• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.128-149
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• 2011

This study dealing with the Italian futurist and Russian constructivist costume designs which aimed for new fashion design freed from the conventional meanings of fashion and explore the artistic purpose reflected within the designs expressed differently according to cultural and regional differences in order examine the early 20th century Avant-grade costume designs. The scope of this study is limited to the 1910s to the 1930s when the Italian futurism and the Russian constructivism were originated and were most active. This monograph focused on the works of the Italian futurists, Giacomo Balla who declared the 'Manifesto delle moda minile futurista', Fortunato Depero, and Thayaht who suggested a new direction for the futurist, and on the works of the Russian constructivists Alexander Rodchenko, Varvara Stepanova and Liubov Popova. As an one method of investigated, this paper is used materials of various sources to examine their features. Futurists costume designs expressed a radical conception of progress and their source of aesthetics was dynamism. The concept of 'power' which was the basis of the futurists was incorporated in the costumes while non-symmetrical cut-outs and bright and vivid colors completed the futurist costume designs. Moreover the Russian constructivists brought advances in the field of fabric and textile designs. What was particularly interesting about the Russian constructivist costumes was that the artists worked at the textile mills themselves, directly involved in the designs and manufacturing of fabric, developing an advancement in textile and a new understanding of costume. Furthermore, many Russian artists settled in Paris, actively participating in the fashion industry, and therefore, they have greatly contributed to the development of the early 20th century Avant-garde costume designs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.176-203
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• 2011

In today's intensifying global competition, Korean fashion industry is relying on only qualitative data for feasibility study of future projects and developmental plan. This study was conducted in order to support establishment of a scientific and rational management system that reflects market demand. First, fashion market size was limited to the total amount of expenditure for fashion clothing products directly purchased by Koreans for wear during 6 months in spring and summer and 6 months in autumn and winter. Fashion market forecasting model was developed using statistical forecasting method proposed by previous research. Specifically, time series model was selected, which is a verified statistical forecasting method that can predict future demand when data from the past is available. The time series for empirical analysis was fashion market sizes for 8 segmented markets at 22 time points, obtained twice each year by the author from 1998 to 2008. Targets of the demand forecasting model were 21 research models: total of 7 markets (excluding outerwear market which is sensitive to seasonal index), including 6 segmented markets (men's formal wear, women's formal wear, casual wear, sportswear, underwear, and children's wear) and the total market, and these markets were divided in time into the first half, the second half, and the whole year. To develop demand forecasting model, time series of the 21 research targets were used to develop univariate time series models using 9 types of exponential smoothing methods. The forecasting models predicted the demands in most fashion markets to grow, but demand for women's formal wear market was forecasted to decrease. Decrease in demand for women's formal wear market has been pronounced since 2002 when casualization of fashion market intensified, and this trend was analyzed to continue affecting the demand in the future.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.163-175
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• 2011

This study tried to improve the design of the symbol mark for the fashion industry and effectively publicize the brand image of a small fashion accessory company through a powerful visual communication strategy. For this purpose, this study performed research and an analysis of the features of existing fashion accessory companies as well as the current status and features of their utilization of symbol marks for the enhancement of the brand's image. Total 48 fashion accessory brands focued on jewerly were selected from the Dictionary of Fashion Brand and the types of symbol analyzed the concepts and formative aesthetics of the symbol mark design in each brand. Based on the data, this study designed the fashion accessory company's logo and a new symbol mark design. It makes full use of the characteristics of the logos and the symbol mark that reflect the most critical issues of fashion accessory design so as to promote the consumers' level of product recognition as well as the product symbol characteristics. In the case of combining characters with concrete objects, they were found generally to use objects that give elegance, cute and feminine images, such as rings, hearts and small pets. Moreover, colors in the series of black/grey seemed to be used to convey the concept of accessory brands that pursue modern, sophisticate, and practical images. As these design plans, enhancement of the consumers' level of recognition of the brand is attempted as well as the execution of an effective publicity of the feature of the product through the use of the logo and symbol marks reflecting the features of the fashion accessory, instead of simply introducing the brand or product. The result of this study indicates that methods to design brand symbol marks for clothing should be incessantly sought in a way to build brand power as an important component to represent concepts and reinforce brand image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.53-69
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• 2010

