• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.42-56
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to review the literatures and the wall paintings of the ancient tombs of Koguryo in an effort to try to understand the characteristics of the culture of dyeing in Koguryo. The research findings follow: 1. The colors that were in vogue in Koguryo are five cardinal colors (red, blue, white, black, and yellow) and compound colors, like purple and green. Those colors were used in some or all parts of the clothing and even on some parts of the body. 2. Some clothing of Koguryo as shown in the wall paintings were made with a single and solid color by dip dyeing method. But the majority of the clothing had a variety of patterns. Among the patterns, the geometrical dot pattern took the majority. 3. The dyeing techniques used in Koguryo were printing, yarn dyeing, embroidery, wax resist dyeing, drawing and painting. The development of yarn dyeing method, weaving with silk-threads dyed in various colors, enabled to produce Geum fabrics, which were used for the upper classes' clothing. 4. The esthetic features represented in the colors of Koguryo include the beauty of contrast coloring, preference for red, preference for geometrical patterns, and the harmony of yin and yang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.981-991
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to determine the practicability of an experimental protective clothing by identifying the human body's physiological responses to it as well as the human body's comfort level when wearing it, particularly with the use of a processed charcoal material. The experimental protective clothing came in two types: one whose outer side made use of polypropylene film, and the inner side, a non-woven rayon fabric; and one whose inner side made use of a non-woven fabric processed with charcoal with a 10% density. Experiments were conducted on five healthy adult women whose average age was 21. These experiments were conducted at a climatic chamber, in which the temperature and relative humidity were set below $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C\;and\;50{\pm}10%$, respectively, and were measured within a period of 60min, consisting of a 20-min rest period, a 20-min exercise period, and a 20-min recovery period. Based on the results of this study, the efficiency of the processed charcoal material was reviewed, and a database requiring the production of more functional and comfortable protective clothing materials was established.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.612-625
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• 2018

This study designed 16 kinds of basic structure and 4 kinds of modified structure for impact protection pads with a spacer fabric shape. The pad is a structure in which hexagonal three-dimensional units, composed of a surface layer and a spacer layer, are interconnected. Designed pads were printed with flexible $NinjaFlex^{(R)}$ materials using a FDM 3D printer. The printed pads were evaluated for impact protection performance, compression properties and sensory properties. The evaluation of the impact protection performance indicated that basic structures better than CR foam material at 20cm height were DV1.5, DX1.5, DX1.0, DV1.0 and HV1.5. The evaluation of the compression properties for the five types, with good results in the impact protection performance, indicated that DV1.0, DX1.0, DV1.5, HV1.5 and DX1.5 showed good results, respectively. The sensory evaluation of DV1.0, DX1.0, and DV1.5, which with good results when considering both the impact protection performance and the compression performance, showed that DV1.0 were the best for surface, flexibility, compression and weight. Therefore, DV1.0 is shown to be the best structure for protection pads.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.403-413
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop a 3D mesh-type impact protection pad with excellent motion adaptability and functionality by applying 3D printing technology. The hexagonal 3D mesh, which constitutes the basic structure of the pad, comprises two types: small and large. The bridge connecting the basic units was designed as the I-type, V-type, IV-type, and VV-type. After evaluating the characteristics of the bridge, it was found that the V-type bridge had the highest flexibility and tensile elongation. The hip joint pad and knee pad were completed by combining the hexagonal 3D mesh structure with the optimal bridge design. The impact protection pad was printed using a fused deposition modeling-type 3D printer with a filament made of thermoplastic polyurethane material, and the protection pad's performance was evaluated. When an impact force of approximately 6,500N was applied to the pad, the force attenuation percentage was 78%, and when an impact force of approximately 8,000N was applied, the force attenuation percentage was 75%. Through these results, it was confirmed that the 3D-printed impact protection pad with a hexagonal 3D mesh structure connected by a V-shaped bridge developed in this study can adapt to changes in the body surface according to movement and provides excellent impact protection performance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.504-518
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• 2023

The objective of this study was to explore the symbolism associated with phoenix patterns in China and the temporal aesthetic characteristics of these patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The study involved collecting examples of clothing designs featuring phoenix patterns from China Fashion Week and the Vogue website, spanning from spring and summer of 2016 to fall and winter of 2022. After collecting and organizing these examples, representative cases were selected for analysis. The objective was to identify effective techniques for incorporating phoenix patterns within the context of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and provided insights for future clothing design and textile pattern design research. Phoenix patterns boasted a lengthy history and were laden with symbolic meaning. Early renditions of phoenix patterns found at Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were relatively simplistic in design, mainly employing elements like rhythm, coordination, balance and symmetry to convey a sense of nature and gravity. Over time, these patterns evolved under the influence of the prevailing cultural backdrop, employing repeated emphasis to portray notions of abundance and tenacity. Furthermore, regarding the use of phoenix patterns in clothing, there were four prevalent expression techniques: embroidery, beading, printing, and knitting. Traditional techniques like embroidery and beadwork often prioritized aesthetic features like coordination, emphasis, and symmetry, thereby showcasing the opulent characteristics of phoenix patterns. On the other hand, printing and knitting techniques used a single phoenix pattern or a modified version to simplify designs by emphasizing or repeating aesthetic characteristics while adhering to a modern artistic approach.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.311-322
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• 2023

