• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.545-558
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• 2021

This research analyzed the Chinese style design embodied in the collections of the new generation of fashion designers shown during the Shanghai Fashion Week to improve the understanding of Chinese style and the modernization of Chinese design. The research questions were 1) studying the development of the Chinese fashion industry chronologically and investing young designers' current situation, 2) investigating young designers' awareness of Chinese style and analyzing Chinese style design in collections. A literature and case study were conducted as the research method. The literature study focused on the books about the Chinese fashion industry and history, newspaper, articles, and so on. The case study was conducted among 63 Chinese style collections in 2016-2020 SFW by investigating fashion magazine reviews, articles, and so on. The findings are as follows: 1) Young Chinese fashion designers' awareness of Chinese style has three characteristics; the nonmaterial tendency from decreasing stereotyped images, combination of traditional culture and local youth culture, and commercialization with trends. 2) Chinese elements, including natural, character, and cultural elements were predominantly used in the concept, pattern, and shape. Nonmaterial characteristics were identified in concept, cultural combination characteristics in concept, shape, color, material, and pattern, and trend commercialization in shape, color, and pattern. In conclusion, Chinese young fashion designers had strong national consciousness and new awareness of Chinese style fashion in decreasing the stereotyped images of China. Thus, they used more varied expressions. Meanwhile, they faced difficulties in expressing nonmaterial Chinese elements by balancing them with Chinese style and globalization.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.967-983
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to review Hanliu phenomenon, a kind of social and cultural phenomenon, in China and to analyze its effects on the fashion style of new young generation of China. In this study, Hanliu phenomenon means the enthusiasm of Asian people for Korean mass culture including Korean dramas, pop songs, and fashions from late 1990s. This research adopts two kinds of methods for analyzing the phenomenon: qualitative and quantitative research methods. As a qualitative research method, we analyzed it with several sources of documentaries and audio-visual materials: articles from newspapers and magazines, special TV reports, and documentary movie files from Internet. As a quantitative research method, we surveyed approximately 100 female students of Beijing university and asked how they feel Korean culture and fashions. The Hanliu phenomenon led to the popularity of Korean products as well as general culture of Korea. Also, it influenced Chinese young generation so much that Korean fashion has become prevailing. Such influence on the street fashion of Chinese youths can be summarized in three factors as follows: First, Korean entertainers' fashion is widely imitated. For example, H.O.T-like hairstyles, hip-hop styles, large heel shoes with boots-cut pants, and long-curled permanent hairstyles have been on among Chinese youths. Second, the preference for Korean fashion products has highly increased. The number of stores dealing with Korean fashion products has increased. Even the 'Kim Hee Seen,' a fashion brand named after a famous Korean actress, was introduced. Finally, Korean culture and products have widely been imitated in China as much as the increasing popularity of Korean fashion products. This study reveals that Hanliu phenomenon is widespread in China, and Chinese youths are largely affected by the fashion styles of Korean entertainers. Also, Korean fashion products are largely imitated and benchmarked in China. Hanliu phenomenon is a big chance to approach the fashion market of China, the largest buying power in the world. To make inroads into the Chinese fashion market, we suggest that we need to have our own brand and to make the most of culture, stars, and Internet in marketing. Also, we need a well-planned strategy for a success in the Chinese fashion market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.154-164
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• 2004

The purpose of this theses is to review Hanliu phenomenon, a kind of social and cultural phenomenon, in China around A. D. 2000 in the view of the culture-diffusion theory, and analyze its effect to the fashion style of the new young generation of China. In this theses, Hanliu phenomenon means the enthusiasm of Asian people for Korean mass cultures such as Korean dramas, pop songs and fashions from late 1990's. This research adopts two kinds of methods for analyzing Hanliu phenomenon: a qualitative research method and a quantitative one. As a qualitative research method, we analyzed Hanliu phenomenon with several sources of documentaries and audio-visual materials on it. As a quantitative research method, we conducted a survey of about 100 university students in Beijing for how they feel of korean culture and fashions. The Hanliu phenomenon leads to the popularity of Korean products and the general Korean cultures. Also, it affected the Chinese young generation so much that the Korean fashion becomes popular among them. Its effects to the fashion styles of Chinese youths can be summarized in three factors as follows. Firstly, the fashions of Korean entertainers such as H.O.T hair style and Hip-hop fashion style are widely imitated. Secondly, the preference of Korean fashion products has been widely increased. The number of stores dealing with Korean fashion products has been increased. Finally, Korean culture and products have actively been imitated in China according to the increased popularity of Korean fashion products.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.71-79
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• 2006

