• Journal of KIISE:Computer Systems and Theory
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.84-93
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• 2008

Modeling and rendering of cloth texture have been regarded as one of the most important factors to enhance reality of the contents in the digital contents industry. So far, however, two major approaches to realistically describe the cloth texture were developed: building analytical reflectance model for target cloth and sometimes thread itself and obtaining overall reflectance model using optical equipments. However, yielding a plausible analytic reflection model satisfying many subtle characteristics of a cloth is not an easy task; moreover, fine-detailed modeling of the cloth pattern across the target clothes should also be accompanied by huge amount of computation. The method to obtain overall reflectance model needs expensive measurement equipments and data size becomes huge. Since it applies in the end the reflectance model obtained at one point of a cloth to across whole the visible area of the target clothes, it cannot properly reproduce the pattern of the clothes nor the texture. To address the aforementioned problems, this paper proposes a simple low cost camera rig and a novel method for realistic modeling and rendering of the cloth texture by analyzing photos taken by the proposed camera rig, which can reproduce even the texture pattern applied to the whole clothes, overcoming the one-point reflectance model.

• Journal of Korea Game Society
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.97-105
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• 2009

In this paper, we propose a new rendering scheme of cloth by measuring light-scattering pattern inside the cloth and reproducing using the pattern. To date, the BTF(Bidirectional Texture Function) has been one of the most appropriate method to realistically reconstruct cloth surface. However, the BTF has a couple of defects that it ultimately requires an infinite amount of data and all light effects should be used all together. We noted that internal scattering has a decisive contribution to the reality of cloth. Following this observation, we take an image of a ray of light scattering inside cloth for every position of the cloth sample and determine each pixel value by adding up all light influences arriving from its vicinity. Our method we propose in this paper provides a clue to more realistically represent cloth-like materials, which is one of the most challenging materials to express, by enabling each ray to be controlled individually.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.17
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• pp.137-148
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• 1991

The use of bark cloth, made of the inner bark of certain trees, was widespread along tropical zones from the Africa to the Hawaii encompassing the globe. They include Malaysia, Indonesia, New Guinea, Polynesian Islands and South America. Among them the Hawaiian bark cloth, named Kapa(pronounced as tapa) was rated as the best quality and most admired. It has variety in designs and colors as well as the most sophistcated production methods. The distinct processes of kapa making are composed of two stages. The first is called first beating and it is a preparatory stage to beat the sea-water soaked bast. It was done with a round beater on a stone anvil. The second beating process was carried out with the squared beater and wooden anvil. The strips from the first beating was soaked again in the water and then beaten lightly to break up fibers. The craftmen laid a bundle of strips over the anvil and beat it into pieces of kapa. The second beater of Hawaii was the most characteristic one among bark cloth producing countries. On their surfaces were the engraved patterns, which were creation of theirs. These distinguished designs enabled them to produce the kapa with the thinner and finer texture and an elaboration of impressed designs known as "watermaks". The Hawaiian culture was self-sufficient one : Everything they used was of their own creation until 19th century. Among their inventions of printing designs on kapa are three most important and distinguished processes. They are the overlaying, the cord snapping and the block printing techniques. Their inventiveness as well as self sufficient environment made it possible to develop their fine art of the kapa making. It is said that the mass producing and cheap western technology of loom forced them to gradually abandon their traditional art and as a result this fine and valuable legacy of Hawaiian traditional kapa making technique is all but disappeared. However it is encouraging and heart warming to find that some of the people as well as specialized researchers pined together to form a group to try to reproduce the old kapa and study the traditional art. They consider the kapa as an expression of the ethnic identity with Hawaii's heritage as well as valuable art of human history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.400-411
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• 2012

This study analyzes the formative changes and trends of cape design in modern fashion. In this study, a total of 496 cape designs were collected through the four major fashion collections of Paris, Milan, New York, and London from 2006S/S to 2010F/W, and a literature overview on capes was performed. The results of this study show that the cases with collars and hoods attached outnumbered the non-collared designs. In addition, the cases of lengthy cape in the hip or knee line represent more portions in designs. As to the material, it indicated that generic cloth was used the most. In most cases, decorations with various details and trimmings were also used. For expression characteristics, cases only with unique texture to cloth material and formative beauty were the most remarkable without decoration. For the formative feature, the independent item style was found the most, even though it was worn together with other kinds of clothing. Integration with other types also appeared such as cape jacket, cape dress, cape one-piece, or cape coat. Cape design features in contemporary fashion and could be characterized as feministic elegancy, harmony of practical value and fashion, authoritativeness, and decorativeness from the design trend analysis.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.95-106
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• 2012