In this study, the properties of various material combinations were evaluated and an ideal material for fabricating protection pads for women's army combat uniforms was determined. Eight specimens were used for the evaluation: two types of materials, namely thermoplastic polyurethane for 3D printing, T and ethylene-vinyl acetate, E; two infill densities, namely 10%, 10 and 30%, 30; two types of pad designs, i.e., without holes, A and with holes, B; 2×2×2=8 and control E. The tensile strength, flexural strength, impact absorption, and weight of these specimens were evaluated. Results revealed that E was the most flexible material; however, its tensile strength and impact absorption were very low. Protection pads made from T (T-10A, T-10B, T-30A, and T-30B) had excellent tensile strength and impact absorption; however, they had low performance in ease of movement. Alternatively, protection pad with holes and an infill density of 30% produced using a combination of T and E had a high initial tensile modulus and exhibited excellent impact absorption. Moreover, it was flexible and light, which satisfies the standards and conditions required by protection pads. However, if T-E-10A and T-E-30B exhibited low impact absorption, as required, they can be regarded as appropriate materials for protection pads.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.49-63
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of modular design observed in Korean traditional clothing. Modular design, which is one of the noticeable characteristics of modern fashion design emerged in the 20th century. This study analyzed the Korean traditional culture to investigate the characteristics that show similarities to the modular system in design. A traditional Korean house is composed of small structures called 'chae'. A traditional Korean building is composed of a basic unit space called 'kan', and the rooms are divided and recombined. Korean traditional interior design shows furniture, bedding and art works that could be used, folded then stored. Korean cuisine is served in combination with small dishes. Korean letters are combined in square shaped form to make writing and printing easy. Korean traditional clothing has a way of washing where clothing are disassembled, washed and then re-stitched. The pattern pieces are made to be rectangular shaped so that the fabric pieces can be kept in shape during washing. The rectangular shaped pattern pieces can be replaced and reused after washing. Tops and bottoms could be interchanged for color-coordination, because the shapes of the clothing were standardized. These features exhibit modular system in Korean traditional clothing design. Modular system design has common characteristics which have basic modules, pursue practical purpose, have interchangeability adapted to circumstances, and could be disassembled and re-combined. Korean traditional clothing illustrates different ways of practicing modular system, but has some common features to contemporary modular fashion design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.810-825
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• 2021

This study measured and analyzed clothing pressure at each measurement part of commercial body shapers to provide basic information for product design and clothing pressure standard and level. This study used five body shaper. Clothing pressure measurements were taken at 18points: Anterior area 8points, lateral area 5points, posterior area 5points. The findings of this study were as follows. As a result of measuring the clothing pressure, the body shaper 1 showed the highest pressure, and body shaper 5 showed the lowest pressure at almost of the measurement points of the three body types. In some cases, body shapers 2, 3, and 4 showed different orders of pressure depending on the measurement point. The highest measured values in most body shapers were the P1 shoulder area and the P2 bust area. The lowest measurement area differed by body type, but mainly P3 underbust area, P4 thorax area and P9 axillary area, P11 waist lateral area, P13 hip lateral area. These body shapers showed different results depending on the the manufacturers and body type of middle-aged women, and because there was no standard for the pressure value. Therefore, it is necessary to design a body shaper sizing system after accurately setting the clothing pressure value for each body part of the consumer.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.1010-1020
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• 2004

The purposes of this study were to investigate characteristic changes on nonwoven fabric by the charcoal and the yellow soil printing. It separate the grind charcoal and the yellow soil as two different size of particles $45{\sim}52{\mu}m\;and\;53{\sim}65{\mu}m$ for hand screen printing on three kind of nonwoven fabrics. To examine the effect of the charcoal and the yellow soil printing on nonwoven fabric were to observe surface changes by a scanning electron microscope, dyeability by using spectrophotometer, moisture regain by oven method, deodorization and antibacterial activity. The results were as follows: When the charcoal and the yellow soil powder concentration increased from 3 to $9\%$ or from 5 to $10\%$, K/S value also increased from 3.06 to 8.55 or from 1.14 to 1.80. The charcoal and the yellow soil moisture regain also increased. In same concentration, moisture regain occurred higher as particle of small size. In concentration of charcoal $3\%$, rate of deodorization measured as $89\%,\;83\%\;and\;87\%,\;and\;9\%$ concentration caused $96\%,\;86\%\;and\;93\%$ of high deodorization. In concentration of 5, $10\%$ of yellow soil, rate of deodorization measured as $85\%$ over. Antibacterial activity examination in nonfinished nonwoven fabric resulted range of $60\%$, however, $3\%\;and\;9\%$ concentration finished nonwoven fabric resulted $99.9\%$ of excellent antibacterial activity. Also $5\%,\;10\%$ yellow soil concentration was appeared same resoult.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.1003-1016
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to reorganize any rusty image including natural modeling characteristic presented from the natural phenomenon to certain patterns in order to create the fashion design that are valued in the expansion of independently expressional area and modeling art. As a method for research, the author analyzed the concept and characteristic for rust with a base of theoretical background by the documental research and realistic consideration, analyzed its modeling characteristic through domestic and overseas pictures, and e-documents as data, inspected the modeling activities of various categories that various images were adapted related to rust, looked into the concept of Digital Textile Printing and its producing procedure as an expressional method, and analyzed the examples of modern dress and its ornament making use of Digital Textile Printing. The conclusions of this study are as below. First, the rust occurred due to the natural phenomenon is the bond with different material like metal, each unique modeling characteristic occurs and harmony of various patterns has abundant aesthetic value. Second, the author could endowed sensible characteristic and speciality with works and could produce creative fashion design that painting, abstractive pattern and harmony of unique sense of colors are significant by using the image of rust, Third, to emphasize natural feeling of rust, the author could develop creative design that simple silhouette and impressive pattern look significant by reorganizing and applying rust according to repetition, increment, rhythm, contract, emphasis and harmony. Fourth, Digital Textile Printing method is used to induce visual effect by the expression of feels of rust, and the author could express the natural patterns, delicate expression for the feels of a material and unique design of emotion.