The study of young people's attitudes towards appearance management has special significance for understanding young people's living, thought and attitudes. It was handed out 600 questionnaires in the three cities and look 573 questionnaires back, out of which 552 were used as the basic material for the analysis. These 522 questionnaires included 178 in Beijing, 200 in Shanghai, 175 in Dalian. 154 questions in four aspects were raised in the questionnaires. The purpose of this study were to identify the Chinese generation' lifestyle and fashion attitudes. Questionnaires developed by researcher were distributed and collected from 552 chinese new generation of the three cities(178 in Beijing, 200 in Shanghai, 175 in Dalian). 1) Life attitudes of new generation men and women in China were classified into five factors, which were extravagant pleasure-seeking, sports-oriented, marriage-oriented, appearance-oriented and study-oriented attitudes. 2) Fashion attitudes of new generation men and women in China were classified into eight factors, which were fashion attitude of being conscious of others, others-dependent fashion attitude, rational fashion attitude, brand-pursuing fashion attitude, active appearance management fashion attitude, unique fashion attitude, fashion attitude of being conscious of sex role and individuality-oriented fashion attitude.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.145-158
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• 2017

This paper aims to analyze the characteristics of the contemporary Chinese fashion market and the competitiveness of Korean fashion brands in China. Fashion professionals experienced in both the Korean and Chinese fashion markets participated to investigate the Shanghai market and consumers. The results of in-depth interviews show that Shanghai is the most favorable city among Tier 1 cities for Korean fashion brands planning on entering into the Chinese market. Shanghai consumers are open to international brands and highly prefer newness in fashion. Contemporary menswear was selected as a potentially big market due to the increase of unique, young, upper-middle-class male consumers. The Korean fashion brands' strength is that they are capable of satisfying Shanghai consumers with excellent product planning and sensory design capabilities. Their disadvantage is that their brand recognition is weaker than that of global and international brands, and their ability to localize to the Chinese market is weak. The opportunity comes is from the Korean Wave, which is a positive for Korea's products and has good geographical access. The threat is that the Shanghai market is fiercely competitive; having access to many worldwide brands, and the competitiveness of Chinese brands is on the rise. To enter the Shanghai market, creative design ability, trendy product development, skill, and appropriate PR methods such as using Korean culture contents would be required to satisfy the young, powerful consumers in Shanghai.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.15-28
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• 2011

This study will focus on research and analysis covering the period of time since the creation of the People's Republic of China to current day China, with an emphasis on 20-something year-old women living in Shanghai. In conducting this research, historical evidence of fashion was derived from books, photographs, and Internet resources pertaining to the specific periods of interest. Furthermore, each set of data has been organized in approximately decade-long segments that best reflect the transformation of Chinese fashion from 1949 to 2000. As a result of the countrywide emphasis placed on revitalization of the newly created Chinese state during the period of 1949 to 1965, detail to fashion was largely ignored, in preference to the successful upstart of a working economic foundation. This neglect of fashion is evident by the scarcity of new and daring styles during this period. The following the period of 1966 to 1977 ushered in a cultural revolution that was aptly demonstrated in the changing fashion tastes. When compared with the previous period, the blandness of clothing, authorized by the Chinese government clearly reflected the rules and regulations strictly enforced by a government mandate of conformity and obedience. These orthodox changes were so drastic, that women wearing these clothes could hardly be differentiated from men in the same style wear. After Mao Ze Dong's death in 1976 and the end of the sternest period of the Chinese Revolution, a new era of Chinese culture and fashion was made possible by a more lax and tolerant government. During the later palt of the seventies through the eighties, this new governmental policy fostered more openness and self-expression, both of which led to a newfound interest in expressing one's desires and personality through the clothes he or she chose to wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.206-217
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• 2012

