• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.121-135
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• 1998

The purpose of this thesis is to study the social and cultural background and characteristic of neo-classicism which appered in the modern fashion of the pluralistic society of the latter half of 20th century to understand that the product of societh such as fashion mode reflects the situation of society and culture. For this purpose, documentary studies about the concept and background of neo-classicism, were preceded, and analyzed the occurrence background and characteristic of neo-classicism of the modern fashion after the 1980's, which showed up in post-modernism fashion. The characteristics of neo-classicism expressed in modern fashion is as follows; First, they are expressed in modern fashion in forms of simplicity by means of minimizing process of sewing or ornamenting and deletion of dart. Second, retro-style in terms of concerning of the past, is featured in various styles of Greco-roman drapery and expresed in forms of mixing clothing elements of modern and classic in modern times. Third, the trend of ecology in terms of interest of the nature and the thought that the spiritual world is more important than the material world. It is expressed by using natural elements adn natural materials, which wanted to get the nature and human into one and search for the losed nature of modern men. Fourth, the pursuit of the beauty of the human body, is expressed in forms of body-prioity style through using see-through or elastic materials, which is knit, lycra, spandex, etc. In conclusion, we can recognize that the social product reflects social and cultural situation. And the characteristic of neo-classicism has the meaning of harmonizing the human and nature and the returing the humanity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.11-24
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to obtain and offer useful information on innerwear industry through an analysis of consumer purchasing behavior and preference of their between the 20's and 60's. From 310 questionnaires that were distributed, 310 with usable data were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics(frequency and chi-square test), by using SPSSWIN 10.0. The results were as follows: The results show that since the surveyed women's purchasing patterns were varied according to their ages it is necessary to develop new items and designs tailored for particular needs and wants of each age group. For those in their 20's, it is suggested that the innerwear design may consider reflecting the trend of the young women nowadays as characterized by a major fashion-led group who regard fashion as a way of expressing themselves and are not hesitant to wear clothing designed to be exposed their body. The innerwear products for women in their 30's and 40's should emphasize on the aspects of customizing and satisfying these women's different lifestyles. The study also reveal that for age groups of the 50's and 60's women these products should be developed in a way to intensify functions of thermal property and absorbency coupled with a classic design rather than daring styles. In conjunction with material developments it is necessary to establish a sizing system for the knitted innerwear products which reflect the specific characteristics of women's body type in their middle-and later years.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.4
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• pp.63-80
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• 2004

