• Title/Summary/Keyword: Clothing and Textiles

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Jextile & Clothing Design During the Russian Revolution (러시아 혁명기의 직물과 의상 디자인)

  • Choi, Hyon Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.89-101
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    • 1993
  • The Russian revolution and the successive "art into production" atmosphere provided a unique model of a strict inter-relation between social process and innovative process in the taste. Influenced by CUBISM, RAYONISM and SUPREMATISM emerged in Russia around the time of Russian revolution and gave way to CONSTRUCTIVISM, based on Tatlin's theory, which played a vital role to combine art with social committment. One of the first question to be established after the revolution was the function of art within the new society. First, it should be propagandistic and empahsise the benefit of the new state. Secondly, art could take on an affirmatory role putting foward ideal views of the society as example to be disscussed and followed. Thirdly, the Constructivists' view, "Death to Art" was their slogan. Their view was that the artists' work in the new society was to be based on the material value and beauty in fuction as this alone could be consistent with the aesthetics of Marx and Lenin. It sould be pointed out that among the various applied arts, textiles and clothing design were considered one of the most important role in propaganda and in support of the new socialst ideas. Traditionl handicrafts provided a repository of popular images and folk art continued to assert an influence on the textiles and clothing design after the revolution. Constructivists, such as Stepanova and Popova, went to the factory as direct answer to the invitation for the art-industry rapport. Thematic or propagandistic designs were directly connected to the daily life and national transformation.

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The Improvements of the Clothing and Textiles Field in the 5th Edition of KDC (한국십진분류법 제5판 의류학 분야의 수정 전개 방안)

  • Kim, Jeong-Hyen
    • Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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    • v.43 no.3
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    • pp.101-120
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    • 2012
  • This study investigated general problems concerning the clothing and textiles field in the KDC 5th edition based comparative analysis academic characteristics and classification system, and suggested on some ideas for the improvements of them. Results of the study is summarized as follows. First, the classification system of the clothing and textiles field is generally divided by costume, dyeing engineering, leather & fur processing, textiles and textile industries, manufacturing clothes, management of clothing, and textile arts. Second, I proposed improvements based on analyzing problems of KDC 5th to the clothing and textiles field from the collection database at the National Library of Korea. Third, basically improvements of KDC system was based on the knowledge of the clothing and textiles field. I tried to maintain as the KDC existing classification system was to retain as much as possible, and to move between items was minimal.

Fashion Accessory Design Using Hand-Knitting: - Focused on Necklace and Bangle Design - (니팅 기법을 이용한 패션 액세서리 디자인 - 목걸이와 팔찌 디자인을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Seung-A;Jekal, Mee;Jang, Jung-Im;Yoon, Jung-A;Kim, Soo-Young;Chung, Young-Sun;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.61-73
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study is to create unique formative beauty with free expressive method and to suggest accessory design with individuality through this, by using hand-knitting technique in design of necklace and bangle, which belong to personal ornament among fashion accessories. It analyzed on theoretical background of knit technique and accessory through documentary research, examined the accessory design tendency and the research tendency through collection materials, and then suggested 9 works in accessory ornament design of using hand-knitting technique, based on this. The results are as follows. First, even in overseas collection, accessories in diverse materials and shapes were being show cased. Volume in necklace or bangle was indicated to be big. There were many cases of covering several items together. Second, the hand-knitting technique in originative accessory design could be confirmed to be possibly used broadly in the range of pattern and shape available for making by using yarn in diverse thicknesses with proper technique, and by transforming basic tissue according to knitting technique. Third, through the results of making ornaments in 7 necklaces and 2 bangles, the hand-knitting technique was confirmed to possibly expanding the application range of knitting technique in the accessory field, and has significance in having suggested individual accessory.