This study compared the work environment colors and the colors of working clothes by conducting a field survey of domestic machinery manufacturers who are playing a central role in Korean industries so as to develop and evaluate working clothes based on the safety of workers and environmental harmony. For the study method, after the color-related requirements were collected through interviews and field surveys, the fabrics for working clothes were woven and the colors were selected using the requirements. The designs of working clothes were developed with an emphasis on color design. The colors of the working clothes were also analyzed in their relationship to the working environment. The evaluations were separately performed for the appearance and the colors with workers of D machinery manufacturing company. The appearance and color satisfaction, safety, psychology, and harmony with environment were evaluated on a 5-point scale by workers and their safety managers. Furthermore, pictures of the workers in their existing working clothes and the newly developed working clothes were taken with a digital camera while they were working in the field. The RGB values of the pictures were extracted using Photoshop ver. 7.01, which were converted to HVC values using Munsell Conversion ver. 4.0.1. This study found that higher satisfaction levels were shown for the newly developed working clothes compared to the existing ones. The actual measurements also showed that the newly developed had higher brightness and clearer chromatic contrast than the existing ones, indicating higher explicitness and attention for safety of workers. These types of studies can contribute to the integrated working environment plan of machinery manufacturers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.98-113
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• 2013

This study is an attempt to analyze the daily life of the Western-yearning Seoul citizens and the inflow of the Western culture into certain social classes. The customs of the characters in the film are studied to illustrate the process of deconstruction of Korean traditional clothes due to the Western influence. The combined application of the Western and Korean styles is also observed. All this study leads to the sense of homogeneity of the times and the conformity to the culture the Korean women shared, which boils down to the social identity of the Korean women who sought an escape from the men-centered social structure by displaying their competence in the field of global modern fashion. As Seonyeong Oh, the main character of the film, , was wearing in the movie the Korean traditional dress, socks, rubber shoes, and then a western-style coat, it well shows that in 1950's, the traditional dress and ornaments were mixed with Western styles. In time, men's wear were completely changed from the traditional Korean clothes to suits, while women's could not break off from the traditional clothes and become westernized, which indicates that the men-centered conservative ideas to keep women within the feudal regime of the society remained. The military look of Seonyeong Oh while she was acting in the society was a symbol of anti-bias against women and anti-convention as well as the will of freedom as an independent woman. Besides, the modern girls would wear clothes of military fashion, Dior's trapeze line, and knit styles flattering the figures. All these well show their desires to embrace Western cultures, especially their dress fashions as well as manners as so-called enlightened ladies. All these elements show that the director was trying to represent the progress of the drama, characters, and psychological states by means of the dress and ornaments.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.46-62
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• 2013

This thesis aims to provide basic resources for the development of various uniform designs of cheerleaders by investigating the currently favoured uniform designs. The 13 professional cheerleader teams were existed among the 25 professional sports teams-9 baseball, 10 basketball and 6 volleyball teams. In each sports teams, four cheerleader's uniform were chosen and evaluated in terms of the cheerleader uniform design by analyzing the forms, colors, decorations and accessories. The result shows that the common kinds of design representing the symbolic color and the emblem were generally prevalent, instead of particular types of uniform design and subject in accordance with different kinds of the professional baseball, basketball and volleyball respectively. Throughout all the kinds of the sports, the combination of the sleeveless top and hot-pants were most frequently observed. In case of the skirts, the mini flare, wrap, and pleats skirts were the most prevalent, because it gave free to motion for cheerleading. The one-piece style were rather infrequent, comparing with the two-pieces, with the hourglass and fitted silhouette the most frequent type, and all those were mini in length. The sleeve in top were generally absent or short, however the bare top style was never found that the top would have a risk of being taken off downwardly during cheerleading. The accessories and the cheering tools were not so much used. The cap and headdresses were not many in kinds. The pompom, megaphone, tube stick, towel, umbrella and musical instruments would not be sufficient to play a role of tools for cheering, which suggests that the rather advanced tools or instruments for cheering in the sports need to be developed, not alone the uniform design.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.12 no.9
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• pp.3815-3826
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• 2011