Elegance in dress has been mentioned as an important term for explaining a beauty of dress and a fashion image through the times in the history of dress. Nevertheless, it has been spoken indeterminately without analyzing the accurate meaning. In addition, almost all the scattered discourses of it were very limited to womenswear. The purpose of this study is to provide a framework for a better understanding of the concept of elegance and its aesthetic characteristics expressed visually on dress from the holistic viewpoint, focusing on male elegance in dress. To obtain the purpose, the documentary study and the practical analysis were carried out. Elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress but also a sort of aura of dressed body with skillful ease. Its aesthetic values consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony. Though male elegant styles had already existed throughout the history of dress, it was Mannerism in the 16th century which expressed ‘studied elegance’ for the first time. On the grounds of both the classification of periodic styles and the periodic values, they can be defined and categorized into Mannerism Elegance, Salon Elegance, Modern Elegance Since Dandyism, Aestheticism Elegance. In the late 20th century they can be recognised as Classic Dandyism Elegance, Soft Casual Elegance, Elaborate Heroic Elegance. Although male elegance in dress has been visualized in different ways depending on periodic values, it has essentially been a refined beauty of high class which was valued until recent years. Its common plastic features appear as soft shapes, subtle colors and delicate fabrics modulated with exquisiteness and well-adorned appearance, graceful behavior make elegant styles completed. All of elegant styles have m common with refinement, harmony as main aesthetic values.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.80-96
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to consider the expression of costume through the review of cinema costumes and to provide the model of cooperation between fashion and movie industry by analysis of collaboration with fashion brands in the movie . The subjects are the 1974 film directed by Jack Clayton and the 2013 version by Baz Luhrmann. Cinema Fashion was studied by analyzing the costumes of the two main characters, Gatsby and Daisy, in each scene. Gatsby's costume appeared as a model of traditional American classic suit, sensitive G-G look that symbolizes social success and traditional casual style that reflects upper-class life style. Daisy's costume expressed pastel toned luxury flapper look, oriental art deco style, and prestigious jewelry representing high class. The collaborations with fashion brands were carried out with Ralph Lauren and Cartier in 1974 film, and Brooks Brothers, Prada, and Tiffany in 2013. The value of prestige brands that matched the images of the movie was utilized, but marketing strategies for the promotion of fashion goods were not enough in 1974 version. On the other hand, in 2013 film, the effects of collaboration of the movie and fashion brands were forecasted sufficiently and marketing campaigns for promotion were performed in a various ways. The characteristics of collaborations were as follows: (1) the usage of prestige brands value, (2) collections planning and promotion using the stories of a movie, (3) the usage of multidirectional digital media, and (4) multi-dimensional promotion using entertainment factors. In collaborations with the movie, fashion brands could make cooperative relationship to produce the positive effects for promotion and prestige image strategies and draw attention of the people to the movie and fashion.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.997-1005
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to measure the sensibility and preference of American consumers for domestically-manufactured cotton fabrics through 7-points scale questionnaires and the 4-dimensions and 8-axes system. The key words included such images as masculine-feminine, new-old, casual-classic, and ambiguous-orderly. The images of cotton fabrics were classified through a cluster analysis. This research also included an investigation of relationship between sensibilities for cotton fabrics and their physical characteristics. The sensibilities of cotton fabrics were classified into 4 groups: 'feminine sensibility,' 'masculine sensibility,' 'new sensibility,' and 'casual sensibility.' This result represents that American consumers' sensibility is simpler than Koreans'. The order of preference was 'feminine sensibility', 'masculine sensibility', 'new sensibility', and 'casual sensibility.' The sensibilities of cotton fabrics were explained significantly by stiffness, weight, weft density, value, and chroma. Specifically, those were more influenced by color characteristics such as value, chroma, and hue than by physical characteristics. We should be able to tell a difference in the reaction of a trading country's consumers and domestic consumers to domestically-manufactured cotton fabrics through comparing this research with the previous work(Shin & Lee, 2002). Additionally, we will be able to establish a basic strategy for successfully advancing Korean fabrics into the American domestic textile industry. In this way we can expect to increase the competitive power of our domestic clothes brands.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.193-212
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characters and images of Picasso's muses, to extract the color chip from the works of Picasso, and to apply these results to fashion design. The study includes a literature review, an analysis of visual materials. The results are as follows. Fernande, who was cheerful and voluptuous, was depicted with pink-brown, a few browns, grey, black, white, and green and represents an ethnic and elegant image. Eva, a star-crossed lover, was depicted with a few browns, black, and pale-yellow and represents a gorgeous and natural image. Olga, who was jealous and sickly wife, was depicted with a few blues, browns and neutral-color and represents a classic and dandy image. Th${\acute{e}}$r${\grave{e}}$se, who was innocent and sweet, was depicted with the bright and pastel colors of red, green, violet, and yellow and of white, blue, brown, and black and represents a romantic, pretty, and casual image. Dora, who was intellectually and emotionally- challenging, was depicted with the strong colors of red, yellow, green, and blue, which are in contrast to black and also to white, grey and brown and represents a wild and dynamic image. Gilot, who was strong-willed and prideful, was depicted with the symbolic color of green, a color contrasting with black and white, grey, and pale brown and represents a clear, cool casual and modern image. Jacqueline, the self-giving and reclusive wife, was depicted with deep red, blue, green, black, white, dark brown, grey represents a formal, dandy, and chic image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.84-93
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• 1998

The main focus of this paper is to provide clear understanding about the concept of make-up as total fashion by defining the essential meaning of it. First, we would like to go over the concept of make-up and total fashion, then analyze the make-up image, the changes of colors and images of make-up overtime and fashion that have influenced over those changes. In this paper, we analyze the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy. Through this paper we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people. The trend of Spring/Summer between 1990 and 92is the image of natural beauty and comfortable and modernistic image that can be experienced through nature. In 1992, there was a revival look of 1960s and 1970s. Make-up also followed this trend. The overall color tone was to give natural and stable images with pastel tone to soften the images. This tone brought back the ecology of 1960s. The theme of restoration in humanity and nostalgia was reflected in clothing, and these trend changed the ecology of make-up to peace, love and romantic ecology which was expressed in coral, blue, and green tone to create intelligent image of woman. Year 1996 could be called as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. The beginning of 1990s Fall/Winter season was based on ecology concept that emphasized the natural image. Until 1995 it appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend had no big differences. But from 1995 seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. In 1995, 1996, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors. These color were the symbol of property and sentiment and gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image and at that time ethnic image, romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet.