• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.93-106
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• 2016

The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2021

In December 2019, when the novel coronavirus (nCoV) was identified in Wuhan, Hubei, China, the number of people belonging to post-90s generation among about 42,000 medical staffs personnel supporting Hubei was 12,000 or more, accounting for about 33.3% of the total number of personnel. The term "post-90s generation" generally indicates young people born from 1990 to 1999. The study scope is the 1990-2020 period between the birth of post-90s generation and present. Literature and empirical studies are performed. Generational characteristics and fashion trends shown only by post-90s generation through precedent studies and reports are as follows: First, generational characteristics of post-90s generation can be categorized into the following three characteristics: "sang wenhua", "collective loneliness", and "diversified identity". Second, fashion trends of the post-90s generation can be categorized into the following three characteristics: "new Chinese style fashion", "masstige fashion", and "de-labeling fashion". The above results show that the post-90s generation uses "culture" and "me" as keywords. Further, the above trend is consequently divided into the following two characteristics: "diversification" and "individualization". This is because the post-90s generation is directly affected by the reform and opening and the 9-year compulsory education policy of China compared to the previous generations; hence, these people are greatly influenced by Western culture and fashion as well as their own culture and fashion. It refers having a tendency to express one's individuality with a variety of tastes and styles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.146-169
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• 2010

For the purpose to develop the pattern of a tailored jacket for the Chinese adult women, a drawing method for the pattern of a tailored jacket was selected with the style of 'on&on', a young and casual brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co., Ltd. that has been successful in the China market, and then the measures to be applied were set up by properly combining the body measures such as the mean, mode and median of the entire group from data measured from women of 18 to 24 years old in Shanghai, China in 2008 and the mean body measures of the body type A of 2008 classified by GB/T 1335.2-1997. The pattern of a tailored jacket developed was verified for feasibility based on a wearing test and then revised for the parts with low jacket ability in general including the bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, shoulder, waist back length and back area. The final measures applied for the development of a tailored jacket were 160-165cm for the height, the bust circumference of 87.7cm, waist circumference of 69.6cm and hip circumference of 92.8cm for a jacket.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.87-99
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• 2008

This study aims to classify lower trunk body types of Chinese men in their middle age (30s and 40s) and suggest the standard for them to design slacks pattern. Mollison's relation deviations were used to analyze the direct measurement items in this research compared to those of Size Korea 2004. Though Korean middle-aged men were higher in most items than Chinese counterparts, all items except mid-thigh circumference and side hip length were merely within the range of ${\pm}1\sigma$. According to the results of size classification by absolute values, factor analysis extracted to 2 factors(horizontal size of lower body and vertical size of lower body), and cluster analysis brought about 3 types(type1: tall and thin trunk (36.9%), type 2 : normal height and thick trunk(45.5%), and type 3 : short and normal trunk(17.6%) with some significant differences among them. Also, the results of shape classification by index values, they were extracted 4 factors (waist-hip flatness, waist-hip cross section, vertical waist-groin and hip-surface length) by factor analysis and revealed 3 types(type 1: different waist-hip width, thick, long waist, long upper hip, and short hip-surface length(27.8%), type 2 : different waist-hip width, flat, short upper hip, high hip and groin, and average hip-surface length(29.4%), and type 3: small waist-hip width, thick, average upper hip, and short hip-surface length (42.8%)) with significant differences among them by cluster analysis. The results of standard body types by shape-size combination, 19subjects(10.16%) under these values are regarded as standard body types. Significance was not seen in all items in the t-test results between the total group and the standard group. The latter had lower variation coefficients and smaller individual differences than the former. However, in-depth research is required for generalization since this research is limited to a small number of subjects in Ningbo of Zhejiang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

This paper investigated the costumes of young girl dancers in Yon wha dae moo(연화대무: Lotus Stage dance) which were documented on the Ak-hak-guae-bum(악학궤범: Protocol of music) and the Jin-yeon-eui-guae(진연의궤: Archives of Royal Feast). The fashion of the costumes can be changed into three phases, based mainly on the changes of Hap-rip(합립: silk hat), Dan-eui(단의: long jacket) and Sang(상: apron type skirt). In the first phase the costume consisted of Hap-rip, round neck-line Dan-eui and tiered skirt decorated with pleat and Yu-so(유소: decorated cords). In the second phase. it consisted of Hap-rip, v-shape neck-line Dan-eui and skirt without pleat. In the third phase, it consisted of Yeon-wha-gwan(연화관: Lotus shape cap), round neck-line Dan-eui of later era and skirt with pleat and Yu-so. Yon-wha-dae dance appears to be adopted from Ja-ji-mu( 자지무: chinese dance) that originated in West and Central Asia. In both dances. young girl dancers danced mainly jump and spin. The costume of round neck-line Dan-eui seems to have been affected by the fashion in Dang Dynasty when young girls loved to wear Dan-ryung(단령: male coat with round neckline). And it satisfied the need of mobility for the dance which was Performed mainly with jump.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.50-65
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• 2009