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A Study on the Variation of the Skin Surface According to Arm Movement by $Moir\'{e}$ Photography Method -In the area of uppearm and shoulder blade- ($Moir\'{e}$ Photography법에 의한 동작시 체표면 형태 변화에 관한 연구 -상지 및 견갑골 부위를 중심으로-)

  • Kim Haekyung;Cho Jungmee;Suh Chuyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.14 no.4 s.36
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    • pp.292-304
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    • 1990
  • The surface change of upperarm and shoulder blade area are caused by the extensive upper limb movement, thus it is necessary to measure the amount of change for constructing the clothing. Moire photography was taken after plastic casters of upperarm and shoulder blade area was prepared. 1. For the shoulder blade area, subjects showed the same change of surface area for the various limb positions, wherease, for the upperarm only at the $0^{\circ}\;and\;180^{\circ}$ limb position, same change was observed. 2. As the movement of the upperarm was increased, surface area of axillary part was increased and that of shoulder part was decreased. 3. To make a bodice pattern, the minimum size of the back with the ease were $\frac{B}{4}$+3.13 cm R for normal wear and $\frac{B}{4}$+5.75 cm for active wear. 4. As the movement of the arm was increased, the cross section for the upperarm were changed to elliptical shape. 5. For each horizontal basic line, there was a positive correlation between the amount of change of shoulder blad area and that of upperarm area.

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Ex situ Coloration of Laccase-Entrapped Bacterial Cellulose with Natural Phenolic Dyes

  • Kim, Hyunjin;Song, Ji Eun;Kim, Hye Rim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.45 no.5
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    • pp.866-880
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    • 2021
  • This study aimed to ex situ colorize laccase-entrapped bacterial cellulose (BC) with natural phenolic dyes, namely,madder, turmeric, and cochineal, and to determine the effect of laccase entrapment on the dyeability of BC using color strength (K/S) analysis. Results showed that laccase entrapment improved the dyeability of BC and that pre-entrapment was the most effective method, compared with meta-entrapment and post-entrapment methods. In addition, surface characterizations confirmed the successful entrapment of laccase inside the BC nanostructure and retention of the cellulosic and crystalline structures of BC. The washing durability test confirmed that the K/S value of BC had improved after laccase entrapment. Furthermore, laccase-entrapped BC colorized with cochineal dye had the highest washing durability due to the high molecular weight of cochineal dyerelative to the other dyes. This study suggests a novel method for enhancing the dyeability and washing durability of BC colorized ex situ with natural phenolic dyes by laccase entrapment.

Clothing and Cultural Approach : The Importance of Qualitative Method (의복과 문화적 접근: 질적 연구 방법의 중요성)

  • 김현식
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.510-520
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    • 2000
  • Despite the important of qualitative research method, little is used to understand dress and culture in Korea. This study proposed qualitative research method to understand deeply cultural aspects of dress. The articles which were selected from J. of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, The Korean Society of Costume, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Home Economics Research Journal, published master's thesis and doctoral dissertation, and interdisciplinary articles were analyzed from 1977~1999. Based on results of the analysis of articles, it was found that qualitative research method was appropriate to understand dress and culture. Many articles were dealt with non-western culture. However, the use of qualitative research method is very well suited to help the researcher understand concepts that are deeply embedded in western culture. Implications pertain to researcher in the area of human behavior and marketing. The importance of dependability and credibility was discussed in qualitative research method.

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Changes in the Characteristics of Textile Products according to the Storage Environmental Condition for Sustainable Care (섬유제품의 지속가능한 관리를 위한 보관환경에 따른 특성변화 연구)

  • Kim, Jeong-Hwa;Lee, Sun-young;Lee, Jung-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.46 no.3
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    • pp.390-406
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    • 2022
  • This study aims to establish the optimal environmental conditions for storing textile products. Four textile products (cotton, wool, nylon, cotton/polyurethane) were used to produce experimental fabrics according to artificial contamination and washing conditions. Each fabric was subjected to three environmental conditions (A: 20-25℃/20% RH, B: 20-25℃/50% RH, C: 30-35℃/65% RH) for 4-12 weeks. Changes in textile characteristics include tensile strength, wrinkle recovery rate, and odor intensity. Results show that the change in tensile strength for the four test fabrics slightly decreased with a storage time of 4 to 12 weeks. The wrinkle recovery rate of the fabrics was the lowest under the C condition. UV exposure causes a substantial decrease in the tensile strength of the textiles. The change in odor characteristics was the highest for the odor intensity in the C condition. For storing textile products for sustainable management, it is desirable to maintain a temperature of 20 to 25℃ with a relative humidity of 50% RH or less and to provide ventilation in an enclosed storage space that can also block UV rays.