TThis study was undertaken to make trial costumes of ball jointed dolls for promoting the beauty of Korean cultural product with historical research of upper class ladie's costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon, the very unknown period in the Korean costume history. The ladies' costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon are characterized by their full silhouette, fusion with clothings of Yuan and Ming, revival of early Goryeo styles, well-developed weaving skill of ramie, a showy costume from Buddhist civilization. After investigation of researcher with literature, painting, and relics in 13-14C, 8 clothing items were outsourced totally. Items were formed as a set concept, but consumer can choose each costume as an single item and can make varied mix also. Dart, small ties, and thick fabrics were used in doll costumes partly because ball jointed doll's body has different characteristics from that of human beings. Developing research of manufacturing company's system for ready-made product remains to be considered in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.624-633
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• 2021

This study was intended to compare the comfort of wearing each type of commercially available bralette. The trial wearing experiment was conducted on five women in their 20s who wear an average Korean bra size of 70A. The experimental bralettes were of four types: a bralette with both hooks and pads and a bralette without both, a bralette with hooks but no pads, and a bralette with pads but no hooks. The wearing test results are as follows. First, in terms of functional satisfaction, the padded bralette provided the greatest satisfaction in supporting the chest from the bottom up and bringing it to the center, and the bralette without the pad provided the least satisfaction. In addition, the level of convenience of attaching/detaching was about twice as high in the bralette with hooks than those without hooks. Chest compression was found to be greater in bralettes without hooks than in those with hooks. In terms of the pressure on the shoulder strap and on the lower chest band, it was found that bralettes with hooks had a greater sense of pressure than those without. In the appearance characteristics test, the unpadded bralettes scored higher than the padded one in the matter of feeling embarrassed, because in unpadded bralettes, the nipples were exposed underneath the clothes . This study is meaningful in classifying the design of the bralette and evaluating the fit for each design in the absence of prior research on the bralette.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.63-79
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• 2021

In order to expand the overseas market of the Korean fashion industry, it is necessary to investigate the fashion-related purchases and fashion consciousness of Muslim women, who are increasingly attracting attention as global fashion consumers. Therefore a survey was conducted to identify the fashion design preferences and fashion consciousness of Malaysian Muslim women. A total of 245 responses were collected and analyzed. The survey included questions on demographic characteristics, fashion product purchases, design preferences and environmental awareness. The data were analyzed through frequency, average and standard deviation. The analysis showed that the majority of respondents were young Malaysian Muslim women in their 20s and 30s. They preferred a modern, Sophisticated, and sporty image, and their preference for unpatterned fabrics was high. When choosing fashion products, these women seek to both pursue fashion trends and comply with Islamic laws. When the women buy clothes, they consider practicality and design elements. The women also collected fashion trend information through SNS and the Internet, and ues this information to purchase fashion products through the Internet and shopping malls. This study was based on a practical survey of local consumers. Therefore, it is expected that the results can be used as data for fashion-related studies and to expand overseas markets to reach Muslim women in Southeast Asia.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.189-202
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• 2019

This study develops a bodice pattern for high school girls aged 17 to 19 that use virtual garment simulation. The study developed a bodice pattern based on the fit evaluation result for two selected bodice patterns. The basic formula of the design method based on the result of 3 times of fit evaluation is as follows: waist back $length=stature/8{\times}1.85cm$, waist front length=waist back length+bust/40+0.7cm, front bust girth=bust/2+4cm, back bust girth=Chest/2+3cm, armscye depth=Chest/4+0.5cm, back interscye length=bishoulder length -1.2cm, front interscye length=back interscye length -1.2cm, front neck width=back neck width -0.3cm. The developed bodice pattern used Bishoulder Length as a criteria for the calculation formula of back interscye length, and back interscye length as a criteria for the calculation formula of front interscye length. The fit evaluation showed the relevance of the bishoulder length, front interscye length, and back interscye length based on a comparison of the calculated figure. A bodice pattern with great body suitability and fitness to high school girls was developed through 3D virtual garment simulation that calculated the application of body proportion to width. This study only analyzed the evaluation result of a virtual model only in a representative form; however, a pattern study is also proposed to compare and analyze the design methods of patterns by body type.