This study examined the causal relationship between the Chinese preference for Korean cultural products (Korean talent, K-pop songs, TV dramas, and movies), for Korean fashion products, and their purchase intentions. The relationship between the Korea's national brand image and Chinese fashion leadership with the three variables was investigated. Data was collected from 580 Chinese in Dalian, China. The data was analyzed using frequency, correlations, reliability, and AMOS for path analysis. The results of this study were as follows. First, the preference for Korean talent, K-pop songs, TV dramas, movies, and fashion products showed that the Chinese had a positive response and the degree of preference for each item was similar. Second, the Chinese preference for Korean talent, movies, and TV dramas significantly influenced the preference for Korean fashion products. In addition, the Chinese preference for Korean fashion products significantly influenced the purchase intentions of Korean fashion products. Third, the Chinese preference for Korean talent and fashion products had a significant relationship with their fashion leadership. In addition, the preference for Korean talent, movies, TV dramas, K-pop songs, fashion products, and purchase intentions had the same positive relationship with Korea's national brand images. This study examined from a structural aspect how the preference of Korean intangible cultural products affected the purchase intention of Korean fashion products. This study explored that the preference for Korean cultural products transcended the popularity of the Korean popular culture with a subsequent national industrial and economic ripple effect that improved the national brand image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.574-581
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• 2010

Trunks like men's underpants are similar to boxer shorts and are made in both modern and traditional styles. Like boxer shorts, trunks cover the mid-section of the body (hence the name "trunk"). As the income level of the nation increases, men as well as women become interested in fashion expressing the individual's character, by not regarding fashion as simply wearing essential items to live in. Men's interest in fashion influences men's underwear designs which has been thought previously just as to be worn for living in. Nowadays, trunks are often worn as lounge wear in the household, therefore the need for sensual and characteristic trunks designs is required in the fashion market to meet the customer's new needs. In modern fashion designs, Chinese letters have been artistically presented and used in decorative fashion design regardless of its original meaning, generally embroidered in traditional costumes. Based on the fact that Chinese letters containing lucky meanings have traditionally been used, other Chinese letters meaning positive and prospective future can be adapted and weaved into men's trunks designs. Therefore, in this study, among many good meaning Chinese letters; four Chinese letters, 高(high), 金(gold), 義(justice), 愛(love), have been selected and applied in the trunks designs. The purpose of this study is to develop men's trunk designs using these Chinese letters which can be massively produced and sold in Asian countries which commonly understand the meaning of the Chinese letters as well as in South Korea.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.441-456
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• 2016

This study considers the modern expression of oriental esthetics by analyzing the fashion design with the Chinese ink technique based on the concept of Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung, which was regarded as the best rule of art creation in oriental history. This study was performed by conducting a literature review of related books and advanced studies, and then, collection analysis was done with photos derived from fashion websites (seoulfashionweek.org, chinafashionweek.org, vogue.com, firstview. com) from 2010 S/S to 2016 S/S. A total of 317 fashion photos of designs created using the Chinese ink technique by Korean designers at Seoul Fashion Week and Chinese designers at China Fashion Week were analyzed. The contemporary fashions created with the Chinese ink technique were characterized by, first, the bold brush strokes and natural spreading effects of Chinese ink, second, the emphasis of empty space by taking essential elements, and third, the coexistence of deep Chinese ink colors with modern primary colors. The formativeness of the contemporary fashions created with Chinese ink technique based on Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung were as follows: first, temperance, pursuing spiritual and minimal expression, second, empty space, making design elements interact and pursue harmony, third, changeable rhythm, symbolizing the growth and variation revealing the power of life, and fourth, vitality, represented in the rhythmical movement of the brush. This study was based on the oriental esthetics inherent in Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung, and it attempted to analyze contemporary fashion design. The aim was to show the possibility of modern applications to traditional values, and it can be a meaningful case in design planning based on culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.507-518
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• 2007

This study aimed to investigate the competitive advantages of Chinese fashion industry and firms to Korean fashion industry by applying the generalized double-diamond theory. Data collection was done by internet and fax survey. Questionnaires were distributed to the Korean textiles and apparel firms who entered China for production anuor distribution. List of firms were provided by KOFOTI, KOTRA, and Korea Apparel Industry Association. Total 198 questionnaires were distributed, and 77 questionnaires were used for final analysis. The results were follows. Korea's competitiveness scores of double-diamond model were higher in every aspects, such as demand condition, infra/supportive industry, firms's strategy and competition except factor condition. Glottalization score in double diamond model measured by the degree of glottalization which was determined by international diamond factors which make firm's multinational/international activities possible. Chinese fashion industry's globalization score of factor condition was significantly higher than Korea, but for the rest of aspects, Korean fashion industry showed higher scores. Therefore, Korean fashion firms can overcome comparative disadvantage of factor condition by utilizing Chinese fashion industry no matter what type of entry. In addition, considering the growth rate of Chinese fashion industry and its power of influence in the world market, the entry to the global market of the Korean fashion industry can be possible.