Clothing Pressure, Blood Flow, and Subjective Sensations of Women in Their 50s and 60s When Wearing a Commercial Yoga Bra Top (시판 요가용 브라탑 착용 시 50~60대 여성의 의복압 및 혈류와 주관적 반응)

  • Park, Soyoung;Kim, Namyim;Hong, Kyunghi;Lee, Yejin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.45 no.4
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    • pp.586-597
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    • 2021
  • This study analyzed clothing pressure, blood flow, and subjective sensations among women in their 50s and 60s while wearing commercially available yoga bra tops (YBTs). These findings could then serve as basic data for designing YBT for women in this age range. Clothing pressure and blood flow reactions were measured in seven participants wearing four commercially available YBTs. Subjective sensations of pressure and comfort were also evaluated. The calculated data were analyzed using the SPSS 24.0 statistical program. The results suggested that YBT4 exerted the lowest clothing pressure, while YBT2 and YBT3 exerted relatively higher clothing pressures. Participants' blood flow decreased while wearing YBTs compared to the control garment. The decrease of 47.3% when the participants wore YBT2 was especially significant. The results confirmed that the blood velocity rate was physiologically lower while wearing all four YBTs than when wearing the control garment. Results for subjective pressure and overall comfort confirmed that YBT2 and YBT3 exerted relatively high pressure, while YBT4 did not exert pressure.

Aesthetical Approach of Beauty Design in the 21st Century -Focus on Korean Aesthetics- (21세기 뷰티디자인의 미학적 접근 -한국 미의식을 중심으로-)

  • Byun, Young-Hee;Chae, Keum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.8
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    • pp.1325-1336
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    • 2009
  • This study is to find the interpretation of Korean aesthetics with emotional, relative, synthetic thinking in the ambiguity of characteristics of multi-culturalism and ambivalence in contemporary beauty design. Beauty design incorporates makeup and hair design to complete the total images with clothing in fashion shows and Korean aesthetics based on Korean religion and art that include the symbolism of humor, irregularity, moderation, harmony, unification, and emptiness. This study analyzes 864 works of make-up and hair design from 2001 S/S to 2009 F/W to understand the beauty design to summarize the natural, eclectic, classic, poor, humor, and decadent tendencies. The characteristics of aesthetics sense of Beauty Design are summarized as artless naturalism, integrate pluralism, de-constructive deviation, and temperate poverty.

Meaning of Clothing in Social Contexts: Emphasis on Korean Clothing, Study I (사회적 상호작용에서의 의복의 의미 ( I ) - 한복을 중심으로 -)

  • Kahng HeWon;Lee Joo Hyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.14 no.1 s.33
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    • pp.31-43
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    • 1990
  • This research studied the first impression of a stranger in various styles of Korean or Western attire in several socially interacting contexts. The semantic differential scale was used to analyze the responses of IHO male and 180 female university students to line drawings of male and female figures in Korean or Western formal and informal attire in campus, office, and ambiguous contexts. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan's test. Six factors emerged to account for dimensions of first impressions. These were evaluation, potency, prestige and formality, conformity, likableness, and conspicuousness. Clothing styles had a larger effect on responses than context. Persons in traditional Korean styles were perceived as more prestigious, formal, individualistic, and less competent than those in Western styles. Conversely persons in both formal and informal Western styles were perceived as more attractive and more competent than those in traditional Korean styles. Persons in casual Western styles were considered least prestigious and least formal. A weak interaction effect was found between clothing style and social context.

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