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (July 28, 1929 - May 19, 1994) was served as First Lady of the United States in the early 1960s. Her fashion styles are analyzed into the elements of designs, and the features of Jackie look are assorted. A variety of sources about women's suits for the 21st century are suggested in the research. Jackie's taste in fashion, her fashion image are searched. In addition, after Jackie, other nine fashionable First Ladies' evening dresses are compared to Jackie's dresses so as to see if there are similarities between their styles. Based on this data, the typical First Lady's look is classifiable. The purpose of this study is to furnish the industry with basic information which helps create high value fashion design. Most of Jackie's evening dresses had the straight - sheath silhouettes, and the round or bateau necklines without collars. Pale tones like white predominated in her dresses, and patternless colorful silk, silky and bright texture of cloth was used for the dresses. Elegance and classic represented her image. Design features of Jackie look are the straight silhouette, the simple line excluded adornments, and the fine quality of cloth. There has been little change in other nine First Ladies' evening dresses since Jackie. They weren't influenced by the vogue at that time, but they kept the style the way Jackie did. Jackie style is the beginning of the typical first lady look, that is.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.849-865
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• 2009

This research is a study of fashion design that applied formative features of formal beauty of architecture into clothing design; we focused on Gaudi's architectural style as well as Art Nouveau style that became popular from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. We noted that in general the simple and flat features of cloth impose a limitation on the expression of formal features in clothing design, but a unique diversity of designs can be achieved, evoking a sense of freshness by an ideal combination of flat patterns and draping. The aim of this research is to present a possibility of extending the sphere of design expression by creating three-dimensional clothes with pattern-cutting skills and applications of three-dimensional patterns as well as flat patterns found in Gaudi's works of architecture that are distinguished in curvaceousness and formal beauty. As for the research method, we reviewed previous studies by making a close review of books, papers, the pictures and web sites related to this topic. We made our clothes on the basis of this theoretical consideration. We found the following points. First, by presenting a work of fashion inspired by architectural designs, we realized that formal beauty in architect can become a motive for clothing design in a broad scale by noting the formal images, decoration details, and formative features of architectural works. Second, the characteristic lines of Gaudi's architecture are suitable to be adapted for expressing the detailed lines of decoration in clothes. Third, we can express formative beauty in clothes by highlighting the variation of shapes and lines through various attempts of change in background pattern, even though there is a limitation in the availability of cloth material because we must choose pieces of cloth with right texture and thickness that can be cut and sewn appropriately to express formative beauty. Fourth, we confirmed that it was possible to create unique formative designs by a creative application of both flat and three-dimensional cutting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• Journal of Broadcast Engineering
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.396-404
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• 2014

The field of searching clothing, which is very difficult due to the nature of the informal sector, has been in an effort to reduce the recognition error and computational complexity. However, there is no concrete examples of the whole progress of learning and recognizing for cloth, and the related technologies are still showing many limitations. In this paper, the whole process including identifying both the person and cloth in an image and analyzing both its color and texture pattern is specifically shown for classification. Especially, deformable search descriptor, LBPROT_35 is proposed for identifying the pattern of clothing. The proposed method is scale and rotation invariant, so we can obtain even higher detection rate even though the scale and angle of the image changes. In addition, the color classifier with the color space quantization is proposed not to loose color similarity. In simulation, we build database by training a total of 810 images from the clothing images on the internet, and test some of them. As a result, the proposed method shows a good performance as it has 94.4% matching rate while the former Dense-SIFT method has 63.9%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.5-16
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• 2000

This study attempts to examine compound weave among silk fabrics of Cho-Sun Dynasty. These silk fabrics have colorful patterns. They can be classified into two types by their texture structure one is called polychrome woven silk of which structure is plain or twill fabric : another is called satan damask of which structure is stain fabric. Their texture structure consist of warp and weft. In addition. there are other types of warp and weft for pattern structure ; various twill structures were used for patterns. A variety of colorful threads, including gold and silver ones. are used fur patterns in them. The brocaded-type fabric was primarily developed during Won Era of China. It was most developed in Ko-Rye Kingdom. During that era flat strip was used the most but its length was usually not long enough to finish one pattern. However, wrapped thread was increasingly used during the middle and later period of Cho-Sun Dynasty due to the development of weaving technology for gold thread. The brocaded-type fabric was produced in Korea and it was also Imported from China according to some record. There are some domestic empirical documents that show the names of imported Satin Samite, Brocaded satin and these are good evidence to prove the nationwide use of the cloth during Cho-Sun Dynasty. The density ratio of warp and weft is almost same except Samite in the third and Satin with flower motif in the second period is most density among them. C·F of Brocaded satin with Mang motif in the third period values the highest price. Brocaded satin, used with both gold and silver threads, is thickest.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.433-439
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• 2004

Hanji costumes has four aspects that allow the creator or artist to create many variations. The pictorial effects of Hanji costumes are produced through variations in the dyes and brushes used for its application. The amount of water and texture of the Hanji mixture also influences the Hanji clothing. This effect was expressed using a dry brush technique, a dripping technique, India inks, and fragments from other Hanji works. A second aspect of Hanji clothing is the coloring effect in the Hanji costumes. The coloring is due to the fibers in the preparation mixture and the uniqueness of the dyes. The Hanji clothing was dyed various colors and patterns by dip dyeing, block dyeing, silk screens, digital printing. The third aspect of Hanji imagination in clothing is the decorative details. The details in Hanji clothing can be seen using frills, pleats, tucks and ribbons. The last variation of Hanji clothing can be expressed through crafting techniques. These techniques are the quality of paper string, cuts in the paper and paste ingredients. With Hanji cloth, it is possible to plait, roll, and crample into other flexible & useful materials.