary fashion. Analysis of collected data has lead to four main findings. First, the fashion in which the red color is used delivers a voluptuous image when combined with a skinny silhouette or glossy and transparent dress material, arousing a strong sexual desire in a direct or indirect manner when exposing the body in public. Second, the fashion emphasizes a simplified appearance by minimizing the steps of the production process such as cutting, sewing, and decoration without artificial structural lines and creates an image of simplicity through a single red color or tone-in-tone colorations. Third, the red color, which carries a simultaneous negative and pleasure image represents grotesque playfulness by distorting or exaggerating clothes, transforming the body in disregard of clothing construction, or introducing unnatural makeup. Fourth, in combination of simple and clinging shapes, a material feeling tough like leather and an intensely noticeable red tone, promotes the feminine rather than masculine quality in a splendid, aggressive sporty and active "alpha girl" image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.513-525
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• 2005

This article examines how the development process of muff has changed over history as well as considering value. This study is based on secondary sources such as books and fashion magazines. The imminent value of muff based on the results of this historical study can be summarized by its utility, its ornamentation, and its fashion value. First, muff is not only used to protect the hands or to keep them warm, but also as a substitute for the purse. Second, muff is an ornament decorated mainly with fur, using splendid colors, patterns, embroidery etc. Third, muff goes with other clothes as an ornament, and therefore, can be a means to express the attitude or behavior of many circumstances. Muff has vanished in casual wear and could meet by chance in a designers collection. However, the fashion value of muff brings it new attention making various creative fashion images by itself or with other clothes in the modern fashion trend. This study on the history and the aesthetic value of muff could stimulate the appreciation of the ornamentation aside from the clothes and serve to develop a new creative way in fashion design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.790-798
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• 2021

With digital technology innovation, increased data access and mobile network use by consumers, products and services are changing toward pursuing differentiated values for personalization, and personalized markets are rapidly emerging in the fashion industry. This study aims to identify trends in digital customized automation technology by deriving types of digital customizing and analyzing cases by type, and to present directions for the development of digital customizing processes and the use of technology in the future. As a research method, a literature study for a theoretical background, a case study for classification and analysis of types was conducted. The results of the study are as follows. The types of digital customizing can be classified into three types: 'cooperative customization', 'selective composition and combination', 'transparent suggestion', and automation technologies shown in each type include 3D printing, 3D virtual clothing, robot mannequin, human automatic measurement program, AR-based fitting service, big data, and AI-based curation function. With the development of digital automation technology, the fashion industry environment is also changing from existing manufacturing-oriented to consumer-oriented, and the production process is rapidly changing with IT and artificial intelligence-based automation technology. The results of this study hope that digital customized automation technology will meet various needs of personalization and customization and present the future direction of digital fashion technology, where fashion brands will expand based on the spread of digital technology.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.213-227
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• 2023

To analyze the status and needs of the small- and medium-sized garment manufacturing industry in Busan, this study comprised an online survey of companies and interviews with 14 representatives of the 98 companies. The results are as follows: Approximately 34.7% of the garment manufacturers were located in Geumjeong-gu, Busan. The most common type of work was the contracting factory type. Daily production output was between 100pcs and 300pcs. Production materials comprised 42.9% woven and 24.8% knitted fabrics. Main products were menswear, uniforms, womenswear, casual wear, sports and leisure wear, protective clothes, and children's clothing. The main clients were uniform companies, main factories, wholesale markets, online shopping malls and promotion companies, exporters, and department stores. As a result of a survey on industrial needs with company representatives, their satisfaction with company employees was 57.2%, and the most important factor when hiring employees was job-related competencies, among which the ability to understand the sewing process was the most necessary. In terms of computer software literacy, illustrations and pattern CAD/CAM are required. They thought industry-university cooperation is crucial for advantage for advantage research and product development, as it allows for the sharing knowledge, resources, and especially human resources. The greatest administrative issue were human resources and funding.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.129-147
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.

• Proceedings of the IEEK Conference
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• 2003.07c
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• pp.2693-2696
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• 2003

The national standard physique research of Korea is being conducted every 5-6 year term after its first research was started in 1979, the fourth research was conducted in 1997. The result of the national physique research was reflected in manufactured goods design of allied industries such as clothing, shoes, furniture. In this thesis, we measured anthropometry value for every bodily figurative classification after dividing users according to gender, age, bodily figure using the result of the national standard physique research. We constructed 3D character through the process of analyzing interrelation of measured anthropometry and measuring representative category. For the process for organization, we measured anthropometry which can express sports action of golf, tennis and etc effectively. We made it by Presenting measurement which is able to form each type of 3D character after the category was decided. Quantitative and objective valuation for posture and action became possible by developing visible information offer and posture action analysis protocol in theoretical approach for analysis of posture and action in sports.

• Proceedings of the Korea Contents Association Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.631-634
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• 2006

The national standard physique research of Korea is being conducted every 5$\sim$6 year term after its first research was started in 1979. The result of the national physique research was reflected in manufactured goods design of allied industries such as clothing, shoes, furniture. In this thesis, we measured anthropometry value for every bodily figurative classification after dividing users according to gender, age, bodily figure using the result of the national standard physique research. We constructed 3D character through the process of analyzing interrelation of measured anthropometry and measuring representative category. For the process for organization, we measured anthropometry which can express sports action of golf, tennis and etc effectively. We made it by presenting measurement which is able to form each type of 3D character after the category was decided. Quantitative and objective valuation for posture and action became possible by developing visible information offer and posture action analysis protocol in theoretical approach for analysis of posture and action in sports.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.59-64
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• 2003

The national standard anthropometry of Korea is conducted every 5∼6 year term after its first research was started in 1979, The fourth research was conducted in 1997. The result of the national standard anthropometry has been reflected in manufactured goods design of allied industries such as clothing, shoes and furniture. In this paper, we measured anthropometry data for every bodily figurative classification after dividing users according to gender, age and bodily figure using the result of the national standard anthropometry. We constructed 3D character through the process of analyzing interrelation of measured anthropomeoy and measuring representative category. In the process for organization , we measured anthropometry which can effectively express sports action of golf, tennis etc. We made it by presenting measurement which is able to form each type of 3D character after the category was decided. Quantitative and objective valuation for posture and action became possible by developing visible information offer and posture action analysis protocol in theoretical approach for analysis of posture and action in sports.