The main purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of shapes of John Galliano's Dior Collection as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison during $1996{\sim}2007$ after he showed himself in Paris in 1990. This study was based on the analyses of John Galliano's design trends of his collections, the pictures of his works in Christian Dior's collection, real works, documents and fashion magazines, newspapers, mass media, internet sites and other visual materials. The study identified characteristics of shapes in Dior Collection until 07/08 F/W as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison, and the design trends before his post-Paris period. Followings are the conclusions of the study. First, Galliano was open to any types of cultures as a liberalist, and also respectful to the tradition or principles. He led the fashion business with new trends by exploring both sides. Second, he succeeded in commercializing his avant-garde feature. Especially, His creativity changed the image of Christian Dior to younger and more casual one. Third, born in England and worked in French, he always took both English (Victorian Style) and French(Napoleon era, Femme Fatal style) sides, and showed excellent formulation that the times needed by combining topical Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.35-49
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• 2007

This study aims at strengthening the national competitiveness of Korea's clothing industry as it provides substantial information on type characteristics and body types for Chinese women and improves the fitness of clothing, considering human proportion in the production of clothing products for export to China. It divides the group by residental district and specific markets. It analyzes the part proportion of body types by each group. This selected specimen as 1,381 of Chinese women from 19 to 50 selected in random sampling in Shanghai and Beijing from 23th, June to 7th August in 2004. 1. Beijing women have long head length of 7.04 in proportion while Shanghai women have short head length of 7.14 in proportion. 2. For 19-24 years old women, head-to-height ratio (HHR) is 7.14, while 24-34 years old women and 35-50 years old women are 7.04 and 7.09 respectively.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.43-53
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• 1999

The research analyzs characteristics of body types for the Chineses women based on the different life style and to compare the differences of body type with Korean women. The measurement had took in Beijing and Seoul in 1999. As a result of comparing Chinese and Korean women'body measurements, it was found that Chinese women are shorter and obser than Korean women. Besides, chinese arms and upper body are shorter, and their body is thicker compared with their relatively flat chest. After all, Cheinese women'chests are more voluminous, while their shoulders are drooped more, although their shoulder size is almost as same as Korean women'. By used factor analysis, 8 factors were extracted from body measurements : body obesity, vertical body size, ankle and knee sizes, head size, front upper body length, shoulder size, form and size of neck and upper chest, drooping of shoulders, and size of hip. It was found that Chinese college women are obser with larger vertical body length and front upper body length. And their shoulders are more drooped with larger hip. But two nations'female students did not show any differences in the sizes of ankles, knees, head and shoulders.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.872-887
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• 2018

This study aims to identify the differences between Korean and Chinese and males and females in terms of female image preferences. The survey was conducted for 1 month targeting male and female Korean and Chinese subjects. Among the 350 completed questionnaires, 309 were used for analysis. For the analysis, 11 female images were chosen based on theoretical study, then a t-test and a paired t-test were carried out using SPSS 19.0. The results of this study are as follows: First, differences in female image preferences were observed to depend on nationality and gender. Koreans prefer urban images while Chinese prefer cute, intelligent, and sexy images. Second, males prefer innocent or sexy images, while females prefer sophisticated images. Third, Korean males prefer innocent, active, sophisticated, gentle, cute, sexy, urban, natural, intelligent, spectacular, and neutral images in order. Chinese males prefer gentle, innocent, sexy, active, sophisticated, intelligent, cute, natural, urban, spectacular, and neutral images in order. Fourth, Korean females prefer sophisticated, gentle, urban, natural, intelligent, innocent, active, sexy, cute, spectacular, and neutral images in order. Chines females prefer sophisticated, intelligent, cute, gentle, innocent, active, natural, sexy, urban, spectacular, and neutral images in order. Using these results, it will be possible to design marketing strategies for global consumers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

This study is to provide basic information on clothing fitness necessary to develop apparel products for Korean companies that want to enter or have already made inroads into the Chinese market. In an effort to serve this purpose, a standard upper torso body model for Chinese women was established by applying the Rohrer Index and Size Designation of Clothes - Women of GB/T 1335.2-1997 to Chinese women in their 20s to determine body types and its characteristics. First, according to the result of applying the Rohrer Index to categorize body types, Type 1 showed the longest vertical body length and a short horizontal length with the lowest degree of flatness. Type 2 was a standard body type with a height of 158.73cm, weight of 53.02kg and the Rohrer Index of 1.32. Type 3 had a thick and flat body shape that had the highest degree of flatness and the shortest vertical length in its upper torso among all three types of body. Second, F-test was conducted on 4 distinctive body types obtained from comparing obesity scores to verify differences in body shapes for different degree of obesity. The test result indicated significant differences in 3 of the 4 body types and showed different structural components for different degree of obesity. Third, the result of comparing correlational distributions of body types and height range, and body types and degree of obesity for all and specified age groups revealed that about 33.30% of the body types appeared in Type2-A followed by 20.18% in Type1-A, 18.40% in Type2-Y and 7.91% in Type1-Y respectively. Body types and degree of obesity for two different age groups were most frequent in Type2-A. For the group of young women in their early 20s appeared the most in Type2-A, Type1-A, Type2-Y and Type 1-Y respectively and young women in late 20s were frequent in the order of Type2-A, Type2-Y, Type1-A and Type1-Y.